If you have noticed that your evening dress is a little too long, don't worry. Just sew a hem at the end and the problem is solved. It will probably not be enough to make the classic hem, as it could be a bit too evident for an evening dress; in this case you will have to opt for a "rolled" or "invisible" hem, to give your dress an impeccable look.
Steps
Method 1 of 2: Rolled Hem
Step 1. Measure the hem and pin it in place
Have the owner wear the dress. Have someone help you fold the bottom edge of the dress to the desired length, so that the excess fabric is folded on the wrong side. Pin the hem along the entire circumference of the dress to check the length.
Remember to also have the person wear the shoes they will wear for the occasion. In fact, the height of the heel will affect that of the new hem
Step 2. Cut the hem
With a pair of dressmaker's scissors cut the excess fabric at the bottom of the dress. You should cut the fabric leaving about 6mm of extra fabric.
- In fact, the rolled hem will take about 3mm more fabric.
- If the old hem cannot be trimmed because it is stapled, mark the new hem with a fabric pencil and remove the pins before trimming the excess fabric.
Step 3. Remove the bottom seams
Use a seam ripper to remove about 2.5 cm of the side seams.
These seams are in fact too thick and you would not be able to roll them into the hem. For this reason it is essential to remove them before continuing with the work
Step 4. Roll up a small hem and sew it with needle and thread
Roll a small piece of fabric around the base of the dress with your fingers. Place the hem under the sewing machine and start passing the needle, making sure to keep it straight.
- The edge should measure approximately 3 mm. Roll the fabric inward so that the raw edge hem is well hidden in the back of the skirt.
- The rolled hem will almost consist of two smaller rolls: one to roll the uneven edge inward and the final roll that goes over it.
Step 5. Snap the foot into place
Keep the needle down and snap the special rolled hem foot onto the sewing machine.
If you don't have this special foot that snaps into place by itself, you'll need to screw it on before you start sewing
Step 6. Sew a few stitches
Perform about five stitches with the machine. They are enough to start the hem and hold it in place.
Step 7. Insert the raw edge into the foot
Push the raw edge into the front of the foot with your fingers.
- Make sure the needle is in the down position as you do this.
- This way the raw edge will automatically end inside the hem as you continue with the seam. As a result, you won't have to roll up the fabric by hand, as the machine will do it for you.
Step 8. Slowly sew the remaining hem
Continue sewing the entire edge of the dress. The presser foot should do most of the work on its own, but you will need to guide the fabric inside with your fingers to allow it to work properly.
- The raw edge of the fabric should be parallel to that of the foot on the left and the edge of the fold should be parallel to that of the foot on the right.
- If you work in sections, you will need to restart the process with each new section.
Step 9. Replace the bottom seams
Once the hem is done, you will need to pin the side seams removed earlier and sew them again with a straight stitch.
Step 10. Try on the dress
You must wear the dress to check the appearance of the new hem. With this step, the procedure is completed.
This is the recommended method for hemming a dress. Since most evening dresses are flared and not straight, the fabric is never the same size along the edges. A classic hem would tend to bundle too much fabric inside. By following this technique, however, you will tend to hem the dress using a smaller amount of fabric which will therefore not accumulate inside it
Method 2 of 2: Invisible Hem with a Sewing Machine
Step 1. Measure the new hem and remove the old one
Have the owner wear the dress and have her help measure the fabric at the base. Once the dress is off, cut off the excess fabric with dressmaker scissors. Leave about 2.5 cm of extra fabric at the base.
- Remember to also have the person wear the shoes they will wear for the occasion. In fact, the height of the heel will affect that of the new hem.
- It would be enough to simply measure the length of the hem with a tape measure and cut, but if you want to have more precise measurements, you should pin the hem all around the dress and mark it with a fabric pencil.
Step 2. Fold and press the raw edge
Fold the raw edge at the bottom of the dress inward, hiding it in the wrong side of the skirt. It is recommended to fold approximately 6 mm of fabric. Use an iron to impress the crease.
- You may need to turn the skirt inside out to fold the hem evenly.
- At this point, you will no longer need the pins.
Step 3. Fold and press the remaining fabric
Fold the remaining excess fabric about 1.8 cm in the same direction as the original fold. Iron the neatly folded edge with the hot iron.
- The raw edge should be well hidden inside the folded fabric. Make sure once again that the folded fabric remains hidden inside the dress.
- It is advisable to pin the new hem so that it stays firmly in place. Pin along the hem, making sure the top is facing the dress, away from the hem.
Step 4. Insert the blind hem foot into the sewing machine
Snap or screw the blind hem foot to the sewing machine. This special foot is essential to complete the hem.
Remember that your sewing machine must be set up to sew blind hem. Refer to the instructions given by the manufacturer of the machine
Step 5. Fold the hem in as you place it under the machine
Place the dress under the sewing machine on the wrong side. The folded hem should be positioned just outside the foot. Fold the hem, leaving a small flap sticking out to the side.
The pins will no longer be visible, but must be facing the machine, under the fabric
Step 6. Sew along the folded edge
Move the fabric under the foot and place the flange against the new folded edge. When the needle comes down, make sure the seam follows the protruding edge along the side of the fabric. Sew all the way around the hem.
Most of the stitches will fall along the edge of the hem or will be incorporated into the main fabric
Step 7. Try on the dress
When finished, open the hem and straighten the seam, gently smoothing out the hemmed stitches. Iron with a hot iron to smooth out any creases and try on the dress to make sure the new hem fits. The procedure is now complete.
- Remember that the invisible hem will hide more thread than the classic hem and for this reason it is the best choice for ball gowns and other important dresses.
- If the dress is too flared or if you have made a too loose hem, you will notice a slight bulge at the base of the dress, along the folded part.
Advice
If the evening dress is multi-layered, it may be a little more difficult to hem at home. You can try sewing one layer at a time, starting with the innermost one. Lift the layers you aren't working on with clips
Warnings
- Beware of mistakes: if you make a mistake you can't go back. In particular, if you make a hem that is too short. So make sure you take very accurate measurements.
- If in doubt, take the dress to a professional seamstress. Multi-layered dresses are the hardest to hem, not to mention delicate or slippery fabrics.
