Red weed is an invasive weed species common in many parts of the world. If left unchecked, it can spread in no time. The key to stopping it is to completely eliminate the rapidly expanding root system. One of the most effective ways to do this is by spraying it with a powerful herbicide like glyphosate until it turns brown and starts to rot. If you'd rather not use harsh chemicals in your garden, try smothering the grass with a layer of cardboard and mulch, burning it with sunburn, or simply tearing it by hand.
Steps
Method 1 of 5: Smother the Root System with Cardboard
Step 1. Pull out the most abundant growths by hand
Before you can suffocate the weeds, you will need to remove as much of the weeds as possible from the affected area. Grab the clumps close to the ground and pull them hard upwards until the roots are uprooted. Clearing the ground will help you avoid new growths, making coverage more effective.
- Use a bag or wheelbarrow to throw away the weeds, so you don't risk scattering small parts around the garden. You should throw it in the trash right away instead of using it for composting so it can't spread.
- If you'd rather not weed the grass by hand, you can try mowing the lawn very low.
Step 2. Cover the weed with two or three layers of cardboard
This material acts as an insulator, preventing the roots from reaching sunlight, moisture and nutrients. Two layers are enough for the type of weeds that grow in most gardens. If you have a severe infestation, use three layers.
- Most home improvement stores sell cardboard sheets at low prices. If you want to spend even less, look for boxes to throw away or recycle.
- Overlap the edges of all sections to prevent grass from getting in between the layers.
- If you don't have cardboard, you can use several layers of wet newspaper.
- You can also be successful by using mulch sheeting instead of cardboard, to achieve the same effect in areas where the ground cover is not very dense.
Step 3. Shovel some mulch on top of the cardboard
Create a layer of about 10-15cm. This way, you will still be able to plant small flowers and bushes without risking exposing the roots of the weed. Once you've spread the mulch, gently compact it with the flat side of a spade or trowel.
You can use any garden mulch or choose a 100% organic mix of vegetable waste and compost
Step 4. Wait two to six months for the cover to remove the roots
In the meantime, avoid disturbing the mulch or cardboard underneath as much as possible. After a long time without water, sunlight and nutrients, the weed will not survive.
- Light roofs will be destroyed after a few months; more severe infestations require more patience.
- If you want to check the effectiveness of the method, dig a small section of the cardboard and lift it, so that you can observe the ground below.
Method 2 of 5: Smother the Red Grass with Mulch Cloths
Step 1. Eliminate as much grass as possible
Shear the weed very close to the ground and uproot it by hand. Removing most of the weeds slows their growth a lot, giving the canopies time to do their job.
The shorter grass is also distributed more evenly under the cloth
Step 2. Place a mulch cloth over the affected area
Spread and stretch it over the parts of the garden where the infestation is most severe. Make sure it's smooth and flat. These sheets are ideal for covering large areas of land where weeds grow abundantly.
- Cut the tarp as required to cover tight areas or areas with unusual geometry.
- Be careful not to tear, wrinkle or damage the tarp in any way while handling it.
Step 3. Drill holes in the mulch to make room for the plants
Use a pair of scissors or a knife to drill holes large enough for existing plants to grow. If you plan on adding more plants in the future, wait until you are ready to plant them before drilling new holes. This will reduce the places where weeds can come out of the tarp.
- Do not drill holes larger than necessary to make room for the plants. If you do, you will soon realize that the weed has spread to all available spaces.
- Only drill holes for bushy or other evergreen plants. Growing seasonal plants would force you to remove the canopy too often.
Step 4. Cover the tarp with a 10-15cm thick layer of mulch
It needs to be deep enough for you to plant other plants in the future. Leave 5-8cm of space around the base of existing plants, so as not to suffocate the roots and stems.
Select a mulch mix that contains the moisture and nutrients needed for your existing plants to thrive
Step 5. Periodically inspect the area around the tarp for new weeds
The compact material will stop the growth of the underlying roots within about six to eight weeks. In the meantime, keep an eye on the edges and openings to make sure the weed hasn't infiltrated. Pull out any clumps you see by hand.
- Mulch sheets are a quicker alternative to covering cardboard and mulch. However, they leave more growth opportunities for stubborn weeds if they are not installed and maintained properly.
- You shouldn't plant a lawn on top of a mulch cloth.
Method 3 of 5: Solarize the red grass
Step 1. Mow the weeds
Mow them just above ground level to remove as much of it as possible. The smaller the extent of the infestation, the easier it will be to eradicate it.
- Cut the grass by hand or with a brush cutter where you can't get to with the lawn mower.
- This method works best in the summer, or in regions with hot, dry climates that receive a lot of direct sunlight.
Step 2. Spread a clear plastic sheet over the infested areas
Make sure the plastic is smooth over the affected area, with no creases or wrinkles. The transparent material amplifies the sun's rays, using its heat to literally burn the weed. For large areas, it may be necessary to use multiple overlapping sheets.
- If necessary, cut the sheet to the size and shape required to cover the parts of the lawn infested with red weed.
- Gardeners and landscape architects often refer to the method of using concentrated UV light to eliminate invasive species as "sunburn".
Step 3. Secure the perimeter of the plastic
Secure the edges with gardening metal stakes or heavy stones at a distance of a few tens of centimeters from each other. When you have anchored the tarp well, you will not have to worry that animals or wind blows can lift it.
To make sure that the plastic does not move, bury the edges with about 10 cm of soil
Step 4. Leave the plastic on for four to six weeks
Every day, the intense heat and light will burn the weeds. The remaining leaves will dry out and become brittle, eventually leading to the death of the entire root system. Just keep tending your garden as you always have and make sure the plastic isn't damaged or loose.
A benefit of the plastic cover is that it allows you to check your progress without having to temporarily remove it
Method 4 of 5: Weeding the Red Weed by Hand
Step 1. Mow the grass
You may need to pass the lawn mower a couple of times over the spots where the infestation is worst before moving on to digging. Clearing the infested areas early allows you to reach the roots without losing too much soil.
Step 2. Dig the grass under the root
Use a hand trowel to loosen the soil well under the roots. Then, it uproots the entire structure intact; it should do little resistance. Throw the uprooted clumps into a plastic bag or wheelbarrow so they don't stay in contact with the earth.
- Any live roots you won't notice can find their way back into loose soil and cause the infestation to return.
- If you are worried about losing your precious soil, put the clumps on a tarp and let them dry in the sun for a full day, then shake the soil attached to the roots and put it back in the garden.
Step 3. Sift the soil under the grass to remove any remaining roots
Inspect the loose area carefully, looking for any roots and parts of leaves you left behind. Collect all the remains you see by hand. Make sure you don't leave any visible traces when you're done.
- Take a close look at your garden or lawn for weeks to come to make sure a new strain of weeds hasn't replaced the old one.
- Weeding out a large area of red weed one stump at a time can be tedious, but it is one of the cheapest and most meticulous ways to make sure you get rid of the infestation forever.
Method 5 of 5: Apply a Chemical Herbicide
Step 1. Purchase some glyphosate
This active ingredient in many herbicides is a common choice for stopping the spread of invasive weeds such as red weeds. Look for herbicide at local garden supply stores. They are usually sold in spray form, so that entire areas of the lawn can be coated with ease.
- Remember that glyphosate is not a selective herbicide; this means that it is harmful to all plants it comes into contact with and not just to weeds.
- Remember that glyphosate is toxic, so you should use it carefully. Make sure you follow all instructions on the label and wear protective equipment.
Step 2. Water the lawn well for a week or two before applying the herbicide
Use a low pressure water pump on the red weed twice a day, just to get it wet. Water helps the leaves grow green and lush. This helps the chemical herbicide to do its job, because it is absorbed by the leaves and not the roots.
- If you water your lawn with a sprinkler, wet the grass at regular intervals.
- The best time to use herbicides to combat stubborn red weeds is spring or summer, when the leaves are absorbing more nutrients.
Step 3. Spray glyphosate on the grass
Coat the infested area evenly with a generous dose of herbicide. When absorbed by the leaves, it will begin to break down the enzymes necessary for the weed to grow. Let the grass dry in the sun and avoid mowing or getting it wet for the following days.
- Follow the instructions on the label carefully so you can use the chemical safely and correctly.
- When working with glyphosate, it's a good idea to wear gloves and a mask or respirator to protect your airways.
Step 4. Repeat the treatment until the weeds are eliminated
The red weed is a particularly stubborn and resistant species, so an application of herbicide will rarely be enough. Continue to treat the lawn once a week to counter the spread of the infestation. You may have to repeat the process up to five times to completely neutralize the weed.
- Before dying, the red weed dries up and begins to turn brown.
- Be sure to look for any spots where weeds can grow unnoticed.
- Be aware that applying the herbicide makes it difficult to grow other plants in the future. It is best to wait at least two months before planting any plants in the soil that has undergone the treatment.
Advice
- For the health of your lawn, it's best to start with the least destructive solution (such as manual weeding or choking) and only try the more aggressive methods later.
- Frequent mowing can help slow the spread of red weed by preventing the seed head from developing.
- If you are unable to eradicate red weed on your own, call a specialist gardener to investigate your problem.
