Whether it's for yourself or someone else, choosing a men's dress shirt can be more complicated than you think. Here are some factors to keep in mind when selecting one.
Steps
Step 1. Choose a color
Will you buy an elegant shirt for a job interview or is your aim to dress in a more sophisticated and fashionable way?
- For an interview, traditional choices are represented by “traditional” colors. With blue you usually play it safe. White is very formal. Gray is also a good alternative.
- If your goal is to project a more original image of yourself, opt for bright or unconventional colors. Bright greens and oranges are relatively popular, as is pink.
Step 2. Choose a reason
Solid color is considered a wardrobe staple, as it is the easiest to match, but you may also consider thin stripes or a checkered pattern.
- Single-color shirts are versatile because, in theory, you can combine them with any type of tie, whether it's plain or patterned.
- Patterned shirts are a little more difficult to combine with ties.
Step 3. Choose your style
Are you looking for a more trendy, shaped shirt or would you prefer a standard, straight-cut shirt? Do you want a standard collar or a French one? Will you button your shirt completely or will you use one with side buttons to keep the collar in place? These points must all be taken into consideration.
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A dress shirt that is tailored or shaped is slightly tighter around the chest and hips. A standard fall dress shirt is a bit loose, but with a traditional straight cut look. Athletic fit shirts are wider in the chest area and tailored in the waist area.
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A standard straight collar is the most common type, where the pointed parts go down and a small gap is created at the section where the two parts of the collar meet.
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A spread collar is a bit more modern and is considered youthful and feminine by some. It is smaller and wider. As this type of collar gives a feeling of width, it is a good choice for men with a slim build, but perhaps less appropriate for larger physiques.
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Step 4. Find the right fabric
Linen shirts breathe well and are perfect in summer, while Oxford fabric is woven using the so-called nattè weave, and therefore has a rougher texture. Cotton gives a feeling of softness, resulting in a more casual look, which will make you feel more comfortable.
Step 5. Determine the size of the neck and the length of the sleeves
If you will be shopping at a retail store, most sellers can help you find your neck size and sleeve length using the centimeter. The chart below gives you guidelines for common neck sizes and approximate sleeve lengths, determined by the normal size of a shirt.
| Neck size | Neck size | Sleeve Length |
|---|---|---|
| Small | 14 - 14 ½ (36-37) | 63-63.5 cm |
| Medium | 15 - 15 ½ (38-39/40) | 64-64.5 cm |
| Large | 16 - 16 ½ (41-42) | 65.5-66 cm |
| X-Large | 17 - 17 ½ (43-44) | 66.5-67 cm |
| XX-Large | 18 - 18 ½ (45-46) | 67 cm |
Method 1 of 2: Check the Quality of the Shirt
Step 1. Determine if the buttonholes were sewn by hand
Uneven seams generally indicate high quality.
Step 2. Check the seam that runs along the side of the shirt
A high-quality garment has only one visible seam line on the side, while most shirts have two visible seam lines.
Step 3. Examine the sleeve of the shirt in the area approximately 5 cm upwards from the cuff to find the button that is used to close the sleeve
The presence of this button and the horizontal position of the buttonhole are other good indicators of a high quality handmade shirt.
Step 4. Check the yarn count
This information can sometimes be found on the shirt tag. The finest shirts are made with a double twisted yarn, not a single yarn, and the fabric is stronger and softer.
Method 2 of 2: Make sure the shirt fits well
Step 1. Bend your arm
The sleeves should be long enough so that the cuffs don't pull away from the wrists when you move your arm.
Step 2. Make sure the cuffs are snug
They shouldn't fall on the hand. You shouldn't be able to pull up your shirt sleeves without unbuttoning the cuffs first.
Step 3. Check the buttons
They should be neatly stitched and positioned in the right places, with no holes more open than they should expose the chest.
Step 4. Make sure the shirt does not pull uncomfortably in the chest or waist area
Step 5. Raise your arms
Check that the bottom of the shirt does not come out of the pants.
Step 6. Button the dress shirt down to the last button
You should be able to slide two or three fingers between the neck and the collar.
Advice
- For some shirts two numbers are used to determine the length of the sleeves; these two numbers express a range of sleeve lengths for which the shirt presumably should fit. For example, a shirt size 17 / 34-35 is designed for men who need 66.5-67 cm long sleeves. In general, exact sizes are preferable.
- Fitted shirts in general are intended for individuals with an athletic or otherwise lean build. If you have a prominent tummy, then opt for a traditional straight cut shirt.
- Contrast is the key. If you are wearing a single-colored dress shirt, opt for a tie with a pattern. If you're wearing a blue dress shirt, then consider a red or yellow tie (yellow is a more summery color). Make sure the tie has a touch of blue to match the dress shirt.
- If a piece is worth buying once, then it deserves a repeat, especially if it's a good dress shirt. Unexpected events can occur, so try to get the same spare shirt in case the first one gets ruined (or is just dirty).
- The other types of collars include the collar whose tips are held in place by two pins, the tab collar (with small fabric tabs that tighten together, keeping the collar tight around the tie) and the mandarin collar (a less formal narrow collar that does not fold down, normally worn without a tie). You may want to try these variations at the store to determine which one is right for you.
- Collars not fully buttoned (i.e. the last top button is not buttoned) are more casual than their unbuttoned counterparts. If you are not planning to put on a tie, the non-buttoned collars at all guarantee a better look.
- While it looks unconventional, light pink is a fairly common color for a dress shirt worn at work. It should not be confused with fuchsia or magenta, which are less common.
- The US size chart above refers to men's shirts; the female ones follow a different system. Some shirts have Italian labels, while others use other systems. If in doubt, it is often best to try on the shirt before buying it.
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Highlight the shirt with the right tie, suitable for the rest of the outfit. The color of the tie should be very complementary to that of the shirt, whether it is on the "background" of the tie, or whether it is a subtle pattern in the tie itself. Striped ties are classic and conservative, while plain ties are generally more formal.
Remember that the length of the sleeves is approximate. If you are tall and thin then it will probably be superior. Don't be afraid to ask someone to help you
- A patterned shirt goes perfectly well with a tie that has a pattern, provided you strike the right balance. One fantasy should be more dominant than the other. If the shirt has a chunky, bold pattern, the tie should feature a smaller, more intricate one.
