Silk is a sumptuous and sensual fabric, appreciated by anyone over the centuries. Produced from the cocoons of silkworms, it is also the strongest natural fiber. Its smooth and slippery texture involves some difficulties that require special attention when sewing it. There are, however, simple techniques to make silk easier to manage during all stages of a hand sewing job.
Steps
Part 1 of 5: Silk pre-wash
Step 1. Hand wash the fabric
Silk tends to shrink, changing the size and appearance of the pattern you intend to sew. Thanks to the pre-wash you will reduce the possibility of the fabric shrinking when you wash it once the job is completed. Normally, silk shrinks by about 5-10% and, in some cases, when the weave is looser, up to 15%.
- Use a mild detergent, such as Woolite, in warm water, washing the silk in the sink or basin. Alternatively, use a mild shampoo.
- You can also machine wash some silk fabrics. Use the gentle cycle and a mild detergent.
- Some silk types, such as dupioni silk, can only be dry cleaned.
Step 2. Wash strong colors separately
If you have a bright or intense piece of silk, it is best to wash it separately. The colors used on these fabrics tend to fade and, of course, you don't want them to fade. Take the time to wash the scraps separately to prevent them from fading and staining each other.
By prewashing brightly colored fabrics, you will also ensure that they do not fade when you wash them once you have finished sewing
Step 3. Wash the fabric in water and white vinegar
The vinegar will help remove the soap residue from the fabric. Mix 60 ml of white vinegar for every liter of water in a basin or sink. Move the silk to remove the detergent. Discard the water and leave the fabric in the sink.
Step 4. Rinse the fabric again in the water
Run a second rinse, this time without vinegar. Simple water will be able to remove any traces of vinegar and eliminate its smell.
Step 5. Don't wring the silk
When you have finished hand washing the fabric, do not twist or wring it to remove excess water. Instead, place it on a towel and then add another one on top.
You can remove any remaining moisture by ironing the towel at medium temperature
Step 6. Dry the fabric
There are several methods of drying silk, which vary according to preferences. Try partially drying the fabric in the dryer. Remove it when it's still wet and spread it out to dry completely.
Alternatively, you can dry the silk between two towels or spread it on a thread immediately after washing it
Part 2 of 5: Collect the Sewing Supplies
Step 1. Choose a sharp pair of scissors
Since silk is slippery, use very sharp scissors so that the cuts along the fabric are clean.
It may be helpful to use a pair of dressmaker's and zigzag scissors. The latter create small triangles along the edges of the fabrics, avoiding the fraying typical of silk
Step 2. Choose a small needle for your sewing machine
With a thin, pointed needle you will make smaller holes in the fabric. Since silk tends to show stitch holes very easily, choose a small needle when starting your sewing job.
- One Microtex needle No. 60/8 or universal is ideal.
- Keep a few spare needles handy as you sew. It wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it every now and then, so you always sew with a perfectly sharp needle. The fibers of the silk are very resistant and are likely to dull it easily.
- If you are sewing by hand, choose a very thin and pointed one.
Step 3. Choose a good quality cotton or polyester thread
The thread must be combined with the fabric. Those made of polycotton or 100% polyester are great choices. Although some people prefer to sew silk with silk thread, it is not very strong and can come off easily.
Step 4. Choose a flat foot for the sewing machine
The sewing machine foot is used to pinch the fabric as the needle moves up and down. The use of a flat foot is recommended, as it will not get caught in the silk as the fabric passes through the machine.
Alternatively, choose a foot that prevents the silk from slipping
Step 5. Clean and dust the sewing machine
Whenever you sew, it would be a good idea to work with a clean, dust-free machine, but this is especially important when dealing with delicate fabrics, such as silk. Therefore, dust the machine thoroughly by removing any residue. To do this, you can use a can of compressed air to spray into the cracks and openings of the appliance.
Part 3 of 5: Cutting the Silk
Step 1. Wash your hands before touching the silk
When you are ready to work the fabric, wash your hands with soap and water, then dry them thoroughly. This will remove any residue or traces of grease that could stain the fabric.
This is especially important if you are sewing by hand
Step 2. Insert a layer of muslin or tissue paper under the piece of fabric
Tissue paper, muslin, or even wrapping paper can prevent silk from slipping when you cut it with scissors.
Tissue paper is especially useful because you can continue to use it to hold silk in place, even when you pin and sew it
Step 3. Apply a fabric stabilizer spray
You can also use a fabric stabilizer spray, formulated to slightly stiffen the fabric so that it is easier to manage during the cutting phase. You can find it in haberdashery and on the Internet.
Step 4. Use silk pins and pattern weights
Silk pins are ultra thin and leave very small holes on this type of fabric. They are useful for making the pattern adhere to the fabric, without leaving visible traces. Pattern weights are used to hold the fabric firmly on the work surface so it does not shift as it is being cut. You can also maintain fabric by using heavy items, such as canned preserves.
Step 5. Cut the pattern parts one by one
When working with other types of fabrics, it is usually possible to cut out two parts of the pattern by overlapping the fabric. However, with silk it is best to cut out each part of the pattern separately. It is too slippery and, by cutting two layers of fabric at the same time, you risk making the wrong cut of the model.
For areas of the pattern to be doubled along a fold, redraw the piece as if it were folded. This way, you won't need to cut two layers of fabric at once
Part 4 of 5: Prepare the Fabric to Sew
Step 1. Use silk pins
Silk pins are ultra thin and leave very small holes on this type of fabric. They are useful for making the pattern adhere to the fabric, without leaving visible traces.
Alternatively, use staples or paper clip pliers to hold the fabric in place
Step 2. Place the pins along the seam allowances
The seam allowances are the portions of fabric along the edges that will be hidden when the job is finished. Since silk shows seam holes very easily, pin along the seam allowances to prevent the holes from being too visible. Normally, the width of the margins is 1.5 cm. Typical sewing allowances are ½ inch or 5/8 inch in width.
Step 3. Iron the seams using a low temperature iron and a filter cloth
Iron the silk so that the stitching is more visible when you sew. This will also help you sew in the right places. Make sure that the iron is not too hot and use a filter cloth on the fabric to prevent it from being in direct contact with the iron.
Many irons have a silk program, which you can use for this purpose
Step 4. Trim the frayed hems
Silk tends to fray easily and may fray to a greater extent after prewashing than a new piece of fabric. Trim the hems to remove excess threads and make them even. Eliminate any hanging strands.
Part 5 of 5: Sew the Silk
Step 1. Hand baste the fabric
Basting is a technique that allows you to join two pieces of fabric together using long, loose stitches in order to make sewing easier. Since silk is a rather slippery fabric, it can be helpful to baste it by hand with stitches that look like a dotted line.
You can find several tutorials on the Internet to learn how to baste
Step 2. Place a piece of tissue paper under the silk
If the fabric slips excessively as you sew, try placing a piece of tissue paper under the area to be sewn. The needle will penetrate both layers, sewing them together.
When you are done sewing, you can tear off the tissue paper
Step 3. Apply a fabric stabilizer spray
You can also use a fabric stabilizer spray formulated to lightly stiffen the fabric so that it is easier to manage when cutting. You can find it in haberdashery and on the Internet.
Step 4. Test the seam on a scrap of fabric
Check if your sewing machine settings are suitable for silk by doing a sewing test on a scrap of silk. Adjust the tension and thread level before sewing the pattern you want.
Try to make 3-5 stitches every inch, although the amount of stitches can vary depending on the job
Step 5. Tighten the spool and bobbin thread
As you place the fabric in the sewing machine, unfold and pull the spool and bobbin thread in front of you. This will prevent it from accidentally getting caught in the foot of the machine, causing holes or overstitching when sewing.
Step 6. Manually seat the needle into the fabric
Turn the handwheel until the needle is inserted into the fabric. This maneuver will ensure that the machine starts very slowly and that the fabric does not curl and does not get caught in the foot.
Step 7. Keep the fabric straight
Gently guide the fabric so it stays straight as it passes through the machine. Be careful not to stretch it, though, as it may curl once the job is done.
Step 8. Make a few stitches, then backstitch
Start topstitching and then secure it by giving a few back stitches. This way, the seam will not give out. Do this very gently so that the silk doesn't slip or curl accidentally at first.
Step 9. Sew at a slow and steady pace
Silk tends to wrinkle and collect, so go slowly when sewing. Follow a steady rhythm so that the topstitching is even and regular.
Step 10. Check frequently how you are doing
Slow down or pause to make sure the fabric passes through the machine correctly. Look at the seams to see if they are flat and smooth.
Step 11. Be careful if you need to unstitch any stitches
Unstitching silk is a dangerous operation, as there is a risk of leaving holes in the fabric that may be visible even when the job is finished. Decide if you need to unpick. In this case, proceed very gently and slowly.
To make the holes in the seams less visible, rub them with your fingernail from the wrong side of the fabric. Moisten the fabric by sprinkling a little water and then pass the iron at medium or low temperature
Step 12. Finish sewing
Silk frays very easily and can compromise the quality of the work if the hems fray up to the seams. Finish the seams with an overedge or English (or French) seam.
- For the overedge you will need an overlock. This is the most effective method, as it sews the edge of the fabric and seals it inside the area where you made the overedge.
- You can also use other finishing methods, such as zigzag, bias and overcast stitch.
