When you want to stay in the park position, anchoring the boat correctly is essential. To learn how to anchor a boat safely and effectively, read the following instructions. Before to drop anchor, try to understand all the steps of the procedure, in particular the paragraph "Choosing a place for the Anchor". Even if you already have some anchors, reading or scrolling through the paragraph on which to choose will provide you with interesting information on the different use of each type, and on how to evaluate the quality of the anchor, the rope and the chain.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Choosing the Right Equipment
Step 1. Consider a multi-purpose anchor with articulated seams
Also called Danforth, it is based more on the shape than on the weight, since it is made up of two flat and pointed browns that form an angle of 30 ° with the central shaft of the anchor. It is one of the most common forms found on the market, and on sandy or muddy bottoms it has a better hold than any other type of anchor. However, its shape with the wide seas may prevent it from reaching the bottom in the presence of strong currents, and like most anchors, it can be difficult for it to grip rocks or other hard bottoms.
Aluminum variants of Danforth anchors, such as the Fortress, have a high holding power. Some also have adjustable seams, being able to expand them to use them on muddy bottoms. An anchor with large aluminum wheels is great in a storm
Step 2. For areas with strong or highly variable currents, look for a ploughshare or plow anchor
It is called this because of the ploughshare-shaped wedge attached to the stem through a pin. It is an effective anchor on soft bottoms, and to some extent better than other light anchors in the midst of algae. They are usually heavier than sea anchors of the same size, and thus anchor (bite into) the seabed more easily than sea anchors (although they have a slightly lower strength). The ability of the rod to rotate laterally in the direction it is pulled without tugging on the central body of the anchor itself makes it less likely that the ploughshare anchor will not hold even when the boat is pushed in different directions.
The ploughshare anchors do not have protruding stones or other elements with which the rope or the chain can break. However, unless you have a bow anchor winch, they are difficult to store
Step 3. Mushroom anchors should only be used for light duty
They resemble a disc or plate at the base of the anchor shaft. They don't hold much, but are a good choice for small boats making short stops in areas with soft bottoms. If your boat is small enough for the size of a mushroom anchor, this may be the best choice for areas with particularly clean bottoms.
Many anchors that are thrown electrically by simply pushing a button are mushroom-shaped
Step 4. For other particular uses other types of anchors should be sought
There are many other types of anchors, and no specification yet is suitable for any type of use. Grapple, log or admiralty anchors are useful for anchoring small boats on rocky bottoms. For less common bottoms you may need a specific anchor, such as a claw anchor on a gravelly bottom.
Step 5. For different uses it is advisable to use different types of anchors. Depending on the use you make of the boat, it is likely that you will need anchors of different sizes
The main anchor could be the one useful for places where you stop for a long time to fish and for many other uses. Still another one or two smaller sizes that is easy to throw and set sail can be useful for lunch stops or other short stops. A storm anchor one or two sizes larger should be carried around to be thrown in stormy conditions or for overnight stops. Also, it is always good to have at least one heavy supply in case you lose an anchor, or for situations where it is advisable to drop two anchors.
- When choosing an anchor, you should always follow the manufacturer's instructions for the boat you want to use. If you are carrying an extraordinary weight on the boat, an anchor larger than the recommended one should be chosen.
- If in doubt, it is always better to take an even larger one. Size is a more important indicator than weight, although both are relevant.
Step 6. Use high quality anchors
The anchor is important for safety, so you should buy the best one you can afford. Before purchasing, check that the anchor has no rust, that it has uniform and undamaged welds, and that it does not have any other oddities.
Step 7. Make sure you have the deck cleats and windlass that are appropriate for the anchors you use
On the boat you may have a windlass where you can store and attach the anchor, but be careful as each windlass is only suitable for specific types of anchors. Otherwise, check that the bollards on the deck are strong and solid enough to tie the anchor line to them.
Step 8. Learn how to choose the nylon rope for the anchor
The chain, rope, or a combination of these that connects the anchor to the boat is called top of the anchor. The elasticity of nylon allows it to react well to sudden changes in wind or current, and a high-quality rope is strong enough to be used as a line. It's also fairly simple to handle and relatively inexpensive, although you don't have to skimp on quality.
- A three-section braided nylon rope is more resistant to wetness, therefore more suitable for underwater use, but would be difficult to handle and should be replaced as soon as it becomes stiff due to salt. Medium-layer ropes with three braids are preferred, with reference to the number of turns of the weave, since they disintegrate less easily.
- It is easier to deal with braided nylon lines, but they are not a great choice for heavy use with the anchor, as they become entangled with objects lying on the bottom.
Step 9. Learn what the best anchor chain is
The chain is more expensive and requires more effort in use, but it is not dragged by the strongest currents and facilitates a fast descent of the anchor towards the bottom. Try to find a chain of good build quality and a homogeneous zinc plating, which can be found on a uniform surface. Among the chains, the BBB brand, Hi-test and anti-tangle chains are a good choice. Make sure the chain links are the right size for the boat's winch, which must accommodate and release when you drop anchor.
- Tangle-free chains should have a "G 3" stamped on each link.
- BBB chains are made of a very resistant material and with small links that are well suited to small winches. They are chosen by people who prefer to use full chain ropes rather than the combination of chain and rope.
- Hi-test chains are strong but light. If you need to contain the weight of the equipment, they are the best choice.
- The chains produced by companies in North America are of higher quality than those produced in other countries. If you live in another part of the world and don't like buying an import chain, you might want to ask local sailors or fishermen for some advice.
Step 10. Consider using both materials at the same time
An anchor line consisting of both rope and chain has some benefits and some disadvantages of both, but it requires an additional link to keep the two parts securely linked together. Ultimately, the discussion of chain versus rope involves many elements, so you may need the advice of an expert in the field to decide.
If you are using a chain-only rope, it is still a good idea to attach an "auxiliary" nylon rope to give the rope more weight and above all elasticity. One end is tied to a bollard at the bow, while with a particular carabiner the other end is hooked to the chain at about 1 meter and 20 or more from the point where this is fixed to the bow
Step 11. Always use a chain or rope of sufficient diameter
For a vessel no longer than 10 feet (3 meters) the nylon rope should be at least 4.8 mm in diameter, for one no more than 20 feet (6 meters) the rope diameter should not be less than 9, 5 mm. Beyond 20 feet, for every additional 10 feet of boat length, the diameter of the rope would need to be increased by another 3.2mm. With the same length of the vessel, the chain can have a diameter smaller than 3, 2 mm compared to what the corresponding rope should have.
Part 2 of 3: Choosing a Place for the Anchor
Step 1. To choose a good spot, use both sea charts and sight
The maps indicate the depth of the seabed and indicate each position dedicated to anchoring. Try to find a place with a flat bottom suitable for the type of anchor you have available (usually the best is a soft bottom that is fairly free of vegetation). Try to avoid areas where currents are strong or too exposed to weather conditions, especially for overnight stops.
If you want to try to find yourself above a school of fish or another specific point, remember that the anchor must be thrown quite upwind of the area where you want the boat to be
Step 2. Measure the depth and check if there is enough space available
Measure the depth at the point you have chosen and multiply it by 7: roughly it is the distance from the anchor that the boat will be carried by the current and the wind. If the current or wind changes, the boat will be able to sway until it reaches the opposite side of the anchor; make sure it has enough space in each direction. Do not anchor never the boat at a point where its range of motion could intersect with that of another boat.
- I should not assume that the other boats have the "anchor line" at the same length as yours, or that they are moving in the same direction. If in doubt, ask the owners of the other boats where they dropped anchor and what length they gave to the rope.
- The following instructions give a better idea of how the length of the anchor line should be decided.
Step 3. As you measure the bottom, take a loop around the point you are evaluating for anchoring
This way you will be able to discover any hidden obstacles or other objects that could damage the boat if it drifted while anchored.
If you find dangerous shallow water, you'll need to find another spot to drop anchor
Step 4. Check the weather and collect tide information
You should know the time of the next tide and the amplitude of the water level excursion between high and low tide, so as not to get caught unprepared. If you plan to stay longer than an hour or two, you should check the weather forecast to be prepared for any strong winds or thunderstorms.
Step 5. Evaluate which one to still use
At this point you should have a good idea of the place you have chosen. If you anticipate strong winds or a strong tide, or if the anchor could cause collisions if it does not hold well, you should use a heavy duty storm anchor with high sealing. For most situations, however, the normal main anchor or the light "lunch" anchor should be fine.
- For more information see the paragraph Choosing the Anchor.
- In rough conditions, it may be necessary to use a bow and aft anchor. This system can be adopted alone if even boats anchored nearby have adopted it, as boats anchored with one or two anchors move differently and could easily collide with each other.
Step 6. Slowly approach the chosen point to drop anchor, and stop when you are on it
When you stop, the current and wind will move the boat back slightly. This is the moment when the anchor must be dropped.
If the water is calm, it may be necessary to shift into reverse at minimum speed. Rather than trying to scream from one side of the boat to the other, it would be better to practice hand signals to say "go", "stop", "faster" and "slower"
Step 7. Find out how much line to leave and tie it there
Before you drop anchor, find out how long the line you need will be, then tie it to a cleat to leave it at that length. With the term scope it refers to the relationship between the length of the anchor line and the distance from the bow to the bottom. A good rule of thumb indicates that the ratio should be at least 7: 1 for an anchor line with the rope, or 5: 1 for a heavier one with the chain only. This ratio should be increased to 10: 1 or more in the event of thunderstorms or if the anchor could begin to move when plowing on the bottom. The longer the relationship is, the closer the anchor line is to a horizontal line, the more the anchor will be firm.
- The measurement should be taken from the tip of the bow, not from the surface of the water. If the bottom is 3 meters, and the bow is 1 meter 20 above the surface of the water, the total depth to be considered for the range is 4 meters 20. A normal range of 7: 1 would therefore require a line. of 4, 20 x 7 = 29, 4 meters.
- If you don't know how to tie the rope to the cleat (in technical jargon, cleat knot, or cleat knot) consult a technical text with seafaring knots or some tutorials on the internet.
- A capacity lower than those indicated must be used only and exclusively in the case in which it is necessary to prevent the boat from drifting between obstacles without it being possible to find another more adequate anchor point with more space available. You can never rely on a short course in bad weather or for overnight stays.
Part 3 of 3: Drop Anchor
Step 1. Lower the anchor slowly from the bow (front of the boat)
The line must be held taut to feel when the anchor rests on the bottom. Then let the anchor line spin at the same speed as the boat is moving. Eventually the top will be stretched towards the bottom, without having collected on itself and therefore not being able to tangle.
- Be very careful not to get your hands or feet stuck in the top, otherwise you could get very injured. Also inform passengers of this danger, and keep children and animals away.
- Do not cast the anchor outboard; lower it slowly to avoid hitting the top itself.
- Don't go down never one anchor from the stern unless there is already another anchor in the bow and additional anchorage is required. Anchoring at the stern can only lead to capsizing of the boat.
Step 2. When 1/3 of the line has been spun, tighten it and let the boat straighten
Immediately the boat should turn with the current or the wind. After you have spun 1/3 of the total length of the line you have decided to lower, tighten it and wait for the boat to straighten. In this way, the rope you have lowered is also stretched and the anchor is allowed to make head (to cling to the bottom).
If the boat does not straighten, it means the anchor is plowing and you will need to retry anchoring. If possible choose another point to drop the anchor
Step 3. Continue lowering range and straightening the boat a couple more times
Release the line and let it spin again with the drifting motion of the boat. Tighten it again when 2/3 of the top has been lowered. Let the rush of the boat straighten it and make it face the anchor even more firmly. Repeat this process one more time, letting the rest of the anchor line that you have decided to drop run off.
Step 4. Tie the line to a cleat
The top of the anchor must be securely tied to a bow cleat. Tug to verify that the anchor has made head and hold, although please note that it may need other adjustments as illustrated below. Otherwise, you will need to repeat the whole process. In which case, try to find another point with better conditions for anchoring.
Step 5. Check for proper anchoring using reference points
First of all, locate two fixed objects on the coast, and note their relative position with respect to your vantage point - for example, a tree in front of a lighthouse, or two rocks that appear as far apart as your thumb by holding your arm. tense. Start the engine in reverse until the line stretches, then put it in neutral. The boat should return to its parked position from where the two objects you pinned should appear in the exact same relative position.
- If the two objects are in different positions while you remained in the exact same spot during the two surveys, it means that you are not anchored and need to anchor again.
- Hand signals should be agreed in advance with those at the helm to avoid having to shout from one point of the boat to another.
Step 6. Use the throttle to give the anchor extra hold
It is said abuse the anchor, and allows the anchor to have a greater grip on the seabed. The coxswain must reverse firmly until the anchor line is taut, and then he must turn off the engine.
Double-check the references with the helmsman, to double check that the anchor has not cleared
Step 7. Get compass references regularly
References should be taken with many objects in the surroundings, noting them in the logbook. They should be taken immediately after anchoring, and 15-20 minutes later to make sure the anchor holds. Keep checking every hour or every few hours, depending on how long you stay at anchor.
- GPS often have an alarm that goes off in case drift movement is recorded.
- If you are about to pass the note at anchor, try to locate an object that will remain illuminated. If not, you will need to use a GPS.
- For extended periods at anchor or overnight stays, you may want to arrange shifts to check the anchor, so that the crew can periodically check that the boat is not drifting.
Advice
- When using an anchor with hulls, a couple of short but firm tugs should be given to the line while lowering the rope to get it fixed. The longer the top is lowered, the better the angle that allows the marre to penetrate into the sand of the seabed.
- Once all the steps are done, make sure the line is well rolled up and stored carefully to prevent it from tangling.
Warnings
- When throwing and setting anchor, you must always wear floating safety devices (vest).
- Buoys can be useful for signaling a good area for fishing, so you may more easily find a windward point for anchoring at a suitable distance. However, if the boat drifts, the buoys that serve to mark your anchor point could become entangled with other anchor lines. They should not be used for overnight anchorages, and care must be taken even for short stops.
