The sealant is used to fill expansion joints in areas where movement between materials is possible, such as between tiles, tiles or seams. Unlike grout, silicone sealant is used, which allows expansions and contractions due to heat, cold, humidity, all movements that could occur on a wall behind the tiles, on a floor under the tiles, or in the joints between the tiles and the splash protection panels. In the absence of an elastic sealant, otherwise such expansions could damage a hard coating. Although sealing is a fairly simple operation for a person who has good dexterity, it still requires some practice to be able to put it into action with skill, and in case you combine messes the result would be bad, so it is recommended to practice. !
Steps
Part 1 of 6: Training on a Test Surface
Step 1. Find a surface and some scrap tiles to practice with the sealant
Use a surface that can be discarded after using it. When you have become for the following steps, you will be able to move on to the real job.
Step 2. Mount the sealant tube on your gun
Also keep a damp rag (soaked in water or white spirit) handy, to quickly clean up any mistakes. The choice of water or mineral spirits will depend on the composition of the sealant - see the relevant instructions.
Part 2 of 6: Preparing the Sealant Gun
Step 1. Insert the sealant tube into the gun
This usually comes with the silicone sealant tube or you can buy it at a very cheap price from the same dealer.
Step 2. Pierce the spout of the sealant tube
Use something sharp and fine, like a nail.
Step 3. Cut the tip of the tube
Some people prefer to cut it at a certain angle, others prefer to make a straight cut. This is solely and exclusively a personal preference, even if the angled cut could be useful for reaching particularly narrow spaces.
Part 3 of 6: Using the Sealant Tube
Step 1. Put the tip of the tube where you want to start sealing
Gently squeeze the trigger on the gun to squeeze the sealant out.
Step 2. Move the gun along the line or area you want to seal
Continue to squeeze gently to ensure continuous release of sealant. As it escapes, the sealant forms what is called the "drop" of sealant. The aim in this phase is to have a continuous and uniform thread along the entire line to be sealed.
Please note! Do not pull the bead of sealant more than 1.5 meters at a time before stopping to smooth it. Otherwise you risk that the section laid first will dry out before you can fix it or correct any errors
Part 4 of 6: Fixing the Sealant
Step 1. Check to see if the newly laid sealant needs to be adjusted
If the thread of sealant is already nice and fixed, leave it that way. If, on the other hand, it needs to be sanded, you can use both a finger (perhaps before using it moisten it) or a damp cloth to be able to spread it using due care.
A paper towel can also be used to remove excess sealant that may eventually escape from the area to be sealed
Part 5 of 6: Effectively Apply Sealant
Step 1. It's time to seriously test your sealant application skills
Just repeat the process outlined in the previous sections, but this time you'll actually have to do it where you need to seal. Always keep the damp rag handy to clean any burrs; these are unavoidable but very easy to clean.
- Prepare the surface to be treated properly. Read the instructions that come with the sealant of your choice - for example, silicone sealants need more surface preparation than latex-based ones.
- Remember that it is always better to use too little sealant than too much. You can always add some with a second pass.
Part 6 of 6: Special Sealant Work
For more information on particular and specific jobs that can be done at home to do with the sealant, also read the following articles:
- How to Seal the Shower
- How to Seal the Bathtub
- How to put the silicone back into the bathtub
Advice
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There are several types of sealants. When choosing the one that's right for you, keep in mind the following general characteristics:
- Silicone sealants: ideal for environments with high humidity, where the treated surface must remain free of mold.
- Latex sealants: they are not suitable for coverings with tiles or tiles, nor for areas directly exposed to sunlight. They are usually easier to apply than silicone sealants.
- Acrylic-silicone sealants: they are suitable for areas with very little humidity.
- Bathroom sealants: they are specific for use in the bathroom, but be careful because they do not ensure complete resistance to humidity.
- Specific sealants: for particular uses there are specific sealants, such as those for roofs and roofs, for gutters, for building, transparent ones for lighting, etc. For advice, ask your local dealer.
- Pay attention to the fact that sealants have different compositions. These imply a different yield as regards the final result in terms of uniformity and ease of application. Ask your local dealer for specific advice on different types of sealants.
- Some sealants contain anti-mold components. These make the sealant ideal for applications in humid environments, such as a bathroom or laundry room.
