Do you have a guinea pig that looks bored, sad or depressed? This pet can exhibit symptoms similar to depression, including starvation and loss of appetite, if it does not receive sufficient attention and stimulation; in fact, it is essential to ensure an interesting and lively life for the small rodent.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Providing Basic Comfort
Step 1. Make sure the guinea pig is healthy
Lethargy and inactivity, as well as refusal to eat or drink, could indicate illness. You must therefore be sure that the pet is simply bored or a little depressed - a fact that can be remedied by increasing stimuli and socialization - and that it is not some serious illness.
- For example, lethargy often occurs in conjunction with misaligned teeth, infections and obesity, all of which can be dangerous for this small rodent.
- You should also check for signs of other illnesses, such as drooling, runny stools, coarse hair, sneezing, and frequent coughing. If you notice any of these symptoms, you should consult a veterinarian with experience in these types of animals. If, on the other hand, you don't see these additional signs of discomfort, you should take the following steps to make your little friend's life happier and more stimulating.
Step 2. Make sure the cage is wide enough
Experts have found that most guinea pig cages on the market are too small. These are animals that like to move a lot; the happiest specimens are those who live in a large space where they can run, move and play. At a minimum, domestic guinea pigs need a cage with a base of 0.75 sq m, but ideally it should be wider. If you have only one specimen, get a container measuring approximately 75 x 90 cm; if you have two, the cage should be at least 75 x 130 cm.
In general, the space at his disposal should always be adequate to allow him to carry out physical activity, to contain a food bowl, a tunnel or a box - which he can use to hide - and a space where he can carry out his physiological needs
Step 3. Make sure the cage is placed in an ideal location
The guinea pig likes to be close to other living beings; therefore consider placing his home in the living room or other rooms frequented by family members, where the rodent can be seen and heard. However, keep in mind that he has very sensitive ears and does not like loud noises; therefore, leave the cage away from the stereo system, television and any other equipment that emits loud sounds.
You should also place the cage in an area that is neither too hot nor too cold; the domestic guinea pig does not like extreme temperatures, which moreover could make it sick. Identify an area with around 18-24 ° C and that is away from any source of heat or drafts
Step 4. Organize the cage appropriately
Try to keep the food bowl, water bottle, different shelters and toys away from the walls so that the little rodent has plenty of room to move and play. Place all the accessories in the central area of the container, to create a perimeter free from any obstacle all around the walls.
Change the various toys and accessories frequently, as well as move them around the cage, to keep the guinea pig's interest always active
Step 5. Feed the small rodent properly
Make sure he eats a well-balanced and nutritious diet by providing him with plenty of hay. Fresh hay provides the necessary fiber for his digestive system and allows him to file his teeth so that they stay healthy. The domestic guinea pig can run, play inside and at the same time eat it, so as to remain healthy and happy. It is vital to provide her with an unlimited source of hay, as pelleted food does not contain enough fiber to stimulate proper functioning of her digestive tract.
- In addition to the hay, make sure you also feed the pet around 20g of pelleted food and 150g of vegetables per day. Vegetables are an essential source of vitamin C for this small rodent; good options are leafy greens, such as kale, spinach, and romaine lettuce.
- Make sure you vary your foods to make meal times more stimulating. Do several experiments to figure out what they like best; other possible alternatives are peppers, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cucumbers, peas and tomatoes.
- It supplements its diet with fruit: the guinea pig loves it! Choose fruits rich in vitamin C, such as cantaloupe, strawberries, and kiwifruit; but remember to give it only as a special treat no more than a few times a week, because it contains a lot of sugar.
- Make mealtime fun! You can cut your favorite vegetables and string them all together with a string to create a kind of kebab to hang on one side of the cage; you can also buy a small metal skewer specifically for kebabs at pet stores.
- Keep food fresh. Constantly check the cage and remove any food residue that has not been eaten, spoiled or spoiled. Generally, avoid giving them wilted or rotten vegetables. do not give him any food that you would not eat either.
Step 6. Provide a soft substrate
The paws of the guinea pig are very delicate, so it is important that the surface is soft and abundant. Provide a layer of about 5-7cm of grass material, so that there is enough padding and at the same time allows for good absorption. The ideal material for this is hay, as it is warm and absorbent; make sure it is soft and of high quality; avoid straw if possible, because it can hurt the eyes of the small rodent.
- Change the substrate every time it becomes moist or soaked. Clean it every day by removing wet areas and replacing them with new material. Wet hay can cause health problems, as well as guinea pigs finding it somewhat unpleasant. Generally, this animal likes clean, dry substrate and feels more comfortable in a cage that offers such comfort.
- Do not use cedar or pine shavings as a substrate, even if they are widely available in pet stores; these substances contain phenols, which are harmful to the domestic guinea pig.
Step 7. Clean the cage regularly
Usually, it should be cleaned quickly every day (removing traces of dirt) and washed thoroughly once a week instead.
- At the end of the day, remove any leftover food and droppings from the cage.
- At least once a week, replace and / or clean the substrate and remove any elements present, so that you can thoroughly scrub the container with hot water. Since guinea pigs love dry surfaces, make sure there is no more moisture before putting the substrate back on.
Part 2 of 3: Entertaining the Guinea Pig
Step 1. Give him "toys"
Remember that safety must be your first concern and that many toys on the market can break, leaving fragments that are dangerous for the small rodent, which could choke him. You will have to make several attempts to find the toys he likes best, as he won't always find the same thing fun. As a general rule, the simpler the toy, the better.
- Only place items large enough in the cage that cannot be swallowed, to avoid the risk of suffocation.
- Wooden bricks or cylinders are great choices, because the guinea pig likes to chew them and should do it; in fact, his teeth never stop growing and by gnawing on these toys he can keep them at a comfortable length. When buying any wooden game, make sure it is untreated and unpainted.
- A good toy to put in the cage is a tunnel (or even more than one). This little rodent likes to run through the tunnels and even sleep inside. You can purchase a tube or tunnel at major pet stores, but you can also easily make one at home using a cylindrical, hollow food container. Make sure you remove the base, the plastic opening and the metal edges, as well as the labels.
Step 2. Avoid certain toys
Do not give your pet the exercise ball or wheel, as they can cause severe injuries to their legs, back or fingers. stick to the items described above.
Even the balls or metal racks that hay usually put in can be very dangerous, because the small rodent can get stuck with its head between the meshes of the net
Step 3. Create shelters for him to hide in
This little rodent can be very shy and likes to hide under objects for some privacy. The hiding places and tunnels make him feel safe, secure and comfortable; even in this case, these are items that you can buy in major pet stores or that you can make at home without spending too much.
- Generally speaking, you should secure at least one wooden structure inside the cage for your little friend, regardless of whether it is a house or a tunnel. This type of element represents something the animal can chew on, helping it to keep its teeth the correct and safe length.
- If you have more than one specimen, you should place one more shelter in the cage than the number of guinea pigs present; for example, if you have three guinea pigs, you should have four hiding places. Having an apparently "neutral" house, which is not specifically designated for a single specimen, allows you to keep the peace in the group.
- To make a small craft structure where the little rodent can hide, you can use an old untreated or painted shoe box. Your furry friend appreciates this type of hiding place, which he can chew safely; alternatively, you can use a paper bag to put on one side to create a sort of "cave" in which you can take refuge. To make it even more fun, you can fill the bag with hay to offer the guinea pig a game and food at the same time.
- You can also make a fabric tent under which the little rodent can hide. Cut or fold an old towel (be sure to remove any loose labels or threads) and use it to drape a corner of the cage. You can wrap the towel around the wire mesh or use safety pins or some other hook to hold it in place. This is a great alternative for creating a small hiding place, as it is a material that can be washed and reused as needed.
Step 4. Allow him to get out of the cage
Even if his home is large and spacious - especially if it isn't - you need to allow the pet to spend some free time each day. Allow him to do extra physical activity, allowing him to run in a small room or other confined space; this moment should be part of the guinea pig's daily routine for it to be healthy and happy.
- Just be sure to leave it in rooms with no small openings through which it can escape or get lost; also avoid areas where there are furniture or appliances where the rodent can get stuck, such as sofas, ovens or refrigerators.
- Also be sure to supervise him, to prevent him from chewing on everything around him, including dangerous objects such as wires and electrical cables. Check that no cables are connected to the sockets and that the guinea pig cannot access them when spending time in the wild.
- Don't let them spend time away from home, as they can easily get lost or become prey to larger animals.
Part 3 of 3: Socializing the Guinea Pig
Step 1. Purchase another copy
Guinea pigs are social animals that live in groups and are happier in the company of others like them. By catching another rodent (or even more than one) you will immediately notice benefits, including increased activity and exercise levels.
- In some countries it is even illegal to buy a single animal; it is always necessary to buy them in pairs.
- If you take an additional guinea pig, make sure it is the same sex as the one in your possession or that he has been neutered or sterilized, if he were of the opposite sex. This is an important detail, because if a male and a female live together in the same cage, there are very many chances that they will mate and that a dangerous pregnancy for the mother will be established.
- Although guinea pigs live in small groups in the wild, avoid putting more than two together. They are territorial animals, especially when they live in confined spaces.
Step 2. Interact with your pet regularly and try to bond
Domestic guinea pigs love to relate to humans, as well as to other specimens. Socialization is an important process in keeping the animal happy and healthy; talk to him, cuddle him, hold him in your hands and stroke his fur as often as you can; show him how much you love him!
It is important to offer him special care on a daily basis by holding him, cuddling him and touching him as often as possible
Step 3. Handle it carefully and correctly
Always make sure that you are fully supporting the weight of his body, as he is a small creature with fragile bones. Some specimens have a tendency to jump, especially when returned to the cage. This type of fall could cause bone fractures, severe trauma and even death. To handle the rodent correctly, wrap around its chest with one hand while supporting its legs and butt with the other; to ensure even more safety, keep it close to your chest. Speak to him gently as you lift and touch him, remembering to approach him from the front so as not to scare him.
- If your pet has a habit of jumping and wriggling, you can try to train him not to squirm when you pick him up or put him back in the cage. Hold it with a firm but gentle grip; when you move it to place it in the cage, keep it a few inches from the floor. Don't free him until he stops squirming in your hands. Be careful not to squeeze him too hard, otherwise you can damage his spine and cause paralysis. Only put it back on the floor of the cage when it stops moving and fighting you, but don't let it go, as it will most likely try to escape. Hold it until it stops moving; after several sessions of this training, your pet should learn that it can only be free if it stops moving.
- Small children should not be allowed to hold the guinea pig in their hands, as they may inadvertently crush or drop it.
Step 4. Teach the guinea pig some games
It is a very intelligent creature and you can teach it to "stand" on its hind legs, to turn around, to run in circles, to stand on a pedestal, to jump and to respond when called by name. Generally speaking, this animal is not easy to train - just like other rodents - but you can manage it with a little patience!
- Younger dogs tend to be more receptive and learn games better than adult ones. Before you start training your guinea pig, make sure you have a good bond with him based on trust.
- To train your guinea pig, you need to rely on a method known as operant conditioning, which provides a reward every time the animal successfully completes a task. Start rewarding the small movements separately and then move on to the full exercise.
- For example, if you want him to run in circles at your command, you will need to fill a pocket with delicious treats (like carrot bits) and get a tool that makes a noise, such as a clicker. Say the command "turn" and, even if the pet responds by moving his head only slightly, activate the clicker, then give him a treat; in this way he associates the sound of the "click" with a correct behavior that allows him to receive a reward. Repeat the exercise until the little rodent has mastered the movement and then moves on to something that requires more effort to get the reward (for example, give him a piece of carrot when he makes a quarter turn, then half a turn, and so on. until it performs the full action). You should organize daily sessions to get results.
