How to Create a Bonsai (with Pictures)

2024 Author: Samantha Chapman | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 09:13

The ancient art of bonsai making dates back over a thousand years. Although usually associated with Japan, it actually originates in China, where trees are normally associated with the religion of Zen Buddhism. Bonsai trees are currently used for decorative and recreational purposes, as well as traditional ones. By caring for it, the grower has the opportunity to take a contemplative, as well as creative, role in the growth of a symbol of natural beauty. Start reading this article to learn how to make your own.

Steps

Part 1 of 3: Choosing the Right Bonsai

Step 1. Select a tree species suitable for your climate

Not all trees are good. Many woody perennials and even some tropical types can be transformed into bonsai, but not necessarily any species will work for your specific geographic location. When selecting a species it is important to take the climate into consideration. For example, some trees die in freezing weather, while others actually require the temperature to drop below freezing so they can enter a dormant state and prepare for spring. This is especially true if you plan to keep the tree outdoors. The garden shop staff will be able to help you solve your doubts.

• A variety that is particularly suitable for beginners is juniper. This evergreen plant is hardy: it is found throughout the Northern Hemisphere and also in the more temperate regions of the Southern Hemisphere. Additionally, junipers are easy to grow - they respond well to pruning and other "training" efforts. Being evergreen, they never lose their leaves.
• Other conifers commonly grown as bonsai are pines, firs and cedars of many varieties. Hardwoods are another possibility: Japanese maples are especially beautiful, as are magnolias, oaks, and elms. Finally, some non-woody tropical plants, such as crassula ovata (called "jade tree") and serissa, are suitable for indoor environments in cold or temperate climates.

Step 2. Decide if you are going to keep the tree indoors or outdoors

The needs of bonsai can vary drastically according to their location. In general, indoor environments are drier and receive less light than outdoor ones, so you should choose trees that need little light and humidity. Below are some of the most common varieties of bonsai trees, grouped according to their propensity for indoor or outdoor environments:

• Interior:

  Ficus, Hawaiian Umbrella, Serissa, Gardenia, Camelia, Kingsville Boxwood.

• External:

  Juniper, Cypress, Cedar, Maple, Birch, Beech, Larch, Elm, Ginkgo.

• Some of the more resistant varieties, such as junipers, are suitable for both uses, as long as they are properly cared for.

Step 3. Select the size of your bonsai

There are several varieties. Their height can vary from 15 to 90 centimeters, depending on their species. If you choose to grow the bonsai from a seedling or a cutting from another tree, they can be even smaller. Larger plants require more water, soil and sunlight, so you need to make sure you have them available before making your purchase.

• Here are some things to consider:

  • The size of the container that will host it.
  • The space available at home or in the office.
  • The availability of sunlight at home or in the office.
  • The amount of care you are able to devote to your tree (larger size takes more time for pruning).

  

  Step 4. You must view the finished product while selecting the plant

  Once you have decided which type and size of bonsai you want, you can go to a nursery or specialist shop to select the plant that will become your bonsai tree. When choosing your plant, look for one with a healthy, vibrant green leaf to make sure it is healthy (keep in mind, however, that deciduous trees can have different colored leaves in the fall). Finally, after limiting your search to the healthiest and most beautiful saplings, you'll need to imagine what it will look like after pruning. Part of the fun of growing a bonsai is to gently prune it and shape it until it becomes exactly the way you want it, which can take years. You must choose a tree whose natural shape can be pruned and / or shaped according to the project you have in mind.

  • Note that if you choose to grow the bonsai from seed, you will have the ability to control the growth of your tree at almost all stages of its development. However, it can take up to 5 years for it to become an adult, depending on the species. For this reason, if you plan on pruning or shaping your tree (relatively) right away, you'd better buy a plant that has already grown.
  • Another possible option is to grow it from a cutting. It is a branch cut from a growing tree and transplanted into new soil to start a separate plant, but genetically identical to the previous one. Cuttings are a good compromise - they grow earlier than seeds and still offer a good deal of control over the tree's growth.

  

  Step 5. Choose a vase

  The distinctive feature of bonsai is that they are planted in pots that limit their growth. For this choice you need to make sure that the container is large enough to allow the earth to cover the roots of the plant. When you water it, it absorbs moisture from the soil through the roots. Without a small amount of soil in the pot, the roots of the tree cannot hold moisture. To avoid root rot, you will also need to make sure the pot has one or more drainage holes in the bottom. If they weren't there, you can always make them yourself.

  • Although the pot must be large enough to accommodate the tree, we recommend that you still maintain a clean and tidy aesthetic of your bonsai. Containers that are too large can make the tree itself smaller, giving it a quirky or staggered appearance. Buy a pot large enough to hold the roots, but don't overdo it: it must complement the tree aesthetically and be visually discreet at the same time.
  • Some prefer to grow bonsai in practical, essential containers, and then move them to prettier pots once they are grown-up. This process is especially useful if the bonsai tree species is delicate, as it will allow you to postpone purchasing a more artistic container until your plant is healthy and beautiful.

  Part 2 of 3: Potting an Adult Tree

  

  Step 1. Prepare the tree

  If you have just bought a bonsai in an unattractive plastic container, or you are growing one and want to finally transfer it to the "perfect" pot, you need to prepare it before transplanting it. First of all, make sure it has been pruned into the desired shape. If you want it to continue growing a certain way after pruning, you will need to gently wrap a sturdy wire around the stem or branch to direct its growth. It must be in perfect shape before being transplanted into the new pot and this process is quite burdensome for the bonsai.

  • Know that trees with seasonal cycles (for example many deciduous trees) are best transplanted in the spring. The increase in spring temperatures causes many plants to enter a state of greater growth; this means they will recover better from the stress of root pruning and trimming.
  • You need to reduce watering before repotting. Dry, loose soil can be much easier to work with than wet soil.

  

  Step 2. Remove the plant and clean the roots

  Carefully remove the plant from its current pot, being careful not to break or tear its main trunk. It is best to use a pot scoop to help lift the plant. Most of the roots will be cut off before they are repotted into the bonsai container. However, to get a good look at the roots, you usually have to brush off the dirt. Clean them, removing any lumps of dirt that may prevent you from distinguishing them well. Root rakes, chopsticks, tweezers and similar tools are very useful for this process.

  The roots don't have to be spotless, but enough for you to see what you're doing while pruning them

  

  Step 3. Prune the roots

  If their growth is not properly controlled, bonsai can easily outgrow their containers. To make sure your bonsai tree remains manageable and tidy, prune the roots while pruning. Cut off all large, thick roots, as well as any upward-pointing ones, leaving a web of longer, thinner ones near the surface of the soil. Water is absorbed by the root tips, so in a small container, many fine threads are generally better than just one, thick and deep.

  

  Step 4. Prepare the vase

  Before potting the bonsai, make sure you have a fresh, new soil base on which to place it so that it is at the desired height. Add a layer of coarse-grained soil to the bottom of the empty pot as a base. Then add a layer of growing medium or finer earth. Use a medium that can drain well: common garden soil can hold too much water and drown the tree. Leave a small amount of space at the top of the pot so that you can cover the plant's roots.

  If the plant you have chosen has a recommended soil composition type, it will grow best in those conditions

  

  Step 5. Plant the tree

  Place the plant in its new pot in the desired orientation. Finish by adding fine, well-draining soil or growing medium, taking care to cover the tree's roots. You can add a final layer of moss or gravel if you wish. In addition to being aesthetically pleasing, it can help hold the bonsai in place.

  • If the plant cannot stay upright in the new container, run a thick wire from the bottom of the pot through the drainage holes. Tie it around the roots to hold the bonsai in place.
  • We recommend adding mesh sieves to the drainage holes in the pot to prevent soil erosion, which occurs when water carries soil away from the pot through the drainage holes.

  

  Step 6. Take care of your new bonsai

  Your tree has just undergone a radical, somewhat traumatic process. For 2-3 weeks after repotting you will need to leave it in a semi-shaded area, protected from wind and direct sunlight. Water the plant, but don't use fertilizer until the roots have recovered. Allowing the bonsai to recover after repotting will allow it to adapt to its new "home" and, in the meantime, to thrive.

  • As just specified, deciduous trees with an annual cycle close their own period if spring growth was intense. For this reason it is better to prune the deciduous tree again in spring, after the period of winter stasis. If it is an indoor plant, after allowing it to re-root after repotting it is better to move it outside, where the increase in temperature and more sunlight can accelerate its natural "growth spurt".
  • Once established, you can experiment with adding more seedlings to its own container. If inserted and cared for carefully (like your tree), these additions will allow you to create a very pleasant composition. Try to use native plants from the same area as the bonsai, so that the water and light regime supports all the flora in the pot equally well.

  Part 3 of 3: Grow the Tree from the Seed

  

  Step 1. Choose the seeds

  Developing a bonsai from a single seed is a slow and extremely long process. Depending on the type of tree you want to grow, it can take up to four or five years to get a trunk with a diameter of about 1 cm. Some seeds also require precise controlled conditions for germination. However, this method is perhaps the most complete experience in bonsai creation, as it allows you to have total control over the growth of the plant from the moment it emerges from the ground. To get started, buy seeds of your favorite species at a garden store or collect them from the wild.

  • Deciduous trees, such as oaks, beeches and maples, are easily recognizable by the pods (acorns…) that the tree releases annually. Because of the ease with which their seeds are obtained, these types of trees are a great choice if you plan to grow a bonsai tree from seed.
  • Try getting fresh seeds. The period of possible germination of tree seeds is usually shorter than that of flower and vegetable seeds. For example, oak seeds (acorns) are "fresh" as soon as they are harvested in early autumn and when they retain their green color.

  

  Step 2. Allow the seed to germinate

  Once you have found the right seeds for your bonsai, you will need to take care of them to ensure they can germinate (germinate). In non-tropical areas, with well-defined seasons, seeds usually drop from trees in the fall, rest during the winter, before sprouting in the spring. The seedlings of plants native to these areas are usually biologically coded to germinate only after experiencing the cold temperatures of winter and the gradually increasing heat of spring. In these cases, it is necessary to expose your semen to these conditions or simulate them using a refrigerator.

  • If you live in a temperate environment with well-defined seasons, you can simply bury the seed in a small pot filled with soil and keep it out all winter and spring. Otherwise, you can keep the seeds in the refrigerator to simulate winter cold. Place the seeds in a zippered plastic bag with a loose, moistened growing medium (for example, with vermiculite) and take outside in the spring when you see the sprouts appear.

    To simulate the natural cycle of temperature, gradually decreasing and then increasing from late autumn until early spring, you will initially need to place the bag with the seeds in the lower part of the refrigerator. Over the next two weeks, you will have to take it away on the higher shelves, until it is placed next to the cooling unit. Then, at the end of winter, you will have to reverse the process, gradually moving the bag downwards

  

  Step 3. Arrange the seedlings in a tray or pot

  When the seedlings begin to sprout, get ready to start feeding them in a small container filled with potting soil of your choice. If you've allowed your seeds to germinate naturally outdoors, they can usually stay in the same pot. Otherwise, you can transfer the healthy seeds from the refrigerator to a pre-prepared jar or tray. Dig a hole for your seed and bury it there, so that the sprout is facing up and the tap root is facing down. Wet it immediately. Over time, try to keep the soil around the seed moist, but not soggy, avoiding mud that could cause the plant to rot.

  Do not use fertilizers until about 5-6 weeks after the plants have established themselves in their new containers. Start with an infinitesimal amount of fertilizer, as you could "burn" the young roots of the plant, damaging them from overexposure to the chemicals present

  

  Step 4. Keep the seedlings in a suitable temperature area

  As the seeds continue to grow, you will need to be careful not to expose them directly to cold temperatures or you will risk losing young seedlings. If you live in a location with a hot spring, you can gradually introduce the plants outside, in a warm but sheltered place, making sure that they are not too exposed to the wind or that they do not remain permanently in the sun, provided that species can survive naturally in the your geographical area. If you are growing tropical plants or germinating seeds out of season, then it may be best to keep the plants indoors or in a greenhouse, where it is warmer.

  Regardless of where you keep young seedlings, you need to make sure they get frequent, but not excessive watering. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy

  

  Step 5. Take care of the young seedlings

  Continue with your watering regimen and cautious sun exposure as the seedling grows. In deciduous trees, two leaflets, called cotyledons, will sprout directly from the seed before developing true leaves and continuing to grow. As the tree grows (usually this process takes years), increasingly larger pots can be used to accommodate growth until the desired size for the bonsai is reached.

  Once stabilized, you can leave the tree outside, in a place where it receives sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon, as long as the species is among those that can naturally survive in your geographic area. Tropical plants and other delicate bonsai varieties may need to be kept indoors perpetually if the local climate is not suitable

  Advice

  • Plant the tree in a large pot, letting it grow for a couple of years so that the base of the trunk becomes thicker.
  • Cutting the roots often helps the plant survive in a small pot.
  • A bonsai can also be created from other types of trees.
  • Allow the plant to grow until the following season before shaping and pruning it.
  • Take care of the tree and don't let it die.
  • Try to focus on basic tree styles (vertical, casual, and cascading).