Do you want to make a Halloween mask with your own hands? Are you tired of buying pre-made ones or do you want to involve the children in a fun job? With materials available at any hobby store, or a well-stocked stationery store, you can make your own latex mask. Start by modeling the shape, then continue creating a cast, which will serve as a mold for the latex layer. It is an advanced level creative project, very fun to do.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Prepare the Material and Model the Shape
Step 1. Prepare the necessary materials
To make the mask you will need different types of material but, if you have any leftover, you can always keep it for future occasions. Here is the list of materials, available online and in well-stocked hobby stores:
- Paste for modeling the mask (Das or plasticine);
- A shape on which to model the mask, such as a polystyrene head;
- Industrial plaster for making the cast;
- Jute to make the three-dimensional cast;
- Good quality liquid latex, possibly specific for molds (Monster Makers RD-407);
- You can also use paints and decorations to apply on the mask, such as synthetic fur, feathers or sequins: it depends on the final look it will have to take.
Step 2. Heat the modeling clay
If you heat it slightly first, it will become more malleable. Put a few pieces of modeling dough in the oven for 15-20 minutes and at a low temperature (between 60 and 90 ° C).
- It must become warm to the touch and malleable, but not too hot.
- Don't let it melt.
Step 3. Prepare the print head
To shape the mask, you have to immobilize the head, fixing it to a solid wooden base such as a square plywood sheet, 30 x 30 cm wide.
Secure it with tape until it is secure
Step 4. Cover the head with paste and start modeling
Lay out a thick enough layer so you don't have to worry about it thinning too much over the course of your work.
- To do details such as skin folds or special effects, you can use your hands, specific modeling tools or tools you have at home (such as butter knives or puttying spatulas).
- Smooth the surface of the dough by brushing it with a flat brush soaked in trichlorethylene. When you are satisfied with the result, continue with the next step.
- It can take hours or even days to get the result you have in mind.
Part 2 of 3: Making the Cast
Step 1. Make a double cast
In order to transfer the sculpted model to the latex mask, you will need a double cast of industrial plaster, a porous material that allows the latex to penetrate during the creation phase of the mask (as explained in the next step).
The cast is nothing more than a three-dimensional mirror copy of the model you created in the previous step
Step 2. Create a divider for the double cast
First of all, cut out some jute squares 2.5 cm wide and set them aside. Then, with the modeling paste, create a divider all around the head: start from the base of the right ear and go upwards; goes beyond the top of the head and back down to the base of the left ear.
- This divider serves to separate the two halves of the cast.
- Mix the plaster with water and work it in a plastic bucket, then spread an even coat of this preparation on the model, trying to reach all the recesses of the template.
Step 3. Prepare more plaster
When the first coat is dry, prepare more plaster, mix it with the pieces of jute and spread a second coat, to reinforce the cast.
When the second coat is also dry, remove the divider
Step 4. Paint the front half of the mold
Use a brightly colored acrylic paint, which will help divide the halves later.
- When the paint is dry, proceed in the same way with the other half of the mold.
- When this half is also dry, slowly open the two halves. Use a butter knife, proceeding very carefully along the visible gap between one coat of paint and the other and being careful not to break the mold. When the two halves are separated, remove the head and modeling paste.
Part 3 of 3: Apply the Latex and Finish the Mask
Step 1. Pour the latex into the mold
Pour a good amount of latex into the mold, making sure to rotate it so that the liquid reaches all the recesses and that any air bubbles do not form.
You can use a small brush to reach the less accessible parts
Step 2. Turn the mold upside down to drain excess liquid
Collect it in a clean basin and return it to its container for future use.
- Every 5 minutes rotate the mold 90 degrees, so that the latex is evenly distributed.
- This will also prevent the latex from accumulating too much in one place.
- To speed up drying you can use a hairdryer at minimum power. In this way, about an hour should be enough.
- Repeat this process for at least six layers.
- If there is a dry climate where you live, leave the mold outdoors, in the fresh air, for a day. If the weather is humid, expect twice as much time: two days.
Step 3. Peel off the latex sheet
When everything is dry, before removing the latex, sprinkle the inside of the mask with talcum powder. Then proceed to detach the latex sheet, adding talcum powder between the latex and the plaster cast as you go.
The talc is used to make sure that the latex does not stick to itself. When you have completely removed the mask, finish the edges with a utility knife. Don't forget to drill two holes for the eyes
Step 4. Color the mask and define the details
In a series of jars, mix a small amount of acrylic paint in various colors with the latex. Remember to put the cap back on when you are not using the paint. The color of the liquid compound will appear much lighter than when it is dry: for example, a light pink, once dry, will turn blood red.
- Experiment until you get the desired shade of color.
- When you are done coloring the mask, decorate it with an old wig, feathers, sequins or other ornaments, which you can fix with some colored latex. Unleash your creativity and have fun!
