Most people prefer to send films to a studio to develop, but with the right tools, you can develop film at home. Black and white film often develops differently than color film, but there are some chemical development kits that can be used to develop C-41 compatible negatives of both varieties. If you are interested in learning how to develop your own film, read on.
Steps
Part 1 of 5: Prepare the Chemicals
Step 1. Buy a photo development kit
There are some development kits that can be used to develop both color and black and white C-41 negatives. C-41 is a common consumer film used in 35mm machines, so these development kits are the most practical solution for the average consumer.
Note, however, that if you are not using compatible C-41 film, you should look for a specific kit for your film type. The instructions for different development kits and the chemicals used may differ from those included here
Step 2. Mix the developer powder with warm water
Pour 1600ml of hot water into a clean glass or plastic container. Stir the developer powder into it until it dissolves. Add enough water to add up to 2 liters.
- The water temperature should be around 43.5 ° C. Since it cools down for use, it shouldn't drop below 37.8 ° C.
- Use distilled water rather than tap water whenever possible.
- Do not mix chemicals in metal containers.
Step 3. Mix the blix packets with water
Pour another 1600ml of hot water into a second clean glass or plastic container. Mix the "blix" or "bleach-fix" in the water and add enough water to reach 2000ml.
- The blix is also known as "bleach-fix". If there are multiple blix packages, add them in alphabetical order: "A" and then "B".
- The water temperature should be around 43.5 ° C. It will cool down as it stays in place, but you shouldn't allow it to drop below 37.8 ° C.
- Use distilled water and don't mix chemicals in metal containers.
Step 4. Mix the stabilizer packet with the water
Mix the contents of the "stabilizer" powder into 2 liters of fresh water and mix thoroughly.
Use distilled water at room temperature. There is no need for a precise temperature
Part 2 of 5: Prepare the Tank
Step 1. Wash your tank with warm water
Separate the roll into its different parts: the body, the central column, the spiral, the lid and the cap. Rinse your body with warm water and dry thoroughly with a clean cloth.
- If there are chemical stains, remove the stain with warm water and a clean cloth.
- Reposition the center column when done. The column is what makes it possible for the tank to remain dark or "light-proof" even when you add chemicals.
Step 2. Adjust the spiral to accommodate the film
The standard size setting should be fine for 35mm camera film, but if not, you can change the size until it is compatible with the film.
- Separate the spiral into two distinct pieces. One piece has a long channel, while the other has a tab that fits into this channel at various points.
- The first slot should be for 35mm film. The second is usually for the 127 format, and the last for the 120 format. Snap the tab into the first channel, snapping it into place.
Part 3 of 5: Load the Film
Step 1. Turn off the lights
Holding the spiral, turn off the lights in the room you are in. Give your eyes time to adjust to the dark before continuing.
Exposing the film to light will ruin it, so you have to keep the lights off while loading the film into the tank
Step 2. Remove the film from the roll
Use a bottle opener to open the roll, assuming the bottom of the roll is the cap.
- After removing the film, always handle it by the edges rather than the center.
- Cut off the guide portion at the beginning of the film with clean scissors and set it aside.
Step 3. Load the film onto the spiral
Load the cut end of the film into the guides inside the spiral. Make sure the first 3-5 cm of film is inserted into the spiral.
- Twist the spiral back and forth to insert the rest of the film. The rolls underneath the guides will grip the film and pull it in. Continue until the foil is fully wrapped around the spiral.
- Cut the last piece of film attached to the roll.
Step 4. Place the spiral back in the central column of the tank
Insert the spiral into the center column and screw the lid tightly.
Once done, you can turn the lights back on. The central column should give sufficient protection against the light
Part 4 of 5: Developing the Film
Step 1. Pre-wet the film
Pour pure distilled water into the tank and let it sit for 60 seconds before emptying it.
- The water that comes out will likely be a cloudy green color.
- The water temperature should be around 38.9 ° C.
Step 2. Develop the film
Pour the developer solution into the tank and leave on for 3 and a half minutes before emptying it. The film should be completely submerged, and you should shake the tank for 10 seconds every 30 seconds during this step.
Make sure the developer solution has a temperature of around 38.9 ° C
Step 3. Use the blix
Pour the blix solution into the tank and leave on for 6 and a half minutes. Shake the tank for 10 seconds every 30 seconds. Empty it when you're done.
- The temperature of the blix should oscillate between 35 and 40, 6 ° C.
- The phase of light-sensitive development ends with the conclusion of this phase. You can work without a lid as soon as you finish.
Step 4. Wash the film
Remove the coil from the tank and wash it under clean running water for 3 minutes to wash away the chemicals.
The water temperature should oscillate between 35 and 40, 6 ° C
Step 5. Use the stabilizer
Put the spiral back into the tank. Pour in the stabilizer and shake the tank for 15 seconds. Leave the film in place in the stabilizer for between 30 and 60 seconds.
The solution should be at room temperature
Step 6. Dry the film
The film will have to develop for a time between 4 and 8 hours.
- Remove the spiral from the tank once more and separate it to open it.
- Pinch one end of the roll and remove the film, letting it unwind.
- Hang the film in a dry, dust-free place, such as a shower stall. Use film clips.
Part 5 of 5: Other Specifications
Step 1. Use a development system designed to work with black and white film only
Much of the process is similar to the one described, but the chemicals you will need include a developer, setter, fixer, and hypo-cleaning agent. Water temperatures and shutter speeds also vary.
Step 2. Use a development system designed to work with color film only
These kits require an even more similar technique to that used here, but will not allow you to develop black and white film.
Step 3. Develop black and white film with coffee and baking soda mixture
Coffee and bicarbonate are dissolved in hot water and used instead of a chemical solution for development.
Step 4. Create your own darkroom to work in
While not entirely necessary, creating a darkroom where you can work will make it easier to organize and manage your development tools.
- It's a good idea to create a darkroom if you are serious about photography.
- Choose a windowless room to base your darkroom. Otherwise, the light could still filter in from outside.
Step 5. Learn more about cleaning negatives
Chemical stains ruin your photos if you leave the chemicals on your negatives for too long. Knowing how to clean them is essential to developing your photos well.
It is also a good idea to know how to clean old negatives, as well as newly developed ones
Step 6. Learn how to access digital photos
Of course, if your photos are taken with a digital camera, there is no film to develop. If you have a digital camera, be sure to learn how to transfer and print the photos you take.
Warnings
- Always follow the instructions on your development kit, even if they are different from those listed here.
- Use safety glasses and rubber gloves while touching chemicals. You should also wear an apron, lab coat, or other protective clothing.
