For sewing beginners, zipping up a zipper can seem like a rather difficult task. However, it is really worth learning, even if you need to have patience and practice. Knowing how to sew a zipper is a very useful skill if you want to make beautiful clothes or make other sewing projects that include zippers.
Steps
Part 1 of 2: Sew the Zipper
Step 1. Machine baste to secure the opening where you are going to insert the zipper
Sew along the edges where you are going to apply the zipper. Remember to sew so that you leave a seam allowance equal to that present in the other seams of the garment.
It may seem contradictory, but don't forget that basting is only temporary. You just need to keep the fabric in place - you can remove it once you have zipped it up
Step 2. Hold down the basting, ironing the seam allowance from the wrong side of the fabric
Make sure to spread out and open the seam allowance as much as you can, as the creases on the sides of the basting will need to be quite prominent.
Step 3. Use pins to hold the zipper in place
Close the zipper. Position the top of the zipper so that the tab is just above the top hem of the garment.
It is not a problem if the zipper goes beyond the end of the seam. It is best if it has a bit of ease in the end area, maybe a couple of centimeters, but if it is longer you will have to remove the remaining part. Just cut off the excess before pinning and make a few overedge stitches at the end to stop it
Step 4. Machine baste the zipper
Again, the basting will be removed later; you just need to keep the zipper in place. It is necessary because it will keep the zipper teeth centered with respect to the seam, when you can't see the zipper while working on the wrong side.
Step 5. Turn the garment straight over
See if the zipper tab protrudes from the top of the garment. The rest of the zipper should be hidden.
Step 6. Attach a zipper foot to the machine to topstitch and join all layers, both garment and zipper
Sew both sides of the zipper from bottom to top, avoiding crimping. The stitches should be applied in the central area to be sewn, but essentially the foot of the machine will guide you.
Finish the job by applying a series of stitches at the bottom of the seam and working perpendicular to the seam. In this way, you will give the zipper an arrival point, beyond which the flap will not be able to descend
Step 7. Remove the basting with a seam ripper
Start by unstitching the stitches in the basting that were holding the zipper in place. Once removed, remove the ones that run up to the center of the seam. By doing so, you will uncover the hinge teeth underneath.
When removing the basting, be careful not to tear the topstitched thread in the fabric or any of the permanent stitches. In this case, it would be helpful to use a seam ripper, although there is a risk that it will cut the thread you don't want, so be careful
Step 8. Test your zipper
It should open and close smoothly and be in the center of the opening.
Part 2 of 2: Preparing to Sew a Zipper
Step 1. Buy a zipper that is the right size and style for your sewing project
The hinges are commercially available in a wide range of colors, styles and sizes. Choose the one that best suits your needs.
If you can't find a zipper of the perfect length, purchase one that is slightly longer than the opening where you want to apply it. In this way, you will have some margin to position it and you will avoid bumping the needle against the end of the zipper, risking breaking it
Step 2. Wash the zipper to prevent it from shrinking
It is only necessary if it is made of natural fibers. Just follow the instructions on the package, as many zippers are made of man-made materials, but some are made from natural fabrics, such as cotton.
Step 3. Iron the fabric sides of the zipper
Make sure they are as stretched out as possible. Keep the temperature low to avoid melting the zipper if it has plastic teeth.
Zippers with metal teeth can resist if the iron is set to a higher temperature
Step 4. Cut a few strips of lightweight thermo-adhesive lining, a couple of centimeters wide and the same length as the opening you will be zipping up
It is only necessary if you need to apply it on a light, not very strong fabric. This type of lining is used to make the fabric stronger and more rigid, able to better handle the pressure caused by the recurring opening and closing of the zipper.
Step 5. Insert the cover into the area to be sewn
Just follow the directions on the iron-on liner packaging to complete this step. In most cases it will be sufficient to insert a few thin strips of lining on the wrong side of the fabric, right next to the seam. Then iron the fabric and lining to join them together.
Advice
- If you don't want to baste the zipper, you can also use double-sided invisible tape to temporarily hold the zipper in place before stitching it.
- Some prefer to use tube glue to temporarily secure the zipper.
- This method usually works best with invisible duct tape, because the glue goes off easily with water. However, do not use it on fine fabrics, as it could damage them permanently.
