Hyacinths are fragrant, brightly colored flowers that can grow indoors and outdoors all year round. Planting hyacinths outdoors during late fall, just before the first frost, is relatively easy and similar to planting other bulbs. However, planting hyacinths indoors takes more time and effort; a technique known as "forcing" is used to encourage the bulbs to bloom.
Steps
Part 1 of 4: Planting Hyacinths Outdoors
Step 1. Choose a sunny area with well-draining soil
Hyacinths don't grow well in consistently moist soil, so it's important to select an area that you drain properly. To check this, thoroughly wet the soil in the area you have in mind and check if 5-6 hours later the water has drained.
Alternatively, dig a hole about 12 inches to one side and fill it with water. In well-draining soil, the water should drain out in 10-15 minutes
Step 2. Prepare holes 10 cm deep and at a distance of 7-8 cm from each other
Hyacinths will need some space to grow and will need to be deep enough to withstand the cold of winter. Your holes should be the same width as the bulbs; make sure they fit snugly when you stick them into the ground.
If you live in a colder climate, you should dig the holes 15-20cm deep. This will protect them from the harshness of winter, snow or ice on the ground
Step 3. Place the bulbs in the holes with the pointed end facing up
The placement of the bulb is important, because the plant will grow from the pointed end to the surface of the soil. If positioned incorrectly, your hyacinth may grow crooked or sideways and die before reaching the surface.
If you have sensitive skin, always use gloves when handling hyacinth bulbs; contain chemicals that can be irritating
Step 4. Cover the bulb with soil and compost
You can use a mixture of compost and soil to make sure the soil has the necessary nutrients for the hyacinths. Once the hole is filled, press it gently to compact the soil.
You can find compost at most home improvement stores or garden centers. Alternatively, you can use homemade compost
Step 5. Water the bulbs well
Each bulb will need to be watered immediately after being grounded. Continue watering until the soil is moist, but not soggy. You should be able to see the water drain from the ground.
Part 2 of 4: “Forcing” Closed Growth
Step 1. Fill a medium sized pot with potting soil suitable for the bulbs
It is important to use soil specifically formulated for bulbs to make sure they have the nutrients they need. Leave 2-3 cm of space at the top of the pot.
- To "force" hyacinths to grow indoors, you will need special, heat-treated bulbs, which you can find in most garden centers and nurseries.
- Make sure the pot has holes in the bottom for drainage to prevent water from remaining inside. If not, you can use a drill and drill 5-10 small holes about 2-3 cm apart.
- When you "force" the bulbs, the ideal is to plant them in separate pots, so that they have enough space to grow.
Step 2. Push half of the bulb into the ground
If you are growing hyacinths indoors, you won't have to worry about the bulb being buried deep to protect it from the cold. Place the bulb in the ground so that the top half protrudes from the surface. When the sprouts appear, you can add more soil to cover the exposed part of the bulb.
Step 3. Water each bulb thoroughly after planting
This will help them grow their first roots in the soil. Continue watering until no more water drains from the holes in the bottom of the pot.
When watering, do it over a sink or other drain to prevent water from settling on the surface or table
Step 4. Put the jar in a cool, dark place for 10 weeks
Around this time, the bulbs will grow their roots in the ground and begin to rise towards the ground. A garage, shed, or basement are great places to store your bulbs during this time, to protect them from heat and light.
- After moving them to the designated location, mark exactly 10 weeks from that date on the calendar. That day you can take them outside and place them in a well-lit area, even if they have not yet produced sprouts.
- If you have decided to grow different varieties of hyacinths, be sure to label the pots to avoid confusion when you go to retrieve them.
Step 5. Check the bulbs regularly, watering them if the soil is dry
Check for sprouts rising from the ground and wait for them to reach 5 cm in height before removing the plants from the dark place you put them. Place them in the sun to keep them growing.
Make sure you don't water too much. Do this only until the soil is moist and a little water comes out of the holes in the bottom of the pot
Part 3 of 4: Caring for Hyacinths
Step 1. Only water the plants when the soil is dry
As they start to grow, the bulbs will need more water. Only water them again when the soil is dry to prevent the roots from rotting. You may need to water them more frequently as they grow.
- If you can't tell when the ground is dry, you can touch it with your fingertips. You shouldn't be able to feel humidity.
- If you live in an area where it often rains during the spring and you grow hyacinths outside, keep an eye on the flower beds to check the soil moisture. You will probably need to water less in the spring because the rain will do it for you!
Step 2. Cut off the yellow leaves after flowering is over
In late spring, the hyacinths will stop blooming and their leaves will turn yellow. Use pruning shears or garden shears to cut all the yellow leaves.
This helps the plant save energy and prepare for the next flowering season. Otherwise it will have to wait for the leaves to drop before storing its extra energy
Step 3. Throw away potted hyacinths after flowering is over
Indoor potted hyacinths will only bloom once. If you are not planning to move them outside, you will have to start the "forcing" process for indoor hyacinths again.
You can save the pot and soil for the next hyacinth cycle, but keep in mind that you may need to add some compost to the soil to replace some nutrients
Part 4 of 4: Dealing with Pests and Diseases
Step 1. Cover the bed with mulch or a mulch if you live in a very rainy area
Too much moisture can damage hyacinths. Plan ahead and protect your flowers by mulching flower beds or applying a protective coating before planting. Even if the plants have started to grow, you can still apply mulch.
- Spreading mulch on the bed will help retain some of the moisture in the soil.
- A fabric or plastic bed cover will protect the bulb and roots by absorbing or redirecting some water from the soil to other areas of the garden away from the bulb.
Step 2. Discourage bulb flies by adjusting the soil and using an insect net
After flowering, compact the soil surrounding the plant well to make sure female flies don't find room to lay eggs. You can also protect the bulbs when you plant them by wrapping them in bug netting, which you can find at home improvement stores or garden centers.
- There are currently no chemicals that kill bulb flies.
- If a hyacinth has been infested with bulb flies, it will not bloom. Dig around the bulb to check for maggots or maggot-looking insects. If you find them, throw the bulb away to prevent it from infecting other flowers.
Step 3. Check for nematode infestation by removing infected plants
If a hyacinth shows symptoms of nematode infestation, such as the presence of yellow flowers, rotten and crooked leaves or spots under the leaves, immediately remove the plant from the bed. Also remove any healthy looking plants within one meter of the diseased plant.
Avoid planting anything in the area of the infected plant for 3 years after its removal. Make sure you get rid of the weeds and place new soil and compost in the meantime
Warnings
Hyacinth bulbs contain an acid that can irritate the skin in some people when handled. If you have sensitive skin or start to feel some irritation when handling them, wear gardening gloves
Things You Will Need
Planting Hyacinths Outdoors
- Spade
- Well-draining soil
- Waterfall
- Hyacinth bulbs
- Compost
"Forcing" Closed Growth
- Medium sized pot with drainage holes
- Soil for bulbs
- Small spade or shovel
- Hyacinth bulbs
- Waterfall
Tackling Pests and Diseases
- Mulch or mulch cloth
- Insect net
