After learning how to sew, it's a natural step to make a garment using a pattern. Being able to sew based on a pattern will give you the ability to make linens, costumes, home decor, toys, and other items that can be sewn. This article teaches you how to read and use a pattern.
Steps
Method 1 of 5: Part 1: Choose the Size
Step 1. Select the right size for the person who will be wearing the garment
If it's for you, have a friend take the measurements first of all. Remember, it does not have to be the same size as the clothes you usually buy, as the measurements of the pattern can differ significantly from those of the “commercial” clothes. Look at the back of the pattern envelope to determine your size according to the "finished" measurements that are indicated.
Most patterns follow the international sizing code
Step 2. Be careful with multi-size patterns
Some patterns are multi-size. This means that they are suitable for a very wide range of sizes, although it is usually indicated. You will have to look on the pattern itself to understand where to cut according to the reference size.
Step 3. Leave room for changes
All patterns contain a seam allowance, called "fit" or "fitting", assuming they are designed for fabrics that need this seam allowance. It is not considered in knitted garments, as they already have their own natural elasticity. Read the instructions on the pattern to find out what the seam allowance is or look directly at the pattern for "finished" measurements or something like that.
- Compare the difference between your finished measurements and your body measurements to find out the seam allowance.
- If you don't want to follow the included seam allowance, or want it wider or narrower, you'll have to calculate it yourself.
- This margin will determine the final size of the garment, and indicate whether it will be soft or snug. Some companies have a standard margin that matches the descriptions (soft, snug or fitting etc.)
- If you are a beginner it is best to ignore these things, because you are not ready to modify the patterns. If you are unsure, leave the seam allowance and take the finished garment to a tailor.
Method 2 of 5: Part 2: Read the Pattern
Step 1. Read the instructions
Each pattern has detailed instructions on a separate sheet (guide) and the pattern sheet itself. Always read the instructions before you start sewing so you know what to expect.
The instructions include how to cut the pattern, how to pack the dress or object, the best way to choose the size, etc
Step 2. Check the seam allowances
Check the instructions to find out if the pattern has seam allowances or not. If it doesn't, you'll need to cut the fabric with the seam allowances ahead. They are usually not included.
Step 3. Pay attention to the grain arrow
It is a straight line with an arrow at one end or both. This arrow tells you which direction the pattern piece should be placed on the fabric weave (which direction the fabric weave should go). For stretch fabrics, it may indicate the direction with the most stretch.
The weave of the fabric has the same direction as the selvedges (the white limit where the pattern ends). Locate the selvedges to determine the direction lines or the texture of the fabric
Step 4. Look for notches
They are triangular symbols on the cutting lines. Use them to match the panels precisely, for example a sleeve with the armhole. There can be single, double and triple brands. Professionals will make micro cuts on the seam allowance at the height of the marks, but beginners should cut out the mirrored triangles behind the seam line, in order to align the pieces of the pattern.
Usually a single brand indicates the front of a garment and a double one the back. But it is not universal
Step 5. Look for the dots
These headbands show you where to add darts, zippers, pockets or where to gather the fabric, although they usually indicate where you need to place the basting to align two pieces of fabric. Refer to the pattern instructions if you are unsure.
- If there are no special instructions and you see two identical circles at the ends of the pattern, they probably match.
- The lines for the hinges are usually indicated by a zigzag line.
Step 6. Look for the markings for the buttons
The position of the buttons is usually indicated by an X, while the buttonholes are indicated by round brackets (the same you saw in the expressions at school) that show the actual size of the buttonhole itself.
Step 7. Look for the stretch and shorten lines
They are parallel lines, usually very close together, which show you where you can increase or decrease the size of the pattern to improve the fit. Always read the pattern instructions to understand how to handle them, as they usually change according to the pattern.
Step 8. Use the cutting lines
This line is thick, solid and on the outside of the pattern. Follow it to cut out. Sometimes it won't be continuous and you will see a lot of lines. These indicate the different sizes that can be packaged, following a specific one. Sometimes the size is indicated near the line, sometimes in the instructions.
Step 9. Check the sewing lines
Sometimes this dashed or dotted line is included to indicate where the seam goes. Usually there is not because it is a fact that the seam must be done 15mm inside the cutting line, so if you don't see it, don't panic.
Step 10. Sew the darts
If you see a large triangle or diamond on the pattern, it usually indicates a pleat. The darts shape a single piece of fabric to make it adhere to a curved line.
Step 11. Watch out for fold lines
These lines, usually clearly indicated with special hatching or brackets, indicate where a piece of fabric should be folded, not cut. Be careful not to cut along this line.
Method 3 of 5: Part 3: Using the Pattern
Step 1. Cut out the parts of the pattern
Find each piece of the pattern you will need and cut it out. You will cut out the fabric using the solid line of the pattern as a guide.
- Use a pair of pattern-making scissors. Also buy another 8 '' pair of scissors to cut out the fabric. Patterns tend to ruin the thread of the scissors and sharp scissors are needed to cut fabrics easily.
- If you're wrong and make a cut where you shouldn't, try to put it back as well as possible. The important thing is that the shape is not compromised and that you can still read the symbols.
- You can transfer the cut out pattern onto card stock if you want it to be stronger.
Step 2. Place the pattern on the fabric following the instructions
The instructions will guide you in arranging each piece of the pattern in the right place.
- The positioning can vary according to the width you have chosen or if the fabric is with the "pile" or not. The term "hair" refers to the irregularity of a print or velvet, for example (that is, could the print be cropped upside down by mistake?)
- Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric with pins following the instructions. They are usually stapled using a 15mm seam allowance. However, double check the margin on the pattern as not everyone uses the canonical 15mm margin. You can also use pattern weights if you don't want to damage thin or delicate fabric with pins.
- You will now have half of the garment. Let a friend try it and get help to make any changes in length or width.
Step 3. Mark and cut the pattern
Mark the pattern using tailor's chalk or glossy paper and tracing wheel. You can also make paper tape labels on the back of each piece of the pattern so you don't get confused when you start sewing and risk not knowing which piece you are looking at.
Method 4 of 5: Part 4: Other Considerations
Step 1. Choose a simple pattern for your first sewing job
The less complicated it is, the easier it will be to learn how to use a pattern. Always read the description on the pattern packaging to decide if you are interested in it or not; contains instructions on the object, and tips on how to wear it. In addition, on the back of the package there will also be details on the item of clothing or the object you are going to sew, in order to guide you in fit and style.
Step 2. Make sure you like the garment
On the pattern there should be an image of the finished garment. Most include a photo of the finished dress on the front of the pattern, with illustrations on the back. If there are variations such as different sleeve lengths, styles, or collars there will be images for reference. When you want to get an idea of what the finished garment will look like, refer to the photos rather than the drawings, they are more realistic.
Step 3. Check the difficulty level of the pattern
There should be a difficulty level indicator on the package. Some manufacturers give an indication of feasibility ranging from beginner to advanced. Trust this assessment and don't take the extra step of the leg.
Step 4. Avoid lined clothing
Do not try on anything that needs to be lined with another fabric; it is too advanced for a beginner. Start with simple items, like flared skirts or basic tops, and work on things like that until you feel more confident in your abilities.
Step 5. Choose the required fabric and everything you need
On the back of the pattern, you will be shown the fabric and the necessary to complete the project. You will notice that some patterns recommend one category of fabrics, and advise against another. This will give you the freedom to buy the fabric of your choice or within your budget, and will also warn you that you may have a bad experience if you use one of the fabrics not recommended for the pattern in question!
The amount of fabric will also be indicated; it is important because it gives you an indication of the cost in case you have to buy it, or it will let you know if you have enough at home
Step 6. Make sure you know the basics of sewing
There are some extra things to know to complete the pattern, such as zippers, buttons, decorations etc. the size, length and number of these notions is usually clearly expressed.
Step 7. Use the fabric wisely
Once you become familiar with the patterns, you will find smarter ways to place them on the fabric and cut it out. You can save a lot of money this way, also because patterns are usually very cheap. Don't worry about this at first, you don't have the skills to judge where to cut.
Method 5 of 5: Extra Help
Step 1. Learn to use a sewing machine
It will be easier and often essential to use a sewing machine to make certain patterns.
Step 2. Learn to hand sew
Hand sewing is also a useful skill and can simplify the sewing of certain patterns or parts of them, if you put it into practice.
Step 3. Learn to sew buttonholes
Learning to sew buttonholes is a very useful skill.
Step 4. Make a nice seam
Professional sewing is a fundamental skill.
Step 5. Change your outfits
Learning to modify pre-made patterns and dresses may come in handy over time.
Advice
- Don't buy expensive fabric to sew your first pattern, as you may not be able to correct mistakes.
- Determine the right and wrong sides of the fabric. The reverse is what goes on the skin once the garment is finished. Use a pin to mark the wrong side of the fabric.
- "After cutting out the pattern pieces, iron them with a dry iron to remove wrinkles or creases on the paper. ALWAYS."
- Buy a good sewing manual. Old or vintage publications are also fine; maybe you have inherited one that has stood the test of time unscathed. If necessary, put a metric table in older books in case you need to quickly update the old measures.
- Double check measurements, seam allowances and needle type for the fabric. Not all sewing machine needles are the same.
- Pattern makers have very simple designs, you can find them by searching Google for "beginner pattern". You can also find them in any haberdashery and on the websites of the major manufacturers.
Warnings
- Cats "love" to play (read: tear apart) pattern strips. You are warned!
- Note: if you have small children, you will need to keep an eye on pins and scissors like a hawk.
