A well-laid synthetic grass lawn requires no maintenance except an occasional sprinkle to keep it clean. The installation is a complex and intense job, especially if it involves large surfaces; "recruit" then some robust friends to help you.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Prepare the Surface
Step 1. Distribute herbicide over the various areas
If there are plants or greenery in the areas where you want to lay the artificial turf, start by spraying a product to remove everything. Do this at least two weeks before starting the project and allow time for the herbicide to do its job. This will help make sure the plants are dead to the roots.
Step 2. Remove the top layer of the soil
If you are going to lay the artificial turf on the ground, dig to remove the first sod that is 8-10 cm deep to make room for the new substrate. Remove all grass and other plants to prevent an uneven surface from forming when the vegetation dies.
- Before digging, wait a few days for the rain-soaked soil to dry completely; by doing so, you avoid possible sagging.
- Although it is not necessary for the remaining earth to remain perfectly level, it is advisable to compact any loose clod by walking on it or using a hand tool. It is important to maintain a certain slope to ensure rainwater drainage.
Step 3. Consider drainage
Artificial turf laid on top of well-draining soil usually has no major problems, as synthetic turf is permeable and the inert base that will be described below provides an additional layer to get rid of the water. If you have decided to place the lawn on a surface that does not drain well or on a hard material such as concrete, you must take these precautions:
- If there is no drain system near the lawn, you need to build one before continuing.
- If there is little rain in your region, a small drain every six inches around the perimeter of the lawn may be sufficient.
Step 4. Lay the border
Place a waterproof border around the perimeter of the affected area if it isn't already there. In this way, the grass will not sag and will not separate over time. The most common and effective choice is plastic edging.
- If you want to do more complex renovations, you can create a concrete curb around the area where you will be laying the lawn.
- Make sure the edge does not exceed the level of the grass, otherwise it hinders the drainage process.
Step 5. Add a weed barrier (optional)
If you are concerned that weeds may grow between the stems of the artificial one, place a geotextile barrier on the surface you have excavated. This way, you can prevent rodents and earthworms from burrowing through the synthetic lawn.
- Keep in mind that a geotextile barrier must be bought in a specialized shop;
- You can decide to place the barrier on top of the substrate;
- If you have a serious problem with rodents, consider replacing the geotextile material with wire mesh.
- Contact professionals to eliminate rodents. If you don't solve the rodent problem completely, they could ruin your artificial garden.
Part 2 of 3: Lay the Base
Step 1. Add the substrate
Purchase fine gravel, crushed granite or crushed stone, the particles of which are less than 10mm in diameter. Fill the area you dug with this material, until you make a layer of 8-10 cm; in this way, you avoid structural failure and improve water drainage.
- You will need about 0.8m3 of material for every 10 m2 of lawn. For each specific product you can find more correct estimates regarding volume and coverage.
- If you are laying the lawn on top of concrete or another hard surface, you can use rubber cushioning mats or self-leveling compound. Alternatively, skip this step if you are sure that the area has an adequate slope to completely drain the water and that it is possible to cover it entirely with artificial turf.
- If there are children playing on the artificial garden, an anti-shock layer will be needed for safety reasons.
Step 2. Level the substrate
Use a rake to smooth the base. Use a spirit level, string or ruler to make a 2-3% slope (a 2-3 meter drop in height every 100 meters) to the drain or edge.
Step 3. Moisten and compact the base
Wet the gravel with the garden hose to lubricate the particles and prepare them for the consolidation phase. Use a plate, roller or manual compactor to press the material into a solid base, reducing the layer thickness by 10% or even more (about 1cm for a 10cm thick layer). You will likely have to press the surface several times to achieve this.
- A vibrating plate compactor is the most effective tool for this.
- You can find these machines at hardware stores and garden centers that offer a rental service. If you opt for the manual compactor, its purchase is cheaper than renting.
Step 4. Unroll the turf alongside the surface to be covered while the substrate dries
Spread out the artificial turf somewhere, as it will need a couple of hours to recover its original shape after being transported in rolls. Wait until the base is dry and make sure it has a smooth, firm surface before continuing.
- If the substrate is not smooth, you will need to compact it again.
- If the base is lower than you expected, you will need to lay more gravel and compact it again, so that the synthetic turf and surrounding surfaces line up properly.
Part 3 of 3: Lay the Lawn
Step 1. Lay down the turf
Measure the area you want to spread the lawn on, as well as the width and length of the grass strips. With the help of another person, stretch each strip and rest it on the base you have prepared. Do not drag the lawn over the gravel to avoid moving it.
In most artificial lawns, the artificial grass stems are bent in one direction. Lay the strips so that all the stems face the same direction, otherwise the grass will look less natural
Step 2. Cut the strips where needed
You can use a carpet cutter or small knife to cut the lawn on the underside and adjust it to the shape of the perimeter.
When making long cuts, work small segments at a time, comparing the edges often to make sure there are no large gaps. Alternatively, you can draw the cut line along the bottom side of the strip
Step 3. Get a carpet stretcher (optional)
For best results, use this tool that allows you to pull the synthetic grass strips before sewing or fastening them as described below. Press the stretcher onto the lawn, taking care to point the bristles down, and vigorously hit the padded end with your knee. This process eliminates wrinkles, reduces heat expansion and improves adhesion to the ground.
This tool is also known as a carpet elbow tensioner
Step 4. Sew the strips of lawn together
There are many techniques for joining the various synthetic turf clods. The product offered by the same parent company as the lawn generally offers the best results, since it is specific to the material and type of sod you have purchased. Here are some solutions:
- Line up two adjacent strips, fold the edges back and lay the fixing material on the substrate which is now visible. Coat this material with the adhesive provided and return the edges of the sod to the starting position. Wait for the glue to dry.
- Alternatively, spread a seam band or sturdy outdoor duct tape on the ground, then lay the two strips of lawn over it.
- The third option is to fix the clods with staples, one every 7-8 cm.
Step 5. Snap the lawn around the perimeter
Use galvanized poles or outdoor staples to secure the outer edge of the artificial turf, insert one every 6 inches. Use a hammer to flatten them, but don't overdo it, or you will leave marks on the lawn.
To ensure maximum sealing, arrange the posts out of phase along opposite sides, rather than aligning them perfectly
Step 6. Add infill or filler material suitable for the type of grass
Almost all synthetic lawns must be covered with particles that allow the blades of grass to remain vertical, which ballast the strips and absorb impacts during sports activities. Apply a thin layer of infill while the grass is still dry, using a spreader or by hand. Repeat this process until the blades of grass are covered about half of their length. If you want to get good results, use the material recommended by the lawn manufacturer and stick to the recommended dosages. These are the most common solutions:
- Washed silica sand to ballast the lawn. If the type of artificial turf you have chosen needs a infill, sand alone may not be enough.
- Black rubber chips to cushion impacts and provide more support to the grass stems. This material could create a lot of clutter if the lawn is laid on a surface with a large slope or if pets use it for their needs.
- Inert granular copper slag absorbs pet odors better than any other material.
- Some very dense lawns don't need infill; however, many professional installers prefer to add it anyway, to strengthen the coating. This detail is the subject of a lively debate.
Step 7. Brush the lawn after each infill application
Once the material is raked, use a rotary brush to "revive" the grass and lift the stems. If you can't get this tool, use a stiff nylon bristle brush or carpet comb.
Step 8. Wet the grass
This allows the infill or ballast to settle. Check the material the next day to see the final result. If the lawn isn't springy enough or the grass blades are too exposed, spread another layer of infill.
