How to Build the Metal Frame of a Wall

Table of contents:

How to Build the Metal Frame of a Wall
How to Build the Metal Frame of a Wall
Anonim

Installing a steel frame for the construction of a new wall is an operation that is mostly carried out in offices and private homes, and offers several advantages over wood. The steel profiles are perfectly straight, do not change over time and are easy to store. Read the article to find out how to build using steel profiles.

Steps

Part 1 of 2: Measure and Design

Install Metal Studs Step 1
Install Metal Studs Step 1

Step 1. Rent or buy equipment

Working with steel rails and posts requires some special tools. You can usually borrow the best equipment at stores that rent DIY equipment. You will need:

  • Cutter or circular saw
  • Expansion dowels and self-tapping screws
  • Nailer or hammer drill
  • Screwdriver
  • Box of chalks
  • Level
  • Laser or plumb line level
Install Metal Studs Step 2
Install Metal Studs Step 2

Step 2. Determine the number of rails and steel posts

In a wall, keep in mind that normally a riser should be placed every 40-60 cm. Buy the guides (U-rails) always in steel for the lower and upper parts of the wall, measuring the linear meters of the wall and double them. Add an additional post for each side of the window or door you are going to make.

Install Metal Studs Step 3
Install Metal Studs Step 3

Step 3. Mark on the floor, with chalk, the lines on which you are going to fix the guides

Make a line with chalks along the entire perimeter, where you will go to lay the steel guides of your new wall.

Install Metal Studs Step 4
Install Metal Studs Step 4

Step 4. Screw the guide to the floor

Use the chalk line to properly position the bottom rail on the floor and screw it on. First make a hole with the drill, then place the dowel and fix it well with the screwdriver. In case the floor is reinforced concrete, use a nailer or hammer drill to make the holes, it will be easier.

Beware of corners and long straight lines when laying the rails or rails. Position the guide at a right angle so that it fits snugly with the other guide. In longer walls, the guide will be overlapped by at least 10 cm and fixed to the floor with dowels

Install Metal Studs Step 5
Install Metal Studs Step 5

Step 5. Level the top track

To make sure the top and bottom tracks are exactly plumb or level, you can use a laser level, plumb line, or two water levels.

  • To use a laser level, simply place it in the middle of the lower guide (rail) (floor) and turn it on - a laser beam will exactly mark the vertical. This point is the lead on the top wall. Most businesses use a laser level for efficiency and ease of use.
  • Using a plumb bob is similar to using a laser level. Secure the wire to the ceiling and let it go down to the floor, the weight of the lead will determine exactly the exact spot.
  • If you have neither a laser level nor a plumb line, try using two water levels, graduated transparent tubes with a small faucet each for drain and air vent, connected by a hose. Keep both levels together, extend one to the ceiling and the other to the floor, making sure both levels are plumb. Then mark the "plumb" point on the floor or ceiling.
Install Metal Studs Step 6
Install Metal Studs Step 6

Step 6. Once the lead is established, connect the U-track to the ceiling

Use a drill and a cordless screwdriver (more or less the same procedure you used to fix the rail or guide to the floor).

If the rail is placed perpendicular or parallel to the ceiling joists, fix it with expansion anchors

Part 2 of 2: Fixing the Metal Structure

Install Metal Studs Step 7
Install Metal Studs Step 7

Step 1. To cut rails or posts that are too long, first cut both sides of the U-profile with shears

Make a straight cut, fold the bottom and then cut.

  • In order to later make the electrical and plumbing systems, drill holes in the uprights, all aligned. When doing this, protect your hands with heavy work gloves.
  • To cut several pieces at once, use a circular saw with a metal blade.
  • The easiest and fastest way to cut U-profiles is to mark both sides with a utility knife and then bend the profile back and forth until it breaks.
Install Metal Studs Step 8
Install Metal Studs Step 8

Step 2. Insert the post by securing it between the two side flaps of the U-profile with locking pliers

Secure with self-tapping screws using a cordless, medium speed screwdriver.

Set the screwdriver to a speed strong enough to secure the screw, but not too strong to ruin the hole and weaken the joint

Install Metal Studs Step 9
Install Metal Studs Step 9

Step 3. Make the lintel by cutting the profile 5 cm longer than the maximum opening of the door

Cut the sides of the profile (both sides) 2, 5 cm lengthwise. Fold the base down 90 degrees using sheet metal pliers.

Install Metal Studs Step 10
Install Metal Studs Step 10

Step 4. Secure the electrical wire along the center line through each post using plastic ties

Insert a plastic bushing into each hole to prevent the cable from being damaged by rubbing against the sharp edges.

Install Metal Studs Step 11
Install Metal Studs Step 11

Step 5. Add the frame to secure doors, windows and cabinets

If the steel structure seems fragile to you, keep in mind that the stability will increase once you have applied the plasterboard sheets. Nothing prevents you from inserting strips or crosspieces to make the structure more stable.

Install Metal Studs Step 12
Install Metal Studs Step 12

Step 6. Position the 3 cm plasterboard sheets, fixing them with self-tapping screws

The screws should be placed every 20 cm along the edges (where two plates meet on an upright) and every 30 cm in the other points.

Install Metal Studs Step 13
Install Metal Studs Step 13

Step 7. Finished

You have just made a metal frame or structure that will not be damaged by moisture or fire.

Advice

  • Place the door and window frames.
  • Slightly cut the wooden jamb 5 x 10 cm, it will slide it inside the steel upright. This will make the frame very sturdy and make it easier to insert the hinges.
  • The flange (side part of the rail) of a steel post is flexible and can move when you are trying to drill with a screw, especially when two plates meet on a single post. To avoid this and give stiffness, attach the first sheet to the open side of the post (the one that is in front of the frame) and then place the second sheet of plasterboard. Grab the back of the riser near the connection point with your fingers for support and then move on.
  • Steel profiles are sold in different sizes, comparable to the size of the wooden posts and joists.
  • Regarding length and diameter, the smaller the diameter number, the greater the thickness of the steel.
  • Using self-tapping screws makes operations much easier.
  • Using a spirit level with a magnetic side can be very useful when working with steel profiles.

Warnings

  • Steel is sharp, remember to wear gloves.
  • Do not use nails. They don't hold. Instead, use specific screws for this type of structure. Ask for information at the shop.
  • Wear protective goggles both when cutting steel and when laying profiles. It can happen that a screw jumps off as you screw it and hit you.
  • Consider what you are going to hang on the new walls. Keep in mind that large objects, such as kitchen cabinets, can be too heavy for a steel frame to support, even if reinforced with plasterboard.
  • Doing any kind of work using power tools when tired or in a hurry can easily cause injury.
  • Check that the project drawn up by your architect or designer does not refer to a wooden structure!

Recommended: