The vests are available in a wide range of styles and versions, but in principle they are a sleeveless item of clothing, which covers the upper body. If you have the right fabric and a little patience, it is possible to make a vest at home with few or perhaps almost none seams.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: First Method: Circular Vest
Step 1. Take your measurements
You will need to measure the bust and the size needed for the armhole of the vest.
- To measure your bust, simply wrap a tape measure around the fullest part of your chest. Keep the measuring tape parallel to the ground as you wrap it around your torso.
- Measure the depth of the armhole, starting from the top of the shoulder and reaching the end of the armpit. Add 7.6cm to ensure there is enough space.
- Determine the necessary distance between the two openings, measuring the back from one arm to the other.
Step 2. Draw the model
Draw a circle on the fabric with a diameter equal to your bust measurement.
- The circle forms the entire structure of the vest.
- Use a soft knitted fabric to create a woven effect vest.
- If you want to skip the more challenging steps, making a seamless work, use fleece, which will give the garment a warmer and more comfortable touch.
Step 3. Draw the armhole
Vertically center the armhole on the circumference, spacing it from the other according to the width of the back (measured previously).
- Use a ruler or tape measure to find the exact center point of the pattern. Draw a vertical straight line from top to bottom, then a horizontal one from side to side. The point of intersection must be the center of the circle.
- One half of the width of the back should extend to the right of the center point, while the other half should extend to the left.
- Each armhole should be perpendicular to the back width line, intersecting both ends of this line. One half of the armhole line should extend over the width of the back and the other half should fall below.
Step 4. Cut the fabric
Use sharp scissors to cut the circle. Also cut along the lines drawn for both armholes.
Do not cut along the back width line or any other line except those specifically mentioned
Step 5. Refine the edges
Fold the raw edge of the circle into the bias fold, securing it with the pins. Then gradually wrap the rest of the ribbon around the circumference, pinning the ribbon down. Topstitch the edge.
- Turn the ends of the ribbon on the bias. Make a 1.25 centimeter fold from both bottom ends, tucking them under the inside folds of the ribbon. Pin, then sew normally.
- Sew the ribbon on the bias on the fabric near the open end of the ribbon, capturing it from the front and back of the circumference.
- As long as the seam is able to join and hold the bias tape to the fabric, you can sew with any stitch you find aesthetically pleasing.
Step 6. Prepare the armhole seam
For each armhole you will need to prepare two strips of bias tape. Each piece will need to be 6.55 inches longer than your armhole measurement.
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On each armholes, pin two strips from the right side so that the short ends are aligned.
- Draw a 3.2 cm line in the center of each end with the bias tape open.
- Passing through both layers, sew a 1.6 cm seam around the line to form one end of the armhole, then cut the center of the line.
- Repeat these steps with the other two pieces for the other armhole.
- Turn the piece you have sewn to the right, fold all the rough edges of 1.25 centimeters downwards and hold them in place with a hot iron.
Step 7. Join the armholes
Tuck the raw edges of the armhole into the center fold of the piece you just made. Pin and then sew.
Sew near the open edge of the ribbon using an aesthetically pleasing stitch. Make sure you catch the tape in both the top and bottom layers
Step 8. Try on the vest
Wearing it, the circle will end up behind your back. Put your arms in the armholes. Drape the excess fabric over your shoulders so that it falls naturally.
With this step you have completed the job
Method 2 of 3: Second Method: Classic Seamless Vest
Step 1. Cut the material if needed
You can buy 91cm 1.5m high jersey fabric and you won't need to cut it. If you have a larger fabric than you need, then cut it to the following measurements: 91cm long and 1.5m wide.
- The jersey fabric is tear resistant and drapes well. It is the perfect choice for making the vest. Thanks to its quality, it allows the fabric to fall softly in front of the bust, while its tear-resistant composition avoids stitching at the edges. Therefore, with this fabric it is possible to make a vest without any need for seams.
- If you are using a material other than tear resistant, you need to hem all edges. In this case, simply fold 1.25 cm at the bottom of the fabric, pin and sew along each side to secure the hems inside.
Step 2. Fold the fabric in half
Spread the fabric in front of you, keeping the long side from left to right and the shorter side so that it goes from top to bottom. Fold the fabric from left to right, aligning all edges evenly.
- Note that the side of the fabric that rests on your body should be facing you after folding it.
- It is recommended that you pin the two fabric halves to prevent them from moving as you work.
Step 3. Mark the starting point of the armholes
Use the tape measure to measure 15.24 cm along the fold from the top of the fabric to the bottom. From this point, measure 15.24 cm along the fold.
Use only a pencil to mark fabrics, chalk or any other water-soluble material
Step 4. Draw the armholes
With the fabric marking pencil, draw a line 20.32 cm down from the starting point of the armhole.
The line must be vertical and parallel to the fold of the fabric
Step 5. Cut the armholes
Use sharp scissors to carefully cut a slit through the armhole mark. Make sure you cut both layers of fabric, front and back.
- Try inserting more pins around the armhole area as you cut out the slits. The jersey material is stretchy and will likely tend to warp when you cut it. The pins around the area you plan to cut will hold the material tighter.
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If you are not using a jersey fabric and instead opt for a fabric that is not tear resistant, it is necessary to hem the armholes.
- Make 6mm diagonal slits on each armhole. One should be at the bottom pointing left, while another should be at the bottom pointing right. Similarly, another should be at the top and be directed to the left, while the last should be placed at the top and point to the right.
- Fold the resulting flaps back into the bottom of the vest. Pin together, then sew with a straight stitch.
Step 6. Put on the vest
Open the fabric and let it fall against your back. Insert your arms into the newly made armholes, and bring the rest of the fabric forward. Secure the vest at the waist with a matching thin belt.
- Alternatively, it is possible not to wear the belt and let the vest fall on the front, resulting in a different style.
- With this step the work is completed.
Method 3 of 3: Third Method: Creatively Recycled Vest
Step 1. Choose the right garment
To do this work, use a slightly larger button-down shirt. Usually, a cotton or flannel shirt is fine.
- The length of the sleeves does not matter.
- You could use a denim jacket or shirt, but since denim is a more double material, you won't need to crease later.
- Try different fabric shirts to change the look. A flannel shirt will transform into a soft vest, starting with a decent amount of fabric, while a shirt made of a light silky fabric can transform into a gilet with a delicate and airy look.
Step 2. Remove any unwanted items
If the shirt has pockets or pocket flaps, use a seam ripper to remove them. Work carefully to remove only the threads that connect the pocket to the body of the shirt. If you're not careful, you could accidentally puncture the front of the garment.
- Even if you want a pocket on the vest, it is always better to remove those found at the beginning on the shirt. Each accessory will eventually alter the structure of the garment, so remove the pockets from their position.
- Also consider removing any flaps or labels, especially if they are under the pocket and are visible after unstitching it.
Step 3. Cut the sleeves
Use scissors to carefully cut the sleeves of the shirt. Cut outside the seam, leaving the sleeve seam joining them to the main body of the shirt.
By leaving the seam intact, you can avoid fraying that would otherwise need to be refinished. Consequently, it will not be necessary to hem the removed sleeves later on
Step 4. Cut the top
Turn the shirt inside out and locate the back yoke. Cut straight along the top just below the yoke, completely removing the collar and the upper portion of the garment.
- There may be a seam or crease at the bottom of the back yoke. If not, know that the yoke is the portion of fabric mounted around the collar and shoulders.
- If you're using a plaid flannel shirt, use the lines on the shirt to make a straight cut. If you do not wear them, it is recommended that you draw a light line with a fabric pencil and a ruler before cutting.
Step 5. Measure and trace the folds
Determine the amount of material needed to tighten at the top of the vest, based on which to draw the folds.
- The top of the vest should be no longer than a palm from the shoulders.
- Remember that a fold will contain twice the fabric it will be sewn onto. For example, a 6mm fold will contain 1.25cm of fabric.
- The folds should each be about 10cm in length, regardless of how many they are and how long you make them.
- Trace the folds with a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk. Whatever material you use should be water soluble.
- Note that the pleats add movement to the vest, reduce the bulk of the fabric and give it a touch of style.
Step 6. Sew the folds to the top of the fabric
Make the crease along the dotted line so that the pieces on the wrong side match. With straight stitches sew a 6mm long seam from the fold to complete the fold.
- This step is easier to complete using a sewing machine.
- Topstitch each fold from the beginning and end to secure the seams.
- Repeat the operation for each fold traced on the vest.
Step 7. Sew the shoulders
After turning the vest inside out and matching the right sides together, sew a 1.25 cm seam along the edges of both shoulders.
- Turn the vest inside out and pin the shoulder seams together. Try it on and reposition the pins if necessary to ensure a better fit.
- Make sure you leave enough room for your neck when you measure your shoulders. Each shoulder seam should be approximately 3.8cm in length.
- All the pleats should still point towards the center of the vest when you have finished sewing the shoulders.
Step 8. Sew around the neckline
Use your sewing machine to make a 1.25 cm seam allowance along the edge of the neckline.
- The neckline will still be a little frayed, but this seam will prevent it from coming off or unraveling completely.
- If you want to minimize fraying, apply anti-fraying glue around the raw edge or fold the fabric around the neck at the bottom of the vest and sew the fold.
Step 9. Fold the collar down
Fold it towards the neckline in an aesthetically appealing position. Insert a small button on the top of the collar on each side and sew it, keeping the collar down during this step.
- Use the leftover buttons from the sleeves you removed earlier if possible.
- If no buttons are left over or if you just want a different look, choose a button that matches the fabric.
- Sew the buttons by hand.
Step 10. Put on the vest
Slip on the vest as if it were still a shirt. You can drop it open or button it up if you want to have another look.