Hatching chicken eggs is an extremely rewarding experience, but it requires good planning, dedication, flexibility, and observation skills. Chicken eggs have an incubation period of 21 days and can be hatched using a special incubator - to be carefully monitored - or a mother hen. Here are some tips for both methods.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Choice of Eggs and Hatching Method
Step 1. Find out where to find fertile eggs
Fertile eggs can be obtained from poultry farms where there are roosters or by raising your own chickens. You can buy farm-fresh eggs from someone who sells redundancies. Check potential suppliers well in advance to be sure the breed is correct and to find out how many eggs they could supply you.
- Eggs found in grocery stores are not fertile and cannot be incubated.
- To prevent various infections and for health reasons in general, it is best to buy all eggs from a single source.
- If you are looking for a particular breed, perhaps rare, you may need to contact a specialized producer.
Step 2. Beware of the eggs shipped
It can be dangerous to buy eggs online and receive them by courier, especially if you are a beginner. After travel, eggs are more difficult to hatch than self-produced or locally purchased ones.
- On average, eggs have a hatching rate of 80%. Those that have undergone transport, however, only 50%.
- Also, if the eggs are improperly transported, it is possible that none will hatch, despite all your best efforts.
Step 3. Select the eggs wisely
If you have the option of selecting eggs, there are several things to consider. You should choose eggs from well-developed, mature and healthy hens, compatible with their mates and capable of producing a high percentage of fertile eggs (about three each). Breeding hens must have been fed for this specific purpose.
- Avoid eggs that are excessively large, small, or misshapen. Eggs that are too large, like small ones, produce undersized chicks.
- Avoid eggs with cracked or thin shells. These eggs have difficulty maintaining the humidity necessary for the correct development of the chick. Cracked or too thin shells can also make it easier for disease to penetrate.
Step 4. Please note that you will also produce roosters
It is important to remember that the eggs hatch, usually generating half males and half females. If you live in the city, roosters can be a problem and you would often go against municipal regulations! If you can't keep roosters, be prepared to find them a home. Even if you can keep them, know that you will need to take steps so that they are not redundant and end up hurting the chickens.
- There is no way to know if an egg contains a male or female chick before it hatches. Even if the general ratio of males to females is half to half, it can be unfortunate that out of 8 eggs 7 males are born, which would ruin your plans if you wanted a chicken coop, for example.
- If you want to keep some or all of the male chicks, there are a few things to consider, including enough space to avoid overcrowding. In the latter case the hens could be injured and the roosters would end up fighting each other.
- The recommendation is to calculate that usually the ideal is one rooster for every 10 hens. This is also good value for an ongoing and balanced reproduction rate in a chicken coop.
Step 5. Decide whether to use an incubator or a mother hen
Once you have decided to hatch chicken eggs, you are faced with two options: you can use an incubator or have them hatch by a hen. Both options have pros and cons that you will need to consider before proceeding.
- The incubator is a specific container with controlled temperature, humidity and ventilation. With an incubator, you are the only one responsible for hatching. You will need to prepare the incubator, monitor the temperature, humidity and internal ventilation, turning the eggs from time to time. You can buy the incubator or build it yourself. In the first case, follow the manufacturer's instructions.
- To hatch the eggs, you can use a hen. It does not need to be the hen that laid them. That of the mother hen is an excellent and natural option. You will need a hen predisposed to hatching, you can choose from popular breeds for this characteristic such as the Silkies, the Cochins, the Orpingtons and the Old English Games.
Step 6. To choose, it will be useful to know the pros and cons of each method
Both the incubator and the mother hen offer advantages. Get informed to decide what should be done in your specific case.
- Advantages of the incubator: it's a good option if you don't have a mother hen or if it's your first time hatching eggs. An incubator gives you total control over the process, and is the best option for hatching large quantities of eggs.
- Disadvantages of the incubator: First of all, its operation is completely dependent on a reliable energy source. If there is an unexpected power failure or someone accidentally pulls the plug, the eggs will not hatch and if the chicks are already formed they will die. In addition, the machinery, especially if it is large in size, can be expensive.
- Advantages of the mother hen: it is a practical and natural solution. With a hen there is no need to worry about electricity. You don't even need to worry about the correct temperature or humidity levels. When the eggs hatch, the hen will also mother the chicks, which is helpful and pleasant to look at.
- Disadvantages of the mother hen: the hen may not hatch when you need it and there is no way to convince her. You absolutely have to find the right specimen and the right time. You may need to buy a special nest, to protect the hen and eggs from damage due to overcrowding. This would constitute an additional expense. Then, a mother hen can only hatch a few eggs at a time. A large hen can hatch 10-12 eggs, while a smaller hen will hatch six or seven eggs.
Method 2 of 3: Using an incubator
Step 1. Choose a location for the incubator
To keep it at a constant temperature, place it where there is the least number of thermal variations. Therefore, do not place it near a window where it will be exposed to direct sunlight. The heat of the sun can, in fact, significantly increase the temperature, to the point of killing developing embryos.
- Connect the unit to a reliable power source and make sure the plug cannot be accidentally pulled out of the socket.
- Keep the incubator out of the reach of children, cats and dogs.
- Place the incubator on an even surface and in a location where temperatures are relatively stable, away from drafts and direct sunlight.
Step 2. Learn every detail of how the machine works
Before inserting the eggs to hatch, carefully read the instructions in the manual. Try running the fan, light and all other functions.
Use the supplied thermometer to check the incubator temperature. You should do this several times during the 24 hours before inserting the eggs, to make sure the machine is maintaining the right temperature
Step 3. Adjust the conditions
In order for chicken eggs to hatch well, the conditions inside the incubator must be perfect. To prepare the incubator to receive the eggs, you should adjust the conditions inside the incubator optimally.
- Temperature: Chicken eggs must be incubated at a temperature between 37 ° C and 39 ° C (37.5 ° C is considered the perfect temperature).
- Humidity: The humidity level in the incubator should range between 50% and 65% (60% is often considered ideal). The humidity is supplied by a tub of water positioned under the egg holder. You can use a hygrometer to measure humidity.
Step 4. Place the eggs
Once the conditions inside the incubator have been set up correctly and monitored for at least 24 hours to confirm stability, it is time to place the eggs. Do not incubate fewer than six eggs. If only two or three eggs are incubated, especially if they have undergone an expedition, it is likely that none will hatch, or that only one chick will be born.
- Allow the fertile eggs to reach room temperature. In fact, inserting eggs that are not too cold will decrease the thermal variations in the incubator.
- Carefully place the eggs. Make sure they are resting well, possibly to the side. The widest part of the eggs should be slightly higher than the tip. It is important to prevent the embryo from being misaligned, which would make it difficult for the chick to escape from the egg.
Step 5. Let the temperature drop after adding the eggs
The temperature drops temporarily after introducing the eggs into the incubator, but will settle down quickly if you calibrated the incubator correctly.
Do not raise the temperature to compensate for this fluctuation: you risk damaging the eggs or killing the embryos
Step 6. Write down the date
This way you can estimate the day the eggs will hatch. Chicken eggs take 21 days to hatch if incubated at the optimum temperature. Older eggs, which have not been warm for a while, or which have been incubated at too low a temperature, may still hatch, but delayed! If it's the 21st day and they haven't hatched yet, give them a couple more days, you never know!
Step 7. Turn the eggs every day
The eggs should be turned at least three times a day at regular intervals - five times would be even better! Some people draw a slight X on one side of the eggs to make it easier to understand which ones have already turned.
- When you turn the eggs, your hands should be washed and cleaned to avoid the transfer of bacteria and oils to the surface of the egg.
- Continue turning the eggs until day 18, then stop this practice to allow the chicks to position themselves correctly for hatching.
Step 8. Adjust the humidity levels in the incubator
The humidity should be between 50% and 60% throughout the period, excluding the last 3 days when it should be raised to 65%. You may need higher or lower humidity levels, depending on the type of eggs you have. Consult your provider or search for information related to the breed you have chosen.
- Replenish the water in the tub regularly. Be careful, if the water runs out, the humidity will drop below the recommended level. Also, remember that you must always add hot water.
- Put a sponge in the water tray if you need to increase the humidity level.
- Measure the humidity level with a hygrometer or wet bulb thermometer. If you use the latter, consult the online tables to determine what temperature each reading corresponds to
Step 9. Make sure the incubator has adequate ventilation
There should be openings on the sides and top of the incubator to allow for airflow - check for objects blocking the passage.
Step 10. Look at the eggs after 7-10 days
Use a light source to see how much space the embryo takes up inside the egg. From the seventh day you should be able to see the development of the embryo. This operation allows you to remove the eggs whose embryos are not developing.
- Find a jar or box that a light bulb fits into.
- Make a hole in the jar or box that is smaller than the diameter of an egg.
- Turn on the light bulb.
- Take one of the incubated eggs and place it on the hole. If the egg appears clear, the embryo has not developed or the egg has never been fertile. You should see a cloudy mass if the embryo is growing and will increase in size as the date of hatching approaches.
- Remove any eggs whose embryo shows no signs of growth.
Step 11. Prepare for hatching
Stop turning the eggs 3 days before the estimated hatch date. The eggs in perfect condition hatch within 24 hours from the fixed date.
- Before hatching, place gauze under the eggs. It will help you collect the bits of shell and other material after hatching.
- Increase the humidity level in the incubator by adding water or a sponge.
- Leave the incubator closed until after the chicks are born.
Method 3 of 3: Use a mother hen
Step 1. Choose the right breed
If you have decided to use a hen to hatch eggs, you will need to know how to choose the most suitable for this role. Some breeds are not predisposed to hatching, so if you're waiting for your favorite hen to be in the mood for it, it can be a long wait! The best breeds for hatching are Silkies, Cochins, Orpingtons and Old English Games.
- There are plenty of other breeds suitable for hatching, but they won't necessarily be good mothers too.
- Some chickens are so surprised when the eggs hatch that they may attack the chicks or abandon them. If you can find a hen that is suitable for brooding and is also a good mother, you have hit the mark!
Step 2. Find out when a hen is perfect for brooding
A suitable hen stays on the nest as if in a trance, without moving even during the night. You can find an area of your hen that is free of feathers on the abdomen. The good hen then warns with a loud cry whoever approaches her, trying to peck at the hands of the intruder.
If you don't trust your hen, before placing fertile eggs under her, observe her for a couple of days to see how strong her nest attachment is. You can put golf balls, artificial eggs or unfertilized eggs. Knowing her better will avoid choosing a hen that abandons the nest during the incubation period
Step 3. Prepare a suitable area
Place the mother hen in a separate space, which can be used for both the incubation and hatching period and the growing period of the chicks. Place a comfortable nest at ground level, fill it with soft stuffing such as straw or wood shavings.
- The chosen area should be quiet, not too bright, clean, free of drafts, isolated from the rest of the house, free of lice and ticks and safe from potential predators.
- Leave room for the hen to leave the nest to eat, drink and move around.
Step 4. Place the fertile eggs under the hen
If you are sure that the hen is good at hatching, after preparing the area, place the eggs under the hen. Place them all at the same time so that they hatch within 24 hours of each other.
- Place the eggs under the hen at night to avoid disturbing her, reducing the risk of her leaving the nest and eggs.
- Don't worry about how you place the eggs. The hen will move them numerous times during the incubation.
Step 5. Make sure he has food and water available at all times
Even if she gets up to eat and drink only once a day, the mother hen must always have food and water available. Place the water far enough away from the hen so that she does not trip over it, causing the water to fall on her nest and eggs.
Step 6. Avoid disturbing the hen and handling the eggs as much as possible
The hen will do all the necessary work, she will turn and arrange the eggs while the heat and humidity will be ensured by contact with her body. If you want to check the eggs in the light, to check progress, resist the temptation to do it often.
- However, it is important to avoid rotten eggs which, if opened, would cause health and hygiene problems. A good compromise is to look at all the eggs with one light at the same time, between the seventh and tenth day of the incubation process. If no embryo is growing inside an egg, remove it.
- During the last week of incubation, the hen will remain on the nest full time without turning or moving the eggs. This is the correct and natural behavior, so leave her alone.
Step 7. Have an alternative solution ready
It can be very frustrating when a hen has been faithfully on eggs for two weeks, but then gives up and walks away. If so, don't despair. If you have another hen or artificial incubator handy, you can still save your future chicks.
Step 8. Let nature take its course
Once the chicks start breaking eggs, don't try to peek or remove the eggs under the hen just to get a better look. Everything is exactly where it needs to be. Don't worry if not all the eggs have hatched, the hens are surprisingly good at multitasking - they will be able to complete both egg incubation and chick care. The hen usually stays on the nest for 36 hours or more after the first hatching, to allow time for all the chicks to come to light, keeping the already hatched chicks very close, under her wing.
