How to Wire a Prefab House (with Pictures)

2024 Author: Samantha Chapman | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 09:13

Here's how to wire an existing facility for internet, TV, and more.

Steps

Step 1. First you need to establish the "route" of the cables through the house

Remember that, in most cases, the posts will be positioned vertically, from floor to ceiling. The location of the ceiling joists varies depending on the builder, house, building code etc. Go to the attic, if you have one, and look around, or drill a small hole somewhere in the ceiling and check the situation.

Step 2. Remember that it is always better to do less work

Try to think of a path that allows you to keep cuts and perforations to a minimum. Built-in ceilings (such as in a two-story house) are more complicated, as you will need to cut a lot of drywall to run the cables through the joists and not along them.

Step 3. For illustrative purposes, let's say we need to install a Cat5 Ethernet cable from a router on the first floor to a study on the second floor of our house

Replace "Ethernet" cable with any type of cable you are interested in. The only variable are the connectors at the ends.

Our router is located in the farthest corner from the office (just to complicate things). FURTHERMORE, the ceiling joists are arranged to get in the way of our intended path (even worse). Sometimes it is best to find an area with an existing system, such as an electrical outlet or video outlet. You could then run the line through the existing holes. In this case it is advisable to place our wall container nearby

Step 4. Make sure you know where to place the entry point in the upstairs office

• Remember:

  You can get by more easily if there is a ceiling cornice in the house. Pierce the frame with a small crowbar. Make sure you get someone to help you with this step and try to be careful, especially with a molding of a certain age, which will tend to break even more easily in case of hasty work. Then pass the cable inside the molding, and then let it descend into the walls as described below

• Explanation on the wall containers:

  • There are mainly two types of wall container. Some containers are meant to be mounted in new buildings, where there is no drywall. They are generally designed to be mounted without the hindrance of a drywall or other obstacles.
  • The second type, on the other hand, must be mounted in an already finished house, in which there is no longer the luxury of an open space. Typically this type has small fins that penetrate behind the drywall and fix the box to the wall once screwed. He is the type we will need for our work.

  

  Step 5. Use a post finder to find the posts in the wall and know where to place the container

  

  Step 6. Mark the position of the riser with a pencil

  The uprights are generally positioned at a distance of 40 cm from each other. Sometimes, however, they can be further away, depending on the building code, if it is a non-load-bearing wall and to limit costs

  

  Step 7. Remove any crumbling moldings

  Place a tarp on the floor.

  

  Step 8. ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION

  

  Step 9. Turn off the switches in the room you are working in

  Doing so will ensure your safety in case you should touch or cut any cables in the wall. It is advisable to do this every time you work inside a wall.

  

  Step 10. Use a utility knife to cut a hole the size of the wall container

  Remember, the outer flap of the box will serve to "secure" it against the drywall, holding the flaps to the back. Don't cut a hole that is too large. It is better that it is a little smaller, as it can still be enlarged later.

  

  Step 11. Look inside the wall to identify systems or other problematic points

  From here on, things get complicated. Since our cables will have to go through the joists, the only possibility is to cut the drywall of the ceiling. Remember that this is a recessed ceiling between two floors. In your home, however, the situation may be less complex: this article deliberately deals with the worst possible scenario

  

  Step 12. Use a tape measure to draw a long straight line

  Preferably trace it close to the wall (20-25cm away) to hide any imperfections when replacing the drywall.

  

  Step 13. Cut a hole in the corner of the ceiling from which we want to start the cables

  Check inside the wall that there are no obstacles. Once it is determined that the road is clear, I can make long cuts through the ceiling. Make sure these drywall pieces can be remounted later. Also try to cut in the middle of the joists, so that you have a structure to reattach the drywall to.

  Now we will have a nice opening in front of us to work on. Take a spear drill bit and drill a series of straight holes along the joist to pass the cables through. Drill the holes high enough so that if we decide to reassemble the drywall we won't damage the cables

  

  Step 14. We will need to repeat these steps for all areas of the ceiling through which we will need to run the cables

  If we had to run the cables along the joists, instead, it would be enough to cut a hole at the beginning and one at the end, using a cable guide to pass the wire through the ceiling. Since we have established the path from the start, we should have already figured out where to cut.

  

  Step 15. We should find ourselves with a passage to run the cables to the second floor

  

  Step 16. Go to the studio and cut a hole for a wall container wherever you like, following the steps outlined above

  Check inside the wall to verify the absence of obstacles.

  Your friend (let's call him Gianni) will have stayed on the first floor to help us find the perfect spot to drill. Use a hammer or any other tool to tap the floor along the hole until you both find the exact spot

  

  Step 17. Use the spear drill bit again to drill from first floor to second floor

  We will have Gianni do it, so that he can observe and check that the hole arrives in the right place, which will generally be a thicker set of boards, since it is a load-bearing structure.

  If everything goes right, we should be ready to run the cables. If something is wrong, fix it

  

  Step 18. Start from above, in order to take advantage of gravity as much as possible

  Thread the cable through the holes and pull it gently. When making a turn, pull as much cable as possible before turning to reduce the pressure on the cable.

  

  Step 19. If you have to use a grommet and you have never done it, it's simple

  Unroll it as many times as necessary, pass it through the opening until it reaches its destination and attach it to the cable using electrician's tape. Then gently pull it back. There is nothing else to know.

  

  Step 20. Now all we have to do is run the ends of the cable into their respective wall boxes, attach any connectors etc

  and check the cables before closing everything.

  

  Step 21. Since we've done a great job and everything is working fine, it's time to put the drywall back on

  

  Step 22. Screw or glue the drywall to reattach it to the walls (using any construction glue)

  Fix it and treat it. Sand it and paint it. Then replace any broken moldings in the process.

  

  Step 23. Here's how to wire an existing structure

  Specific cases may have significant variations from this guide. Make all the necessary changes, but now you will surely have the necessary basics to do this job.

  Advice

  If you have never done such a job before, it is advisable to do some research online or ask for help from a more experienced friend

  Warnings

  • Possible electrical hazard
  • Possible damage to home or people
  • Be careful if you choose to try your hand at this job
  • Do not try to do this if you are unsure of your abilities or have limited or non-existent knowledge of the world of construction, wiring, piping, etc.
  • Possible danger to plumbing systems.
  • Just use common sense. If you're not 100% sure you can do it, hire a professional.
  • This article is based on the author's knowledge and experience. Do not try to follow these instructions if you are unfamiliar with the tools and their use.
  • This article is intended as a generic guide and its author assumes no responsibility for any damage or loss of any kind.