Natural hair, also known as "Afro hair", has peculiarities that may require some care and a lot of effort for styling and cutting. "Natural" hair can also refer to Afro-style hair that has not been altered with chemical or heat-based treatments. Understanding the characteristics of this type of hair and how to treat it, rather than fight it, will make it easier to take care of.
Steps
Part 1 of 4: Learning about Natural Hair
Step 1. Learn about the characteristics of natural hair
They are unique and you should know them to take care of your hair.
- People of African descent usually have irregularly shaped hair follicles, with very dense and curled hair, which can prevent sebum (a natural moisturizer produced by the skin) from saturating the hair shaft thoroughly. Hence the tendency of the hair to become dry and brittle and to wrinkle and break.
- Natural hair tends to form knots when combed. Knots facilitate hair breakage and for this reason several hairdressers recommend not overdoing the comb and using it in moderation. For example, you should never use it on natural hair when it is dry.
- Natural hair often grows slower than other types. Furthermore, the very curved shaft of the hair indicates that the hair tends to decrease in volume when it dries; the decrease can reach up to 75% if the hair is very frizzy or curly!
Step 2. Know your hair type
The natural one has many varieties. Some basic haircare concepts are common to all types, but knowing yours can help you determine how to care and style them to get the results you want.
- According to the very popular classification of the famous stylist Andre Walker, there are 4 basic types of hair: straight (1), wavy (2), curly (3), and frizzy (4). Within these there are several sub-categories that are distinguished according to the peculiarities of the hair. For example, type 4 is typically divided into three sub-categories: 4A (spiral curls), 4B (angled curls) and 4C (twisted curls).
- Many websites and hair care products refer to their type using Walker system-based codes, such as "3A" or "4B". The numbers refer to the type of hair, while the letters refer to the structure of the hair. Natural hair is usually type 3 (curly) or type 4 (frizzy).
Step 3. Identify your hair needs
Recognizing the type can help you understand the care they need and the most suitable cuts and hairstyles.
- Type 3 (curly) has very well defined and supple curls, with a lot of volume and body. The curls often appear in the shape of "S", curls or corkscrews. Hair can be brittle or fine and needs moisturizing treatments and conditioners.
- Type 4 (frizzy) has very tight curls with a lot of volume. Hair has a heavy structure, is usually bristly and can have multiple curl patterns, instead of just one dominant one, in the same hair. These patterns will often form a "Z" or have a curled look. It is the most fragile type of hair because it has fewer layers of cuticle than the others. To keep type 4 healthy you need heavy and specific balms and moisturizers.
Part 2 of 4: Wash Natural Hair
Step 1. Detangle your hair before washing
Natural hair tends to tangle and knot, and washing your hair while it is in this state could damage it. With moisturizers and a detangling comb you will be better able to remove knots, tangles and fallen hair.
- Mix one part of oil (coconut or olive) with three parts of water in a spray bottle. Spray your hair until it is completely wet.
- Distribute the moisturizing conditioner evenly over wet hair. Many conditioners contain oils and waxes that make hair slippery and easier to style without breaking.
- Work through the hair with your fingers, trying to find knots and tangles. This will help you avoid pinching them with the comb later. Gently untie the knots with your fingers.
- Separate your hair into manageable sections. You can bend the sections you are not working on, or pin them with a fork so that they do not disturb you.
- Use a comb to detangle and work each section from the base of the hair. Untangling combs have more spaced teeth than normal ones with varying sizes for all hair types.
Step 2. Avoid harsh shampoos
Many shampoos contain chemicals such as ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, or sodium lauryl sulfate. These substances create a rich lather when you wash your hair, but they can also cause dryness and breakage. Look for "sulfate-free" shampoos that are gentler on your hair.
You can also use cleaning products that do not contain shampoos, such as "cleansing conditioners". They don't lather like regular shampoo, but they are easier to use on your hair. You can find them in drugstores and cosmetic stores
Step 3. Avoid over-washing your hair
Natural hair is usually dry and washing it too often actually risks making things worse. Washing it once a week is usually enough.
If your hair stays greasier than you would like, try a dry shampoo. These are spray or powder cleaners that absorb excess fat without plundering the hair follicle. Don't overdo it though; Dry shampoos are usually brushed off, and using this without due care can damage natural hair
Step 4. Deeply condition your hair every week
You can make the necessary creams at home. Products you have around the house, such as olive oil, avocado, honey, bananas, and even mayonnaise, can help strengthen and replenish your hair.
Step 5. Dry your hair
Use an old soft t-shirt or microfiber cloth to wipe excess moisture out of your hair. Never rub your hair with a towel! This roughens the hair cuticle and causes frizz and breakage.
Part 3 of 4: Prepare Natural Hair for Styling
Step 1. Use moisturizers after washing
Natural hair needs to be kept much more moist than other types to stay healthy. But you don't have to spend a lot of money: olive oil, coconut oil, shea butter and cocoa butter are excellent moisturizers that you can leave on your hair after washing and conditioner.
Step 2. Exclude hairstyles that require the use of heat whenever possible
Allow the hair to air dry and avoid the use of a hairdryer, blowing air involves the dangerous combination of high heat with the pulls of a styling brush. In addition, curling irons, hot rollers and straighteners are very aggressive on your hair. There are some things-you-can-do to get straight hair, such as thoroughly moisturizing it with specific products, but turn off styling heat whenever possible to avoid damaging it.
Step 3. Prevent frizz by moisturizing
This may sound strange because frizz is due to hair absorbing moisture from the environment, but hair that is already well hydrated is less likely to become frizzy. Natural oils such as olive and coconut oil fight frizz very well, although there are plenty of products that can be purchased for this purpose.
Silicone-based products are particularly suitable for smoothing and combating frizz. They can also make your hair "crunchy", so try and see if you like the results
Step 4. Sleep on satin to avoid tangles
Sleeping on a smooth satin pillowcase or wrapping your hair in a silk scarf before bed is not just a pleasant way to pamper yourself; it will help you to prevent your hair from tangling while you sleep.
Part 4 of 4: Styling the Natural Hair
Step 1. Apply styling products in layers
Products like gels and serums can be great for getting what you want out of your hair, but overdoing it can make it greasy or "crunchy." You can always add something later if you feel it is necessary!
Step 2. Use rollers to straighten and style your hair
Curlers can help straighten and smooth your hair with less heat than a curling iron or straightener. Use a suitable conditioner and get rid of tangles before using them.
Magnetic and satin-coated foam curlers are gentler on natural hair than other types. Absolutely avoid velcro or mesh ones, as they encourage tangles and can break hair
Step 3. Take protective hairstyles into consideration
The braids, the braids and the knots, keep the hair protected by reducing the time for styling and helping to take away the tensions from the most fragile ends. There are many online tutorials that explain these hairstyles in easy DIY steps. Good sources for styling tips include "Curly Nikki" and "Naturally Curly".
Some styles for protection, such as braids, can take hours and are best done by a professional hairdresser. Others, like buns and pigtails, can easily be done at home
Step 4. Hydrate your hairstyle every day
Any hairstyle looks freshly made if you spray it every day with a mixture of water, an after-wash conditioner and moisturizers like olive or coconut oil.
Step 5. Change style after 3 months
Styles for protection like braids and pigtails should also not be left on for longer than 12 weeks. Thoroughly condition your hair and apply a moisturizer after ditching a style.
