Family camping tents come in all shapes and sizes. The one that is right for you is not necessarily suitable for someone else, hence the wide choice that is presented in stores and catalogs. Don't be fooled by the photographs. Whenever possible, see for yourself the tent that interests you!
Steps
Step 1. Choose the size of the curtain
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Determine how many people and equipment you will travel with, and what use you will make of the tent. Usually, tents are sold for two people, for four people, for six people and so on: this is the maximum number of people who, if they are tight enough, can sleep in them without additional space for personal belongings. This classification system makes sense for hikers who travel light, but is bad for others. To get a realistic indication of the capacity of the tent, you will need to divide this type of classification by two. So most four-person tents are only comfortable for two adults, or perhaps at most two adults, two small children and a pet.
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For each person consider a minimum floor plan of 2.5 square meters. For trips involving long periods of camping, consider even more space, unless it is essential to try to limit weight.
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Check actual length and width. If you are 1.80 meters tall, you will need a space of at least 2 meters to be able to stretch out without having to cram against the walls of the tent. Just for sleeping you will need at least 80 cm in width. These measurements correspond to only 1.6 square meters. A "two-person" tent should be advertised as a tent whose measurements are 2 by 1 and 20 meters. A 2.5 by 2, 5 meter tent is ideal for two adults. There will be enough space for cots or a double airbed, as well as space to stand upright while changing clothes. Children can also be comfortable in smaller tents. When they are old enough, they will still want to sleep in separate tents, and parents will also appreciate the privacy that comes with this type of accommodation. For children, a 1, 5 by 2 meter tent is sufficient. Teenagers, on the other hand, should be considered as adults.
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Add space for clothing, and space to sit upright without having to crawl over tent mates, making the situation more livable. Keep in mind that a 2, 5 by 2, 5 meter tent is the minimum for two adults to camp. In this case, 3 square meters per person would be available.
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Be wary of tents larger than 2.5 by 2.5 meters. Larger family tents are heavy and bulky, so they should not be considered for hiking, whether on foot, by bike or by motorbike. For privacy, familiar tents can sometimes have fabric partitions inside. They can also have large spaces for camping furniture, such as cots and chairs. Their main strengths are the large spaces, and generously sized windows and doors, thanks to which the ventilation is excellent. Some even have small openings for pets and a veranda (atrium). However, it is quite difficult to find a space large enough to be able to put up this type of curtains. Large tents can also be heavy and difficult to transport, so they should only be considered when traveling by car to go camping. Thirdly, large tents are difficult to heat and keep warm on cold days due to their large internal volume. Fourth consideration, larger tents may be less stable in strong winds, unless proper tie rods are used. Fifth, large tents are more difficult and take a lot longer to set up. Sometimes a couple of people are needed to set up a large tent. So for large groups it may be preferable to consider bringing several smaller tents with you.
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Consider the maximum internal height. For campsites and trips where transporting the tent is not a problem, it would be preferable to have one that is tall enough to stand upright. In this case, the height of the tallest person should be considered. For adults it would be useful to have an internal height of 1 meter 80 or 2 meters 20, while for children a tent of 1 meter 20 can be fine. It must be remembered that the walls of the tent have a slope at a rather acute, so the point at which one can actually stand is rather narrow. Larger spaces can obviously be had with a higher tent. Hiking tents, on the other hand, have a height of about 1 meter or so, to allow occupants to sit instead of standing. Some smaller one-seat tents are barely larger than a sleeping bag, and you can't even sit in them. Choose the tent with the features that best suit your needs and the use you want to make of it. If you plan to go hiking or biking, choose the smallest and lightest one you can stay on. In case you don't feel comfortable in tight spaces, choose from the larger ones.
Step 2. Choose the shape of the curtain
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Tents basically have four main shapes: A-shaped (Canadian or jamboree), umbrella, geodesic dome or "vaulted" (igloo), and walled (field). The Canadian is the tent that has the classic shape that children's curtains have, but it can also be quite large (jamboree). Umbrella tents are often used by families, as they have many standing rooms, large windows and a double roof (double roof). Igloo tents can come in many different shapes, but they all look like a combination of triangles joined together. The camp tent is like a Canadian, but usually much larger and with virtually vertical outer walls.
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Square-shaped tents are easier to organize when arranging sleeping places and equipment. However, due to other factors, it is not always possible to have a square floor plan. If you need to buy a circular or semi-circular tent, such as an igloo, you should take into consideration the space that will remain unused for this reason. Igloos often have a hexagonal plan and triangular corners are usually used for the arrangement of equipment.
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Doors and windows are important considerations to make. In very hot or humid climatic conditions, you should choose a tent with large protected windows. Make sure that the curtain has arrangements for closing the windows, such as flaps with velcro, or panels with hinges, or even with cords. Usually the cheaper tents do not include this type of device. A tent for two or more people should have two doors on opposite sides, so that you can get out without having to step on the other.
Step 3. Choose the tent poles
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The poles of many tents are made of aluminum or fiberglass, and most of them are tied with an elastic cord. This prevents the posts from being lost, and makes assembly easier and faster. Poles can bend or break, so manufacturers provide replacement poles to take with you.
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Some more complex curtain poles have pins for joining or bent sections. It is essential to understand how to assemble them to mount the curtain without exerting excessive force, thus avoiding damaging these pins.
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Before using the tent "in the field" check that everything is in order by setting it up at home. It is much better to mount it first to get it in good condition, rather than trying to get it up for the first time on a dark, cold and humid night.
- Usually the maximum length of the poles also determines the maximum length of the tent when it is folded and closed inside its bag. This aspect must be considered if you intend to transport the tent on a bike, a motorbike or a backpack. Eventually, the poles could be cut into shorter sections in order to better fold the tent reducing the bulk. A store specializing in camping items can provide the necessary information to do this, should sell the necessary, or even could do it directly.
- Some tents have inflatable tubes that function as poles. This feature makes the assembly and disassembly of the tent very quick and easy.
- The poles are anchored to the tent in one of three ways: with sewn channels, with pegs or hooks, or from inside the tent itself. Some good quality climbing tents have poles that are mounted from inside the tent itself, making bad weather a minor variable. The sewn channels, inside which the poles are inserted, are used on most 4-season tents with long zips that minimize air movement between the sheets, and provide an anti-infiltration profile. Many modern tents use plastic clothespins to anchor the tent to the poles. Thanks to these clips, assembling and disassembling the tent is a simple and quick operation.
Step 4. Choose a good fabric
Almost all curtains nowadays are made of nylon. Breathable nylon is usually used for the tent walls, while waxed nylon is usually used for the roof and the floor to ensure waterproofing. A thick mosquito net is used to protect the windows. For heavier curtains, a heavier, tear-resistant fabric is used. It should be noted that as the weight of the fabrics increases, the weight of the curtain increases. It may become unacceptable if you have to carry the tent on your bike or on your back. If possible, remember to fold the tent when it is dry. If you have to fold it when it's still a little damp, open it as soon as you get home and let it dry, and treat it with a spray disinfectant to prevent mold from forming.
Step 5. Check the hinges
They should open and close easily, and should not jam or jam with the curtain fabric. They must not get caught on nylon fins or worn fabric. Plastic or brass hinges do not get damaged, while steel or aluminum ones are more resistant but deteriorate with humidity. To keep the hinges in good condition, they can be lightly lubricated with a silicone spray. When assembling a tent you must always remember to stake it with the hinges closed, to avoid that later being too tight they are difficult to close.
Step 6. Seams are often reinforced with nylon tape; however for some models it is not necessary
The tape is sewn into each seam, making it more durable and waterproof. In nylon tents, as in related roofing and flooring, the seams are waterproofed with a sealant or with a thermal process. If the tent comes with bottles of waterproofing, it should be set up in the yard before using it and sprinkled with the sealant. Before folding it must be left to dry. Before each use it should be checked that the seams are waterproof.
Step 7. Try to take the weather conditions into account
Wind, rain, sun, heat and cold require different characteristics of the tent.
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In windy areas, sturdy poles, pegs and tie rods are required. In the wind the best tents are the igloo ones, in fact their shape reduces the resistance to the wind and the arrangement of the poles gives a high strength. If the tent has a veranda, care must be taken not to set it up against the wind.
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Three considerations are necessary for rain. First of all, the water must be kept outside. Secondly, you will need to have enough space to be comfortable since you will need to "weather" the storm by spending a lot of time inside the tent. Thirdly, due to the increased humidity it will be necessary to have sufficient ventilation to be able to keep things dry inside the tent.
- Most tents have a rainproof cover made from a waxed nylon or other similar material. Some extreme hiking tents are made with waterproof and breathable fabrics that do not require the cover sheet. The cover should cover the breathable parts of the tent. Instead some roofs cover only a few centimeters of the upper part, others instead cover the whole tent down to the ground. These characteristics are imposed in the choice of the awning based on the intended use. The tarpaulin should keep out any type of rain, even windy rain. It should also adequately cover the door, preventing rain from penetrating when entering or exiting.
- The floor should also be made with waterproof waxed nylon. This material should cover the entire floor, and it should turn up on the sides along the walls for about 15cm. There should be as few seams as possible: this is what is called a "tub" floor. It must also keep away any water that could flow near or under the tent.
- You should also get an underlay (waterproof sheet). Not only does it protect the tent floor from stones and debris, it also prevents condensation inside if the tent has been set up in a cold and damp place. Many tents come with their own dedicated underlay that is clipped or buttoned to the floor under the tent.
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The sun and the heat determine the need for shade and ventilation. The rain cover could provide the necessary shade. Large windows opposite each other or with respect to the door allow the passage of air, preventing the formation of condensation.
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A cold environment involves specific needs. Unless you are dealing with snow (in which case you will need a climbing tent), you can use a "three season" tent which has good characteristics. The most important are the rain cover that lines both the roof and the side walls, and an inner layer made of a knitted fabric that allows steam to pass through. In fact, in cold environments, the lukewarm water vapors that form inside the tent, due to the fresh and humid air and the hot humid breath, create condensation when they come into contact with the colder external surface of the tent. The only way to prevent this formation is to allow excess steam to escape through the knit fabric.
When choosing the size of the tent you should also take into account if you intend to head to a cold place. Body heat is best kept in a confined space rather than outdoors. However, some campers may also use heaters in the larger tents. Tent heaters are not always safe enough in small tents due to the proximity of the walls. If a catalytic stove is used, remember that it consumes oxygen and therefore requires adequate ventilation. When lighting a stove, remember to open all the windows and the ventilation openings of the curtain to let the air circulate. In smaller tents and colder climates, a sleeping bag rated for lower temperatures or a lantern with a securely hanging candle should be used instead
Step 8. Keep costs in mind
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Usually, the more expensive tents are made with stronger fabrics, stronger poles, stronger zippers and other features. They will withstand stronger winds and more violent rains. They will last longer. If well maintained, a quality tent can last for many years. However, not everyone will need all this robustness and durability. For milder, drier climates, and perhaps close to home ("so many times it should help"), cheaper tents can be good deals.
- If you are new to camping with your family, and have no idea if you like it, you will probably want to choose a tent that costs less. It will be very likely that you will plan your first trip in hot and dry periods, and you will probably stay close to "civilization" until you have acquired the necessary experience. You can always upgrade to a better tent later, and maybe keep the cheap tent for when the weather allows for use.
- If this is your first time camping, try to find a rental tent or buy a used one.
- As you move on to a better tent, remember the experiences you had with the previous one.
Advice
- Always use an underlay (waterproof sheet to put under the tent). It will protect your investment and provide additional insulation between you and cold, wet ground.
- Keep the instruction booklet for assembly and maintenance that comes with the tent. Put a copy of the booklet in an airtight plastic bag, or alternatively have it laminated to keep it dry and preserve it over time. It will come in handy when you first pitch your tent at the start of each camping season.
- Don't be afraid to mark the poles, buckles or other accessories to remind you where they go. A small piece of colored tape on a pole can make assembly easier.
- Most tents cannot be machine washed with detergent, otherwise you risk damaging the waxed nylon used for the floor and roof. If it is necessary to wash the tent, it is advisable to contact a dry cleaner.
- A small curtain lamp or flashlight that you can hang with a hook from the ceiling is very useful.
- Generally, an open flame should never be kept inside the tent. Nylon is flammable and catches fire very easily. You don't want to wake up in a burning tent!?! If you are using a candle lantern instead of a torch, make sure it is securely closed and suspended with a rope long enough to stay far enough away from the floor, ceiling and walls. Open the flap of the curtain that acts as a chimney (if present) and all the windows. Never place a candle on the floor as it could be bumped. Catalytic stoves should only be used in larger tents with adequate ventilation. Never use the camping stove inside the tent!
- Don't forget to take the pegs with you! Even with a free-standing igloo with personal belongings inside, a strong gust of wind could catapult the tent and its contents away. If weight is an issue, you can forgo the hammer and replace it with a large stone, but pegs are essential.
- Before you take your tent out for your first camping trip, set it up in the yard. So you learn how to pull yourself up, and verify that everything you need is there. You can also spend a night there, to check if it suits your needs. You don't want to be in the forest, in the dark and cold, or worse in the rain, trying to figure out which pole goes where, or finding out that a piece is missing.
- Put a repair kit in your backpack. It should contain some sewing tools, something to seal the seams, spare parts for the posts, and some waterproof tape.
- Before raising the tent, prepare the place where you want to set it up. Sweep the area and remove any sharp stones, twigs, glass or debris. If the place isn't perfectly flat, remember to put your head up - not your feet.
- Always carry the cover with you, even if the weather is forecast to be good. It is better to have it without needing it than to need it without having it. Also remember that a cover sheet is not just to protect the awning from the rain. It also works as an insulating barrier to keep the curtain warmer, and can provide more privacy for curtains that have large windows and mosquito nets.
- Always remember to close the door hinges completely, otherwise spiders and other insects could enter.
- Fold the tent when it is dry. If you have to fold it when it's still wet, remember to put it back when you get home to dry it. You can also use a spray disinfectant to prevent mold growth.
- Always make sure you bring all the supplies, food and water you need.