Grafting is the best solution if you want to increase the production of your favorite fruit, because in this way you can ensure that the new fruits, born from the graft, retain the same qualities as the original variety. There are different types of grafting, but with practice and the following instructions you will know how to master the technique that best suits your needs.
Steps
Method 1 of 5: T-joint
Step 1. Choose the cultivar and the graft holder
For grafting to be successful, you need to cut both a scion (a small piece for grafting) from an intact and healthy cultivar (from the original tree) and the stem of a vigorous tree well adapted to the soil conditions, which will constitute the graft holder. For the T-graft the bark of both trees will have to be "slippery". This means that it should appear easily removable and with the green layer underneath moist - characteristics that usually occur in spring. Try watering them to give them vigor.
The T-graft is typically used for fruit trees
Step 2. Cut a scion
For the T-graft it is necessary to make a cut in the branch from 1 cm below the bud to 2 cm below the bud. It should be deep enough to reach the soft, green layer beneath the bark, no further. The green part must be visible to succeed in grafting. If you need to store the gem, wrap it in a wet paper towel, place it in a polyethylene bag and then in the refrigerator.
Step 3. Make a T-cut in the graft holder
Pick a spot on a tender branch or stem that is 0.5 to 2.5cm in diameter. The spot should be free from other shoots, ideally away from any buds. On the bark make a vertical cut deep enough to insert the green layer of the scion and about 2.5 cm long. Make a horizontal cut of the same depth, which will be about 1/3 of the circumference of the graft holder. Twist the knife into the seam of the cuts to create flaps in the bark, making the green layer below visible.
Step 4. Introduce the scion
Slip the scion containing the bud under the fins you just created on the graft holder, taking care not to let any dirt or germs in. If part of the scion bark protrudes from above the T-cut, finish with a cut so that everything fits together perfectly.
Step 5. Tie the scion to the graft holder
Wrap a string of elastic rubber, such as special rubber straps for grafting, around the graft holder to hold the scion firmly in place. Be careful not to bump or cover the gem.
Step 6. Remove the tape
It is very likely that, after a month, the wire wrapped around the graft holder will have loosened or removed. If it has not, remove it gently so that the graft is not compressed.
Step 7. Follow the bud growth
If she looks full and healthy, she is most likely alive. If she looks skimpy, then it means she's dead and you'll have to start all over again.
Step 8. Remove the remaining parts
In spring, when the bud has started to sprout, make an inclined cut 1 cm above the shoot. Remove any other bumps that are under the bud to encourage graft growth.
Method 2 of 5: Chip-Bud grafting
Step 1. Choose cultivars and rootstocks
For grafting to be successful, you need to cut both a scion (a small piece for grafting) from an intact and healthy cultivar (from the original tree) and the stem of a vigorous tree well adapted to the soil conditions, which will constitute the graft holder. With this method the diameters of the scions and the graft holder must be the same, otherwise you will have to cut them so that the green layers match once they are combined.
Chip-bud (or chip-budding) grafting is one of the simplest grafting methods and is particularly appropriate for fruit trees, citrus trees and trees in the Rosaceae family, including apple trees, for example
Step 2. Cut a portion of the graft holder
Make a small angled cut, with which to remove a piece of thick bark about 1/5 to 1/4 the diameter of the graft holder. With the knife, make an incision to a depth between 0.5 and 1 cm. Remove it without removing the bark. Above the incision make a cut inside the shaft, continuing downwards, so as to meet the end of the previous incision and create a small notch in the shaft. Remove the piece of bark from the graft holder.
Step 3. Cut a scion from the cultivar
Use the piece cut from the graft holder as a template for the scion, so that the bud is in the center of the new incision. It is advisable that the scion adhere as best as possible to the shape of the notch made in the graft holder.
Step 4. Insert the scion into the graft holder
Slide the scion down to the base of the notch. Make sure that the green layers of the scion and graft holder stick together well, otherwise grafting will fail.
Step 5. Secure the scion
Wrap a string of elastic rubber around the graft holder to hold the scion in place. A polyethylene tape is preferable. Be careful not to bump or cover the gem.
Some of the specifics of this process vary based on the type of tree you want to grow and the type of material used. For example, if you are using grafting tape and grafting an apple tree, it would be best to cover the whole thing with tape, since the tape prevents the grafted portion from drying out until the bud grows tearing it apart. Other materials, on the other hand, may not provide the same protection and may be more robust to tear. Covering larger grafts may be difficult and they can be exposed to the action of air. It all depends on the type of fruit
Step 6. Remove the tape
It is very likely that after a month the wire wrapped around the graft holder will have loosened or removed. If it has not, remove it gently so that the graft is not compressed.
Step 7. Follow the bud growth
If she looks full and healthy, she is most likely alive. If she looks skimpy, then it means she's dead and you'll have to start all over again.
Step 8. Remove the remaining parts
In spring, when the bud has started to sprout, make an inclined cut 1 cm above the shoot. Remove any other bumps that will be under the bud to encourage graft growth.
Method 3 of 5: English split grafting
Step 1. Choose cultivars and rootstocks
The English split graft can only be used with graft holders and scions of the same diameter ranging from 0.5 to 1 cm.
- Grafting must be done at the end of the rigors of winter and before the bark begins to peel off.
- The scion must be dormant (i.e. not in bloom) and bear a tender sprig about 30 cm long with 3-5 shoots.
Step 2. Prepare the scion
Remove the end of the scion with an oblique cut.
Step 3. Prepare the Graft Holder
Make an inclined cut in the branch you have chosen in a mirror image of the one made with the scion, so as to make them fit together.
Step 4. Cut the tongues
Make cuts inside the ends of both the graft holder and the scion so that they snap together.
Step 5. Insert the scion
Place the scion slightly away from the graft holder and slide it so that the tongues overlap. Make sure the green inner layers line up, otherwise grafting will fail.
Step 6. Secure the scion
Wrap a string of elastic rubber around the graft holder to hold the scion in place. Grafting tape will do just fine. If you use a different material, don't forget to remove it within a month.
Step 7. Follow the graft
Remove all bumps underneath the graft except for the budding leaflets which can be left until grafting is successful in order to encourage the flow of nutrients into the plant.
Once the scion begins to grow and a few leaves appear above the bud (about 5 healthy leaves), remove further growth from the graft holder, below the bud. This removal will help the plant to grow on the scion instead of on the graft holder and must be done throughout the life of the tree. Otherwise, the graft holder will try to develop its own branches; you need to remove them every time they pop up
Method 4 of 5: Crown Grafting
Step 1. Choose cultivars and rootstocks
The scions should have three tender, dormant, non-flowering twigs, about 30 cm long with 3-5 shoots. Don't cut both at the same time.
- The graft holder should have two straight, smooth branches 2 to 5 cm in diameter.
- This type of grafting should be done once the graft carrier bark has begun to peel off in spring.
- It is normally used in cases where the rootstock is too large for the English split graft.
Step 2. Shorten the graft holder
Over the crotch of the branches make a straight cut with a well-sharpened saw so as not to break or tear the bark and wood of the branch. Be sure to leave a branch nearby to encourage the flow of nutrients into the plant.
Step 3. Prepare the scions
Cut the scions to a length of about 13 cm, making sure they have about 5 buds each. 7 cm from the base of the scion make an oblique cut inwards until you reach the base.
Step 4. Prepare the Graft Holder
You will need to arrange the scions so that they rest about 3 mm on the graft holder. With a sharp knife, outline the contours of the scions on the graft holder. Finish removing the bark in order to comfortably insert the scions into these spaces.
Step 5. Insert the scions
Place each scion in its seat that you made on the graft holder, making sure that the inner green layers of both pieces (scion and graft holder) are aligned correctly. Once in place, put two common nails in each scion to secure it to the graft holder.
Step 6. Seal the graft
Cover all areas where cuts and incisions are made with grafting wax or putty to prevent them from drying out or being attacked by germs. Check this system several times throughout the day to be sure there are no holes and cracks.
Step 7. Follow the graft
Remove any bumps under the graft. If one scion appears to be more promising than the other, leave it as is and prune the less encouraging one. Spend two summers, remove everything, leaving the scion stronger.
Method 5 of 5: Split Graft
Step 1. Choose cultivars and rootstocks
The scions must have two tender, dormant and non-flowering twigs, about 30 cm long with 3-5 buds.
- The graft holder should have two straight, smooth branches 2 to 5 cm in diameter.
- This type of grafting should be done once the graft carrier bark has begun to peel off in spring.
- It is normally used on several branches of a mature tree to change the variety of fruit.
Step 2. Shorten the graft holder
Choose a point below which the stem is straight and free of imperfections for about fifteen centimeters. Then make a clean, perpendicular cut to remove everything else. Be careful not to tear or tear the stem or bark. Be sure to leave a branch that has sprouted nearby to help the flow of nutrients into the plant.
Step 3. Split the graft holder in two
Use a split grafting blade or hatchet to divide the straight shaft in the center by 6 ''.
Step 4. Prepare the scions
Remove the tip and base of the scion. Starting just below the end of the bud, make an oblique cut on both sides of the scion to the end of the end.
Step 5. Insert the scions into the graft holder
Using a screwdriver or small chisel to hold the graft holder gap open, insert the scions into the sides of the split. Make sure once again that the inner green layer of both parts (the scion and the graft holder), not the bark, are aligned with each other. No cut surface on the scion should be visible on the end of the graft holder.
Step 6. Seal the graft
Cover all areas of cuts and incisions with grafting wax or putty to prevent them from drying out or being attacked by germs. Check this system the next day making sure there are no holes and cracks.
Step 7. Follow the graft
Remove any bumps under the graft. If one scion appears to be more promising than the other, leave it as is and prune the less encouraging one. Spend two summers, remove everything, leaving the scion stronger.
Advice
- T-grafting is the most common and easiest method, but inverted T-grafting (which reverses the T-grafting process) is more effective. Chip-bud grafting is the most difficult, but the best.
- Use aluminum labels to mark the variety or cultivar used for grafting. It is especially useful if you are grafting several varieties into one tree.
- Use sharp tools to keep the cuts clean and clean them with isopropyl alcohol to remove germs before use.
- You can graft fruit and nut trees during spring in temperate climates, from sprouting to flowering. In autumn it is advisable to graft citrus trees.
- Protect the graft site from the sun as much as possible.
- A nursery can give you advice on how to graft a particular tree and the tools and materials needed.
Warnings
- Make sure your trees are able to live in your climate.
- It is necessary to pay the propagation fee - which is usually not very expensive - at a nursery that holds the patented cultivar license to avoid legal action by the Nursery Licensing Association.
