How to Restore a Spontaneous Lawn: 8 Steps

2024 Author: Samantha Chapman | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 09:13

A spontaneous lawn is an ecological system dominated by grass, common in areas where rainfall is scarce for the growth of trees. Planting a spontaneous lawn is an undertaking that is worth your time and effort. Not only does it promote the biodiversity of wild species and preserve the rapidly disappearing soil, but a spontaneous lawn also needs little maintenance (compared to a mowed lawn, so it reduces the waste of resources and increases free time) and is aesthetically pleasing, once started. By following these guidelines, you will be able to plant, maintain and restore a spontaneous lawn.

Steps

Step 1. Choose the right place

When choosing a seat, first of all take into account your location. Are you in an area where there has always been grassy ground? Or do you live in a mostly wooded area? You can recover a spontaneous lawn only in places where this form of vegetation has been present for at least a century. Look for a place with maximum exposure to the sun and that is not very wooded, especially trees with very shallow roots shade the lawn and subtract nutrients from the soil and water. Pines and conifers are among them. These trees are found in mountainous areas with harsh climates, and are peculiar to areas where spontaneous meadows are not widespread.

• Prepare the seat of your choice. In early / mid-spring, clear the area of pre-existing vegetation. If you sow on a pre-existing layer of vegetation you will have little chance of success, especially if it outclasses the seedlings trying to take root. You must remove all the weeds, peat and other vegetation existing in the place you have chosen. Be aware, however, that many weeds may be native to the area. Do not always consider them non-original.

• If you want to avoid a chemical process and prefer a more natural method, you can always weed them out by hand. This process will take more time and effort, but it will allow you to completely eliminate them.

  

• The spontaneous meadows were regenerated through forest fires. Depending on the legal and morphological situation of the place, it is possible to operate through controlled fires. Generally you have to contact the local authorities. A common mistake would be to start a controlled fire during the spring, thinking it is more controllable. From an ecological point of view, spring fires are of little advantage. You could try instead in summer, always paying close attention. It would be better to burn small areas at a time, always supervised by firefighters.

  

• A method from Not To clean up the area is definitely the use of glyphosate-based herbicides such as Roundup. For years they were promoted as safe for the ground because they became inactive after a short time. Hence their widespread use as herbicides that left no residue was widespread and considered safe. However, these claims have been disproved and Roundup manufacturer Monsanto has lost several lawsuits around Europe, having been accused of knowingly lying about the residual effects and harmlessness of their product. In addition, glyphosates are believed to be the main cause of the disappearance of honey bees and other pollinators. This phenomenon was found mainly in corn and soybean fields pre-treated with Roundup. Know that these herbicides infiltrate nearby water sources (streams, ponds or lakes) and are lethal to many amphibians. Look for a herbicide that is natural or harmless to animals, especially bees. This will make your spontaneous lawn a self-sufficient ecosystem.

  

• If the vegetation present is dense, it will be necessary to remove the dead plants. You can burn them or mow them and then reuse them as fertilizer or rake them away. Also consider using livestock that graze grass from the area if mowing is impractical. Herbivores such as cattle or sheep are a more natural choice on reclaimed land, compared to a waste of time, money and fuel.

Step 2. Create a seedbed of fresh soil and loosen the soil to a maximum depth of 10 cm with a rotary tiller

Remember that weed seeds usually sit dormant beneath the soil surface and germinate once in contact with sun and rain. If the area is full of weeds, especially weeds such as weeds, thistle, milkweed, or sweet clover, germinate and grow, then repeat the removal and hoeing. This second repetition is optional, but guarantees a more fertile seedbed. Finally, rake the soil to create a good seedbed. The raking improves the conditions, giving the seeds a better contact with the ground, and therefore the possibility to germinate and grow.

• If the soil doesn't have enough organic material and looks more clay-like, add a thin layer of peat (max.1.25 cm deep) and mix everything up with the tiller.
• Do not add chemical fertilizer. See the "Warnings" section at the end of the article.

Step 3. Plant the seeds

The best time for planting is from early spring to late summer. In seed beds prepared in places where other plants are present, winter sowing can also be productive.

• The recommended sowing density is 500 cubic centimeters per square meter. Get seeds that are widespread in the surrounding local areas, as they will suit the place better. See the tips at the bottom for details on preparing seeds.

  Before buying seeds, it is imperative to do research on the types of weed that are native to your area. Some plants found along roads or at the edge of fields may not be native to the area. While it is virtually impossible to avoid the growth of non-native species, you can instead learn to identify plants that are already widespread in the area and determine whether they are local or not. Plant books covering your area can help you evaluate and examine certain types of plants, and if you can take courses to learn how to identify local plant types

• Manual sowing is the simplest and most reliable method, manual seed spreaders can be useful with grass seeds, but they tend to get clogged. Wildflower seeds should always be planted manually.

  Also for flowers always make sure they are local species

• Plant the grass seeds first. To ensure even coverage, divide the seeds into two halves and spread the first one over the entire area, work slowly and with a lot of concentration. Spread the second half of the seeds perpendicular to the first. Rake the area lightly to ensure seed contact with the soil.
• Wildflower seeds should be planted last, they can be spread evenly or concentrated in strips along your lawn. Many of these seeds are small in size. For best results, spread them sparsely. Do not rake the flower seeds.
• Watering at this point is advisable, but not necessary. The spontaneous plants of the area should be accustomed to the rainfall situation of the place, and watering would encourage the growth of non-native species. If you decide to water, you need to keep doing it until the seedlings are rooted. Watering initially and then stopping can have disastrous effects on the shoots.
• Fertilizers are not needed. Studies have shown that using fertilizer on grassy grounds has no effect on plant growth and can promote the growth of non-native ones. Watering can also encourage weed growth in your soil to be recovered.

Step 4. Plant potted seedlings

If you want to add them, you have to do it after planting. These seedlings can be planted from spring to early winter, but remember that they need more water in the summer. You can plant them wherever you want. Rain will provide enough water, but an additional dose of water may be needed in the first 10 days.

If you are planting seedlings in pots yourself, know that they must germinate about 8 weeks before being transferred to the soil and they must be prepared for the environment about a week before being planted in the lawn. Preparing them means gradually getting them used to being outdoors, leaving them in the lawn a little more every day

Step 5. Mulching

Although not necessary, this process controls soil erosion and helps maintain the moisture level in the soil. Lay thin layers of oats or wheat on the surface of the soil (the latter must remain visible under the wires). Do not use hay for this process as it may contain seeds that should not mix with the soil.

Method 1 of 1: Lawn Maintenance

The lawn takes time to grow, and requires patience and painstaking care the first few years, but by following these tips correctly it will turn into a magnificent natural and self-sufficient garden

Step 1. First year:

most of the wild plants are evergreen. Although the seeds of evergreen plants germinate during the first year, the seedlings may only start sprouting from the second or third year. While this situation can be frustrating, remember that this is the process that makes them need little maintenance once they grow up.

In this early stage of growth, weeds will take advantage of the sparse vegetation above ground level and take over. To minimize the effect you will need to plan to cut the seedlings sown, two or three times a year, during the first season. This process is generally done every 30 days, using a scythe, lawn mower or brush cutter. Mowing is often the best method, as an irregular removal would open the soil in various places, favoring the growth of the seedlings sown. The height of the cut should be between 10 and 16 cm. The mower is also effective, but you have to keep the blade as high as possible. Manual weeding is another useful tool during the first year, especially for removing harmful weed. Weeds and woody plants should be removed with the use of sprays as needed. Also consider using livestock such as sheep or goats to remove these weeds and to produce natural fertilizer for the soil. Goats and sheep have less impact than larger animals such as cows or horses which will trample and spoil the soil (making holes in the ground) and eradicate native plants that are creating their root system

Step 2. Second year:

during the second year of growth, there will be residual germinations from the first year and faster growing plants will begin to take root. A mowing will probably be needed between mid-June and mid-August to keep weeds under control. Their height and density will determine how this is done. In areas where weeds are dominant, the benefit of cutting them and preventing them from stabilizing outweighs any disadvantages of cutting lawn plants. Localized spray may be needed during this year. However, both mowing and spraying should be considered optional; during this time you can start introducing grazing animals such as cows to keep weeds and grass growth in check. The action of the hooves and their grazing will favor the growth of plants which is however difficult to predict, based on the plants grown, the time and duration of the animals' action.

Step 3. Third year:

from the third year onwards your patience will begin to pay off. The fullness and beauty of the grass and plants will provide you with a low effort reward. One pruning per year may be sufficient as a cleaning. The best time to prune is in early May or late November (after enjoying the wonderful shades of a spontaneous autumn meadow). In areas with dense vegetation, rake away dead plant residues. Remember, as we have already said, to let cattle graze to maintain a natural spontaneous meadow. You will probably prefer to use animals instead of having to mow or rake several times a year. And they will also provide you with the natural fertilizer you need to ensure the growth of your plants. These animals are also decisive in fighting the invasion of shrubs and bushes.

Advice

• Another way to get rid of non-native plants and their seeds that can remain inactive in the soil for years, is to cover the area with transparent plastic that will create a greenhouse effect capable of germinating the non-native seeds which will then be burned by the sun. through the clear plastic. You could also use black plastic which would kill weeds that have already germinated, but clear plastic is better. You can then manually remove dead plants and plant your lawn seeds.
• Some seeds may need scarification to germinate (the action of scratching or carving the outside of the seed shell). The seeds develop a thick rind to survive the processes of ingestion and digestion, and only germinate after it is formed. You can simulate scarification by rubbing the seeds between two sheets of sandpaper, or rough material, for about 15 seconds.
• When you buy seeds ask if they have been "stratified" because without stratification the seeds could germinate in late winter and freeze to death due to too low temperatures. If the seeds are not stratified, you can encourage this process by keeping them in your garage or other protected but cold places, in the winter months, or storing them, dry or damp, in the refrigerator for about 8-10 weeks (16 weeks for some species).
• Fire is another tool for removing old lawn residue. In natural ecosystems, fire not only clears away residue build-ups, it also helps reduce invasion of woody plants and stimulates the growth of many native plant species and wildflowers. The alternation between controlled fires and pruning is ideal for wild meadows and savannah. The best time to plan a controlled fire is early spring.
• After starting the fire, the area appears darkened and there shouldn't be many plants left. Roots of native plants are fire resistant (unlike non-native ones that burn and die), so they are likely to reappear after a couple of weeks.
• If you don't want to use the fire method, you can use grass-grazing animals. The fertilizer that comes from their manure has the natural ability to remove vegetation, and may be more practical than controlled fires or area mowing.

Warnings

• Never use chemical fertilizer. The native plants adapt very well to their environment and do not need it. This product, enemy of the environment, is not only useless in a natural area, but it is harmful because it can cause the growth of unwanted vegetation.

  The only exception is animal manure

• Fires are dangerous, especially if they are not properly controlled and planned. A controlled fire is a useful tool, but it requires a lot of experience and long planning. Check out the legal regulations on controlled fires and permitted procedures before starting.
• When producing a fire, always pay close attention. Have the number of the nearest fire station handy in case things go wrong.

• During periods of drought, tall grass and plants increase the risk of accidents during controlled fires. This condition causes the rapid spread of fire over large areas in a short time. Areas that have not been burned for a long time are more likely to produce intense fires.

  Keep in mind that all plants, of any kind, will be on fire. There are no plants that don't burn. The only plants that burn with difficulty are those that grow close to the ground and do not produce waste after the fire, or adult plants

• Do not restore spontaneous lawns near houses or buildings. It could cause a lot of damage.