Weeds (of the “foxtail” type) are weeds known for their spread in fields, pastures and other green areas. You can use both chemical and organic methods to get rid of it, but you should also take some preventive measures to protect the area from future pest threats.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Part 1 of 3: Chemical herbicides
Step 1. Use glyphosate or similar products
Classic fertilizers will not work against weeds as these are, in fact, herbs. If you want to use chemical control methods, you should look for a herbicide that kills herbs. One of the most easily accessible is a chemical compound called glyphosate.
Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide, so it will kill pretty much anything it encounters. For best results, spray it over the entire area. While the rest of the vegetation will also likely die, this is the quickest and most effective way to get rid of weeds
Step 2. Apply several times
You will probably need to use the herbicide at least 2 or 3 times, before it completely sweeps away the weeds. Wait for the weeds to come back before spraying it again.
You should allow at least 2 weeks or so before applying the herbicide again, especially when using a powerful one such as glyphosate
Step 3. Alternate chemical herbicides with organic weed control methods
While chemical herbicides can take care of most of the problem, using the help of certain organic control methods can help between applications, speeding up general extermination.
Between 7 and 10 days after using the herbicide, address the residue of dead plants. If you are going to restore the ground, do it now
Method 2 of 3: Part 2 of 3: Organic Solutions
Step 1. Turn the ground upside down
Dig under the weeds and turn the plants under the ground, burying them in conditions of darkness and heat. By doing so, you will prevent growth and help kill this troublesome weed.
Work in the moonlight, at dawn or dusk. It is said that turning the soil over can expose the weed to a strong ray of light, thus stimulating the plant and making it grow faster. If you turn the ground at night instead of in sunlight, however, you can reduce this effect by up to 78%
Step 2. Pull or remove the grass
Alternatively, you can take out the grass one tuft at a time and throw it somewhere else, away from the contaminated area. Be sure to remove the entire plant, including the roots, and not just the top.
- First remove the seed heads to prevent them from spreading and repopulating the area with other weeds.
- After extracting the seeds, dig under the plants using a long weeding tool thin enough to reach the longest roots.
- Note that grass is easier to pull when the ground is wet and the grass is young. Weeds are no exception.
- Extract the weed from its base if you are working by hand. Wear sturdy gardening gloves to protect your hands.
- You can try cutting the tops and flower parts of weeds with a lawn mower. You will have to continually re-trim the weeds over the course of the season, however, as the plant will continue to produce more flowers throughout the summer.
- If you choose the mower option, be sure to clean the blades once finished to prevent accidental spread of seeds. You should also rake the yard to remove all the heads. These additional steps will increase your chances of weeding with a simple shallow cut.
Step 3. Apply some vinegar
If you appreciate the ease and effectiveness of herbicides but don't mind the idea of using naked chemicals on your vegetation, you can rather use vinegar. Vinegar is a natural and reasonably bland acid, but it is known for its effectiveness in removing weeds.
- The medium vinegar is composed of 5% acetic acid.
- Pour the vinegar directly onto the weeds at ground level. The basic idea is to get it as close as possible to the roots.
- Use enough vinegar to soak the soil under the weeds. It does not have to be soaked, but it should be moist to the touch.
- Wait a week or two after the first application and check the results. Dead or dying weeds should be pulled out as soon as possible. Weeds that are still growing even after using vinegar should be soaked again.
- Reapply the vinegar where necessary.
- Note that vinegar tends to be more effective when used on weed seedlings. It may not be as useful on mature plants.
Step 4. Use urine
Although the concept of pouring urine on a lawn or other plant area can make you turn up your nose, it can be as effective as vinegar, as a herbicide. Urine is a strong alkaline organic substance, so it is able to kill weeds as much as a chemical herbicide.
- You can purchase “predator urine” products at garden stores. These products are usually used as deterrents or repellents against small garden pests, but they can also be used as herbicides.
- A cheaper and even more effective solution would be human urine. Collect the urine in a bucket and pour it right at the base of the weeds, aiming directly for contact with the roots.
- As with many other control methods, you may need to use multiple urine applications or use this organic herbicide in conjunction with physical removal methods. Remove tufts of grass by hand with a hoe when they are dying.
Step 5. Cover the area with mulch
If the weed is still young, suppress the new growth as soon as possible by covering it with some type of mulch. This can prevent light and air from hitting the grass, essentially depriving it of the nutrients and light needed for growth.
- Weeds will need to be trimmed close to the soil before applying mulch and using it to get rid of them.
- If you have other plants or other greenery that you are trying to preserve, mulch between the plants and along the rows. Make sure it covers the weeds.
- Organic mulches such as wheat reeds, shredded leaves, and sawdust are fine.
- Spread about 2 inches of mulch.
- You could also spread damp, black ink-only printed paper under the mulch to reinforce the growth block.
Method 3 of 3: Part 3 of 3: Future prevention
Step 1. Try a pre-emergence herbicide
If you don't have a problem with chemical treatments, then a pre-emergence herbicide should be applied to the area just before the new growths are expected. This is especially important if you have already had problems with weeds.
- Some classic chemical options include "dacthal", "balan", and "pendimetaline".
- For an organic pre-emergent herbicide, try corn gluten meal. Spread the product after the grass is born, to prevent weeds and other unwanted herbs from taking root. Do not use it before planting the new herb, though, as it may prevent the desired plants from growing.
- Apply a pre-emergent herbicide treatment in the spring. If you apply it too soon, however, it can lose its effectiveness. For best results, apply it when it starts to get hot and stay warm. Roll it out just when you expect the weed to come out.
Step 2. Measure the soil pH
The soil conditions must be suitable for other plants. If other plants thrive in the soil, they will grow and absorb more nutrients, making it harder for weeds to take in nutrients to survive.
- The ideal soil pH varies according to the type of surrounding vegetation.
- The fertilizer and other additives you use in the area will affect the pH. Note that similar modifications generally have a much greater impact on pH when embedded in the soil rather than scattered on the surface.
- Herbicides can also affect the pH. As a general rule, if you add an acidic herbicide, balance it with an alkaline substance later, and vice versa.
- Have the pH of a sample of your soil analyzed in a laboratory.
Step 3. Fill the area with other growths
When an area is populated by too much vegetation, something will inevitably die due to competition at the root level for nutrients and resources.
- You could also completely replace the grass with sod.
- When choosing which vegetation to plant, tend towards something solid like legumes or grassy hay. Plants in rows, such as soybeans and corn, leave too much space in the soil and are not effective in limiting weed growth.
- If you plant other types of grass around, keep it as sumptuous, dense and healthy as possible. The thick grass can also be useful against the growth of weeds.
Step 4. Keep the area well groomed
Mowing the grass regularly can keep the field healthy, and a healthy field will be less likely to encourage weed growth.
While it is important to keep the grass cut, you shouldn't overdo it either. Maintain a minimum height of the grass between 5 and 7, 6cm
Warnings
- Do not compost the remains of weeds. Once extracted, you should put them in the bags and take them to the landfill. Composting the remains could lead to the seeds spreading and sprouting again, and your weed problem would resume.
- Weeds can be very harmful to dogs, cats and other animals. For animals with fur, grass could attach itself and make its way through the skin, and then take root and cause disease or even death. For all animals, it can also cause similar problems by getting into the ears, nose and eyes. It can also be dangerous if ingested.
