The wild apple tree is quite resistant and does not require much pruning to encourage growth. However, the wild apple tree may need to be pruned to maintain its appearance. In addition, decayed branches that could carry disease, or excess branches that could suck up valuable nutrients from the rest of the tree, should be pruned.
Steps
Step 1. Perform major pruning during the dormant season
The ideal time to prune a wild apple tree is between January and February, precisely in the cold months. You can prune the tree in November or December, but you must wait until after the first frost to make sure the tree is in a dormant state. At the latest, you shouldn't go beyond early March to prune the tree.
Note that if necessary, you can prune a wild apple tree in early spring, around the end of March or early April. This, however, should only be done if the weather is still cold enough, and if the tree has not begun to actively bloom. All pruning must be done before June 1st because the new buds start growing in June and July
Step 2. Eliminate the suckers
Suckers are additional branches that start growing and sprouting near the base of the tree. The young suckers are thin and quite weak and can be cut with sharp scissors. Cut the suckers at the base, exactly where they emerge from the ground.
Suckers are very common on wild apple trees that have been grafted with other trees or planted too deep into the ground, but they can grow with any wild apple tree. If allowed to grow, these branches can develop into secondary trunks which will flower and bear fruit. Unfortunately, the fruits produced by this secondary trunk will be weaker, and the energy the tree expends to grow this secondary trunk will cause an overall weakening of the plant
Step 3. Eliminate the water suckers
Water suckers are thin and straight branches that grow vertically or obliquely from a main branch in the middle of the tree. These branches absorb a small amount of energy from the tree, but because they don't mature much beyond this stage, they don't absorb too much of it. Regardless, the water suckers distort the tree line and produce neither flowers nor fruit, so they must be eliminated. Cut them off at the base with sharp scissors.
Step 4. Cut dead or dying wood
Many of these branches are thick enough to require the use of a saw, but dying wood can be found on thin branches that can be removed with shears. In any case it is necessary to cut the entire branch at the base.
- A diseased or damaged branch must be eliminated to prevent the disease from affecting the rest of the tree.
- A branch that looks weaker can even die of old age. To check if a branch is dying, check if there are any buds on it. If you still can't figure it out, scratch the branch to remove a portion of the bark and check the pulp. If the pulp is white-green, the branch is viable. If it is brown or black, the branch is dead.
Step 5. Saw branches that grow inward
Occasionally, a branch will begin to rotate inwards as it grows, heading towards the center of the tree instead of outwards. These branches must be removed to maintain the shape of the tree. Saw at the base, close to the trunk without accidentally cutting other branches or the trunk itself.
Step 6. Cut off any branches that cross or are too close to each other
In addition to the branches that grow inward, others become crooked by crossing or twisting each other. Similarly, some branches grow too close together, increasing the likelihood that they will eventually twist.
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For branches that are already twisted, you will probably need to saw them both at the base of the branches, as close as possible to the trunk of the tree.
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For branches that are growing close together but have not yet twisted, you can only remove one branch. Saw the weakest or most awkward branch.
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Step 7. Saw the lower branches if you want
Low-hanging branches can cause discomfort when walking, mowing, or other activities that require you to go under the tree. If this is the case, these lower branches can be cut off by sawing them close to the trunk. If you don't have these problems or don't need to worry about walking under the tree, the lower branches may remain.
Step 8. Cut off the vertical water suckers and other suckers in the summer
You may notice small water suckers or other suckers growing during the active growth period. You can cut off these extra branches when you notice, instead of waiting for the main pruning period. Sawing them away redirects the energy absorbed on the parts of the wild apple tree that you want to preserve, and furthermore, pruning them at the beginning is often easier than pruning them later.
