For centuries, farmers and gardeners have grown tobacco for personal use and sale. Although most tobacco today is grown and processed by large companies, you can grow it yourself with a little knowledge and a lot of patience. Growing tobacco is legal, but it can be quite a challenging process, so follow the advice in this article to learn how.
Steps
Part 1 of 4: Knowing the Soil Conditions and Climate
Step 1. Know that leaf tobacco grows in almost any type of soil
It is an extremely hardy plant and grows more or less everywhere, like other agricultural crops, although, as a general rule, it grows best in well-drained soils. The important thing to keep in mind is that tobacco is greatly affected by the soil in which it is grown; sandier soils generally produce a lighter colored tobacco, while in soils richer in organic matter a darker colored tobacco is obtained.
Step 2. For best results, grow it in a dry, warm climate
Tobacco needs a frost-free period of 3-4 months between the transplant stage and harvest. To obtain a better quality product it should ripen without heavy rain; excess water makes plants thin and scaly. The ideal temperature for optimal cultivation ranges from 20 to 30 ° C.
Part 2 of 4: Planting and Transplanting Tobacco
Step 1. Spread the tobacco seeds on the surface of a sterilized planting medium mixture and water lightly
Place the mixture in a small pot, preferably with holes in the bottom to allow the water to drain. You need to keep these seeds indoors for 4-6 weeks.
- The planting medium consists of compost and other nutrients that promote healthy seed growth. You can easily find it in garden stores.
- Tobacco seeds are very small (no bigger than a pinhead), so make sure you don't sow them too close together. Leave adequate space between them to prevent seedlings from growing too close together.
- Since the seeds are so small, it is not advisable to start sowing outdoors. Furthermore, they have different nutritional needs from those of many other plants; keeping them indoors you can add some gravel or a specific fertilizer for tobacco in the early stages of growth.
- Seeds require mild temperatures ranging from 24 to 27 ° C to germinate properly. If you're not growing them in a greenhouse, make sure the covered area meets these requirements.
- Do not cover them with soil as they need light to complete germination; if you cover them you could slow them down and even prevent them from developing. Sprouts should start sprouting in 7-10 days.
Step 2. Water the soil often to keep it moist, but do not soak it
You should never leave the soil completely dry.
- Use extreme caution when watering, as the force of the water could uproot the delicate seedlings that are sprouting and cause them to die.
- If you can, wet them from below. If you used a vase with holes in the bottom, place it on top of a tub of water. Leave it for a few minutes, so that the water is absorbed by the soil through the holes. This way you can water the seedlings without wetting the leaves.
Step 3. Transplant them into a larger pot after 3 weeks
After this time the young plants should be large enough to be transplanted if you have cared for and watered them correctly.
- Moving to a larger container allows the seedlings to develop a strong and healthy root system.
- To understand if they have reached the correct size, try to grab them. If you can pinch them easily between your thumb and forefinger, it means they're ready for transplant. If they are still too small, complete the germination process until they reach the right size.
- Transferring bare-rooted (soil-less) seedlings directly from the pot to the garden is an easier method of transplanting and will only need to be done once. However, be aware that once planted in the ground, the bare-rooted plant can suffer from "transplant shock," as a result of which some or most of the larger leaves may turn yellow and wither. After a week, the plant will flower again, but if you avoid transplant trauma altogether you can save yourself an extra week of waiting, as the intermediate transfer to a large pot allows the tobacco to start growing immediately.
Step 4. Spray a fertilizer solution such as Miracle-Gro or an algae / fish emulsion
It should be enough to feed the plants until they can be moved to the soil, about 3-4 weeks later.
If you notice that the plants are starting to turn yellow or appear to be suffering, another dose of fertilizer may be needed. Don't overdo it, though, as excessive use of fertilizer in pots can burn roots or make plants thin or overly lush
Step 5. Prepare the soil for transplanting larger plants
Make sure the area you have chosen is constantly exposed to the sun, well draining and plowed.
- Lack of sun leads to slender plants, poor growth, and small leaves. This may not be a problem if you want to plant tobacco to make cigars, as growing tobacco in shade can produce leaves with desirable characteristics.
- Soil pH levels should also be tested. Tobacco plants grow well in moderately acidic soils, otherwise they do not bloom. Soil should have a pH of 5.8. If the soil has a pH of 6.5 or higher, poor growth and some disturbances in plant development may occur.
- Do not grow tobacco in soil infested with diseases and nematodes. Nematodes are parasitic worms that feed on tobacco and are extremely difficult to exterminate once infestation has occurred.
Step 6. Transfer the plants to the soil when the sprouts have reached 15-20 cm in length
Space the plants at least 60-90cm apart on the same row, leaving a space between the rows of 1-1.2m.
- Tobacco plants are "voracious" in the sense that they run out of nutrients in the soil in about 2 years. To counteract this, practice crop rotation every two years on your soil, growing the plants in a different location and waiting another year before moving them back to their original location.
- Rather than keeping an empty field, you can alternate growing tobacco with other crops that are not susceptible to common soil pests, such as corn or soy.
Part 3 of 4: Caring for Tobacco
Step 1. Water the plants thoroughly every night for a couple of days to allow the roots to settle
When they get firmer, you can water them less often to avoid getting them too drenched.
- Keep the plants well watered without soaking the soil too much. If there is a possibility that the field may dry out, consider installing an irrigation system. This prevents the soil from becoming excessively dry, which could hamper the growth of tobacco.
- If you think it might rain or even light drizzle for a few days, you can water less often. The structure of the leaves of this plant allows it to collect and convey water to the roots.
Step 2. Apply a low chlorine fertilizer with nitrogen only nitrogen
Fertilizers that are used for tomatoes, peppers and potatoes are also suitable.
- A fertilizer overdose is a serious problem, as it can cause harmful salt build-up. How much to apply depends mainly on the quality of the fertilizer itself, the natural fertility of the soil, the loss of nutrients due to washout and other subjective factors. Follow the directions on the package for better use of the product.
- You should apply the fertilizer several times. But when the tobacco begins to bloom, it should no longer be needed.
Step 3. Remove the top of the plant as soon as it begins to flower
You need to remove the bud (center) to allow the upper leaves to develop if you want to get bigger and thicker leaves.
- The terminal bud is the most prominent and usually sits on top of the stem. It can be removed by simply snapping or cutting it, and is best done before the flowers open.
- Immediately after removing the top, more shoots develop on the side leaves. Eliminate them manually, otherwise you reduce the yield and quality of the tobacco.
Step 4. Gently hoe around the plants to prevent weeds from growing
You can also raise some soil around the base of the plants to try to reinforce their growth.
- The roots grow rapidly and the root system becomes quite large, with thousands of small hair-like thin branches growing close to the soil surface. Be careful when you are plowing or hoeing, as if you get too deep into the ground you could damage them.
- After 3-4 weeks of planting, you need to avoid heavy plowing and limit yourself to light weeding to keep weeds away.
Step 5. Spray the plants with specific pesticides suitable for tobacco if you notice pests or rot
Among the most common parasites are tobacco anobium and aleurodide, as well as various pathogens.
- Tobacco is subject to infestations with many insects and various diseases. The field rotation process should help reduce the risk, but it is not a guarantee.
- If you still encounter an infestation on your plantation, you can find specific pesticides at many garden and home improvement stores. Brands include "Nemacur", the "Most Micro" and "Admiral". Keep in mind that some pesticides are specifically designed for insect control on young plants, while others just kill the pest. Find the most suitable pesticide for your specific situation.
Part 4 of 4: Harvesting and Seasoning
Step 1. Cut the tobacco plants at the height of the stem with the leaves attached
Alternatively, you can remove the leaves directly in the field. Plants should be ready for harvest approximately 3 months after planting.
- The stems must be cut about 3-4 weeks after the central core removal operation. The lower leaves at this time are partially deteriorated. If you remove the leaves directly in the field, you should organize 4 or 5 harvesting times at 1-2 week intervals, starting with the lowest leaves. The former should start immediately after the center tip is removed and when the leaves show a slight yellowing.
- The flowers inhibit the growth of the leaves as they compete with them for the sunlight; it is important to remove them to obtain a wider production of leaves.
- Make sure you keep the leaves intact, as they will hang during the curing process. This is a necessary phase because it prepares them for consumption; the process allows the leaves to develop various compounds that impart an aromatic flavor of hay, tea, rose oil or fruit. Seasoning also contributes to the "softness" of the tobacco, if consumed.
Step 2. Hang the leaves in a well-ventilated, warm and humid place
The recommended aging temperature ranges from 18 to 35 ° C, while the optimum humidity is around 65-70%.
- Make sure there is adequate space between the stems to allow for proper drying of the leaves.
- Proper curing typically takes a couple of weeks to produce good quality tobacco. If it's too fast, the tobacco stays green and probably won't have a good aroma or flavor. Leaves that dry too slowly can develop mold or deteriorate; be sure to monitor the leaves closely for these signs and to adjust the ambient temperature and humidity accordingly.
- If seasoning is done with the leaves left on the stems, remove them when the process is done.
- The ideal is to find an environment that can be opened and closed, so as to control the degree of humidity and drying. Some “amateur” tobacco producers have built maturing plants and can sell them.
- The process of curing tobacco in the air is mainly reserved for the leaves that are used for cigars. Tobacco can be dried with fire, the sun or it can be smoked. Fire drying of tobacco typically takes 10-13 weeks and is done to make pipe and chewing tobacco. Seasoning with the sun or with smoking is done for cigarettes.
Step 3. Age the tobacco in conditions similar to maturation
Commercial tobacco is typically aged for a year or more, but amateur-made tobacco can take up to 5-6 years.
- Aging does not activate if the temperature and humidity are not correct. If the tobacco is too dry, it does not ripen; if it is too wet, it rots. Unfortunately there are no universally valid benchmarks and both factors can vary widely, so some trial and error will be required.
- Check the leaves carefully as they age to make sure they are moist but without signs of rot. This is unfortunately not an exact science and requires changes in the process.
- Aging is an optional process, but unaged tobacco is usually sour and doesn't taste good.
Advice
- Some people harvest several times during the season as the leaves reach the appropriate length. Experience will teach you to understand whether your plants should be harvested from the leaf or from the stem.
- The type and quantity of fertilizer, the frequency of irrigation and disinfestation change greatly depending on the climate and location. Consult local sources for tips on growing tobacco in your specific area.
Warnings
- Tobacco pests are often different from those that attack other plants - make sure the remedies you use don't interfere with other crops.
- Wait 4-5 years before growing more tobacco in the same field. This allows the soil to regenerate the necessary nutrients.
