If you bought a new tent or want to protect the tarpaulin that covers your boat, you need to waterproof the fabric to make it more shiny and prolong its life. This article will teach you the process using wax, commercial spray, or other household products.
Steps
Method 1 of 6: Use a Waterproofing Spray and a Seam Sealer
Step 1. Choose a dry and windless day to waterproof the fabric
Since you will need to use a sealant spray, keep in mind that it is a moisture sensitive product. Also, if you work outside and it is windy, it is possible for some dust to get into the fabric.
Step 2. Clean the fabric if it is dirty
If it can't be washed and it's just dusty or a little dirty, clean it with a vacuum cleaner or brush. If, on the other hand, it is really dirty, use a detergent formulated specifically for fabrics and fabrics.
Step 3. Make sure it's dry
You will need to use water repellent sprays and sealants, so if the fabric is damp or wet in any way these products will not adhere and, as a result, will not be effective.
Step 4. Transfer the fabric to a well-ventilated area
Try working outside if you can. If not, open a window. You can also wear goggles and gloves if you have sensitive skin or allergies: the sprays and sealants you will need to use can give off a very pungent odor.
Step 5. Purchase a waterproofing spray and seam sealer
You can find them in stores that sell camping and outdoor sports items. If the fabric you are going to waterproof will be used outdoors and exposed to the sun for some time, consider getting a spray that also contains UV protection; this way you will prevent it from fading.
Waterproofing sprays and sealants are effective on nylon, canvas and leather
Step 6. Hold the can 15-20 cm away from the surface of the fabric and apply the sealant so that it forms a light, even layer
Make sure you slightly overlap each amount you are going to spray.
Step 7. Wait for the spray to dry, then apply a second coat
Let it dry completely before using the fabric. This usually takes about 4 hours, but as each brand is different, it is best to read the instructions on the can.
Step 8. Apply sealant to all seams
Normally this product is sold in a bottle with an applicator on the top. Simply slide it over the seams while gently squeezing the vial. It will make the seams more resistant to the action of time and will ensure that water does not get inside.
Method 2 of 6: Use Laundry Detergent and Alum
Step 1. Start by cleaning the fabric
If it's dirty, wash it. If it's just dusty or lightly soiled and you can't get it wet, use a vacuum cleaner or brush. If, on the other hand, it is really dirty and it is not possible to wash it, use a detergent formulated specifically for fabrics and fabrics.
Step 2. Combine 450g of laundry detergent with 7.5L of warm water in a large container
It is preferable that the container is large enough so that all the fabric can be immersed in the cleaning solution.
Step 3. Soak the fabric in the solution until it is completely impregnated
If some parts float to the surface, try squeezing them with a glass jar or bottle.
Step 4. Hang the fabric in the sun to dry
Do not fold it over a hanger, otherwise the two parts will stick together. Rather, grab it by the top and hook it to the coat hanger. If it's too big to hang like this, attach it to a long piece of string stretched between two poles or trees. It is best to let it dry without folding, in a single layer.
Step 5. Combine 250g of alum with 7.5L of hot water in a second container
Shake the solution until the alum powder dissolves. You can buy alum powder at a herbalist's shop or on the internet.
Step 6. Soak the fabric in the alum powder solution for at least 2 hours
Make sure it is completely soaked. If it floats to the surface, crush it with a jar or glass bottle.
Step 7. Hang the fabric in the sun to dry completely
Again, take care to hang it without folding it, in a single layer. Hook it to a coat hanger or piece of string.
Method 3 of 6: Using Turpentine and Soybean Oil
Step 1. Be aware that there is a risk that the fabric will darken when using this procedure
You will need to soak it with diluted turpentine oil. Generally this substance tends to change the color of fabrics, darkening them by one or two shades, so it is best to keep this in mind.
Step 2. Start by cleaning the fabric
Wash it if it's dirty. If it can't be wet, but is only slightly dirty or dusty, clean it with a vacuum cleaner or brush. If it cannot be washed and it is soiled, use a detergent specially formulated for fabrics and fabrics.
Step 3. Let it dry completely after cleaning it
You will need to treat the fabric with waxes, oils and other water repellent solutions. So, if it is damp or wet in any way, the products you intend to use will not adhere and, as a result, will not be effective.
Step 4. Transfer the fabric to a well-ventilated area
Try working outside if you can. If not, keep a window open. Turpentine can give off a rather pungent odor.
Step 5. Combine 240ml of soybean oil with 120ml of turpentine
Pour the solution into a sturdy plastic container and mix with a wooden paint and varnish stirrer. You will then need to apply the solution to the fabric with a large brush.
If you only need to treat a small piece of fabric, then you can pour the solution into a plastic spray bottle and spray it. Close the bottle and shake it to blend the mixture
Step 6. Spread the fabric out on a flat surface
Turpentine and oil can dye porous surfaces, such as wood and concrete, so if you have this fear, consider protecting your countertop with a plastic tablecloth beforehand. Do not use newsprint as it risks transferring the ink to the fabric.
Step 7. Apply the solution using a broad bristle brush
Dip it into the solution, wiping off the excess at the edge of the bucket. Smear the mixture onto the fabric with long, straight, even strokes. Proceed in this way until all the fabric is covered, always going in the same direction. Also, try to overlap the passes slightly: this way you will avoid leaving empty spaces.
- A wide, flat bristle brush will work best for this job. Avoid soft bristles, such as camel bristles.
- If you're using the spray bottle, just spray the solution onto the fabric. Try to slightly overlap each amount you are going to spray so that the application is even.
Step 8. Spread the fabric on a flat surface until it dries completely
Drying can last from a few hours to a few days. Again, turpentine and soybean oil can stain, so it would be a good idea to pre-cover the surface you're working on with a plastic tablecloth.
Method 4 of 6: Using Iron-On Vinyl
Step 1. Purchase some iron-on vinyl sheets at a DIY store or on the internet
This product does not change the look of the fabric and is great for waterproofing baby bibs and lunch bags.
Step 2. Take the fabric, but don't cut it yet if you intend to use a pattern
After waterproofing it, you can use it as a tablecloth or even cut and sew it to make a lunch bag.
Step 3. Make sure the fabric is clean and dry
If it's dirty, wash it and let it dry thoroughly.
If it can't be washed, use a vacuum cleaner or brush. You can also use a detergent specially formulated for fabrics if it is really soiled
Step 4. Lay it out on a flat surface
This will make it easier to treat. Any wrinkles or creases may wrinkle the fabric once the job is finished. If necessary, iron it to be as smooth as possible.
Step 5. Cut the vinyl sheet proportionally to the fabric
If it is too short, then you will have to adjust it to the length of the fabric, i.e. you will have to cut a few pieces and overlap them later.
Step 6. Remove the protective paper
You will notice that it has two sides: one glossy and one matte. You will also see that the vinyl sheet has two sides: one adhesive and one smooth.
Step 7. Place the adhesive side on the right side of the fabric
If the vinyl sheet is not wide enough, apply two of them next to each other. Overlap the edges by approximately 5-6mm.
Step 8. Cover the vinyl sheet with the protective paper
Make sure the glossy side of the paper is facing down and completely covers the vinyl sheet. As you pass the iron, it will protect it and prevent it from liquefying.
Step 9. Iron the backing paper
Turn on the iron and set it to medium temperature. Do not heat it too much, otherwise the vinyl risks liquefying. Pass it carefully on the paper. Don't leave it in one spot for too long and don't use steam.
Step 10. Remove the protective paper
The heat from the iron will have melted the glue on the vinyl sheet and bonded it to the fabric.
Method 5 of 6: Rub the Wax on the Fabric
Step 1. Start by cleaning the fabric
If it's dirty, wash it and let it dry thoroughly. This method works best with canvas shoes and bags.
Step 2. Purchase a natural beeswax tablet
For this job it would be better to use virgin beeswax, without additives, as the other types can contain harmful chemicals.
Step 3. Slightly heat the wax and fabric
You can do this by using a hair dryer or by leaving them out in the sun for a few minutes; in this way you will facilitate the application. The clothes should not be too hot, otherwise the wax risks liquefying.
Step 4. Rub the beeswax on the fabric in both directions
Rub from side to side and top to bottom. In this way it will be able to penetrate into the fibers of the fabric. If you need to treat a piece of clothing or a bag, use the corners of the piece of wax to reach the seams and the smallest gaps.
Step 5. Spread the wax with your fingers to make the application more even
Gently rub it into tight spots, such as seams, corners, and pockets. If the garment you are treating has buttons, be sure to clean them.
Step 6. Reheat the fabric with a hair dryer for about 5 minutes
This will allow the wax to melt and penetrate the fibers. You will notice that the fabric will get a little darker.
Step 7. Sand again with your fingers if necessary
If you find patches or lumps of wax, smear the excess with your fingers in circular motions to level it out. By doing so, you will improve the finish of the garment.
Step 8. Place the fabric in a warm, dry place
Leave it there for 24 hours, after which it will be waterproofed and ready to use. You will notice that it has become a bit stiffer and darker than before; it's normal. Over time it will soften, but it will not become clearer again.
Method 6 of 6: Using Linseed Oil
Step 1. Start by cleaning the fabric
If it's dirty, you'll need to wash it and let it dry thoroughly.
Step 2. Try to work outside or in a well-ventilated area
Linseed oil can give off a pungent odor, so doing this work in an environment where air circulation is greater will prevent you from getting dizzy. If you choose an outdoor location, make sure it is dust-free and protected from the wind, otherwise unwanted residues may be trapped in the fabric once waterproofed. If you can't work outside, keep a window open.
Step 3. Stretch the fabric over an open frame on the back side and secure it with hooks
You can use an inexpensive one, after removing the glass and cardboard backing. Make sure the fabric completely covers the space inside the frame. If it is too big, then you will have to treat it one piece at a time.
Step 4. Buy linseed oil
Alternatively, you can use jojoba oil. It's a little lighter, so it might make your job easier.
Step 5. Begin by applying a generous layer of linseed oil to the fabric
It is preferable to completely impregnate it. Don't worry if you feel like you are using too much - you can always remove the excess. Try applying the oil with a broad boar bristle brush or a rag.
- Avoid camel bristles. They are soft and too weak to distribute the oil.
- If the oil comes in a small bottle, consider pouring it into a larger cup.
Step 6. Wait 30 minutes before wiping off any oil residue with a clean cloth
This will give it enough time to penetrate the fabric, impregnating it. After the half hour has passed, you will notice some residue on the surface of the fabric. Use a clean cloth to remove it.
Step 7. Let the fabric dry for 24 hours, then repeat the process
Once dry, take the linseed oil again and apply another layer. Wait another 30 minutes, then wipe off the excess oil with a clean cloth. You can roll out one or two more layers.
Step 8. Consider dyeing the fabric using oil paints between passes
Apply the color using an oil paint brush. Usually these tools are made with stiff bristles, such as boar bristles or taklon, which is synthetic. Apply linseed oil with a brush instead of a rag so as not to fade the design.
Advice
- You can apply lard to waterproof leather shoes, but you will need to do this every time you use them in the rain or snow. Rub it well.
- The wax may disappear after some time. If this happens, just reapply it.
- If you work with wax and the smell bothers you, wait until it dries, then place the fabric in the freezer and leave it until the next morning.
- A wax-coated fabric can hold its shape. You can also flatten it by smoothing it with your hands.
Warnings
- Dispose of the turpentine according to the waste regulations in force in the place where you live. Do not throw it down the drain in the house or in the manholes on the street.
- Do not wash the wax-coated fabric in hot water. Remove stains with cold water only.
- Do not leave a wax-coated fabric in the sun or near a heat source. The latter will tend to soften and become sticky.
- Turpentine and sealant sprays can give off pungent odors. If you start to get a headache during use, take a break and get some fresh air. Try to work in a well-ventilated area.