For aficionados and growers of roses, there is nothing more frustrating than a dying rosebush; however, before you uproot it and throw it away, you can try a few procedures to make it flourish and restore it to the lush appearance of the past.
Steps
Part 1 of 4: Clean the Surrounding Area
Step 1. Clear the entire area around the bush
This is the first thing to do to save it, as weeds growing nearby can absorb nutrients from the soil.
- Collect fallen leaves and flowers by hand instead of using a rake, otherwise you could upset the balance of the soil and expose weed seeds to sunlight, thereby stimulating them to sprout.
- It is important to always remove dead leaves and flowers from the soil around the bush; they may seem harmless to you, but in reality if they get wet and don't dry properly, they can mold and infect the rose.
Step 2. Check the plant carefully for dead flowers and remove them
You can also detach those that remain attached to the stem, pruning them with shears as close as possible to the stem itself.
Step 3. Eliminate weeds surrounding the bush
You have to get rid of these weeds too; make sure to grab them firmly, as close to the base as possible to tear them as best as possible. Make sure you get rid of the roots as well, otherwise they can grow back in a few days.
Part 2 of 4: Prune the Bush
Step 1. Potalo
The ideal time is at the beginning of the milder season - usually right after the last frost - so that the roses are not in danger of being damaged by a new drop or sudden rise in temperature.
- You should cut it when the buds start to swell; inspect it for new leaves and when the buds start growing red.
- Sometimes, the procedure depends on the type of roses you have; some varieties require pruning during the dormant phase, while others require cutting after flowering. Generally speaking, you should take care while the bush is dormant if you see new blooms developing in the spring; otherwise, if you notice that the flowers are sprouting from the old stems, pruning should be done at the end of flowering.
Step 2. Use proper shears and make sure they are sharp
You don't have to cause major damage to the stems by using blunt blades; furthermore, do not make straight cuts, but diagonally, because in this way you favor a faster healing of the "wound".
Do not hesitate to remove all diseased or dead stems before they begin to infect the healthy ones; it cuts away even the old ones to make room for the new ones
Step 3. Know where to prune
Thin out the central portion to ensure good air circulation and avoid the development of fungi that thrive in humid conditions. This technique also allows for better exposure of the branches to the sun. You should also remove any growths that develop on the main stems and do not reach an acceptable thickness; if the stem is thinner than a pencil, you should prune it.
Cut off dead or old stems where they graft onto new ones; you can recognize a dead or diseased stem with dead leaves and a woody, dry, brown appearance
Step 4. Prune the bush too large
If it looks like a large, intertwined reed shrub (basically a messy tangle), prune it. Most plants in these conditions have dead and sterile stems; do not hesitate to remove all those you deem necessary.
Part 3 of 4: Fertilize the Rose
Step 1. Enrich the soil with nutrients
To make the bush bloom again and restore it to good health, you need to make sure the land is fertile; water it before evenly adding fertilizer around the plant to the outer perimeter and then pour in more water. To enrich the soil use:
- 200 g of bone meal or monocalcium phosphate;
- 200 g of cottonseed flour;
- 100 g of blood meal;
- 100 g of fish meal;
- 100 g of Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate).
Step 2. Remember that if necessary, you can fertilize before spring arrives
Most gardeners proceed early this season; if you notice that the bush is spawning new buds, you can even start a little early. The rose needs more nourishment as it grows and sprouts.
During peak growth, sprinkle fertilizer every 4-6 weeks
Step 3. Make sure you water before and after adding the nutrients
This way, you prevent the fertilizer from burning the bush.
Step 4. Put the mixture directly on the base of the plant
If it comes into contact with the leaves, it could burn them and cause them to wilt; for this reason, apply it directly to the ground.
Part 4 of 4: Distribute the Mulch and Water the Rose
Step 1. Cover the surrounding soil with a layer of mulch at least 3-5 cm thick
In this way, the earth retains moisture for the roots and the growth of weeds is discouraged; remember that weeds deprive the bush of nutrients and hydration.
If the area around the plant has good drainage, you can spread a 5-10 cm layer of mulch; if the drainage is poor, you should opt for a smaller amount, so as not to "drown" the rose
Step 2. If you have a weed problem, use newspaper mulch
It is highly recommended to use paper and cardboard to get rid of stubborn pests; you just need to place the sheets on the area and ballast them with traditional mulch. This barrier prevents the sun from reaching the seeds of the herbs and causing them to germinate.
Step 3. Provide the bush with all the water it needs
In regions where temperatures reach 32 ° C and during the summer, it is recommended to wet it constantly for 15 minutes every day; in winter proceed instead with watering every other day.
