If you have decided to keep a leopard gecko as a pet, there are a few things you need to know before you buy your new friend and start looking after him. Even the "complete kits" that are sold in pet shops are in need of improvement, because the inappropriate use of sand and lights is a fairly common mistake. Leopard geckos are reputed to be easy pets to care for, but be aware that they live a long time and require a protected environment and carefully controlled feeding.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Setting up the Terrarium
Step 1. Buy a 40-80 l capacity terrarium that has a lid with holes
It must be plastic or glass, and the lid is essential - look for the most suitable model at a pet store. You can also find it in aquarium stores, nurseries or at a reptile house. If you already have a home for your gecko, read this section to make sure it meets the necessary requirements.
An 80 l tank will be able to comfortably accommodate up to 3 specimens. It is advisable not to keep more than one male in each terrarium, as they may fight each other
Step 2. Line the container with a solid material and not with particulate matter
You have to cover the bottom of the terrarium with a special layer of “reptile stones”, some natural or artificial flat rocks. You can also opt for newspaper or kitchen paper, but be aware that you will need to replace it regularly as it will get dirty and break. Never use sand, sawdust or other materials that create debris and dust, as they cause serious health problems for the animal if swallowed.
- If you use stones or other heavy substrate, place a few layers of paper between them and the bottom of the terrarium to reduce the risk of breakage or chipping.
- Never use bits of cedar wood or other wood residues as they are toxic to these animals.
Step 3. Heat the reptile house
Use specific warmers or heating elements to be placed under the tank to keep the internal temperature between 23 and 26.7 ° C. Place a thermometer on each side of the tank to monitor the temperature, making sure it never drops below 21 ° C at night.
Step 4. Create a warmer area for the pet to bask
On one side of the tub, place a red or infrared light that keeps the place at 29-32 ° C. Leopard geckos need these warmer spots to properly digest food and regulate their temperature by moving from warmer to colder areas.
- Do not use a white light heating lamp, it could interfere with the gecko's sleep-wake rhythm.
- The temperature must never exceed 34.4 ºC.
Step 5. Provide the pet with an adequate light / dark cycle
Leopard geckos are crepuscular creatures, which means they are most active during sunset and sunrise, even though they have fully adapted to living in areas where there are 14 hours of daylight (or 12 hours in winter). The best way to give the reptile this rhythm is to mount a timed light on the terrarium (you can find this in pet stores). However, buy a model that can also be switched on and off manually. Unlike other reptiles, the leopard gecko prefers regular bulbs over UV-specific ones.
Use low wattage or high efficiency bulbs to avoid overheating the terrarium
Step 6. Add 3 shelters
Buy rock caves, logs, or other types of shelter from pet stores. Just make sure they are large enough for your pet to hide. Alternatively, you can create shelters yourself by finely sanding PVC (or other material) pipes, but avoid objects that have been outdoors or that have sharp edges. Place shelters in different places in the reptile house to meet the gecko's needs:
- Place one in the coldest spot, taking care to place damp napkins or other wet material under it. This is called the "wet zone" of the reptile house; the soil must be wet regularly to allow the animal to maintain the hydration of the skin.
- Place the second shelter in the coldest area, but keep it dry.
- Finally, place the third hiding spot in the hottest area and keep it dry.
Step 7. Get the gecko from a reliable source
Find one born on a certified farm, if possible, or at a shop that genuinely treats its animals and cares for them. Choose a specimen with bright, clean eyes, with a fat tail. If he is missing parts of his leg or has scabs around his mouth, know that he is sick.
If your gecko looks sick, don't allow it to reproduce. It will generate puny specimens
Part 2 of 3: Nutrition and Routine Care
Step 1. Provide a shallow dish filled with water
A large and low bowl would be better, so that the animal can drink and bathe without risk of drowning. Keep it in the cool area of the reptile house and fill it with water as often as needed, usually every other day.
Step 2. Keep live insects in a separate container
Crickets are the most common food for the gecko, but you can also use live cockroaches (available from the pet store). Maggots and maggots are good alternatives, but you should use them as an occasional supplement to vary your meals and not as a primary food source. Since leopard geckos rarely eat dead animals, you'll need a plastic container with holes in the lid to store and keep the insects alive. You can buy food as you need it from pet stores, or store it in large containers for the insects to reproduce.
- For insects to be appetizing and safe for the gecko, they should be no larger than its head.
- If you have decided to take larvae for short-term consumption, place them in the refrigerator. If, on the other hand, you have decided to breed them, leave them at room temperature and some will turn into adult specimens.
Step 3. Add vitamins to the insects
Buy reptile-specific calcium powders and vitamin D. Before you give the bugs to your gecko, put them in a plastic bag with some of these powders and shake them to completely cover them. Feed them immediately, as described below.
Step 4. Enter more nutrients (optional)
Another effective way to feed the gecko is to "stuff" the insects with good food. For this purpose, you can find special formulas on the market, or just put a lot of fruit, oats and vegetables in the insect container in the 12-24 hours preceding the reptile's meal. If you want to try this technique, apply it in conjunction with the addition of powdered vitamins and not as a substitute.
Step 5. Feed the gecko every 2-3 days
Puppies under four months need to eat every day, but adult puppies need only one meal every 48-72 hours. In general, you need to give your pet a quantity of food that can be consumed in 10-15 minutes (approximately 4-6 crickets). Remove any insects it hasn't eaten from the terrarium after 15-20 minutes as they may attack the gecko.
If your specimen is particularly slow or seems too fat, read the next section of the article, dedicated to health issues
Step 6. Clean the reptile house regularly
Remove droppings, dead insects and all other debris to reduce the risk of disease and attract dangerous pests. Wash the entire reptile house once a week with soap and water, rinse it thoroughly before putting the animal back inside. Change the substrate when it starts to smell, usually every 6 months.
If you have decided to use flat stones or another similar substrate, remove them from the reptile house and wash the floor underneath when you smell bad smells
Part 3 of 3: Keeping the Gecko Healthy and Safe
Step 1. Learn how to handle the leopard gecko safely
Wash your hands with soap and water before touching the reptile to avoid spreading disease. Hold the animal in your hand and lift it gently to ensure adequate support. Never take it by the tail, as it will come off as an innate reaction to danger.
- If the tail falls off, discard it and clean the reptile house daily to prevent the open wound from becoming infected, to allow it to heal and encourage the growth of a new tail.
- Do not smoke in the same room as the gecko, especially while holding it.
Step 2. Understand the wetsuit
Leopard geckos shed their skin once a month, although exact times vary with age. The skin turns gray or white a day or two before the actual moult begins. When the old skin peels off completely, the gecko usually eats it - it's not a dangerous behavior and there's nothing to worry about. If the old skin sticks in places, try steaming it with water to remove it.
If the skin gets stuck between the toes, place the animal in a shallow dish containing warm water and lightly tap the skin with a cotton ball. If you don't, the gecko may lose a finger
Step 3. Check for signs of dehydration
You need to make sure that the "wet shelter" is always wet, as indicated in the previous section, so that adult specimens can regulate skin hydration. However, if you notice your gecko has sunken eyes, a slow moult (with white skin sticking to the new one), try vaping it with a spray bottle full of water. Do it very gently, once every 2-3 days.
Leopard geckos under one month of age may "scream" when moistened, but know that you are not doing them any pain or harm
Step 4. Protect the pet from too humid conditions
Consider purchasing a hygrometer if you believe the terrarium is too humid. If it is above 40% humidity, aim a fan at the reptile house or replace the water dish with a smaller one.
Step 5. Help those who eat particularly slowly
If your pet seems almost indifferent to food or feeds very slowly, always leave him a saucer with some larvae and maggots, as well as feed him crickets and other insects. Remove crickets and other large insects that have not been eaten from the reptile house as they could attack and injure the gecko.
Step 6. If the gecko is obese, reduce the rations
Leopard geckos accumulate fat in their tails, so they should have a large, plump tail. However, if you feel that it is much larger than the rest of your body or the fat deposits extend to your limbs, reduce your calorie intake with each meal.
Step 7. Take the gecko to the vet if you have any other problems
Seek urgent medical attention if the specimen does not respond to your touch or food, if you notice seizures, tail weight loss, or other serious health problems. Try to contact a veterinarian within 24 hours if the gecko has diarrhea, constipation, scales appear on the body, or if the toes and tail show dark spots on the tips. Behavioral changes regarding food and sleep are natural and develop with age, but it's always best to call a veterinarian or reptile expert.
Advice
- If well cared for, the leopard gecko can live 15-20 years and sometimes even up to 30. You need to be sure you can take care of it for all this time.
- No plants are needed in the terrarium, but they can be decorative elements and provide shelter for the animal. Always do research online or ask a reptile expert to avoid putting plants that are toxic to your gecko.
- The leopard gecko is a crepuscular animal, which means it is most active at dusk and dawn. It is not nocturnal like most other geckos.
- As mentioned earlier, sand is dangerous, especially for young specimens. If when you buy your adult gecko you notice that there is sand in the reptile house, you can decrease the risk of injury by mixing it with mulch.
- Feed the gecko larvae and / or cagnotti 2-3 times a week; if you give them more often, you risk not being able to digest them properly.
Warnings
- Make sure you remove any insects it hasn't eaten from the terrarium. They could attack him.
- Loud noises are stressful for geckos.
- No heating rocks should be placed in the terrarium; they can burn the gecko.
