Shower enclosure sealing is one of the least expensive ways to protect your bathroom from moisture damage. Just be careful to choose a sealant that is specially designed for the bathroom and is also anti-mold at the same time. Silicone sealants are stronger than latex sealants, but latex sealants are easier to clean and remove if you make a mistake. Thorough cleaning of the surface to be sealed ensures that the sealant adheres perfectly and that it performs its insulating function over time. All residues of any previous sealant must also be removed.
Steps
Step 1. Scrub the surface thoroughly with bathroom cleaner to remove all soap residue as well
Step 2. Remove residue from the previous sealant with a utility knife or razor blade
Be careful not to scratch the surface of the shower enclosure.
If you can't scrape off the old sealant, you might want to try using a hot air blower from a hair dryer to try and soften it
Step 3. Clean
Once all the residues have been removed, clean the area to be treated with a rag soaked in denatured alcohol. The alcohol removes any further soap residue and softens any remaining sealant.
Step 4. Vacuum all escape routes and joints
This will allow you to remove any residue that may be left over from the scraping process.
Step 5. Let the shower surfaces dry overnight
Working on perfectly dry surfaces, the sealant adheres better.
Method 1 of 1: Applying the Sealant
A sealant gun is a fairly inexpensive tool that makes it easier and faster to apply sealant. You will need to purchase tubes of sealant specially designed for use with the relevant gun.
Step 1. Load the tube of sealant into the gun by sliding the pin that holds it under pressure back and sliding the back of the tube into the gun
Step 2. Squeeze the trigger gently until the push pin contacts the base of the sealant tube
Step 3. Cut the tip of the dispenser at a 45 ° angle with a pair of scissors
The opening hole should be kept tight enough to avoid excessive leakage of sealant while working - for easier application the opening should be aligned with the base of the gun.
Step 4. Place the opening on the spout where one of the vertical seams of the shower enclosure walls meets the ceiling
The sealant must first be applied to the vertical joints and corners of the shower enclosure.
Step 5. Squeeze the trigger gently as you slowly move the gun down, guiding the nozzle along the seam and spreading an even trickle of sealant
To obtain a uniform surface, excessive interruptions should be avoided.
Step 6. Place the back of a plastic spoon at the beginning of the line you just put the sealant on
By gently pressing the spoon, the sealant penetrates the joint and at the same time smoothes the surface of the sealant. The spoon should be slowly lowered along the joint until the entire area on which the sealant was applied has been smoothed.
Step 7. Keep the spoon and nozzle of the sealant tube clean with a damp sponge
This prevents the sealant from drying out, compromising the uniformity of subsequent applications.
Step 8. Move to the next joint to be sealed, repeating the same steps above until you have finished sealing all joints
Also in this case it is always preferable to start with the vertical joints and corners, then move on to the horizontal ones on the back of the shower and finally to the horizontal ones on the sides. Finally, the sealant must be applied between the door and the cabin jamb.
Step 9. Let the sealant dry for a minimum of 24 to a maximum of 48 hours before using the shower
Advice
- In case you don't want to buy a sealant gun, you can use a squeezable pack of sealant.
- Have the sealant applied in a single session. Stopping it to engage in a different activity, and resuming the session later, could compromise the adhesion of the sealant and leave small passages for moisture and mold.
- Openings larger than 6 mm should not be filled with sealant. Such large spaces need to be filled with specially designed filling material or waxed threads. Then you can proceed to apply the sealant over the filling material.
