Uromastyx lizards (also known as spiny-tailed lizards) are reptiles that live in many areas, including North Africa and India. They are widespread, but little known by reptile enthusiasts. Here's how to take care of it.
Steps
Step 1. Ask yourself a few questions:
Before buying this lizard, you need to ask yourself: Do I have the time, money and skills to care for it? Will I be able to make her happy in an artificial habitat? Who will I entrust with the care when I go on vacation? If you answer one of these questions in the negative, do not proceed with the purchase of a uromastyx lizard. Uromastyx lizards are not easy to care for and require dedication and commitment. If, on the other hand, you are able to satisfy all these needs, then read on.
Step 2. Choose your uromastyx lizard:
There are many different species of uromastyx lizards, but in this article we will offer a brief overview of the most common ones (it is preferable to buy a captive-bred specimen because wild-caught species do not feed enough and are unhappy):
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Uromastyx aegyptia:
it is the largest uromastic of the species, as it can reach up to 75 cm in length. It is mostly colorless and has very fine scales. She is not famous for her sociable nature.
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Uromastyx from Mali:
it is one of the most famous. It has a nice temperament, a surprisingly black body and phosphorescent yellow designs that get brighter in the heat. This lizard species reaches up to 35.6 - 38.1 cm in length.
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Uromastyx ornata:
it is the most beautiful species of the lizards described in this article, but also the most expensive. It is very similar to uromastyx ocellata, and the characteristic that distinguishes it is the tooth-like scales on the back, up to the attachment of the ears.
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Set up the cage. Uromastics require a lot of space and some special care, sometimes difficult to satisfy.
Care for Uromastyx Lizards Step 3 -
Cage:
The size of uromastics varies from 30.5 cm (Uromastyx ornata) to 91.5 cm (Uromastyx aegyptia). They need spacious cages. Uromastyx ornata could be kept in a 190 liter aquarium with a heat resistant mesh cover (available from pet stores). For larger species such as uromastyx aegyptia, it would be preferable to build the cage, as finding a suitable size is very difficult.
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Substrate:
The best substrate is probably sand (make sure it's well washed). It is less expensive than calcium-containing sand, which is usually not recommended, because it carries a high risk of intestinal obstruction in lizards, who could still be given the amount of calcium needed, based on their weight, to prevent metabolic bone disease. Note that the sand may be hard for lizards shorter than 18cm (read warnings for more information). For small and growing lizards it would be preferable to use newspapers. An alternative is bird food, although it is preferable not to use more than 2.5 cm of substrate, because the lizard would flounder and would not be able to find footholds. Make sure you get rid of the sunflower seeds as they are pointed and could damage the lizard's internal organs.
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Heating and Lighting:
You should use a heat lamp, reptile neon lights, and a UV light. Make sure the lizard isn't directly exposed to the heat source. Sunburns are not curable and are sometimes fatal. The hot end of the tub should have a temperature of about 50 ° C, while the cold end should have a temperature of 26 ° C (in the winter months the temperature must be lowered slightly, around 37-43 ° C). Use a lamp that emits UV-A and UV-B rays (read the instructions carefully). During the night all lamps should be turned off and the temperature reduced to 18-21 ° C. Thermal pads are not the best source of heat, as they do not heat the pool sufficiently. Place a thermometer near both ends of the aquarium, or on all four sides, if you have a square tank (read the warnings for more information on sources of light and heat).
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Positioning of objects:
You should place the heating at one end of the tank, to obtain areas with different temperatures. You need a hiding place for each end. The hiding place is a small lair or a covered pit in which the lizard can burrow. For hiding places at the cold end, bricks are good. For those at the warm end, the terrace blocks create two levels, so that the lizard can bask on the surface and also enjoy some shade in the cave below. You could also stick stones in the sand to allow the lizard to perch on them. Remember to plant the stones all the way in as uromastyx lizards love to dig. If they manage to burrow under the stone, they could get stuck, or even worse, crushed.
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Humidity:
In many areas, the humidity reaches unbearable levels for uromastics. Systems such as centralized air conditioning are ideal for dehumidifying the air, but alternatively, a dehumidifier should suffice. Remember to place thermometers for temperature and humidity in the tub. Do not use water containers, because uromastics do not need stagnant water, which among other things would help to raise the humidity level, which should be 10, maximum 40%.
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Provide adequate nutrition. The best feature of uromastyx lizards is that they feed on foods that can be purchased from the greengrocer. Adult species eat a mixture of green leafy vegetables such as cabbage and mixed salads. Do not use romaine lettuce or iceberg salad! These have poor nutritional properties so add a sprinkle of calcium, mixed with pallets available in pet stores. Feed once a day in a small bowl (remember to wash it). Lizard babies need more protein, so give them a small amount of crickets every week. If you have a wild-caught lizard that refuses to eat, you will need to seek the help of a veterinarian to force it to eat (it's not as brutal as it seems).
Care for Uromastyx Lizards Step 4 -
Keep the cage clean. If the turtle does his own thing, remove the feces with a scoop and clean the surrounding area with a mesh scoop or a sheet of paper. Change the sand every two to three weeks. The lizard should not urinate unless it is frightened. This would affect its natural water reserves and could lead to dehydration.
Care for Uromastyx Lizards Step 5 -
Handle the lizard carefully, wearing white gloves. Uromastyx lizards have pointed tails and sharp claws, and if they get scared, they may scratch you. Make sure their paws touch an even surface, otherwise they may panic. When you take them out of the cage, try to hold them in the palm of your hand. If you grab them from the back they might get scared and urinate. They rarely bite and have no teeth, so you shouldn't worry.
Care for Uromastyx Lizards Step 6 -
(NOTE # 2 … They have teeth and their bites hurt. Uromastyx aegyptia, although it is basically calm and does not shake easily, could become very dangerous if you tease her and her bites may be deep enough to require stitches..
Care for Uromastyx Lizards Step 7 
Care for Uromastyx Lizards Step 8 -
It is not my intention to belittle the author of the article, but only to try to inform you and spare you a trip to the emergency room.
Care for Uromastyx Lizards Step 9 - However, the article contains a lot of useful information.
Advice
- The white crystals around the lizard's nose need not be a cause for concern, as they simply indicate that the lizard is purging toxic substances. They can be removed by dabbing the area gently.
- Always place a hand on your lizard to make her feel safe.
- Although uromastics do not shed their tails, you shouldn't grab them by this one.
- If the lizard bites you (this happens very rarely), rinse the wound and stop the blood from flowing, but if that worries you, you may want to see your doctor for a tetanus vaccination.
- When your lizard defecates, you may notice a clod of white material. Don't worry, as this is undigested material that the lizard has excreted from its body.
Warnings
- You need to get a UVA and UVB lamp. Do not place the lamp more than 76 cm from the lizard, because the UV rays are not very powerful. Read the instructions carefully.
- The lamps should not be placed in direct contact with the lizard. Burns are painful, untreatable, and sometimes fatal.
- Do not use hot stones as heating. They are badly done and could cause burns.
- Some may disagree on keeping a stone warm … they say it could burn the lizard's belly, as in the case of frogs. Others argue that frogs and lizards are completely different and when the latter feel the heat, they move quietly. Hot stone burns might be bale, but lizards only have heat sensors on their backs.
- The sand, although it is beautiful to look at, could be the cause of intestinal obstruction in lizards of less than 18 cm in length, due to the ingestion of particles that cannot be assimilated by the intestine.
