Stylists use a technique called "draping" to create tailor-made dresses after designing them. It consists of draping, for example, a muslin fabric on a dress mannequin and pinning it in the right way. Once the draping process is finished. you can write the measurements on the paper to create a pattern, or repeat the process with the right fabric to make the dress.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Prepare the Material
Step 1. Buy a clothes mannequin
You will need an adjustable mannequin to make sure the dress is cut to the exact measurements. Generally, the price of a new mannequin is around € 200.
Step 2. Adjust the mannequin according to the height, waist and chest measurements you will be using for your model
Step 3. Create a sketch of the dress you want to create
Try to make lots of designs that depict the dress from the front, back and sides.
Step 4. Look for some muslin for the drapery
Choose muslin whose weight resembles that of the material you want to use for the final dress, so that it falls similarly. This will reduce your material costs, as you will be using inexpensive fabric for the prototype.
Step 5. Mark a center line running down the front and back of the dress, using tape to help you create a symmetrical dress
Part 2 of 3: Drape the Bodice
Step 1. If your dress will be made from a lightweight fabric, start with a base
A lining will help your dress retain its chosen shape. If your dress is going to be made with a heavy fabric, you can skip this step instead.
Step 2. Pin the liner piece by piece onto the mannequin
Often stylists make a rather generic base using the mannequin's measurements, then adjust it once placed on the mannequin itself.
Step 3. Make sure you have enough fabric to cover the parts of the dress between the hems
You can always cut more, but you can't add more without changing designs.
Step 4. Drape the fabric around the front bodice
We start from here because it is the part that requires the most seams.
Step 5. Choose the place with the most seams and start pinning the fabric onto the mannequin
Step 6. Mark the extra seams using chalk and following your design
Step 7. Compare the draped fabric often with your project to check that you are doing the right thing
Part 3 of 3: Finish the Drapery
Step 1. Once the front bodice is finished, move on to the back
Keep stopping with the pins and compare the result with the project until you are satisfied.
Step 2. Switch to the front skirt
Mark the lines that will subsequently be cut with a piece of chalk.
Step 3. Complete the drape with the back of the skirt
Step 4. Baste the various parts and folds onto the lining
Keep the pins in place as long as possible. Removing the pins too early could cause you to lose folds - this is a common mistake in the draping process.
Step 5. Remove the pins once an entire section has been tacked
Remember to fold the raw edges towards the inside of the seam to hide them.
Step 6. Cut the excess fabric along the lines drawn with the chalk
Remember to leave a seam allowance. If you have little fabric left, you can fold it inside, instead of cutting it off.
Step 7. Remove the dress from the mannequin and go through the seams with the sewing machine
Alternatively you can sew it by hand.
Step 8. Cut away the basting
Use your template to build a dress with your chosen material. Once you have mastered the draping process, you can choose to start directly with the final material, so you don't have to drape the dress twice.
