A tailored saddle is the foundation for a pleasant ride, and keeps your horse safe and comfortable. Unfortunately, finding the perfect saddle isn't child's play. Use this guide to find the perfect saddle for you and your horse.
Steps
Method 1 of 4: Learn the Terminology for the Saddle
Step 1. Learn what galbe is
When looking at new saddles, one of the things you will need to watch out for are the bars. They are the foundations that distribute the weight of the saddle; the part of the saddle that rests on the horse and supports you. There are two bars that support the weight equally on each side of the back. If your saddle is well measured, the horse's back will be in contact with the full length of the legs.
Step 2. Locate the headstock
On a saddle, the scoop is the back that acts as a small backrest, pulling itself up slightly just like in a chair. The bars attach to the base of the headstock, holding the entire saddle together. The term headstock refers to both the English saddle and the western saddle.
Step 3. Find the saddle tree
On a western saddle, the saddle (or fork) is the section at the front that holds the shape. It is located just below the horn, and has the appearance of an inverted U. There are two types of tree, mainly: smooth and swollen. The smooth one is the most popular, it can be recognized by the sides that join directly towards the horn. The swollen one can be recognized by the thicker and curved edges that rise towards the horn.
Step 4. Find the knob
On an English saddle, the pommel is the front section of the saddle that holds the legs together. English saddles don't have a horn like western saddles, they just have a rounded section on the front, the pommel. Think of it as a smaller, rounder version of the headstock.
Step 5. Find the arch of the tree
Another important part of measuring your saddle is making sure the arch of the tree fits properly. The arch of the saddle tree refers to the empty space between the legs of the saddle. When you place the saddle on the horse's back, you can examine the measurement by looking at the saddle in front and behind.
Step 6. Understand the term "soul" of the saddle
The soul of the saddle is the set of bars, shovel, fork / pommel, and the arch of the tree. These are the things that need to be looked into when measuring a saddle. So, when checking the fit for your horse, look at the saddle core parts.
Step 7. Examine the curvature of the saddle
Curvature refers to the angular curve of the bars from front to back. Imagine it similar to the shape / angle of the bases of a rocking chair. Depending on the shape of your horse's back, you will need to try saddles with different angles of curvature.
Step 8. Observe the twisting of the saddle
A second important angle measurement of the saddle is the twist. This refers to the angle that bends the bars outwards; typically they are closer to center and further out front and back, like this:) (. Some saddles have wider twists than others, which may affect fit for horse and rider.
Step 9. Examine the saddle flare
Flaring is how much the galbs flare outward on the front, i.e. how much they curve upward on the front and back of the saddle, towards the headstock and pommel / fork.
Step 10. Check the saddle seat
This term is the easiest to recognize: the saddle seat is the part you sit on. The seat has two fundamental elements to note: length and inclination. The length of the seat is the space from front to back; a bespoke saddle will allow you to sit straight without being squeezed against the headstock, and will leave approximately 10cm of space between you and the knob / fork. The slope is the angle from the front of the seat to the back, and there are three types: high, medium and low. Each slant is found in seats for different types of ride.
Method 2 of 4: Measure the Saddle for the Horse
Step 1. Examine your horse's withers
The horse's withers are the highest point on the shoulder blades along the back. There are three types of withers, typically, which determine the length and angle of curvature for the saddle.
- A defined withers is recognizable by a defined top, followed by a soft slope towards the croup. Most "normal" or "medium" saddles will be suitable for this type of horse.
- A rounded withers is when, as the name implies, the withers are slightly curved and the horse's back is a little flatter. The withers also tend to be flat, so you will need a saddle with a wider core.
Step 2. Look at the horse's back
The back of the horse is the shape / curve from the withers to the rump. The back has four types of shape, basically: flat, straight, arched and downward. Each different type of shape requires a different saddle, or the use of special cushions.
- A flat back can be recognized when the horse has withers and rump of about the same height, and has a certain curvature between them, but not excessive. Most normal saddles will work for this type of back.
- A straight back is more common in mules, but can also be found in horses. The backs are straight when both the withers and the croup are quite low, and there is almost no curvature between the two. This type requires a special "straight" saddle, with bars that do not have a pronounced angle.
- Horses with arched backs have an incredibly narrow and prominent withers, and an equally pronounced rump. This usually happens to horses in poor condition or very old, and implies that the saddle does not rest on the back, but is suspended between the withers and the rump. The problem can be solved with special pillows.
- A back down occurs when the horse's rump is slightly higher than the withers, causing the saddle to lean forward slightly. You can have a saddle with more padding on the front modified to balance that out, or you can use special cushions under the pommel / fork to force the saddle to stay straight.
Step 3. Observe the length of your horse's back
A "regular" saddle is built to fit a horse with an average long back. In most cases, a longer-backed horse won't need special saddles, but if your horse has a small back, the saddle quarters (the leather flags on each side) may be pressing against him, causing pain and irritability. If your horse is very small, you may need to get a special "small" saddle for its back.
Step 4. Consider the age of the horse
If you are buying a saddle for a very young or untrained horse, keep in mind that you will most likely need to change it within a year or two to accommodate the growth of its body. On the other hand, if your horse is old or overweight, you may need to change saddle after a year or two to compensate for a substantial weight loss.
Method 3 of 4: Measure the Saddle for the Jockey
Step 1. Determine the type of saddle you want
Western and English saddles come in slightly different sizes, so it's important that you know what kind of saddle you are looking for before taking your measurements. Also, you will want to examine the style and quality of the saddle differently, depending on the work you plan to do with it.
Step 2. Consider your build
Most saddles are built for the "average" jockey, just as they are built for the "average" horse. If you are very tall, petite, overweight, or there are any number of things that affect your build, you may need to get a special saddle. Just remember that when you sit on a saddle, the following should happen:
- There should be a 10cm gap between you and the tree / pommel.
- You should never sit in a way that directly touches the headstock or tree / pommel.
- The stirrups should fit comfortably without forcing your knees to flex too much.
Step 3. Measure your horse
Sit in a regular chair with your back against the back and feet flat on the ground. Use a measuring tape and measure the distance from the knee to the hip. This can be used as a conversion system to determine the size of your saddle. Remember: saddle measurements are expressed in inches.
Step 4. Determine your size in an English saddle
Use your measurements to determine the size of the seat (and therefore of the saddle) of an English saddle. The equation between measure and dimension is usually:
- A leg / crotch measurement of 16.5 inches or less corresponds to a saddle of 15 inches.
- A leg / crotch size of 16.5-18.5 inches equals a 16-inch saddle.
- A leg / crotch measurement of 18.5-20 inches corresponds to a saddle of 16.5 inches.
- A leg / crotch measurement of 20-21.5 inches equals a 17-inch saddle.
- A leg / crotch measurement of 21.5-23 inches equals a saddle of 17.5 inches.
- A leg / crotch measurement of over 23 inches corresponds to an 18 or 19 inch saddle.
Step 5. Determine your size in a western saddle
The size for western saddles is slightly different than for English ones. The simplest conversion is to take two inches off your English saddle size, and what's left is your western saddle size. Use the following list to determine your western saddle size based on leg and crotch measurements:
- A leg / crotch measurement of 16.5 inches or less corresponds to a 13-inch saddle.
- A leg / crotch measurement of 16.5-18.5 inches equals a 14-inch saddle.
- A leg / crotch measurement of 18.5-20 inches equals a saddle of 15 inches.
- A leg / crotch measurement of 20-21.5 inches equals a saddle of 15.5 inches.
- A leg / crotch measurement of 21.5-23 inches equals a saddle of 16 inches.
- A leg / crotch measurement of over 23 inches corresponds to a saddle of 17 or 18 inches.
Step 6. Measure the seat of an English saddle
When you have found your size, you can compare that to a saddle seat to determine if it is close to your size. To measure the seat of an English saddle, measure from one of the "nails" to the right or left of the pommel, straight towards the center of the headstock. This will give you the saddle size (for example, 16 inches).
Step 7. Measure the seat of a western saddle
Similar to the size of your horse, the seat size of a western saddle is different from that of an English saddle. Using a tape measure or ruler, measure straight from the base of the pommel to the seam in the seat. Start at the base of the pommel and take a straight horizontal line towards the back.
Be careful not to touch the saddle pommel when measuring the seat, as the angle it describes may give you too large a measurement. Simply start from the base along the seams
Step 8. Try out many different saddles
While your horse size and saddle seat size can be a good indicator of the right size, the only way to be sure is to try and sit on it. Try out many different saddles in different styles to find the best level of comfort according to your preferences. Make sure you adjust the temples to the right length each time you try on a saddle.
- It is better to end up with a saddle that is a little larger than one that is too small. It will be less painful for the horse, and easier for you to ride.
- Bring an experienced friend or two to make sure you sit properly in the saddle.
Method 4 of 4: Check the Saddle Size for the Horse
Step 1. Check the width of the bars
Remember when you checked the withers and the back of the horse? This is where it comes in handy. Place the saddle on your horse without a cushion / blanket. If it is right, the legs should entirely touch the horse.
- If the legs only touch the base of the horse's back but not the top, the saddle is too narrow.
- If the legs only touch the top of the horse's back and not the base, the saddle is too wide.
Step 2. Check the recess of the bars
The indentation of the bars is the angle of curvature against the angle of the horse's back. A saddle of the right size will have studs that mimic the curvature of the back. Thus, the legs will touch the horse's back entirely.
- If the legs only touch the withers and rump, a "bridge" will be created and will cause pain to the horse. This happens if the legs are too long or if there is not a pronounced curvature to fit the horse's back.
- If the bars only touch the center of the back, the saddle will rock. It happens if the legs are too short or if the curvature is too pronounced in relation to the horse's back.
Step 3. Check the flaring of the bars
The angle at which the bars turn up and out front and back is the saddle flare. If there is little or no flare, then the saddle may be too small for your horse. Make sure your saddle has a noticeable flare to prevent it from pressing against your horse's back as you ride, causing pain or irritation.
Step 4. Check the arch of the tree
Place the saddle on your horse without a blanket or cushion. Look at the arch of the tree from the horse's back, you should be able to see through to the front. If you can't, the saddle is too small. Then, go to the arch side of the tree and stick as many fingers as you can vertically into the empty space. A custom-made saddle should have a space of 2 to 2 and a half fingers in the arch of the tree; a larger space means that the saddle is too large, a smaller one means that it is too small.
Advice
- Some saddles are measured in "quarter horse" size: it is a different way of measuring "small", "medium" and "large". If in doubt, measure the seat or ask for help converting the size.
- With a western saddle, the exposed measurements of the seat are from the core skeleton, before leather or padding was added.
