Whether you're getting ready for a costume party, making a costume for a comedy or Halloween, a plaster mask is an inexpensive and full of potential option. Make one with the kids or use the technique to create an elaborate work of art. This article describes the basic steps to create a full or half mask.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Part One: Prepare the Model and Workspace
Step 1. Prepare the area where you will work
Choose a room where you have a lot of space because working with chalk creates a mess. Arrange newspapers or a cloth on the floor. Keep towels handy in case something runs out.
Step 2. Prepare everything
Cut the bandages. You will need enough strips to make three layers on the face.
- The strips should be approximately 5-7.5x7.5 in length.
- Make some longer, shorter, larger and smaller. You'll have to cover our entire face.
- Put the strips in a bowl. Prepare a second bowl filled with hot water that you will use to moisten the strips.
Step 3. Prepare your model
The person who lends the face must wear clothes that can be dirty without problems.
- Decide how much of the face you want to cover. Better talk to the model to hear how he feels better. If you want to cover your entire face, make sure your nostrils are always open so that you can breathe without problems.
- The process is always if the model is lying on the floor but if she prefers the chair, wrap a towel around her neck and shoulders.
- Ask him to tie his hair and secure the locks with barrettes.
Method 2 of 3: Part Two: Building the Mask
Step 1. Ask your subject to position themselves
Remember that it is best if he lies face up. Even if he is sitting, however, you will have to remain motionless for the duration of the process. Laughing or moving will lead to imperfections.
Step 2. Smear petrolatum all over her face
Also put it in the hair, on the eyebrows and on the sides of the nose. Do not skip this step as the gel helps prevent the model from feeling pain once the mask is removed.
Step 3. Build the first layer of the mask
One strip at a time, dip them in the water, you can run over your fingers to drain them. The strips contain more plaster on one side than on the other, put the side with the least plaster on your face. Create an even base and avoid gaps between the strips.
- Moisten a small strip and arrange it diagonally along the nose, starting at the left eyebrow and ending next to the right nostril. Make sure the person can always breathe.
- Moisten another strip and arrange it diagonally on the opposite side, thus forming an "X" over the bridge of the nose.
- Place a larger wet strip on your forehead, superimposed on the upper ends of the "X", making the cast smooth as you place it.
- Add the remaining strips. Avoid the triangle from the tip of the nose to the upper edge of the lip and continue until all the stripes are finished. Cut each to the size you need.
Step 4. Inspect for empty spots
Check for exposed skin. See if the strips overlap properly.
Step 5. Make a second layer
Focusing on the areas to settle, start layering other strips. This time use them wider to create an even layer with few bumps.
Step 6. Take a break and leave the mask on
Cut strips or clean a little before applying a third layer: the amschera must settle but not start to dry.
Step 7. Begin the third layer
Start from the edges and fold the tails to make everything uniform. This way I smooth out the corners left by the initial layers.
- Start building prominent features. Create a big nose, browbones and so on to add character to the mask. Add pieces in layers that you will even out as you shape.
- Regardless of what features you're getting, be sure to reinforce weak areas like the nose and eyes by adding extra streaks.
Step 8. Let it dry
After about a quarter of an hour the model's face will start to itch. Ask him to move his face a little - raise his eyebrows, wrinkle his nose etc to start loosening the mask.
Step 9. Remove the mask
When the model no longer feels "stuck" to the mask, slide your fingers along the edges to lift them, moving them in and towards the center of the mask as you lift it.
- While still malleable, use a punch to punch holes two centimeters behind the eyes for a ribbon or string to pass through.
- Place the mask on a grate to dry overnight.
Method 3 of 3: Part Three: Finishes
Step 1. Attach decorative elements with other strips
You can use the same overlay technique used for the base.
- Consider adding something to make a beak (fold a paper plate in half) or horns (use tubes or cones), or chunky cheeks (crumpled newspapers). Cover them completely with the chalk strips.
- For natural features like high cheekbones or a pointed nose, use 'paper clay'. Layer over the mask then sculpt the features into the clay. Cover with chalk and let it dry overnight.
Step 2. Smooth out the mask surface
Use sandpaper to fix any lumps or bumps.
- You can also choose to cover the mask with white paper napkins glued and left to dry.
- Also smooth and cover the back of the mask to prevent the plaster from touching the skin.
Step 3. Decorate the mask
Use dyes or glue and feathers, sequins, beads and more.
- If you want to paint the mask first brush it with a layer of scagliola chalk. Let it dry.
- When you're done, run a ribbon or thread through the holes and knot the ends so that you can hold the mask in place on your face.
Advice
- Hobby dyes can be used to lacquer the mask while protecting it from water.
- The best way to create facial features is to build them on existing ones instead of trying to create them. Once you have a nose to start with, "feel" how much you want to change it and go from there.
- For a half mask, follow the outline of the jaw.
- Many masks are attached with a thread, which makes putting them on and taking them off easy, ensuring they don't fall out.
Warnings
- Never cover the nostrils with plaster.
- If you intend to do ambitious work with many layers, you will need to have the person rest their neck on a pillow. Check that you have a patient subject.
- Test the cast on the back of your subject's wrist the day before making the mask. If he has a reaction he is probably allergic and you will need to find someone else.