Grass accumulated under the mower cover can become a big problem; can turn into hard lumps, promote rust formation on the outside of the frame, and lead to an inaccurate, slow cut due to reduced airflow. Applying a protective coating slows down this process, but nothing can replace regular cleaning of the machine.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Eliminate the Weed
Step 1. Access the underside of the mower
When tilting the machine to the side, make sure that the filler openings of the oil and fuel tanks remain at the top to prevent liquids from escaping. Raise the mower safely so it cannot fall and cause injury.
It is best to empty the gas tank before starting
Step 2. Remove the candle
Spinning the blades by hand could inadvertently start the engine; Always remove the spark plug or disconnect its lead to avoid accidents before handling moving parts under the lawn mower.
Disassemble the blade as an additional preventative measure
Step 3. Scrape off the caked grass
Wear sturdy gardening gloves and remove any large lumps by hand or with a flat crowbar; remove the residues with a spatula or a metal brush.
If you have difficulty, wet the surface before removing the grass
Step 4. Blow out the debris with the compressor
For best results, you can use a blower equipped with a nozzle or spray wand to loosen and remove the blades of grass after scraping them.
Step 5. Inspect the air filter
Disassemble it and check it to see if it needs to be replaced. If it is in good condition and washable, clean it with the compressor initially to get rid of the grass and debris, taking care not to tear it. Pour some dish soap or degreaser into the water and wash the filter thoroughly; shake it to get rid of excess liquid and blow dry it, making sure it is completely dry before installing it again.
If you are unsure whether the filter is washable, check your lawn mower manual
Step 6. Use a pressure washer
If you don't get great results when scraping by hand, spray the underside with pressurized water. Leave the mower raised and wait for it to dry completely before proceeding to the next step.
- Water can interfere with the air filter and other mechanisms, especially along the sides or top of the machine. Typically, the crankcase is designed to withstand an occasional wash, but if you're unsure, check your manual.
- If you have a compressor, use it to speed up the drying process.
Part 2 of 3: Apply the Protective Coat
Step 1. Spray non-stick cake oil on the underside of the crankcase
You can find many products of this type in the supermarket that are used to prevent food from sticking to the pans; in practice, it is vegetable oil dispensed with a spray can. It is an economical short-term solution to slightly reduce weed build-up and make cleaning easier. If you don't have this non-stick spray, you can simply apply some vegetable oil with a clean rag.
WD-40 and engine oil have a similar effect, but can damage your lawn by dripping while using the lawn mower
Step 2. Apply a lubricant
Spray lubricants containing graphite, silicone, or Teflon are sold for just this purpose (although a generic product works just as well). Grease the entire lower portion of the frame after cleaning and drying it; then wait for the lubricant to dry according to the instructions on the package. The effect is similar to that of cooking oil, but it should last longer. If you have to mow a small dry grass lawn, this method should be enough to solve your problems.
Check the online reviews of the product before buying it; even those sold specifically for lawn mowers do not always offer good long-term protection
Step 3. Give the rust protection a try
If you have tried to lubricate the crankcase but are not satisfied, check the ingredients of the rust inhibitor to make sure they are not the same. Follow the directions on the bottle regarding surface preparation and safety measures. Not all of these products are helpfully reviewed and it's hard to know in advance which brand is effective for your lawn mower model and lawn condition. Here are some possibilities:
- A lanolin-based product leaves a protective film that does not dry out. Some people claim it is very effective, others claim that the herb sticks even more to this substance. Test it first on a small area of the frame.
- A cold galvanizing compound is extremely water resistant and can be applied to unpainted metal surfaces. This might be a good solution if you live in a humid climate, but the galvanization may deteriorate faster than the package says due to dirt and debris.
- Reviews of other industrial anti-rust products are quite mixed; you can do some research or ask the hardware store clerk for advice.
Part 3 of 3: Changing the Technique
Step 1. Do not mow the wet lawn
Whenever possible, mow the grass when it is dry. Morning dew or recent rain make it wet; as a result, it clumps and sticks to the carter.
Grass may hold moisture inside for a day or two after rains, even if it feels dry to the touch
Step 2. Cut it regularly
The longer the blades of grass, the more likely they are to accumulate. Try mowing the lawn more frequently to see if this can help reduce scale.
Step 3. Use the lawn mower at full speed
Most modern models are designed to run at full power for the entire time of use. If you let the blades spin at a slower speed, the cut will be less clean, the airflow will be reduced and as a result the machine will have more difficulty expelling the grass clippings.
Step 4. Keep the machinery in good condition
The longer you wait between cleanings, the harder the job becomes. Check the lawn mower regularly to remove any grass encrustation and make sure that all elements are in perfect condition; pay particular attention to clogged air filters as they can increase residue build-up.
If you use your lawn mower a couple of times a week to mow your small lawn at home, you should inspect it at least once a month; if you use it more often (several days a week), check it at least every 7-14 days
Step 5. Switch to a high profile blade
If grass buildup is a serious problem, contact a replacement parts dealer. The salesperson can help you identify the type of blade that is already mounted on the machine and suggest a compatible one, but with a high profile, that is able to increase the air flow to eject the cut fragments more forcefully.
