The leopard gecko, or leopard gecko, is a nocturnal animal, in fact it spends most of the day in its cage. It is a very popular reptile as a pet because it is easy to touch, has a distinct character and is at home in even a small terrarium. Its natural habitat is the desert landscape of Afghanistan, western India, Pakistan, Iraq and Iran, an environment characterized by rocks, hard grass and shrubs. When you want to create a suitable habitat for this creature, you need to mimic the natural one as much as possible.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Choosing a Terrarium
Step 1. Get a long, wide terrarium
This container is a wooden container with a glass wall that allows you to save on electricity consumption.
The leopard gecko lives on the ground, rarely climbs, but you should use a glass container so that it cannot cling to the walls; do not use iron or wire mesh cages, because they do not retain heat well and the gecko could escape, in addition to the fact that it could injure itself if its legs or fingers get stuck in the mesh
Step 2. The leopard gecko is not a very active reptile, but it does need a fairly large space in which to move
However, if you have a young specimen, do not get a terrarium that is too large, because when it is in too large environments it has difficulty finding a source of heat and a place to hide. Adult geckos don't need limited space, but larger terrariums need to have plenty of hiding places. An approximately 80-liter terrarium is recommended for an adult specimen, while a 40-liter terrarium will suffice for a young leopard gecko.
A single reptile needs a container with a capacity of at least 40 liters (but 80 liters would be ideal); if you have two specimens, get one of 80 liters, while if you have opted for three animals, you should get one of 120 liters. You can keep up to three birds in the same cage, but make sure they are the same size and there is only one male. You can only keep females of the same size together, but even then they might fight; if you notice signs of aggression, get a second container
Step 3. Cover the cage with a wire mesh or wire cover
Even if the gecko is unable to climb glass walls, you should always cover the terrarium to keep insects, other animals, or even children away. You can also install a sliding door on the front which comes in handy when taming the animal.
Do not use lids made of plastic, glass or other solid material, as they can raise the internal temperature to dangerous levels
Part 2 of 3: Install the Heater and Lighting
Step 1. Maintain different temperatures in the cage
Make one side of the terrarium warm and the other cold, so the animal can regulate its own temperature by moving from one to the other. Buy a thermometer; the best for this purpose are the digital ones with probe or infrared.
- Use a heater to put under the cage on the warm side. It should take up about 1/3 of the bottom surface and you should only use a heat lamp if this tool doesn't produce enough heat. The leopard gecko is not a reptile that likes to bask in the sun, but it needs its abdomen to stay warm to digest food; you should never insert heating rocks or UVB lamps because the gecko is especially active at dawn and dusk; however, some UV rays can be beneficial, as they do not carry the risk of vitamin D3 overdose, as can happen when gecko is given this substance through supplements. The lamp is only needed if there are no windows in the room.
- During the day, the cool side of the terrarium should maintain a temperature of 26 ° C, while the warm side of around 32 ° C.
- During the night, however, a temperature of 26 ° C should be guaranteed throughout the terrarium.
Part 3 of 3: Add the Substrate and Decorations
Step 1. Use a specific substrate for reptiles or tiles with surface finishes
This material serves to cover the floor of the terrarium on which the gecko walks; you never have to use sand. The natural habitat of this creature is made up of stones and hard earth, while the sand can cause a gastrointestinal obstruction.
- Flat tiles and stones are inexpensive, conduct heat well, look great, are easy to clean, and do not put your little reptile's health at risk. You should insert a thin layer of sand or organic soil under and between the tiles, which should be of a consistency that allows the gecko to walk easily. You can get these materials at the pet store; tiles and stones are a permanent substrate that you don't have to change.
- An alternative substrate can instead be made up of newsprint, food paper or paper for lining the shelves. The paper one is easy to manage and can be replaced without difficulty; in this way, the cleaning of the container is very fast and you can proceed as needed by simply replacing the substrate. Be aware, however, that insects could crawl under it.
- Some people and vets recommend using a specific reptile mat, which is pleasing to the eye, poses no risk to the gecko and is available at pet stores; However, keep in mind that the animal's paws and teeth could get stuck there, as well as the fact that insects can hide under this surface.
Step 2. Create a hot and a cold hiding place
A shelter is a key detail in the environment in which the gecko lives; this creature uses its hiding place as a refuge from light, heat and anything else that scares it, for example other pets or people who come to the terrarium. Make sure that this "nest" is long enough so that the reptile can burrow in comfortably. You can make some yourself using Tupperware-type containers or by purchasing some models that look like natural stones at pet stores. For maximum comfort, get one hot and one cold; avoid models that lean against the walls of the cage because they do not hide the gecko and do not serve that purpose.
- Place one in the warm area of the terrarium for the gecko to use to digest food and keep warm when cold.
- Put the other on the cold side for the little reptile to take refuge to regulate its body temperature when it is too hot and needs to cool off.
Step 3. Prepare a warm, humid hiding place
This "turkish bath" helps the gecko to balance the body temperature and enjoy more humidity inside the terrarium. This shelter is very useful during moulting; line it with damp paper towels, organic soil, or peat.
- You can make your own using a small plastic container the size of toast.
- Make sure to keep the substrate or moss constantly moist by spraying water with a spray bottle, but avoid overdoing it.
- Alternatively, you can purchase ready-made wet hiding places at pet stores.
Step 4. Place the water and food bowl inside the cage
Look for a two-compartment model on the market in which to put both water and food. Food is only necessary if you plan to offer the gecko an ordinary diet based on worms; instead fill the other one whenever water is low or dirty. For this purpose, you can use bottled water, tap water left to stand for 24 hours, or water treated with reptile-safe disinfectant products (available at pet stores).
Do not take a bowl that is too deep, as the gecko may have difficulty accessing it if there is too much water, with the risk of drowning; make sure the container is large enough for him to bathe
Step 5. Add some plants, rocks or pieces of trunk
You can use real or artificial plants to give the little creature more security and other places to hide, as well as allow it to get distracted and not get bored; however, if you opt for real plants, make sure they are non-toxic. They may look more attractive, but require a lot more care and can increase the humidity levels in the cage.
- You can also add rocks or twigs and logs so the gecko can climb or perch a bit; Always clean them to remove any dirt and bacteria before placing them in the terrarium. You should also round off the edges or sharp edges of the rocks so the animal cannot get injured.
- Also remove the bark from the branches to remove any bacteria or parasites. You can put the twigs or wood in a low temperature oven for 20-30 minutes to kill the pathogens before placing the decorations in the cage; also consider putting some paper towels in the "toilet" area and changing them after each use.
