Chiffon is a light, delicate and slippery fabric, so it can be a rather difficult material to hem. You can try to make one by hand or using the sewing machine but, in any case, it is important to work calmly and carefully so that the seam is as smooth as possible.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Making the Hemming by Hand
Step 1. Sew the raw edge following a straight line
Insert the light thread matching the fabric into the needle and sew along the hem following a straight line that is about 6 mm from the raw edge.
- After sewing this line, trim the edge so that there is only 3mm between the thread line and the raw edge.
- The seam will then be located at the bottom of the hem. Doing so will help you create an even, even roll.
Step 2. Fold the raw edge
Fold the raw edge towards the wrong side of the fabric. Run it over with the iron.
- While not strictly necessary, ironing the fold will make it less likely to unwind as you sew it.
- Fold the fabric so that the crease is just after the starting stitches, which should be visible on the underside of the fabric, but not on the front.
Step 3. Pull the threads with the sewing needle
Grab a thread inserted into the fabric and a stitch in the edge of the fold. Pass the needle through it, but don't pull it yet.
- For best results, use a small, sharp needle. This will make it easier to lift the individual strands.
- The point made in the fold should be as close as possible to the actual fold. Make it between the line made up of your starting points and the crease itself.
- The threads pulled from the front of the fabric should be right above the stitches in the fold. In addition, these threads should be above the raw edge.
- Make sure you only pull one or two strings at a time. Raising more could make the hem on the front of the fabric more visible.
Step 4. Make a few more points in the same way
Each stitch should include one or two threads and should be about 0.6mm apart from the previous one.
Repeat until you have made a line of stitches of about 2.5 / 5cm
Step 5. Pull the thread
Pull the thread lightly in the direction of the stitches. The raw edge should roll up into the hem, becoming invisible.
- Apply some pressure, but don't pull hard. Pulling excessively could cause the fabric to curl.
- Smooth out any bubbles or irregularities with your fingers.
Step 6. Repeat along the entire length of the hem
Continue sewing along the remaining part of the hem in the same way, until you reach the end. Stop the stitches and trim the excess thread.
- As you improve in execution, you will be able to pull the thread every 10-13 cm, instead of every 2.5-5 cm.
- If you have performed the procedure correctly, the raw edge should be hidden under the wrong side of the fabric and the stitches of the hem should be barely visible from the front.
Step 7. Once finished, iron the fabric
The hem may already be smooth enough but, if you prefer, go over it with an iron.
Done
Method 2 of 3: Making the Chiffon Hem with a Sewing Machine
Step 1. Baste the raw edge
Using your sewing machine, sew a straight line about 6mm from the raw edge of the chiffon.
- This line will help you fold the hem straight. It will also soften the corners, making it easier to make a fold with precision..
- To carry out the basting, you could increase the thread tension by a notch. However, remember to restore the settings once this operation is complete.
Step 2. Fold and iron
Turn the raw edge inside out, folding it along the basting line. Then pass it over with the iron.
- Holding the fabric taut along the basting line may help you fold it more precisely.
- Iron up and down instead of moving side to side to prevent the material from stretching or shifting as you go.
- Use a lot of steam to iron the fold.
Step 3. Which inside the folded edge
Use the sewing machine to make another line along the edge of the chiffon. It should be about 3mm from the folded edge.
This line of stitches will represent another guideline that will allow you to fold the hem more easily
Step 4. Check the raw edge
Use sharp scissors to trim the edge near the new stitched line, created in the previous step.
But make sure you don't cut the threads
Step 5. Fold the hem line
Turn the material inside out again, enough to fold under the raw edge. Go over the fold with the iron.
The second line of stitches should now be folded, while the starting line should still be visible
Step 6. Sew through the center of the rolled hem
Calmly sew around the hem, proceeding along the edge of the line until you reach the end.
- You should find yourself with one line of stitches visible on the front and one visible on the back.
- You can use a straight stitch or a stitch near the edge for this step.
- Do not stare at the hem. Leave enough yarn at the beginning and at the end, in order to knot it by hand.
Step 7. Iron the hem
Iron the hem once again to flatten it as much as possible.
Done
Method 3 of 3: Hem the Chiffon Using a Rolled Hem Foot
Step 1. Attach a rolled hem foot to the sewing machine
Follow your sewing machine instructions to change the foot, replacing the standard foot with the rolled hem foot.
If you don't already have one, choose the rolled hem foot carefully. A good quality and versatile foot will allow you to make this type of hem with a straight, zig zag or decorative stitch. For this project, however, you will only need one that allows you to make a straight stitch
Step 2. Baste a short line
Lower the presser foot onto the material, without inserting it into the guide. Sew a standard line of stitches 1.25 to 2.5 cm long, above the raw edge.
- After sewing this line, let a long end of thread hang down. Both the stitch line and the attached thread will help guide the fabric under the foot.
- Do not fold the fabric yet.
- Sew along the wrong side of the material.
Step 3. Insert the edge of the fabric under the special foot
Insert the edge of the fabric into the guide, folding the raw edge up on one side and down on the opposite side.
- Keep the presser foot raised as you feed the material, then lower it once it is set.
- Getting the material into the foot can be tricky. Use the thread attached to the previously basted stitches to help lift, guide and maneuver the edge under the presser foot.
Step 4. Sew the edge of the hem
With the edge inserted into the presser foot and the presser foot lowered to the fabric, sew slowly and carefully along the edge of the chiffon, stopping when you reach the end.
- If the edge has been properly inserted into the foot, it should continue to roll up as you go. You don't need to do anything else.
- Using your right hand, hold the remaining edge straight as you sew, allowing it to slide evenly under the presser foot.
- Work slowly and carefully to avoid wrinkling. When you are done you should find yourself with a smooth hem.
- Do not stare at the material. Leave a long end of thread both at the beginning and at the end of the seam, so you can tie it by hand.
- You should find yourself with a visible line of stitches on both the front and the wrong side of the fabric.
Step 5. Iron the fabric
Once the hem is finished, arrange the chiffon on an ironing board and flatten it, ironing the fold as much as possible.
Done
Advice
- Since chiffon is a very light material, the thread for sewing it should be too.
- You could treat the chiffon with a fabric stabilizer spray before working. It will make the material stiffer and easier to cut and sew.
- Let the chiffon rest for at least 30 minutes after cutting it. This will allow the fibers to return to their original shape by the time you start sewing the material.
- Make sure that the sewing machine needle is new, sharp and very thin. Use a size 65/9 or 70/10 needle for best results.
- If you choose to hem by hand, remember to make rather short stitches. Try to make 12 to 20 stitches for 2.5cm.
- To prevent the chiffon from being sucked into the needle hole of the sewing machine, if possible use a straight surface.
- When you place the chiffon under the presser foot, grab the top and bobbin with your left hand and pull towards the back of the machine. Sew slowly, starting by pressing the foot control or turning the knob a few times. Following this procedure should prevent the material from being sucked into the bottom of the machine.
