Pat & Linda Parelli's natural method of riding is designed to teach human beings to establish a relationship of mutual respect and trust with horses; to do this we need to learn to communicate with them in their "language", which is essentially a non-verbal language. Just as we use letters to compose words, words to compose sentences, sentences to compose speeches, and so on towards an increasingly complex communication, the "Seven Games" were codified by Pat Parelli to be the first "ABC" of body language to learn and use with horses, and form the basis for the rest of the program (of which they are only the starting point, to then learn to communicate with horses in an increasingly evolved way). These games are based on the "games" (movement patterns) that horses continually play with each other to communicate and establish a hierarchical order. The first three games, the "basic" ones, aim to establish a relationship of trust and acceptance between you and the horse. For detailed examples of the Seven Games you can go directly to the Italian website https://www.istruttoriparelli.it or to Pat Parelli's official website www. ParelliConnect.com (in English), or you can read the ebook www.naturaliter.altervista. org / materials / parelli / Sette_Giochi.doc. For purposes closely related to this article, all Seven Games are held from the ground and with your horse on the rope.
Steps
Step 1. The Friendship Game
This game is intended to give your horse confidence in himself, his environment, you and what you are teaching him. In practical terms, this means getting your horse to the point where he is totally comfortable when you are close to him, when you touch him, and, as Parelli would say, "taking his time".
- Start by making sure your horse is comfortable with you around. The concept of "threshold" is very important at this stage. If he resists when you try to touch him, don't rush him. Use a string (or the Carrot Stick with a Savvy String, if you have them) and shake it gently on his neck, back, hindquarters, legs, etc. Use a light, steady pace. This exercise is a way of figuring out which areas your horse accepts you to touch and which ones he doesn't.
- A Carrot Stick is an important tool in the Parelli method, particularly in the Seven Games. The Carrot Stick is not a whip: it acts as an extension of your arm.
- For the Friendship Game, use these guidelines: rhythm, relaxation and retreat. If your horse is not comfortable with something, back off (retreat). Once the horse is comfortable wherever you touch it (with the Rope / Savvy String, Carrot Stick, and finally your hand), you are ready to move on to the next game.
Step 2. The Porcupine Game
This game is called this because it teaches the horse to move away from a pressure point or a "sensation". It is essential to be progressive in this game which means asking the horse to give you more with less stimulation.
- A good start is to place your hand on Zone 1 (the muzzle) and try to pull the horse back based on the touch. Slowly build up the pressure until it responds by backing off.
- The idea of having various "phases" is essential in this game. In the example above, Phase 1 is the one with the least possible pressure. Essentially it is the act of placing your hand on the horse. If the horse doesn't respond, move on to Phase 2 - a little more pressure. If that doesn't work, move on to Step 3 - even a little stronger. If he doesn't respond to Step 3, move on to Step 4 - any amount of pressure needed to get a response (this doesn't mean hitting him or anything like that). Getting to Stage 4 means that you have gradually increased the pressure. As soon as the horse responds, it releases the pressure completely.
- Over time, practice and repetition, the horse will need fewer stages to achieve the desired result. The moment you release the pressure is a variation of the Friendship Game: "You did what I wanted, so I'll take the pressure off".
- This game doesn't just apply to the muzzle. Use similar methods, bearing in mind the Four Phases, on the side, to make him lift one leg, turn his head, etc.
Step 3. The Game Guide
While the Hedgehog Game focuses on static pressure, the Driving Game is based on rhythmic pressure, or ultimately the "hint" of pressure. The Driving Game is a logical evolution of the Hedgehog Game.
- Apply the same Four Stages, except this time instead of using your hand to slowly increase the pressure or weight, you will use a Carrot Stick by giving the horse a "tap". Phase 1 is light, rhythmic taps, Phase 2 is a little harder, and so on. It is imperative that you maintain a steady pace throughout all phases - the speed and rhythm of the pressure doesn't have to change, just the amount of force exerted.
- This process can be applied to different movements. For more detailed descriptions check the links mentioned above.
Step 4. The Yo-Yo Game
It is very easy to see why this game got its name. Using the Four Phases, pull the horse back for a while and then use the retreat motion to bring him closer. As Pat says, "The better your horse backs up, the better everything else will do."
To make the horse back off, use the Four Phases. Phase 1 is a small movement (actually, shaking your finger counts as Phase 1), in Phase 2 the movement is more pronounced, and so on. Simultaneously with the phase change, assume a more convincing and stern gaze and a dominant body position. When you want it to come back to you, rewind the rope using a continuous movement, one hand after the other, with a calm and inviting expression. Body language is very important in the Seven Games, but it takes on particular importance in this part of the Yo-Yo Game
Step 5. The Circle Game
It is very important to note the difference between this game and spinning a horse along the lead. In the Circolo Game it is the horse's responsibility to maintain pace, speed, direction and concentration. It is not just mechanically going around in circles; he must do it in harmony with what you ask him. At the same time, you have to develop the three parts of the Circle Game: the sending, the permit and the return.
- Sending is just what it sounds like: sending the horse in a circle of defined circumference. To do this, stand in one spot and push it out to the end of the string. Then lead the horse forward until it begins to move in a circle, with the rope relatively taut. When the horse moves in a circle, it remains "neutral" (look in the same direction, do not follow the horse with the eyes and do not keep it under control). As long as it stays on the path, don't interfere. This is the permission.
- When you want to bring the horse back, use the same body language as when you brought it back in the Yo-Yo Game.
- Practice the Circle Game in both directions, varying the length and speed (stride and trot).
Step 6. The Side Steps Game
To begin, it is most effective to lead the horse in front of a wall or other type of barrier. Using rhythmic pressure with a Carrot Stick (without actually touching it, but waving the Stick and Savvy String near the rear), walk towards the horse, which has remained perpendicular to the barrier. This will not create perfect lateral movement, but alternating repetition and retreat will help avoid frustration as you try to achieve the desired result.
If you have any doubts that the horse is not responding well to this exercise, take a few pieces of fence or panels and walk on the opposite side while using the Carrot Stick as an extension of your arm to apply the pressure tip on the hindquarters
Step 7. The Strettoia Game
This game teaches the horse to be comfortable as it crosses narrow spaces by "squeezing" between objects. To start, these objects should be relatively far apart so the horse will want to try. For example, play the Circle Game a little closer than usual to a wall or barrier, with a slightly shorter distance. If you leave 3-4 meters of space between you and the barrier and encourage the horse to cross it, you are playing the game of the narrow passage.
Like when using Phases, the horse will feel more comfortable with smaller spaces as you play this game. It is a question of threshold. If the horse crosses the 4 meter space and not the 3 meter space, do not force him to cross the 3 meter space. Retreat, go back to 4 meters (or even 5) and slowly work on the threshold
Step 8. If you have completed these games, it does not mean that you are finished
You should keep doing them, or at least making references to them, whenever you are with your horse, whatever riding level you reach. The relationship with your horse will strengthen, and your riding level will improve accordingly. Again more information can be found in the links mentioned above.
Advice
- Don't start playing games and decide it's a waste of time - you have to go through with it. If you have done them well you will not regret it!
- Remember, the horse is seriously trying to do what you ask of it, so it should be rewarded, even if it doesn't turn out very well.
- Each training session should end with honors and some free time and play.
- Short, frequent sessions are better than long, less frequent sessions. They just get boring for you and the horse.
- Remember that everything you do with your hand should also be done with the Carrot Stick and the Savvy String, to show the horse that it is not a whip but an extension of your hand.
- Different horses learn differently. This article is for the more "normal" horse.
- It helps to know the history of your horse. Have you ever been trained with this method or another? Was he mistreated?
- Remember that it will take a lot of time and patience, and the horse won't do everything right the first time.
- Don't force the horse to do something it doesn't want to do. This will thin the bond of trust. If the horse doesn't seem comfortable with something, talk to him, tell him everything will be fine. Either way, don't praise him if he's misbehaving or scared. This will teach him to be scared instead of trusting.
- Remember: games are just the ABCs, with them you can start communicating with your horse in a very basic way. You may need a more "detailed" communication: if you feel in difficulty, don't risk it: contact an instructor! The Parelli method is designed first of all to remain safe.
Warnings
- Individual results may and will vary, so this is only a guideline. Almost nothing in horse training is written in stone.
- Never hit or scold your horse. It will only make him angry and things will get worse. Stay calm.
- Abused horse = be careful! He doesn't like it if you move your arms, push him, or pull the rope, so try to be gentle and very patient.
- If your horse is in a bad mood, don't even start. That will not work. Instead, just try playing the Friendship Game, petting it, and use it to build a bond with the horse.
- Training will be much harder with some horses.
- Even though it was the worst training session ever, always end on a positive note. Do you want the last thing your horse remembers is that you yelled at him? No. You want it to be the fact that you groomed him or played with him or just rewarded and stroked him.
- If you feel frustrated, the horse will feel that way too. Stop. You're not going anywhere. Take some time to relax, wait 10-15 minutes and start over.
