For those who can afford them, Rolex watches are the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement; for this reason, therefore, there are a large number of fakes on the market. The differences between a real model and an imitation are not always very obvious, but with a few simple tips you can determine how many are the chances that your purchase turns out to be a bargain or a scam. However, for counterfeit but high quality watches, professional advice should be sought. Read on to learn how to evaluate the authenticity of a Rolex watch.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Check for Gross Defects
Step 1. Listen for the telltale "tic"
On normal watches, the movement of the second hand is jerky and truncated. This goes from one second to the next abruptly. On Rolex (and many other quality watches), however, the seconds hand has a smooth and continuous movement producing a more homogeneous tick. If you hear a slow ticking from the clock, it is almost certainly an imitation.
Step 2. Check if the second hand jerks
As previously stated, Rolexes have a fluid movement of this element that travels the dial rather than snapping from one position to the next. Check the second hand very carefully: does it rotate smoothly, tracing a seamless circumference? Or does it seem to accelerate, then slow down or jerk as it rotates? If this element does not move smoothly and continuously, then you have an imitation in your hands.
Real Rolexes, when looked at closely, do not have a perfect smooth movement. In truth, the hand makes eight small clicks per second and on some models even less. However, this speed is not perceptible to the naked eye and the hand appears to rotate continuously
Step 3. Check the "magnification" of the calendar
Many Rolexes (but not all models) have a small date window located on the right side of the dial (near the "3 o'clock"). To make it easy to read this number, the watch is equipped with a magnifying glass (called a "cyclops") positioned on the date window. This element is rather difficult to counterfeit, so many imitations do have a panel that looks like a magnifying glass, but, upon careful inspection, it is understood that it is a simple piece of glass. If the date number is not enlarged, the watch is most likely a fake.
Modern Rolexes have a cyclops lens that magnifies the date by 2.5 times and the number should be clearly visible within the "window". Some good quality counterfeits are capable of providing some magnification, but not enough to make the window appear fully occupied by the number
Step 4. Loosen the crown and turn the hands counterclockwise to change the date
It should go back to the previous date when the 6 o'clock position passes and not 12 o'clock. This is virtually impossible to replicate. If it behaves otherwise it is almost certainly a fake.
Step 5. Be suspicious if the watch is light
Real Rolexes are built with heavy, high-quality metals and crystals. When you take them in your hand and wear them on your wrist you should feel a mass that transmits solidity. If the watch feels light to you, it may not be of quality, it may lack the sought-after materials that Rolex relies on for production, or it may be a replica built from cheap metals.
Step 6. Check if the rest of the crate is transparent
Some imitations have a glass on the back of the case that allows you to see the internal mechanism. This transparent area is sometimes (but not always) hidden by a metal cover. No genuine Rolex model has this feature, and if your watch has a transparent case it is a fake. Only very few originals have a transparent case, but they are only presentation models not sold to the public.
Counterfeiters are thought to construct their copies in this way to allow sellers to circumvent unwary buyers by allowing them to control the "fine watchmaking" of the mechanism. The inexperienced buyer will be surprised by the internal movement of the watch instead of being alerted by the unusual feature
Step 7. Check the materials
Take the watch in your hand and turn it. Check the back of the case, which should be smooth, unmarked and made of high quality metal. If the band is not leather, it should also be solid metal and well constructed. If you notice thin, inexpensive plastic or metal items (such as aluminum), you have a fake on your hands. These characteristics are a clear sign of a hasty and inaccurate product. Rolexes are built only with fine materials: no expense is spared when creating each model.
Also, if the back of the case is metal but is actually a removable cover (revealing an inner plastic case), then it is certainly a fake watch
Step 8. Test the water resistance
A sure way to tell if the model is a real Rolex is to check its water resistance. All the original models are perfectly airtight; if the watch allows even a single drop of water to enter, then it is very likely that it is an imitation. To check its resistance, fill a cup with water, immerse the watch for several seconds and then take it out: it should be in perfect working order and without any trace of water inside the dial. If not, it is a fake.
- Of course, if your watch is fake, this test will damage it. You may be required by the seller to purchase or have to take the model to an experienced watchmaker for repair. If you don't want to take the risk, opt for another test.
- Remember that only the Submariner model is built for use in deep water; other Rolexes withstand a shower or swim in the pool, but could be damaged by more extreme tests.
Step 9. When you have no way to do other checks, compare the specimen with a model of proven originality
A comparison test is always very useful to understand how a real Rolex "should be". The official Rolex website contains a catalog of the entire production with many photos for each model. This way you can compare the specimen you have in your hands with "reference" images. Pay close attention to the dial - is each element just as it should be? If there are additional elements such as the chronograph or date window, are they placed in the exact position? Are the writings identical? Do the letters have the same font?
If even one of the answers to the previous questions is "no", then the watch is fake. Rolexes are famous for being meticulously and precisely built, blunders are very unlikely indeed
Method 2 of 3: Check for Small Imperfections
Step 1. Verify the serial number
Some good counterfeits are difficult to distinguish from the originals. To find them you have to check the small details of the model, the most intricate and most difficult to reproduce. To get started, look for the serial number. You can find it by removing the strap. To proceed, usually, just remove the joint that connects it to the speaker with a pin or other similar object. However, if you'd rather not do it on your own, you can ask a professional to help you. The serial number is found between the "wings" at 6 o'clock on the dial.
- The engraving of the serial number must be perfect and precise with very sharp lines. Some counterfeiters use an acid etching method for this work which however makes the surface of the metal "sandy" when examined with a magnifying glass.
- Between the opposite pair of flaps there should be another similar writing. This is the reference number which must also be accompanied by the inscription: "ORIG ROLEX DESIGN".
- The production date may also be present above the serial number; you can rely on various online sources to verify the veracity of the serial code.
Step 2. Check the watch crown at 6 o'clock
In the first half of 2000, Rolex began to engrave its logo in the crystal of watches. If your model was built after this date, you should be able to see this subtle engraving of authenticity. Help yourself with a magnifying glass and examine the dial at 6 o'clock, towards the tip of the hand. The engraving is very, very small to look at, and you should also tilt the watch a bit to take advantage of the oblique light reflection.
Some companies that produce the fakes try to copy this detail, but it is extremely difficult to make it precisely. If the engraving is large enough to be seen with the naked eye, the model is fake
Step 3. Check the inscriptions engraved on the edge of the dial
Another symbol of authenticity are the engravings found on the edge of the dial which must be examined with a magnifying glass or by the jeweler. It must be thin, precise and elegant letters without any imperfections. They must also be engraved in the metal; if they look printed or painted, the watch is an imitation.
Usually all models of the Oyster series have these engravings. Those instead of the Cellini line often do not have standard models (rectangular dials and so on), so they may not have the engravings
Step 4. Check the crown logo on the dial
Virtually almost all of the Rolex production (but not all) bears this logo located at the top, at 12 o'clock on the dial. Check it out with a magnifying glass, as it often proves invaluable in establishing the authenticity of a specimen. It must be constructed of high quality metal. The circles at the end of the crown tips must be domed. The rim of the crown should shine with a different metallic sheen than the inside. If the logo looks flat, cheap and poorly printed, the watch is not a real Rolex.
Step 5. Check the perfection of the letters and numbers in the dial
Rolexes are the quintessential example of perfection, and even the smallest flaw could be an indicator that the watch is not original. Look carefully at the letters on the dial with the help of a magnifying glass. Each of them must be perfect, precise and must be composed of clean lines and harmonious curves. The spaces between one letter and another must be equal to each other. If you notice any irregularities in the spacing or the edges look smudged to you, then the printing technique may be of a lower quality than that used by Rolex.
It goes without saying that any spelling or writing errors are a huge red flag
Method 3 of 3: Judging the Seller's Honesty
Step 1. Be wary of shoddy packaging
Absolutely everything that accompanies a Rolex watch is of the highest quality, elegant and perfect, including packaging. Real Rolexes are sold in jewelery boxes that come with a stand for displaying the watch and a small cloth for cleaning and polishing the watch. All packages bear the name and the official Rolex logo. The manual and warranty certificate must be included. If even one of these elements is missing, the watch may be fake.
Buying a "naked" watch on the street is crazy, since there is neither the packaging nor the way to tell if it is authentic
Step 2. Be wary of opaque shops
When you decide to buy a Rolex, use common sense. A trusted jeweler or authorized watchmaker are the only sellers to turn to in this case, forget about any other dealer. A Rolex can cost several thousand euros, so it is natural to think that those who sell them are also able to demonstrate their originality and work honestly. If you are not sure whether the dealer is an official or reliable dealer, you can consult the list of authorized dealers on the Rolex website.
Pawn shops could be a risk; they may or may not have original Rolex watches, depending on who left the watch as a pawn or for sale. Some pawn shops go to great lengths to secure genuine products, but others turn a blind eye to counterfeits. If you are concerned that the store is not trustworthy, do your online research first and check with other customers before purchasing
Step 3. Beware of too low prices
When buying a Rolex watch, if the deal is too good to be true, it probably isn't a bargain. These are luxury items, built with perfection, and they are never cheap. The most expensive Rolex in the world far exceeds one million euros, but even the cheapest models do not fall below one thousand euros. If someone is offering you a Rolex for one hundred euros, no matter how many explanations the seller may offer, there is something wrong with the provenance of the watch or its authenticity.
Don't accept the excuses and justifications of unscrupulous sellers. If they tell you that the watch is being sold so cheaply because it was simply found or because it is a gift, leave. Remember that there are no lucky coincidences when it comes to spending money to buy a Rolex
Step 4. If you have no alternative, consult an experienced watchmaker
Sometimes, even when you know what to look for, it's impossible to tell a fake from an authentic watch. In this case, the best thing is to turn to a reliable and unquestioned honest technician who can examine the specimen to evaluate those details that a normal observer cannot grasp. If you have a good relationship with the expert he could also offer you his advice for free, otherwise you will be asked for a commission, not always cheap, but still convenient when compared to the price of a Rolex.
- For example, the average rate that jewelers can charge for this type of appraisal is around € 150 per hour. For this reason it is better to bring them more items to evaluate, in order to maximize the expense.
- Rely only on experts who require an hourly rate, per piece or who provide you with a quote based on the estimated time for the appraisal. Never trust those who ask for a percentage of the watch value, it is a scam technique.
Step 5. Finished
Advice
- Take the watch to an authorized Rolex watchmaker, they will open it and tell you if it is original.
- Enter the model name and serial number on Google to compare your watch with the original ones.
- If you have the box the watch is sold in, check it. The fake models come packaged in cheap wooden boxes such as plywood, and the inner padding is of poor quality suede.
- Look closely at the person who wants to sell you the watch. Be very careful if he claims to have bought it overseas or received it as a gift, it could be a fake.
Warnings
- Don't let the watch scratch your face while you sleep or do fairly heavy sports and activities.
- Rolex accessorised after purchase, such as those with diamonds on the dial, etc., are not covered by Rolex service.
- Wear it at home, but remember to take it off before taking a shower, unless it is water resistant.
- Make sure you don't lose your watch.
