Currently, pen building kits are widely available online and allow you to make beautiful items at a relatively low cost. If you don't have woodworking tools or the patience to complete this project, you can make feathers out of many common materials, such as clay or the back feathers of a bird.
Steps
Method 1 of 2: Quick and Simple Techniques
Step 1. Model the pen using polymer clay
Take out the ink cartridge of a pen and cut a bamboo skewer to the same length; sprinkle the latter with petroleum jelly and use it to pierce a ball of clay. Roll the ball with your hands until it extends into a "snake" that covers the entire skewer. Close one end and cook the material according to the instructions on the package. Wait for the hollow cylinder to cool for 5-10 minutes, take out the stick and then glue the ink cartridge once the clay has completely cooled.
Step 2. Use a piece of cane
A thin bamboo rod is ideal, but one that is sturdy and hollow is fine. Cut a segment above one joint and just below the next; then insert the cartridge of any ballpoint pen into the hollow end of the barrel. Proceed gradually and cut the solid end diagonally until you see the tip of the cartridge poke; close the hole with clay or putty to prevent the ink from escaping.
If the inner tube moves too much, secure it with strong glue; if it is too long, a little tape is enough
Step 3. Make a quill pen
Choose a large tail feather and trim away enough feathers to ensure a good tip grip. Sand the latter to smooth it and then cut it diagonally at a steep angle. To allow the pen to absorb the ink, make an incision from the tip inwards and then cut the end to smooth it.
For best results, dip the pen in very hot water until it bends effortlessly before cutting; later, you can harden it again in the hot sand
Method 2 of 2: Making a Good Quality Pen
Step 1. Purchase a pen kit
It is very likely that you will need to order it online, as it is not easy to find it in craft shops; typically, it includes an ink cartridge and some metal pieces.
- See the "Things You Will Need" section to find out which extra tools you need to use before purchasing; the dealer where you buy the kit can supply you with the rest of the tools as well.
- This article provides instructions for any type of kit; Ballpoint pens are slightly easier to assemble, but twist-action pens are typically the cheapest options.
Step 2. Cut out or purchase a pen pad
It is a simple rectangular parallelepiped with a hole in the center, it can be made of wood or Corian. You can practice with a block cut out at home from scrap lumber and then move on to specific bars made with the finest materials and "stabilized" with treatments for a better grip.
Line up the two brass tubes in the kit. Cut the block slightly longer than the two tubes. The other dimensions are not important as long as the parallelepiped is wider than the final size of the pen; a block of 13x1,5x1,5cm should be fine for most projects
Step 3. Saw the box
Line up the two brass tubes next to the piece of wood and divide it into two segments, each slightly longer than its metal tube.
- Most kits contain two brass tubes, but some have three; they can have different lengths, so use a different one as a reference to cut each segment of wood.
- Draw a pencil mark along the real elements of the block to be able to easily align the grain of the material.
Step 4. Pierce the block
If you got one from scrap wood, insert it into a pillar drill and drill a hole in the center; the size of the tip must correspond to the external diameter of the brass tubes present in the kit. Go slowly and penetrate the material 1.5cm at a time to avoid fracturing it. Set the depth of the hole so that the tip barely touches the opposite end; if it completely passes through the parallelepiped, it destroys it, forcing you to start over. Saw off the tip of the block so that the hole is exposed.
The most used diameters for the lumens of the pens are those of 7 or 8 mm. If your drill is equipped with bits calibrated with the British imperial system, you should do some tests on a piece of scrap wood to find the one that best fits the size of the brass pipes; if the lumen is slightly too large, you can block the inner tube with strong glue
Step 5. Sand and glue the tubes
Sand the external surfaces with 120 grit coarse sandpaper; alternatively, cover the ends with plasticine or dental wax to prevent the glue from getting into the tube. Smear the adhesive and insert each tube into the corresponding segment of the block; wear gloves to avoid getting dirty.
- The most commonly used products are cyanoacrylate glue and quick-setting epoxy glue.
- If you opt for polyurethane glue, wait to apply it until the final stage, when you are ready to assemble the pen. This substance tends to expand as it dries and could ruin the job (which can happen with all adhesives, but most builders prefer to take this risk rather than dealing with loose pipes).
Step 6. Equalize the ends with a pen cutter
Wait until the glue is perfectly dry and cured, respecting the instructions on the package. Insert the tool pin into one of the tubes and rotate it clockwise so that the cutting edge is perpendicular to the surface. Repeat this process for each end of the various blocks until the material is flush with the edge of the tube.
- This is a good time to check that there is no glue inside the brass core; if present, you can scrape it off using any tool.
- Alternatively, use a bench grinder, although some work is required to set it up properly.
Step 7. Fit the various segments and washers to the spindle
Align the various elements respecting the assembly order and insert them on the spindle pin. Put the washers between one segment and another and another at each end; lock the two ends of the tool to hold the pen steady.
- See the instructions on the kit package for the size of the washers to use.
- If you don't really want to buy a pen mandrel, you can individually insert each segment on a 60 ° rotating pin of a lathe; however, modeling each piece separately is more complicated if you are a beginner.
Step 8. Rotate the pen on the lathe
Insert the spindle into the machine and shape the blocks up to the diameter of the washers; for this you can use gouges, chisels or other rotating tools for the lathe. After a first rough machining, stop the machine, loosen the spindle nut and tailstock before continuing. Usually, these elements tighten quite a lot during rotation and could deform the pen. Continue to rotate and shape the block until you have achieved the result you want.
If you don't have a lathe, mount an abrasive cylinder on the drill press and press the block against it; this way you have much less control, but a 300 euro lathe is not worth buying for a 2 euro pen
Step 9. Sand away the machining marks
Remove the pen from the lathe and rub it with 220 grit dry sandpaper; then repeat the procedure with gradually finer sheets, switching to 320, 400 and 600 grit. This way, you get a smoother surface.
There are many variations regarding the exact method of grinding, so you do not necessarily have to respect the grits indicated in this article; the high quality pens are also sanded with abrasive mesh up to 1200 grit
Step 10. Apply the finishing product and sand again
You can use any finish, lacquer or wood polish to give the pen a shiny, protective layer. Finish the job with a wet grind using the finest grit paper. Try to polish the surface with a 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 3600 and 4000 grit (for higher values switch to mesh or abrasive fabrics). This is a tedious process, but this level of finish is considered the minimum acceptable by the pen makers; some perfectionists go as far as using 1200 grit products.
Apply a paste wax for an even more shiny look
Step 11. Assemble the pen
The kit should also contain instructions for assembling the various elements; you can use a specific press or a simple bench vise to insert each piece of metal. When the various components fit together, the pen is complete. This is the process to follow for a classic twist mechanism pen:
- Insert the cap into the upper brass tube;
- Snap the mechanism into the lower tube. Before applying pressure, lay the mechanism close to the block and rotate it to release the tip. Take note of how much you have to press so that the tip comes out slightly from the body of the pen;
- Press the clip and cap onto the top block.
Advice
- Remove the bark and paint the branch.
- Experiment with different sized twigs.
- Use ink of different colors, such as green, red, blue, pink, purple, and so on.
- The pen cutter becomes dull after a few uses. Hold it vertically and observe the vertical surfaces of the cutting tip, which should be sharpened with a whetstone until the four horizontal edges above them are all in the same plane.
- Some kits come with brass bezel tubes and custom drill bits that allow you to give your pens different styles.
- Experienced builders are able to replace bushings with gauges to get more precise measurements.
Warnings
- Ink can smudge surfaces, make sure your work area is liquid proof!
- Do not gnaw on the tip of the pen as splinters can get stuck in the gums while the ink may be toxic.
- Be careful when handling sharp objects!
- Splinters could get stuck in the skin.
- The ink may stain clothing.
