Surfing was originally an activity reserved only for members of the royal house in Hawaii, but it is now a popular sport that is practiced in virtually every place in the world where the waves break. Some describe the ability to catch waves and ride them as a life-changing experience. If you are interested in learning to surf, make sure you have the right equipment, train yourself to develop the necessary skills, and be prepared to catch your first waves.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Buying the Right Equipment
Step 1. Rent a soft board the first time
Don't invest in your own board if you've never surfed before. In most of the beaches where this sport can be practiced, there are agencies and schools that rent boards for a day or by the hour at a reasonable price and have a wide range to choose from.
- Usually you can choose between fiberglass and soft boards, which are sometimes called "soft top" or "foamy". Soft boards are lightweight and much cheaper than fiberglass or epoxy boards. They also have excellent buoyancy and strength, making them the perfect choice for beginners.
- Your height and weight are factors to consider when choosing which board to learn on. The more weights, the greater the volume of the board. You won't enjoy a good learning experience if you try to learn on a board that is too small for you.
- If you are unsure about the equipment you need or want, chat with the people you will find at the store. Be honest and let them know this is their first time on the board and you want to know what you need to get started.
Step 2. Try a long board on the first few tries
Longboards are the oldest model of board and also the most popular, the length can vary from 2, 4 to 3, 7 m. While it doesn't offer as much maneuverability or versatility as other types of boards, the longboard is often recommended for beginners because it is easy to use.
- The higher the volume of the board, the easier it is to keep your balance and paddle in the waves. All of this makes the experience much more fun for most of the learners.
- If you've tried a longboard before and would like something easier to maneuver, then you should try a funboard. This is a hybrid model, slightly shorter than the long board, usually 2, 1-2, 6m. The funboard combines the stability and ease typical of longboards with the maneuverability and agility of short boards.
Step 3. As you improve, move on to shortboards
They are no longer than 2.1m, with very pointed anterior end and several fins. To be able to handle them, the surfer must have a lot of practice, but ultimately they are considered boards for professionals who need high-performance equipment (however, some professionals still prefer longboards).
- Fish boards are even shorter than shortboards and much wider. They are flat and with a reduced profile, suitable for riding small waves that other boards often can't catch. It is a great tool for intermediate to advanced surfers.
- Alternatively, you can evaluate the gun board, which is always an expert model. It is very thin with a very pointed nose, designed for experienced surfers who want to ride huge waves. It can handle very steep waves and great speeds, but it's not easy to control if you're a novice.
Step 4. Get a wetsuit.
In many places, the wetsuit is just as essential as the board to enjoy a good surf. This garment keeps the body warm in winter climates, prevents chills and hypothermia. If your local surf shop recommends a wetsuit, try one on and rent (or buy) one before heading out to sea.
Step 5. Buy some surfboard wax
This is an important and inexpensive product that is rubbed on the top of the board to improve the grip of the feet and keep the balance on the water. Before jumping into the waves, ask the shop assistant which type of wax is best for the water temperature.
Step 6. Also buy a lanyard (also called a leash)
This simple tool will prevent you from losing your board when you fall into the water. When you are thrown by a wave, there is no need to stay where the storm breaks without the board. In addition, you must also prevent your equipment from floating freely, annoying other surfers or breaking on the rocks. Make sure you also have the small carabiner to attach the leash to the appropriate anchor point located on the tail of the board.
Part 2 of 3: Getting Started
Step 1. First, practice dry
Attach the leash to the ankle of the rear foot and the rear end (tail) of the board, then lie prone on it, so that the body is exactly in the center. From this position, practice paddling with both arms to figure out which muscles you need to work.
Don't get in the water right away on your first lesson or you will experience an immediate sense of frustration. Take some time to practice on the beach or in the privacy of your own backyard, before jumping into the sea in front of other people
Step 2. Practice getting up
The "taking off" (also called "popping up" in surfing jargon) is the moment in which the athlete takes the wave and gets up on the board. This movement takes some practice. While lying on the board, lift your hands from the water and bring them close to your chest, palms flat on the surf and fingers resting on the edge.
- In one quick motion, push your body up with the strength of your arms and bring your feet under you. One foot must occupy the space where the hands were and the other must lie back, shoulder-width apart (at a minimum).
- In the beginning, it will probably be easier for you to get down on your knees and lift up on one foot at a time until you are standing upright. This is a slower movement than jumping, but is quite effective for those who are not yet ready for decisive action.
- Never grab the rails (i.e. the edges of the board) when lifting, unless you want to get a nice deep cut on your chin as your hands slide.
- If you find that your hands or feet lose grip while taking off, then you need to rub more wax on the board.
- You can practice jumping even without the board, so feel free to practice wherever you have some space to do it.
Step 3. Learn how to stand on the board correctly
Once you are up, bend your knees, keep your arms relaxed and away from your body, your feet should be flat and snug against the board, your torso slightly bent forward to lower your center of gravity.
- Depending on which foot you spontaneously put in front, your position can be defined as "regular" or "goofy". The regular position involves keeping the left foot forward, while it is the right that remains in front of the goofy.
- Beginners have a habit of maintaining a rather squatting position in the beginning. They keep their feet very wide apart, from the bow to the stern of the board. This might make them feel a little more comfortable, but it actually makes it much harder to control the surf. Balance must be maintained transversely and not longitudinally to the board. You will notice that experienced surfers ride the waves with their feet much closer than you think.
- Correct posture also involves keeping your gaze in the direction you are moving.
Step 4. Paddle in the water to gain confidence
The only way to find the "balance point" on the board is to use it in the water and paddle. The board should float on the water with the nose slightly raised. A good position to find balance is to have your toes in contact with the attachment point of the leash.
- If the bow of the board is too high, it means that the body is lying too far aft. If it submerges in water, then you are too far forward. Finding the right spot is essential, as it allows you to paddle with maximum efficiency.
- Paddle with long and deep movements starting from the tip towards the back of the board, stretching your arms as much as possible.
Step 5. Talk to experienced surfers or instructors if you can
The best way to prepare to get in the water is to do it with another person nearby who knows how to surf, who can give you advice and show you the mistakes you make.
- If you have a surfer friend, ask him for help. Friends are not paid instructors and thanks to them you can practice in private rather than on the beach in front of hundreds of swimmers.
- Talk to an instructor. This is the most effective way to learn the basics of surfing in a methodical and clear way. For an hourly fee, the instructor will teach you everything you need to know and will give you tips that will help you enter the world of this sport while having fun.
Step 6. Find a place to surf
Before planning your sea outing, visit a couple of beaches that are enabled for this sport and swim for a while to get a feel for the water. Never surf in areas where you don't trust swimming alone.
- Ask for some advice. You can go to the surf shop or meet experienced sportsmen who can recommend the best place for a beginner. They will probably be happy to help you.
- Do some research on the internet. If you can't find reliable advice on the spot, look for reviews and recommendations online. You can often come across forums or bulletin boards where local surfers discuss the best areas to practice and exchange information.
- Always keep yourself safe. If there is a lifeguard tower, consider surfing during the beach hours. Take some time to ask other surfers you meet by the sea if you need to pay attention to anything in particular and if they have any advice for you.
Step 7. Learn the basics of surfer "good manners" before entering the water
Knowing the basic rules of coexistence in the water allows you to make the first experience fun and safe. Here are some basic safety rules to remember:
- Respect the right of way. When more than one person is paddling to catch a wave, the one closest to the wave crest has the right to ride it.
- Do not interfere in the maneuvers of others. Paddling to catch a wave or start riding it while someone else is doing it on the crest is considered rude and potentially dangerous. Remember to check the entire front of the wave for other surfers before attempting to catch it.
- Popular and very crowded beginner beaches often do not have these strict rules and it is not uncommon to see multiple people riding the same wave (sometimes called "party waves"). If two people are waiting for the same wave, the one who rides it first and is closest to the crest has the right of way.
Part 3 of 3: Catch the Wave
Step 1. Locate your target area
You must be in waist deep water where the wave has already broken and creates the white foam. This is the best place to learn for a novice. Don't try to paddle too far out where there are experienced surfers waiting for the right wave, but at the same time make sure you are not in dangerously shallow water where you could hit your head in the event of a fall.
Choose a point of reference. Locate an element of the surrounding environment on the shore and check it periodically as you move into deeper water. This way you can gauge the distance from the beach and understand if there are hidden currents that are moving you
Step 2. Paddle to your chosen spot
When you feel ready to face the waves, step into the water by walking the board until the level reaches your waist or chest, then lie down on it and paddle towards the waves.
- At this stage you have to go straight. If you hit the waves at a certain angle, you will lose the momentum you have painstakingly achieved. Try to keep the board perpendicular to the oncoming waves and "cut" into them.
- To perform this movement, you can try to lift the front of the body to overcome the wave more easily, so that you avoid being pushed back to shore.
Step 3. Turn the board and wait for the right wave
Sit on the board with your nose out of the water. Move your legs in the water as if they were a whisk to turn the board and point it ashore. Put your body in the balance point of the surf and get ready to paddle with a long, deep and firm movement of the arms, so as to catch the wave.
When you see the wave coming, get in position near the crest of the same, avoiding however to seem the usual "greedy of waves". When you are satisfied and in good position, paddle with all your strength and give everything you have
Step 4. Start paddling to try and catch the wave
When you realize the speed and movement of the wave and feel like you have gained momentum, then it's time to get up on the board using the technique you learned earlier.
- As I paid, look straight ahead; if you look around, you lose power.
- Move quickly. You have to catch the wave before it breaks, so you have time to ride it. It's pretty common for beginners to catch the wave and ride it when it's already foaming (but that's great in the beginning).
- Be patient. If you miss a wave, paddle offshore again and wait for the next one that suits you.
Step 5. Ride the wave
Keep your feet firmly planted on the board, knees bent, arms relaxed, and gaze in the direction you are going. You are now on the crest of your first wave! Stay focused and let yourself be carried to the shore, don't lose sight of the other swimmers while you surf.
Start with something simple. During the first few attempts you just have to be led back to shore in a straight line. This is the slowest and shortest method of riding waves compared to transverse trajectories. In any case it is also the simplest way
Step 6. When you feel ready, try making turns
As you get used to the feeling of surfing, you will probably want to try putting the board across the wave. In this case, tilt and bend your body, keeping your center of gravity on the board. Use your body weight to dip one of the board rails into the break. This movement creates friction and will cause the board to rotate. When you are satisfied with the inclination you have reached, keep your balance and ride the wave inside it, under the crest that closes on you.
Promptly choose the direction you want to take while moving sideways (to the right or left). If the wave is low enough, start paddling in the direction you want before you start riding it. If the wave is big, then wait until you get up
Step 7. Prepare to be swept away by the force of the sea
If you feel that you are about to fall or the wave has died, jump away from the direction of the momentum you took. It is best to fall behind or to the side of the board, protecting your head with your arms. Follow the flow of the water letting the wave lead you. Swim to the surface calmly and pay attention to what's above you to avoid getting hit by the board.
- Try to fall "flat" so you don't get injured in shallow water or on the reef.
- Once you are safely back to the surface, pull the leash to retrieve the board and willow it to prevent it from floating and going anywhere in the water. An uncontrolled board is a danger to you and others. Get on the board, lie on your stomach and regain control.
- Most injuries following a fall are the result of collisions with the board. Always remember to fall offshore (relative to the board) and not towards the shore when the wave takes control of your surf.
- If this is your very first time riding a wave, it is better to rent a soft board and not a fiberglass model, as with the former you are less likely to get hurt while learning.
Step 8. Use the escape routes to get around
Once you've fallen or given up on a wave, you need to get out of the way to allow other people to surf. Do not paddle in the middle of the surf, where other surfers may arrive, on the contrary, move sideways to clear the area.
Step 9. Keep trying
At first attempts, you will likely fall or slip, but don't be discouraged. Some people learn in an afternoon, while others need a few weeks to manage all the movements. Keep practicing and eventually you will make it.
- Avoid getting down on your knees and stopping in that position. If you have decided to give it a try, commit and get up. Kneeling on the board is like saddling the horse without riding it.
- Enjoy the sea and have fun.
Advice
- If you fall, practice holding your breath for long periods underwater; some waves force you to stay immersed for longer than others. Beware of the waves that come and that will push you under again!
- Don't feel embarrassed because you're not good. That's not true at all, you're just learning.
- Always follow the advice of safety signs and experienced surfers.
- Respect the local community wherever you go surfing. Follow the rules and be friendly.
- Push-ups and abs are great exercises to get you in shape for surfing. Most of the movements that are done in this sport involve the muscle groups that are stressed during these exercises.
- Don't be afraid to ask for help! Many experienced surfers will be happy to help beginners as long as they behave politely.
- Start with some bodyboard boards to get started, this way you will learn what it feels like to ride the waves.
- Keep calm. Falling off the board could be dangerous, but if you keep your cool there is nothing to fear. Think quietly and act decisively to minimize the risks.
- If you've never surfed before, consider hiring an instructor.
- Always be aware of your surroundings; check for other surfers and marine animals.
- Always surf with a friend. It is safer and could help you in case you fall. A friend can even push you on the wave!
Warnings
- Avoid areas with back currents. The surface of the water appears to be filled with sand, so much so that it can be brown or reddish. Back currents form near coral reefs, piers and docks.
- If you get caught in a back current, swim parallel to the beach until you come out of the "suck", do not try to resist the force of the current by swimming towards the shore. If you can't swim in this direction, hit the water, try to float and yell for help.
- Beginners should stay close to shore until they gain enough experience with easy waves.
- Start practicing in the beginner zones, away from experienced surfers.
- Don't surf alone, especially if you're a beginner. Even having a friend on the beach is better than nothing.
