Used in herbal medicine for thousands of years, high quality ginseng roots are still worth hundreds of dollars per kilo and patient growers can harvest large quantities following the "wild-like" culture method. The method described in this tutorial takes seven years to grow before harvest, but produces high quality ginseng and reduces the chances of damage. Even if it is possible to cultivate it in the open field, but in the shelter and in just four years, this method requires much more effort, a greater expense and produces a much less precious ginseng; in this way it is only convenient if grown on a large scale.
Steps
Part 1 of 4: Choosing a Growing Site
Step 1. Think about how to market the ginseng you make
Before you even start growing it, make sure you already have a way to sell it once it's ripe. One idea would be to get in touch with a certified dealer in your area. You may be able to bring your product to their company, have it weighed, and have an offer right away. If you are not satisfied with the price they offer, you can simply go to a different retailer.
- You can check the national register of certified resellers to find the closest one. If you find several, then you can visit them all in order to find the best price for your product.
- If you want to eliminate the middleman and sell and export the product on your own, then you may want to consider getting a license to resell it. Check what the rules are in force for the state where you live. At a minimum, you will need to apply and pay a fee.
- Some growers sell their ginseng on auction sites like eBay. You will still need to have a license to be able to do this.
Step 2. Understand the method of growing wild-like ginseng
This simulates the natural environment of the plant. While growing it this way generally takes eight years before it reaches full ripeness, the end result is a far more valuable product than field-grown ginseng, due to its color and shape. You can try to modify this process by using artificial shade or by working the earth, but you will end up with a rather woody looking ginseng, with a different shape and less valuable.
The open field cultivation method allows the plant to mature in 4 years, but it requires very intense work, provides for a greater risk of spreading diseases and a much lower yield per hectare. Most of the small farmers choose the wild-like cultivation, which generates a higher value plant, around 2000 euros, in addition to the work. These figures are only rough estimates
Step 3. Check if the environment is suitable for cultivation
If you want to cultivate with the "pseudo-wild" method, it is necessary that the soil is the natural one of the plant. Ginseng grows in a cool, temperate climate, with nearby broad-leaved woods and an average annual rainfall of 50-100 cm. This type of environment can be found, for example, in the northwest, central and northeastern areas of the United States, in southern Canada and in the mountainous regions of the southern United States.
If you are unsure whether ginseng can be grown in your region, search online or contact your local agricultural policy office
Step 4. Obtain any permits or licenses necessary to grow and sell ginseng
State regulations for this type of cultivation vary, but special permits or licenses are often required, especially if you intend to grow it for commercial purposes. Check the local regulations, contact the ministerial and council services to find out what to do to grow it legally. You should also check the requirements for obtaining organic certification well before planting the seeds. The "wild-like" method described in this article is organic.
Still taking the example of the United States, of the 19 states that allow ginseng harvesting, 18 require that all plants harvested be at least 5 years old with 3 leaves, while Illinois only requires as a requirement that the plants be at least 10 years old and are formed by 4 leaves
Step 5. Choose a suitable site
Ginseng grows best in well-shaded environments (particularly on north- or east-facing slopes) of moist deciduous forests, especially those with deep-rooted deciduous plants such as yellow poplar, oak, sugar maple, or tulip tree. Ancient forests with tall hardwood trees and large canopies that block at least 75% of sunlight are ideal. Shrubs, brambles and dense undergrowth can compete with ginseng and take up most of the available nutrients.
- Probably the best way to determine if a site is appropriate is to check if wild ginseng grows there.
- Since wild ginseng is very rare, you can get some idea of its suitability, if you see that in the same area grow "symbiotic plants" such as trillium, rubifolia, dark gigaro, wild yam, hydraste L., polygonatum, wild ginger or botrychium virginianum. Search online for pictures of these plants and see if they grow in the area, or ask a botanist to help you with your search.
- Keep in mind that ginseng thieves are also a serious problem - make sure you choose an area that is hidden from public view and not near a path or roadway.
Step 6. Evaluate and analyze the terrain
It must be clayey and moist, able to drain quickly. Avoid swampy, hard clay soil. Once you have identified an area that seems suitable for you, collect several samples of the same amount of soil throughout the area you plan to grow on and mix them in a plastic bucket. Have your samples analyzed in a private laboratory or university. You can also find a kit designed for testing at your garden store, which you can use to determine the pH of the soil, but you can hardly detect the calcium and phosphorus in this way. Although there are still conflicting opinions on which type of soil is best, the qualities to look for are a pH between 4.5 to 5.5 (acidic soil), calcium levels of around 0.35kg per square meter and levels of phosphorus (P) of at least 0.01 kg per square meter.
- Soil with the right moisture level shouldn't get you dirty or stick if you squeeze it in your hand.
- Some growers prefer a more neutral pH, between 6 and 7. Unfortunately, not enough studies have been done on this to determine the perfect environment, but ginseng should grow adequately in any pH range between 4 and 7.
Step 7. Fertilize if necessary
If you find a perfect site except for the chemical composition of the soil, you can consider modifying the soil to adjust the pH or increase the amounts of phosphorus and calcium. If you want to sell pseudo-wild ginseng instead of forest-grown ginseng, you don't have to fertilize, or at least apply the fertilizer only to the soil surface and don't mix it into the soil. The pH can be increased by adding lime (calcium carbonate), while the calcium can be increased, without altering the pH, by adding gypsum (calcium sulphate).
Know that ginseng can grow in soils with little calcium or phosphate, but in this case it produces smaller roots or grows slower. So consider placing your plants further apart so they don't compete for nutrients
Part 2 of 4: Prepare the Seeds
Step 1. Purchase or harvest ginseng seeds
Be aware that some regions prohibit or limit the collection of wild ginseng; inquire about the regulations in your state, country or region before looking for wild plants. If you are not legally allowed to harvest them or cannot find the wild plants, as they are extremely rare, you can purchase the seeds from another local grower or online. "Green" seeds are cheaper than cold-layered ones, but require additional months of preparation which is described in the next step.
- Seeds that are too soft, moldy or discolored are not suitable for sowing. You should return them to the seller and have them replaced.
- Order the seeds early, in July or August, so they are delivered to you in the fall. If you wait until autumn you will probably end up with lower quality seeds.
Step 2. Keep them moist before planting
Make sure the stratified seeds you buy stay refrigerated in a plastic bag. Spray them with a spray bottle once a week until it comes time to plant them. If they dry, they die.
Step 3. Prepare the seeds for germination if they are not stratified
When a ginseng plant produces its seeds naturally, they don't germinate the following year. To germinate they must stratify a year, a process in which they lose the pulp of the berries that envelop them and prepare to sprout. Most of the seeds purchased in garden centers are already layered, but if you have harvested them yourself or bought the "green" ones, you need to start the process yourself. Depending on the amount of seeds you have, practice one of the following methods:
- If the seeds are few, put them in a thin mesh bag, tied with a thread. In the fall, bury the bag under 10-13cm of loose, shady soil. Cover it with about 10 cm of mulch. Mark the position well and keep the area moist, but not too soggy.
- If it is a large quantity of seeds, place them in a suitable container that allows the water to drain well and keeps rodents away. Build a wooden box, with a panel on top and bottom, that is at least 20-30cm deep if you have enough seeds to form several layers. Fill the box by alternating layers of moist sand and seeds. Bury the box at least 2.5-5cm below the ground. Cover it with a layer of mulch and mark the location. Water if the soil dries up.
Step 4. Plant the sprouted seeds in the spring
If you have stratified the seeds, retrieve the container and see if any seeds are ready. Eliminate any soft, moldy, or discolored ones. If any have sprung up, plant them immediately. Place the container back under the soil layer, mixing them and checking that the sand or soil is still wet.
Step 5. Plant more seeds in the fall
The ideal time to sow them is autumn, after the leaves have fallen from the trees, but before the ground freezes. They perform best when planted in late fall or early winter; seedlings should appear when the soil is moist, such as after a rain.
Step 6. Soak the seeds in water and bleach before planting
Unless they are already popping up, you should first soak them in a solution of 1 part bleach and 9 parts water. Soak them for 10 minutes to kill some fungal spores that often infect them. If some seeds float, they are most likely empty and dead and need to be discarded. Finally rinse the remaining seeds in clean water and take them to the soil where you want to plant them.
You can also treat them with a fungicide if you wish, but first make sure it is a safe product for ginseng
Part 3 of 4: Planting the Seeds
Step 1. Remove small weeds and weeds from the growing area
You don't have to remove all the plants in the area, but the small undergrowth competes with ginseng for nutrients. Ferns in particular produce a chemical that can kill neighboring plants, so you should weed them out or avoid growing adjacent to these plants.
Step 2. Plant a large number of seeds by spreading them quickly
If you want your ginseng to grow in the wildest conditions possible, or if you really have a large amount of seeds, simply distribute them widely throughout the designated area. But first remove the layer of leaves and undergrowth. The goal is to spread around 65-120 seeds per square meter.
Step 3. If you have a small amount of seeds try to carefully plant them deeper
Most wild-grown ginseng is also planted with a little preparation and a couple of standard gardening tools. First, rake the soil to loosen it. Use a hoe to make grooves that run down the slope, not down. Plant according to the following needs:
- Plant the seeds about 15-23 cm apart if you expect to have a big harvest after 7 years or more. This is the typical way to grow ginseng with the pseudo-wild method, as the large distance reduces the risk of disease spreading.
- Plant the seeds at least 2.5cm apart if you have large quantities and want to harvest ginseng early. This method is used most often for ginseng grown in the field, because when it is planted in a rather concentrated manner it must be monitored very carefully and treated against diseases and any pests. It is not recommended for those who are growing it for the first time.
Step 4. Cover the area with leaves or mulch
Replace the bottom of leaves that you raked earlier or add a layer of mulch. This keeps the soil moist, which is vital for ginseng. Cover the soil with 2.5-5 cm of material, but no more, because the shoots are unable to get through a thicker layer. You should use 10cm of mulch if you live in an area with cold winters and frequent frosts, but remember to reduce this layer and leave it thinner in the spring.
Do not put whole oak leaves. They are too hard and large to allow sprouts to grow through them. Shred them first, if by any chance you've already purchased them to make mulch
Step 5. Mark the area discreetly or use a GPS device to locate it
You don't have to go often to check, but the appearance of the forest can change a lot over the 7-plus years it takes for plants to reach maturity, so you need to be sure you can find your chosen growing site again. The best way to do this is to use a GPS device to determine the exact coordinates. This way you don't leave any telltale signs on the ground that could attract potential thieves to your plants. If you absolutely have to mark the area, make sure it is materials / methods that do not easily attract attention.
Part 4 of 4: Caring for Plants and Harvesting
Step 1. Keep the place secret and safe
Because wild ginseng is so prized, thieves are common in the regions where it is grown. Fencing off the area does not discourage those who know that ginseng is present there, but it can prevent people from discovering the site. Keeping a bull, dog, or other aggressive animal can be a great deterrent, as long as the animal isn't locked up in the same area where you planted ginseng.
Step 2. Prune plants that are grown too intensively every year
If they grow too close together, they can spread disease or conflict over nutrients. Try removing or transplanting some after the first growing season so you can get up to 65 plants per square meter; repeat the process the second year of growth until you get 11-22 per square meter.
You can also plant ginseng each year in other areas during the fall to ensure consistent yields each year. Many growers follow this method to obtain mature ginseng to be harvested every year after the first batch has ripened
Step 3. Document yourself thoroughly before using pesticides and pesticides
An important advantage of pseudo-wild cultivation is a reduced risk of pests and diseases, thanks to the increased space available. You can allow some berries or plants to be eaten or spoiled by pests, but it will be difficult to lose many roots, which are the valuable part of ginseng; instead you have to be very careful that diseases do not spread between plants at a high rate. If you encounter a problem, contact the relevant offices for information on the pesticides you can apply.
But be aware that you risk losing your organic product certification or your credibility in selling pseudo-wild ginseng if you use pesticides
Step 4. Wait for the plants to reach maturity
You will have to wait about 7-10 years for them to mature and form some great and precious roots, but with the right site and a little luck you will succeed. Growing ginseng the wild-like method requires a lot of patience, but hardly any care. Check the crop periodically to see if the soil remains moist and covered with a small amount of mulch.
If the ginseng has been planted intensively, harvest it after 4 years, otherwise the roots may start to shrink. Small roots are not that valuable
Step 5. Do not think that the plants remain visible all year round
The part that remains external on the surface dies in autumn, but grows again in spring. Each time it grows bigger and each year the root gets bigger and bigger.
Step 6. Harvest the red berries annually after the third year
Once the plants are mature, they produce a cluster of red berries with the seed in the center. Collect them in the fall if you want to get the seeds to plant or sell. Keep in mind that they will need to be layered following the process already described in the 'Prepare the Seeds' section.
Step 7. Harvest mature plants at any time after the seventh year
Once you've given ginseng enough time to reach maturity, you'll want to harvest it as soon as possible, but it's generally recommended after age 7 if you want to have a high-quality root. If you are not in a hurry you can leave the plants in the ground for many years and they will continue to grow. If, on the other hand, you want to harvest them as soon as possible, check local laws and regulations to find out how to harvest ginseng in advance.
Step 8. Dig carefully so as not to damage the root
Use a pitchfork or arched spade to dig under the plant and leave plenty of space (about 6 inches) between the plant and where you press the tool into the ground. If the plant is close to others that are not yet mature, use a small accessory, such as a large flat blade screwdriver of about 20-25 cm and work the soil with the utmost care. If there is even the slightest risk of damaging the roots of neighboring plants, don't try to harvest it until the others have matured as well.
Note: Ginseng plants typically grow at a 45 ° angle into the ground, not downward, and can be skewered in several sections. Dig carefully and make sure you don't break the root.
Step 9. Wash and dry the roots
Briefly dip the roots in a bucket of cold water to get rid of any soil residue. Then lay them in a single layer on a wooden tray and wash them gently under the sink tap or with a hose. Make sure the roots are not touching each other and let them dry on a wooden panel in a well-ventilated area with a temperature between 21 ° C and 32 ° C. Humidity should remain between 35% and 45% to prevent the plants from drying out too quickly, which would reduce their economic value. Turn them once a day. The roots are ready when you are able to break them, but be sure to do the test occasionally on a single root only.
- Do not rub the roots and do not wash them too vigorously, because some of the active medicinal ingredients are concentrated in the root hair; removing them would reduce the usefulness and value of the root.
- Small roots take a day or two to dry, but large, mature ones can take up to six weeks.
- Direct sunlight usually tends to dry them out too quickly, but if you notice any signs of mold or discoloration, place them in direct sunlight for a few hours to kill the infection.
Advice
- Properly spacing your plants helps prevent fungus and disease problems. Even if you risk losing a few plants due to disease, you probably won't lose all of them as it could happen if they are too close together. Symbiotic plants can also reduce pest and disease problems. If fungi spread, ask experts before using fungicides.
- When the plants begin to bear fruit, they naturally seed the area every year, so you will have a truly sustainable harvest. If you want to ensure a continuous harvest, however, you will need to sow more in the first two years, when the plants are unlikely to bear fruit.
- Normal deer populations probably won't significantly damage your crop, but if there is an overpopulation problem in your area, consider getting help from guard dogs. Due to the considerable distance between plants, burrowing mammals are not usually a big problem, however traps (not poisons) and other organic deterrents should be used as needed.
Warnings
- Be wary of too cheap seeds. Harvesting and layering of seeds is an intense process that requires attention. Reputable suppliers do this accurately and will make you pay for the seeds accordingly.
- Due to possible crop deaths, thieves or falling prices, investing all of your savings in a ginseng crop can be risky. Grow it only to supplement your income or to save for retirement, but keep a reserve annuity in case the ginseng doesn't work.
- Be careful if you have to deal with any thieves and don't use force or violence to repel them.
- To ensure the survival of the species (and to avoid being fined or indicted), always respect local regulations for the cultivation and sale of wild-like ginseng.
