Sealant is a watertight insulation used in buildings to protect joints from damage and wear. Although it is usually used to seal the cracks around doors, windows and other fixtures, the sealant is also used on floors to seal the remaining space between the wall and the baseboard. In addition to giving the environment a professional and finished look, it also protects the materials from damage that could cause water, humidity and wear. By choosing the right tools, preparing the job properly and applying the sealant with due care, it is easy to seal the skirting boards in a lasting and professional way. To learn how, see the following steps!
Steps
Part 1 of 6: Choice of Sealant and Gun Applicator
Step 1. For tough indoor applications a latex-based sealant can be used
An aspect related to the use of sealants, which can be misleading for the layman, is the fact that there are many different types of sealants that (apparently) can have the same uses. However, the different types of sealant have their own strengths and weaknesses, which make one type more suitable than others for a certain type of job. For example, latex is a perfect type of sealant for indoor applications. It is odorless, which is very important in case of poor ventilation. It also has a high expansion capacity, can be easily cleaned with water and is also available in different colors. Finally, the latex sealant can be painted over once it has dried, which makes it practically invisible.
However, latex does not have the same long-term performance as other types of sealant, which could be problematic if it is subjected to large temperature changes, extreme weather conditions or high wear
Step 2. For applications that require a long life, an acrylic sealant is used
As you might expect from its name, it is a type of sealant created by combining acrylic resins. This type of product has all the characteristics of the latex described above. However, thanks to the properties of acrylic it is more flexible and durable than plain latex, making it a great choice for indoor applications that are subject to high wear.
Step 3. For heavy work and extreme temperatures a silicone sealant is used
The most resistant type of silicone-based sealant can be very difficult to apply, but it adapts to the worst conditions. The resistance of silicone makes it ideal for applications exposed to high temperature variations, severe climatic conditions and heavy wear. For lasting protection in every season, silicone is unrivaled.
However, silicone also has several disadvantages. It cannot be painted, so it necessarily retains its clear appearance. It is also difficult to clean with water, making any smudging that occurs during its application quite a puzzle. Finally, before it dries, it has a strong odor that requires good ventilation for its application
Step 4. Different types of sealant cannot be mixed
While one might think that combining different types of sealant, such as latex with silicone, could result in a combination of each one's characteristics, in reality it would only result in a sealant that would not work as it should. Each sealant has been designed to work on its own. By mixing different types together, a substance is obtained that may not adhere to the surfaces to be treated, may not pull or may not provide the desired protection. To seal skirting boards, which particularly need to be protected from water damage, only one specific sealant should always be used.
Step 5. For large surfaces, a gun is used as an applicator, while for smaller projects, tubes of sealant can be used
If you have to tackle a relatively simple and limited project, such as sealing the baseboard of a bathtub, we can get by with the purchase of small "tubes" of sealant, which are easily used by squeezing them like a toothpaste. For more complex and large projects, it will be preferable to use a special gun with the corresponding sealant cartridges, which are rather quick to use. Even if it takes some time to learn how to use them, they are undoubtedly the most effective choice.
Most guns are quite inexpensive and cost less than € 3.00
Part 2 of 6: Preparing the Workspace
Step 1. You have to clean the floor and the baseboard
Sealant is an extremely sticky substance - it tends to stick to any "loose" object it comes into contact with. Because of this, it is critically important that the wall and baseboard are perfectly clean before starting work. Dust, dirt or grease can mix or stick to the sealant, making it unsightly. More importantly, they can decrease its ability to adhere to surfaces. Since one of the main purposes of the sealant on skirting boards is to prevent water damage, perfect adhesion to surfaces is a must.
- For a thorough cleaning of the floor, skirting board and walls, you can use water or a household cleaner. It is preferable to avoid soapy water in order not to have a slippery surface which would make it difficult for the sealant to adhere.
- For floors where a lot of dust has accumulated, a previous vacuum cleaner would be a quick and effective choice. If possible, to remove dust even from the corners, you could also use the specific accessory for "hard to reach places".
Step 2. You need to remove any obstacles
Although sealing is a risk-free operation, it could become depressing if you were forced to repeat a job that has already been done. To minimize the risk of avoidable errors, it is preferable to have a work area that is completely clear of furniture, carpets and other potential obstacles. If there are children or pets in the house, it is advisable to keep them away from the work area, by setting up suitable barriers or by appointing another person to supervise them. There is nothing worse than having to stop work to get the sealant out of a crawling baby's hair.
Step 3. Have water, household cleaner, and rags on hand
While applying a sealant, small mistakes are inevitable. If you are just starting out, they will also be very frequent. Fortunately, when they occur while applying a sealant, they are unlikely to be serious mistakes. For the vast majority of errors that can occur, the classic damp rag should be sufficient, but a household cleaner could also be useful.
- Plus, having to get down on your knees a lot of the time, the rags can also be used as knee pads for a little extra comfort.
- Note that, as explained above, water alone is not effective for cleaning silicone-based sealants.
Step 4. Spread some paper tape to mask the surfaces to be treated
Perhaps, applying adhesive tape with a good deal of care is the only thing that can be done to make the application of the sealant quick and easy. The tape applied beforehand protects against dripping and allows the sealant to be applied smoothly, cleanly and uniformly. No special type of adhesive tape is required. Just use the common yellow paper tape.
- Two strips of tape should be applied to each surface to be sealed. One on the floor, which follows the skirting board almost touching it. The other on the wall about 1.5 mm from the baseboard and parallel to this.
- Over long distances a single strip of tape is the most practical choice, but the use of different interchangeable lengths is well suited to any application since they must always be parallel to the baseboard and aligned with each other.
Part 3 of 6: Seal the Baseboard
Step 1. Cut the applicator cap on the sealant cartridge
Sealant application guns use specially designed cartridges. They look like elongated, cylindrical tubes with a tapered cone (or "spout") at one end. Before loading the cartridge, the end of this "nozzle" should be cut with a utility knife or a pair of scissors at an angle of approximately 45 degrees to create a small angled hole. The diameter of this hole should be about 3mm - roughly the thickness of a match.
Try to cut the end of the cartridge very carefully. In fact it is easy to enlarge a small hole, but it is impossible to make a hole that is too large
Step 2. The inner membrane of the cartridge must also be pierced
Usually the pistol has a small metal awl that is used to puncture the membrane of the cartridges through the hole that is cut in the nozzle. This allows the sealant to exit easily from the cartridge. The more you pierce the membrane, the easier it will be for the sealant to come out. Usually 4-5 holes are enough.
Note that some types of plastic cartridges do not have an internal membrane. If you do not feel any resistance when using the awl it means that we are dealing with this type of cartridge
Step 3. Load the sealant cartridge into the gun
Most guns load by following these steps:
- The spring lever, or "trigger", of the pistol must be kept pulled.
- The rear pin of the pistol must be pulled all the way back while the trigger is always pressed.
- The cartridge must be inserted into its housing by inserting the rear part, and then insert the nozzle in the appropriate space on the front of the gun.
- Care must be taken that the inclination of the hole on the spout faces downwards. Sometimes it may be necessary to rotate the cartridge to fit it into place.
- Finally, you need to rotate the pin to turn the notches down. You have to pull the trigger a few times until you feel some resistance. Now you can start applying the sealant!
Step 4. If you are unfamiliar with guns, it is good to practice a little
Just spread a sheet of newspaper on the floor and point the gun at it. Pull the trigger lightly until the sealant begins to come out of the spout. At that point you have to move the gun slowly while keeping the trigger pressed. As an exercise just try to make a fine but continuous and even line with the sealant, without gaps or lumps. Once done, you need to lift the spout from the worktop, rotate the pin to bring the notches upwards and unlock the spring-loaded lever. This releases the pressure on the cartridge and the sealant should no longer leak.
When applying the sealant you should not press too hard on the trigger, otherwise you risk breaking the cartridge, creating a mess and having to start over
Step 5. Seal the top of the skirting board
When you are ready to finally apply the sealant where it is actually needed, the tip of the gun should be pointed where the wall meets the top of the baseboard. The hole in the tip must be kept adherent to the wall (i.e. keeping the gun tilted). Turn the notches on the pin down. Pull the trigger with steady force and begin moving the gun along the baseboard as the sealant is applied. Movements must be slow and smooth. Continue along the entire length of the skirting board. Any burrs should be cleaned with a damp cloth.
While working, remember that, to stop applying the sealant, you need to repeat the procedure described in the paragraph where we talked about practicing
Step 6. You can level the sealant with your finger
Once a skirting edge has been sealed, the sealant must be leveled with a finger, both to make it penetrate evenly into the cracks and to give it a uniform and smooth appearance. Just gently swipe your fingertip over the sealant a few inches at a time. When too much sealant has built up on your finger, just wipe it off with a clean, damp rag. Burrs, on the other hand, should not be cleaned with the same rag.
The sealant should not be leveled using too much force. A light pressure of the finger is enough. Excessive force could completely remove the sealant from the wall
Step 7. Seal the bottom of the skirting board
At this point, just repeat the same procedure for the entire length of the skirting board, but this time on the lower edge. Always keep constant pressure on the gun trigger to dispense the sealant. The application of the sealant on the lower part after sealing the upper one avoids that the residues of the work done above can ruin the work on the lower edge.
Once the application is complete, the sealant is leveled as described above
Step 8. The paper tape must be removed before the sealant has dried
Once you have finished the sealing and leveling operations of the skirting board according to your needs, it is time to remove the tape. This should be done when the sealant is still fresh. If, on the other hand, it dries before removing the tape, you would risk taking away the sealant along with the tape, having to redo all the work. The tape is removed by gently pulling one end of the tape at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. To avoid breaking the belt, proceed with caution.
- If several pieces of tape have been used, to remove them it is advisable to proceed in the same direction in which they were applied. For example, if you have applied three pieces of tape from left to right, which have partially overlapped, you will also need to pull them from left to right to remove them.
- The tape should be removed using a little caution - residue of sealant could stick to clothing and stain them.
Part 4 of 6: Seal securely
Step 1. Always work in well-ventilated areas
In general, applying sealant is not a particularly dangerous job. It is quite unlikely to expose yourself and others to any kind of risk while applying the sealant. That said, there are precautions that can be taken to further (even significantly) reduce the risks. First of all it is advisable to make sure that the work environment is adequately ventilated. An open window or a running fan increases the airflow which disperses the odors and fumes that the fresh sealant may release. This is particularly important for silicone-based sealants, which have a particularly strong odor.
When working outdoors it is usually not necessary to ask yourself this type of problem
Step 2. You can wear gloves
Unlike other substances that are used in housework, the sealant is neither dangerous nor caustic - its purpose is to be as inert as possible. However, it is particularly sticky and difficult to clean on skin and clothing (especially when it has dried), so it may be helpful to wear gloves to avoid contact with your hands and sleeves. This way you can also clean quickly and easily.
Since a splash of sealant on the eyes could be painful (although quite unlikely), a pair of safety glasses could also be worn
Step 3. The blades must be handled with care
The only stage where you are most likely to get injured when using a sealant is paradoxically before using it. When cutting the tip of the nozzle of the sealant cartridge, you must use all necessary precautions to avoid cutting yourself. Using a utility knife, the cartridge should be held with one hand and kept at a safe distance from the tip of the nozzle. The blade must always be directed from the opposite side outwards, never towards yourself. When cutters and scissors are not needed, they must be stored in a safe place and possibly far from the work area.
Step 4. The sealant should not be ingested or inhaled
Finally, it is useful to remember that, although it is practically harmless, the sealant was not manufactured to be ingested or inhaled, so in these cases it could have health consequences. In the event that it is ingested, it is necessary to promptly contact a Poison Control Center to obtain the necessary information.
After using it, you need to wash your hands to make sure you don't accidentally ingest even minute amounts of sealant
Part 5 of 6: Finishing the Job
Step 1. The sealant must be protected during drying
Once the sealant has been applied and the paper tape removed, all that's left to do is wait for it to dry. Different types of sealant have different drying times, so for specific directions you will need to check the packaging and instructions. Regardless of how long it takes, you should make sure that the sealant is not contaminated with dirt or dust as it dries. It will also be necessary to keep children and pets away.
Step 2. Proceed with manual fixing of less noticeable burrs
When applying sealant, small burrs are very common. Usually the fixing of these types of errors is done by hand with a finger before the sealant dries, since it would be much more difficult to correct them once the sealant has dried. Just repeat the same procedure that is adopted to level the sealant just applied and, if necessary, apply more sealant. In case you notice an error after the sealant has dried, you need to reapply the paper tape on the affected area, take some sealant with your finger and spread it over the crack or in the gap until it is well aligned with that. previously applied. Once dry, the repair should be hardly visible.
- If you have used a gun for the application but have a handy tube of sealant available, it may be easier to use the sealant for touch-ups, rather than having to reassemble the gun, dispense the sealant and, probably, having to clean the smudges. The important thing is to always use the same type of sealant!
- As always, remember to remove the tape when the sealant is still fresh.
Step 3. It's time for cleaning
Well done! We have come to the end. What remains to be done is to arrange the environment as it was before starting work. The gun pressure must be released and the cartridge removed. Many types of cartridges have a cap to store the remaining sealant. If not, you can use transparent film to be fixed with a rubber band or adhesive tape. Hands and tools should be washed with water, soap and a sponge. The debris and dirt are collected, then the furniture and carpets can be put back in their place.
When the remaining sealant is used after some time, it will probably be necessary to clean the nozzle with a nail or pin to remove the dried sealant
Part 6 of 6: Determine If You Can Apply a Sealant
Step 1. Know when applying a sealant is appropriate
In general, applying a sealant is a fairly simple and inexpensive chore. However, this too has its limitations. A sealant is suitable for closing small gaps between the baseboard and the floor or wall. Instead it is not suitable for protecting the skirting board itself, which in turn should be specially painted with specific products that can protect it from humidity and wear. In addition to this, although the application of a sealant is a great way to waterproof the undersides of a room, it nevertheless fails to be a watertight system for large sources of moisture such as a water leak, a broken pipe, non-waterproofed walls or ceilings, and so on. So applying a sealant to the baseboard is only one of the steps to be taken to waterproof a room, which should also be whitewashed, refinished, tiled and so on.
It should also be noted that skirting boards should not be sealed if the floor or walls were of raw wood. In these cases the sealant would offer no protection against moisture and in no way could it create a watertight barrier on the surface on which it was applied
Step 2. The time needed to complete the job should be determined
The time it takes to apply the sealant can vary according to the size of the environment you intend to work on, but also the time it takes to become familiar with the tools and materials to be used. If you only intend to work on one room, it may take just a couple of hours, but larger projects may take up to several days of work. Regardless of the size of the job, you can't go into this activity too quickly, so it's a good idea to budget a little more time than you think might be necessary. A job that involves applying the sealant to all the baseboards in your home could take a long time in the short term, but any mistakes due to a job done quickly could cost a lot more in the long run.
Step 3. Cost estimate
Applying a sealant is usually a fairly inexpensive job. The guns in the shops cost just 3-7 euros, up to the more professional models that can cost 15-18 euros. Sealant cartridges usually cost no more than 5 euros. In addition to this material, you may need to get some paper tape, a utility knife or a pair of scissors, and a pair of gloves. Overall, it shouldn't be necessary to spend more than 25-30 euros. If you already own any of these tools, the overall cost will obviously be lower.
Actual costs will vary mainly based on the number of sealant cartridges you will need to use. As a reference, it can be considered that for a 3x3 m bathroom you will need a couple of cartridges. It is usually advisable to purchase a little more sealant than expected - if any sealant is left over, you can save it for later use
Advice
- Should any burrs occur on the wall, floor or any other part during the application of the sealant, they must be cleaned immediately with a damp cloth.
- For small paint adjustments to be made on a sealed skirting board, it is advisable to use a brush with the bristles at 45 degrees. The brush is lightly dipped in the paint, with the longer bristles you start painting from the joint, pulling the paint on the baseboard - then you can finish filling with normal brush strokes. The finishing must be done with vertical brush strokes to avoid creating a sharp line at the edges.
- Whenever possible, it is advisable to let the sealant dry overnight before painting the skirting board. If you intend to paint the sealed skirting board, it is advisable to use a glossy paint (semi-glossy or satin) to facilitate its cleaning. Depending on the intended use of the environment, the whitening can be opaque, satin or semi-gloss. If paints with a different degree of gloss are used on the walls and baseboards, paper tape should be used to mask the wall, unless you have a particularly steady hand. On freshly whitewashed walls, paper tape should be used with caution - it is often said that the paint takes 30 days to dry, otherwise the paper tape could ruin the whitewash. A special "delicate surface" tape can also be used which is specially designed for use on freshly whitened surfaces.
