Oleanders are dangerous beauties. These plants are highly toxic when ingested, but if you handle them with care they can be attractive, sturdy, and full of life additions to your garden. Oleanders are usually grown from established transplants, and once in the ground they require minimal care.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Preparation
Step 1. Grow oleanders in a warm climate
The oleander plant can survive temperatures that occasionally drop below freezing, but thrive in climates that stay above this temperature all year round. If you have severe winters, you may not be able to grow an oleander bush outdoors.
- Oleanders will only tolerate temperatures that do not drop below 9.4 ° C. At that point, however, the foliage will be damaged.
- Even if the top of a plant becomes damaged, it can still grow back as long as the roots remain intact.
- If you live in a cooler climate, you will need to plant oleanders in a heated greenhouse or in containers that you can move around. Each container should be at least 2-3 times as wide and deep as the root mass of the bush you want to plant. Keep the container outside during the warmer season and take it inside during the winter.
Step 2. Choose spring or autumn
Plant a healthy oleander bush in spring or fall. Don't wait until summer (its primary growing season) or winter (the "hibernation" season).
- Normally, the ideal time to plant an oleander is August or September, just at the end of the flowering period. If you plant the bush later, flowering may be shorter.
- Oleanders planted in spring may not produce many flowers during the first year, but the foliage should remain healthy and new flowers should appear during the next growing season.
Step 3. Choose a sunny location
The vast majority of oleander varieties thrive in full sunlight but can also tolerate light shade. For best results, look for an area in your garden that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight on a regular basis.
- When grown partially in the shade, oleanders tend to take on a slender, open shape rather than a full, bushy one.
- Take note that in particularly hot and dry climates, a partially shaded location may be better than one in full sun.
- Also consider that oleander bushes are good to use as wind "walls" and can protect more delicate plants, but damage from strong winds can ruin the blooming flowers and closed buds for the season.
Step 4. Fine the soil with compost
Oleander can tolerate many soil conditions, but if you are working with exhausted soil that is particularly lacking in nutrients, you should mix a few handfuls of compost into the top 30cm of the soil to improve it.
- The best soil for oleanders will be a well-draining one. These plants are quite adaptable, though, and can usually survive quite well in dry, swampy soils.
- What's more, the content of the soil often doesn't make much difference. Balanced and nutrient-rich soils are always the best, but oleanders can still survive well in soils with higher pH, high salt content and similar problems.
- While not necessary, you could also add peat moss to sandy soils if you want to increase the soil's ability to absorb water.
Step 5. Choose a healthy oleander plant
Select an adult oleander bush for transplanting. It should have thick branches and dark green leaves. In general, the plant should look particularly dense.
- Avoid plants labeled "double white", "single red" etc. Instead, opt for specimens that have the specific name of the variety indicated.
- Inspect the plant before making your purchase. Make sure there are no aphids, mealy bugs, or other insects.
- Focus on plants that are not contained in pots that are too small for them. The root system should not be overdeveloped and stick out of the container.
Part 2 of 3: the Implant
Step 1. Dig a hole large enough
The hole should be about as deep as the root mass but two to three times as wide.
- Burying the plant too deep can cause the base of the main stem to remain underground, resulting in moisture damage.
- Digging a hole that is too narrow makes it difficult to fill it with enough soil.
Step 2. Transfer it carefully to the soil
Gently tilt the container to one side. Apply pressure to the sides of the container using one hand while carefully lifting the entire plant, with all the roots, with the other hand. Once removed, place the plant standing in the center of the hole you dug.
- If you are using a plant with jute-wrapped roots, carefully trim any string or other material surrounding the root before placing it in the hole.
- Avoid damaging the root as you free it or transplant the bush.
Step 3. Fill the hole halfway
Loosely fill about half of the space around the root mass with garden soil.
Pour the soil into the hole carefully. Do not squeeze it into the hole with your hands as doing so could cause damage to the root system
Step 4. Water well
Pour enough water into the added soil to cause it to sink further into the hole.
Wait a few moments after pouring the water. You have to let all air pockets disappear and the ground settles completely
Step 5. Fill in the rest of the hole
Fill the rest of the empty space with more garden soil.
As before, leave the loose soil without pressing it with your hands
Step 6. Water well
Add more water. This time, you should pour in enough water to totally soak the soil.
Wait a few minutes and observe the water above the ground. It should eventually sink, leaving no puddle. The top of the soil should still feel moist to the touch, though
Step 7. Keep plenty of space between the plants
If you are planting a lot of oleander bushes, you should space each bush 1.8-3.7 meters from the others.
For each additional oleander plant, follow the same instructions on the size of the hole and how to fill it
Part 3 of 3: Daily Care
Step 1. Water regularly throughout the summer
During its active growing season, oleanders need 2.5cm of water per week. You may not need to water the plants during a rainy summer, while you should do it during a dry one.
- Although rooted oleanders can withstand drought, they thrive when they are given an occasional plentiful watering.
- If the leaves start to turn yellow, however, the plant is getting too much water. Remove any leaves that have turned completely yellow and leave the oleander dry for a longer period of time.
Step 2. Apply compost every spring
While powerful fertilizers are often unnecessary, you can fertilize oleander by spreading compost from the base of the main stem to the space under the outermost branches.
You could use a mild fertilizer with balanced amounts of phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen in the spring if the soil is particularly nutrient-poor, but only do this in the first few years. After the plant has taken root, switch to a light compost instead of a proper fertilizer
Step 3. Add mulch
Apply a 5cm layer of mulch every spring. In late autumn, remove this layer and replace it with another 5 cm.
- Mulch added in spring protects the plant from weeds and allows the roots to stay moist.
- Mulch added in the fall serves to isolate the root system and protect the plant from cold weather.
- Use organic mulch, such as wood chips or grass clippings.
Step 4. Prune lightly after the main flowering period
Once a cluster of flowers dies, cut them away to encourage a longer overall flowering time. After the flowers have run out of vigor, you should also trim off the tips of the stems to encourage better branching.
Don't wait until late fall to do this, though. The new growth takes several weeks to fortify before frost arrives
Step 5. Prune extensively in the spring
In summer, oleanders bloom on new growths, so it is best to do the bulk of pruning in the spring before the plant enters its active growth period.
- You need to remove wood that has been damaged by cold, pests or diseases. Also remove excess greenery and tangled wood.
- During the spring, you should also remove the suckers from the base of the plant as they can drain its resources and reduce the flowering capacity.
- Trim the plant to the desired size, cutting just above a knot on a stem. A leaf node is a section where three leaves emerge from a branch. Cutting here will push the new branches to form at the node, and you will get three new branches when the plant starts growing again.
- Avoid pruning more than a third of the plant whenever possible. Oleanders can bounce back if you prune them more, but really over pruning can weaken them.
- Oleanders usually grow rapidly, stretching an additional 30 to 60 cm per year. Left to their own devices, oleanders can reach heights of between 2.5 and 3.7 meters, and can grow just as wide. It seems that some oleander plants have reached 6 meters. Dwarf varieties, on the other hand, usually reach 1-1.5 m in height.
Step 6. Know the possible problems related to pests and diseases
Oleanders rarely experience pest and disease problems, but they are not entirely immune. Treat a plant only after recognizing a problem, though.
- The disease that most commonly affects the oleander plant is related to fungi of the genus Botryosphaeria, and it happens more frequently if the plant has suffered stress from a drought or a frost. The branches and shoots will die and turn dark brown. Remove infected branches completely and get rid of them away from the garden.
- Oleander sphinxes are the most common parasite. They feed in groups and can destroy young shoots. These parasites are about 5 cm long with orange-red bodies and tufts of black fur. Quickly apply a pesticide as soon as you notice several sphinxes on your plant.
- Aphids and pseudococci can also cause problems, but rarely. Apply an appropriate pesticide if appropriate.
Warnings
- Oleanders are poisonous. All parts of the plant are toxic, and even small amounts can kill if ingested, especially when consumed by children and animals.
- Use gloves when handling an oleander as contact can cause skin irritation. For the same reason, you should also wear long sleeves and pants.
- Do not burn the cut parts of a plant as smoking can cause a severe allergic reaction.
