How to Help a Pregnant Guinea Pig

2024 Author: Samantha Chapman | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 09:13

Pregnancy is a very difficult phase for a female guinea pig. She may have several puppies in her womb, from one to six, and the pregnancy lasts 58-73 days. Among these animals, the death rate related to pregnancy and childbirth is very high (about 20%), as they are susceptible to complications and diseases such as preeclampsia. Although guinea pigs should never be intentionally mated, it is not uncommon to bring home a new specimen from the pet shop and realize that it is already pregnant. With the right care, however, you can significantly reduce the risk of mortality and ensure the health of the new mother.

Steps

Part 1 of 8: Discovering Pregnancy

Step 1. Look for symptoms of gestation

Physical signs are difficult to notice and often become evident towards the end of pregnancy. Nonetheless, you may realize that your little friend is starting to eat and drink more and her abdomen is growing; read this article for more details. Do not apply any pressure on the animal's belly as it could cause a miscarriage.

• Remember that it is common for young birds to eat more as they grow.
• If the litter is small in number, know that the pig's belly will not swell much and you may not even notice it.
• All the little pigs love to hide under the hay, but they don't have the instinct to create a nest on the occasion of pregnancy.

Step 2. Ask your vet to diagnose your pet's "interesting state"

If you suspect you have a pregnant piglet, take her to the vet to be sure. The doctor will carry out a palpation of the abdomen in search of the presence of fetuses or will subject your little friend to an ultrasound. Your vet may also be able to set an approximate date for delivery.

• Abdominal palpation should be done by a professional, as it is easy to mistake a bladder, kidneys, or even an enlarged ovary for a fetus. In addition, clumsy maneuvers could cause a miscarriage.
• Ultrasound is a non-invasive diagnostic imaging method that can confirm the interesting state of the guinea pig. It will also provide useful information on the number of fetuses and tell you how many are alive.

Step 3. If the pregnancy is absolutely unexpected, try to understand where the mating may have occurred

You may have purchased a pregnant guinea pig from the pet store or one of the guinea pigs you already own is actually a boy.

• Pet shops are notoriously scrupulous in keeping the opposite sex separate or even in determining whether a piglet is male or female. For this reason, they may have sold you a male piglet as a female that then mated with its mates already present in the cage. Take all your pets to an experienced vet to check their sex.
• Pet shops also contain guinea pigs of different sexes in the same cages, while some breeders do not separate the specimens promptly enough, so there is a high risk of buying an already pregnant pet.

Step 4. Evaluate whether the age of the guinea pig makes gestation a high risk

The little rodent should be at least four months old, but less than seven for her first maternity. If she had already had other pregnancies, however, the little pig should not be more than two years old.

• If your dog does not meet these age requirements, talk to your vet to develop a plan to manage the pregnancy. If the new mother is very young, it will also be necessary to plan a specific diet and dedicated supplements. If she is quite elderly, it may be advisable to be admitted to the veterinary clinic for the whole of gestation and childbirth, given that it is very likely that medical intervention will be required.

  • Very young pregnant pigs run a high risk of vitamin deficiency throughout their pregnancy.
  • Older pigs, on the other hand, are at high risk of symphysis diastasis and dystocia, both of which are complications that require a cesarean delivery.

  

  Step 5. Determine if the guinea pig's physical condition increases the risk of a difficult pregnancy

  Overweight specimens have a higher rate of preeclampsia. If you are sure your little pig was already plump before she got pregnant, talk to your vet about developing a safe meal plan during pregnancy, as this is certainly not the time to cut her calories.

  

  Step 6. Consider the possibilities of male or female race-related genetic diseases

  Dalmatians and those of the Himalayan breed carry a recessive gene which, however, can manifest itself with fatal outcomes. If a parent belongs to one of these breeds, there is a 25% chance of being born dead for each puppy. There are many other hereditary diseases that afflict guinea pigs, for this reason, whenever possible, it is advisable to check the family tree of the female and the male.

  • If there is a high chance that the puppies are all born with disease, then you will need to decide how to proceed. If you are not ready to take care of them on your own, a more experienced breeder could take over the burden or you will have to decide to put them down.

    The puppies in which the lethal gene occurs are white (not albinos), are born blind often in both eyes, have deformed or crooked teeth, are often deaf and suffer from internal deformities especially in the digestive organs. If they survive the first week after giving birth, then they will have a shorter life expectancy and will require a lot of care throughout their existence

  Part 2 of 8: Health During Pregnancy

  

  Step 1. Pregnant piglets are particularly vulnerable to disease as a direct consequence of the stress of gestation

  This puts them at risk of preeclampsia or they may be scared enough to stop drinking and eating. For these reasons, stress must be minimized as much as possible.

  • It prevents the expectant mother from being exposed to loud noises and bright lights.
  • Shelter it from direct sunlight.
  • Set a daily routine with set times and try to respect them, so as to guarantee a certain stability.
  • Make changes as early as possible during pregnancy, when stress is less likely to affect the pig's health.

  • Minimize the occasions when you touch her.

    For the past two weeks, don't touch the pig. Instead, try to get her to step into a box or over a cloth to move it

  

  Step 2. Check her eating habits and how much she drinks

  It is essential that the guinea pig is checked several times a day, at least every 3-4 hours. Each time, make a mental note of how much water he drank and how much food he consumed.

  • In this way you realize the normal rhythms of your specimen and, in the case of some abnormal behavior (for example if he feels bad and stops eating or starts drinking a lot), you will be able to notice it promptly.
  • If you notice that he becomes inappetent, contact your vet right away. The doctor will be able to determine the health of the pig and may prescribe treatments, including injections of dextrose solution, steroids and calcium, but be aware that these treatments have a variable success rate. Loss of appetite is also a symptom of preeclampsia.

  

  Step 3. Once every two weeks, check your pet more carefully

  Check for signs of illness (for example, deposits around the eyes, nose, ears or areas of alopecia or thinning hair) and weigh it. In the last two or three weeks of gestation do not handle the guinea pig, instead try to convince it to move into a box or on a cloth.

  • The small rodent should gradually gain weight. The increase depends on the number of puppies, but in any case you should never notice a loss.
  • If you have any doubts, don't hesitate to call your vet.

  

  Step 4. Avoid brushing during pregnancy

  Grooming involves a lot of physical contact with the piglet, so keep these steps to a minimum. If it belongs to a long-haired breed, consider cutting its fur towards the end of gestation, because the pet will have some problems taking care of it and the fur could get dirty and knotted.

  Don't bathe her, it would be too stressful for the guinea pig

  

  Step 5. Continue to ensure physical exercise

  Let her walk free on the floor or allow her to roam the garden. Avoid touching it, instead try to move it by convincing it to fit in a box or on a cloth. This is very important to keep her active, prevent her from becoming obese and to ensure good circulation. In any case, however, do not force her or run after her to force her to move, especially if the puppies are many or large, since they create circulation problems for the mother and these animals are easily prone to heart attacks.

  Part 3 of 8: Environment

  

  Step 1. Make sure the cage is suitable for the expectant mother

  Read this tutorial to understand which type of environment is best suited to its conditions. Make sure the temperature is constant and don't use a multi-story cage.

  • The night temperature outside or inside a garage / shed is usually too low for a pregnant guinea pig. For this reason you should take it indoors.
  • Do not place her in a cage or multi-story enclosure, as her balance is compromised during gestation and may not be able to reach higher floors in the later stages.

  

  Step 2. Remove the male specimens

  If you have multiple females, remove the male from the cage to prevent mating with them. If you have only one female, then remove the male from her cage before she reaches day 50 of her pregnancy.

  The male must be removed from the fiftieth day because he could continue to mate with the female, a stressful and painful behavior for the latter, especially in the last phase of pregnancy. She could also get pregnant again two hours after giving birth

  

  Step 3. If you feel the need to do this, move the other females too

  Pregnant guinea pigs should be kept with same sex if they have a good relationship. In fact, guinea pigs are social animals and should be left in groups even when they are pregnant.

  • If there are any signs that indicate a bad relationship between the future mother and another specimen, do not hesitate to remove the latter, but leave the future mother with her friends in the cage where she is.
  • Separate the various pregnant specimens. The placenta contains hormones that induce contractions. If another guinea pig ate it, it could have a premature birth.

  

  Step 4. Clean the cage regularly

  Clean dirty or wet areas every day, the entire cage should be cleaned twice a week. Use only antibacterial spray cleaners formulated specifically for guinea pig cages.

  A clean enclosure prevents the accumulation of ammonia present in the urine. Ammonia irritates the lungs of guinea pigs and predisposes pregnant ones to lung infections

  

  Step 5. Organize a comfortable space

  Sprinkle the base of the fence with at least 8-10cm of substrate. This can be composed of grass hay or soft wool. Alfalfa hay or straw is not safe as a substrate, because it is not soft enough.

  You must also provide the pet with a container, such as a small shoe box placed on one side. Place it in the part of the cage or enclosure where the animal takes refuge, away from drafts. Having a place to hide reduces the stress the guinea pig feels

  Part 4 of 8: Feeding During Pregnancy

  

  Step 1. Give them some feed in the form of pressed pellets

  Each piece of croquette, in this kind of food, is identical to the others. Choosing pellets instead of muesli (where peas, corn, wheat and so on are identifiable) means that the guinea pig cannot follow a selective diet. Do not give her too many pellets, to prevent her from gaining weight; Read the instructions on the product packaging for serving sizes, but know that you shouldn't exceed two teaspoons or one dessert spoon per day.

  • By "selective diet" we mean the behavior of guinea pigs who choose only the tastiest and, often, the most caloric ingredients from the bulk feed. This leads to a mineral deficiency.
  • If you are changing your diet, make gradual changes, giving the piglet a small piece of both foods, otherwise she may refuse to eat at all.

  

  Step 2. Make sure he has constant access to clean water

  All guinea pigs should always have clean water available, but this aspect is even more important for pregnant specimens. Empty the drinking bottle every day, fill it with fresh water and make sure it is clean.

  • If the drinking bottle is mounted at a high point in the cage, then place another one lower, so that the expectant mother does not have to stretch.
  • Clean the bottle of water every week to avoid the accumulation of algae and bacteria. Wash it with mild soap every few days.

  

  Step 3. Provide the guinea pig with high quality hay

  Choose grass (fleus or moss grass) that has a vegetable aftertaste. Supplement this diet with a daily dose of alfalfa which is high in protein and calcium. Check that the little pig always has a nice pile of it available and that it can also hide inside.

  Alfalfa is excellent for pregnant guinea pigs, for lactating ones and for young specimens, but the calcium content is excessive for normal adults to whom it can cause bladder stones

  

  Step 4. Give her fresh vegetables every day

  All piglets should have at least 50g of fresh vegetables every day, but pregnant ones should eat more, up to 75-100g per day. To find out which vegetables are best suited, follow the instructions in this tutorial.

  Never offer her the same vegetable for two consecutive days. In this way you avoid the accumulation of a mineral present in a particular vegetable. For example, carrots are rich in oxalate. If your little furry friend takes it in large quantities, it can accumulate in the urine and cause stones to form

  

  Step 5. Make sure you are getting enough vitamins and minerals

  Guinea pigs are quite prone to vitamin C and calcium deficiency. Make sure your pregnant specimen has enough with veterinarian-recommended supplements.

  • Never give her a multi-vitamin. Excess vitamin C is excreted in the urine, so poisoning is not possible, but other vitamins can cause problems.
  • Don't rely on foods that contain vitamin C as an ingredient. This nutrient is very unstable and degrades within eight weeks from the date of production of the food. If the food has been stored for some time in the store's warehouse, then there are many chances that the vitamin C content is practically zero when you open the package.

  • Never use water-soluble tablets. They quickly become ineffective and alter the taste of water which would become unappetizing for the guinea pig, which would run the risk of dehydration in turn, a fatal condition in pregnancy.

    

    Step 6. Increase your fruit intake in the last four weeks of pregnancy

    Give small cubes of fruit such as apples, strawberries or seedless grapes every three days.

    Fruit should be offered in moderation to guinea pigs because the acids contained in it could cause ulcers. On the other hand, preeclampsia can be triggered by a sugar deficiency, so it is important to keep blood sugar high

    Part 5 of 8: Preparing for Childbirth

    

    Step 1. Make sure you have everything you need for the birth

    Rely on a veterinarian who is experienced in guinea pigs, not one who only treats cats and dogs.

    • Have your vet's emergency number handy.

      Write the number on a post-it to stick near the pig's cage / pen. You don't want to find yourself chasing the number in time of need

    • Prepare the phone number of the office for out-of-hours emergencies.

      If there is no emergency veterinary clinic in your area, plan ahead with the veterinarian you usually rely on. He may make himself available or he will give you the number of an experienced breeder

    • Also make infant formula or special food, as chances are that at least one of the puppies will need it.
    • Have a clean cloth handy.

    

    Step 2. Know that it is very difficult to know when a guinea pig will give birth

    Even if your vet has calculated an estimated date, it may be several days after this deadline or your furry friend may surprise you with an early delivery. You may notice a dilation of her pelvic bones, indicating delivery in the coming week.

    

    Step 3. From the sixtieth day of pregnancy, check the female several times a day

    It is much safer if someone can supervise the birth. Ideally, you should check the expectant mother every 2-3 hours. Although deliveries usually take place during the day, a night birth is always possible, so don't forget to monitor the pig even in the dark hours.

    If you can't check it for work or other commitments, ask a friend or neighbor to do it for you. An experienced breeder could also be of help

    

    Step 4. Preeclampsia and calcium deficiency are the most common complications in the 7-10 days before delivery

    Both are lethal without the right treatment, so always check carefully for the following symptoms: loss of appetite, abnormalities in the amount of water taken, lethargy or weakness, and other more obvious signs of discomfort, such as muscle spasms or drooling in the mouth.

    Part 6 of 8: During Childbirth

    

    Step 1. Listen carefully

    When you check the pig, listen for any moans. These animals emit a distinctive grunt when in labor. Even if you have never heard it before, you will be able to recognize it.

    

    Step 2. You must be present at the birth

    It should last less than an hour and the puppies should come out five minutes apart. The female will sit with her head between her legs and emit "sobs" with each contraction.

    • Don't touch the mother.
    • Do not oppress her, there must be only one person in the room and another nearby to call for help, in case of need.
    • Do not intervene and do not touch newborns, unless absolutely necessary.
    • There is no need to move the other females, because they could even help out.

    

    Step 3. During delivery, look for signs of complications and be prepared to call the vet

    At any sign of trouble or distress, don't hesitate to call your vet immediately. Here's what you need to pay attention to:

    • Mom pushes for more than 15 minutes without any puppy coming out;
    • The birth lasts more than an hour;
    • The mother emits calls of "extreme" suffering;
    • She seems to give up and looks exhausted;
    • Foam or foaming in the mouth
    • You notice excessive bleeding (more than 15ml).
    • The vet may try maneuvers to reposition the puppies so that delivery is natural, but sometimes a cesarean is needed.

    

    Step 4. Take action to help the puppies, only if absolutely necessary

    Sometimes, when the litters are very large or when the puppies are born too quickly, the mother does not have time to break the amniotic sac. In this case, and only if you are certain that the mother cannot do it, intervene by grabbing the puppy with a clean cloth to remove the bag and cleaning all the fluids that are left on the face of the newborn. Do not use your fingers or fingernails, as you may accidentally scratch the puppy's eyes.

    While it is quite common for a puppy to be breeched or stuck in the birth canal, never intervene. Only an experienced vet should attempt to manipulate a puppy before birth

    

    Step 5. Check that each puppy is breathing

    If someone doesn't, try lifting them carefully and holding them at arm's length. Rotate on yourself once. This forced movement should unblock any obstructions from the baby's throat and allow him to breathe. If that doesn't work, gently scrub his back to get the same result.

    

    Step 6. Verify that the mother cleans up all birth waste

    The new mother usually eats the placenta and cleans each puppy. It should also eat the substrate and what has become soiled with blood.

    Once you are certain that the birth is complete, you can assist the mother in cleaning and removing the dirty substrate

    

    Step 7. Check that the new mother is interested in puppies, as those who give birth for the first time, especially if very young, can abandon the babies as they are quite confused

    If the mother abandons them, tries to bring her back to them and put the whole family in a small box, maternal instinct should take over.

    Part 7 of 8: Post-Christmas Care

    

    Step 1. Expect newborns that are active, alert and already perfectly able to move, as if they were miniature adult specimens

    The eyes should be open, they should have fur, and they should be able to hear, walk, and eat immediately.

    • If one of the puppies is alive but not alert, not seeing or walking, call the vet immediately.
    • Puppies need neither a warmer nor a heat lamp. They can stay at normal room temperature like adults.

    

    Step 2. For a couple of hours, leave the mother alone with the babies

    It is best to allow them to rest without being disturbed if you don't notice any signs of complications.

    If you are concerned that the mother or one of the puppies has serious health problems, contact your vet right away

    

    Step 3. Weigh the babies and the mother on the same day of delivery

    Both the new mother and the puppies can weaken quickly and the only way to understand this is to weigh them. You should be able to pick up the puppies right after giving birth if the mom doesn't protest.

    At birth, young ones should weigh around 75-105g

    

    Step 4. The next day, repeat the weighing for the whole family

    It is likely that the puppies have lost some weight, but if one is particularly lighter than the other, feed him manually with a spoon and give him 15 minutes of individual breastfeeding with his mother three times a day.

    Wait 24 hours after giving birth to give one of the puppies extra food, because it takes some time for everyone to start breastfeeding

    

    Step 5. Continue weighing mum and kittens every day

    This method allows you to understand the health of the mother and if you need to supplement the nutrition of one of the newborns. Preeclampsia and calcium deficiency are still a risk in the first week after giving birth, so check the piglet for signs of illness or constant weight loss. You should continue weighing the animals every day for three weeks.

    • In the first three days of life, newborns lose some weight, but after this time they should begin to gain weight. If the weight does not increase or one of the puppies does not improve despite the extra food, call the vet.
    • The weight of the new mother changes for a few days as she readjusts to the new conditions, but should stabilize within five days. If you lose weight every day or keep changing after five days, consult your vet.

    

    Step 6. Ask the doctor to check the mother and the whole litter

    If they show no signs of being unwell and appear to be fine, then a visit to the vet is not urgent, but you should still have them checked up in the first week of life, in case there is any problem you haven't noticed.

    

    Step 7. Continue to ensure an enriched diet

    Provide the family with regular hay and alfalfa, as well as vitamin supplements for mom. Increase the intake of fresh vegetables and gradually continue to increase it over the following weeks, as puppies need more food as they grow. Give the fruit to the mother, but not to the babies, as it is too acidic for them.

    The puppies are able to eat solid food from the first day of life and the mother herself will take care of their weaning

    

    Step 8. At three weeks old, males are sexually mature and should be separated from their sisters and mothers at this age

    Ask your vet to help you tell them apart to avoid "accidents". The puppies must be left with their mother, while the males must be placed in another enclosure.

    • Introduce male puppies to their sire and other same-sex puppies.

      Make it a gradual insertion, as adults are much larger and could injure puppies. Although siblings can share the same cage for life, they will never get along well with other specimens of the same sex and will not be able to live in the same enclosure for long

    

    Step 9. Puppies are weaned at 21 days of age

    Some may be weaned a few days earlier, others later, but the average is 21 days. At this stage they weigh 165-240 g.

    • Once the puppies are weaned, the mom no longer needs vitamin supplements, unless they are part of her normal diet.
    • If you are unsure if puppies are weaned at 21 days of age, males should still be removed to avoid getting pregnant. They will have eaten solid food a few days after birth and will be able to cope with the lack of breast milk.

    

    Step 10. Introduce the bitches you moved into the pen with the mum and puppies when they are three or four weeks old

    Follow a step by step procedure and always check the situation. It will take several days before they live together in harmony.

    Just because they are the puppies of a familiar pig, the other females do not necessarily accept them immediately

    Part 8 of 8: Preventing Pregnancy

    

    Step 1. Understand how guinea pigs reproduce

    Males become sexually active at three weeks of age, and females at four weeks.

    • It is entirely possible for a male puppy to impregnate his little sisters or mother.
    • In pet stores, both sexes are kept in the same cage, which means that many people buy specimens already in pregnancy.

    

    Step 2. Sort your pets by gender

    This is the simplest way to prevent pregnancy.

    • You should make this separation when the animals are three weeks old.
    • Remember that guinea pigs are social animals and should be kept in groups, so if you have a male and a female, make sure to provide them with same-sex companions.

    

    Step 3. Have the males neutered

    This is also an effective method of avoiding pregnancy. It is possible to sterilize females, but the operation is more complex and risky. Find a vet who specializes in guinea pigs or exotic animals and rely on him for this type of surgical procedure.

    • Castrated males must be kept separate from females for about 4 weeks after the operation. This is because some sperm can survive for a long time in the sperm ducts of animals. Thus, although the castrated male is unable to produce new sperm, he can still theoretically become a father for a short time after castration.
    • Guinea pigs, in general, do not respond very well to the anesthetic, for this reason the separation into homogeneous groups by sex is always the best option (if applicable).

    

    Step 4. Do not intentionally let your guinea pigs mate

    For one in five female dogs, pregnancy also means death and there is a high risk of stillborn puppies. If you want another specimen, go to an animal recovery center to find a small rodent that needs to be adopted by a loving family.

    Warnings

    • Be very gentle and careful if you need to handle your pregnant pet. Do this only when absolutely necessary; if you touch the pig excessively, you could cause pregnancy complications and even cause a miscarriage.
    • The mother could accidentally injure the cubs by crushing them, and the young tend to escape from the cage, for these reasons check them regularly.
    • Females can become pregnant soon after giving birth, so make sure there are no males around. Continued pregnancies are almost always fatal.
    • Guinea pig could die during or after pregnancy due to complications related to gestation or childbirth or postpartum preeclampsia. This is a rather frequent occurrence, about one in five dies as a direct consequence of pregnancy or childbirth.