A traditional kilt can be difficult to make, but with a little time and a good deal of patience, even a sewing machine rookie can do it. This article will teach you how to make this masculine garment.
Steps
Part 1 of 6: Choosing the Right Tartan
Step 1. Choose the tartan according to the clan
Clans and large families of Scottish descent often have their own tartans since the early 1800s. You can only use a clan design if your family has current or ancestral ties to that clan..
- Find out which clan you belong to. Just know your surname or a surname related to Scottish ancestors and you can search online for the name of your clan. Try searching here:
- Research information about your clan. Once you find out your clan name, you can get more information to find out which tartan it is associated with. Search for your clan here:
Step 2. Choose a district tartan
. District tartans are as old as clan tartans, if not older. There are tartans from various districts throughout Scotland and many for areas around the world. You can wear tartan from a given territory if you or your family are from that territory.
- Check out the Scottish districts here:
- Check out the English districts here:
- Check out the American districts here:
- Check out Canadian districts here:
- Check out all the other districts here:
Step 3. Choose a regimental tartan
Some Scottish regiments and others around the world have tartans just for them. If you are part of a certain regiment, or are directly related to that regiment, that tartan would be a good choice for you.
Check out the various regimental tartans here:
Step 4. If all else fails, use a universal tartan
Tartan with universal motifs can be used by everyone regardless of clan, district or other.
- More traditional and ancient options include the motifs: Hunting Stewart, Black Watch, Caledonian, and Jacobite.
- Modern universal versions include: Scottish National, Brave Heart Warrior, Flower of Scotland, and Pride of Scotland.
Part 2 of 6: Measurements and Preparation
Step 1. Measure your waist and pelvis
Take the tape measure and measure your hips and waist. These measurements will determine how much material you need for the kilt.
- For women, measure the thinnest part of the waist and the widest part of the hips.
- For men, measure from the highest part of the pelvis and the widest part of the buttocks.
- When measuring, make sure the tape measure is taut and parallel to the ground.
Step 2. Determine the length of the kilt
A traditional length kilt will be equal to the distance between the waist and the middle of the knee. Use a tape measure to calculate this distance.
If you plan to wear a wide kilt belt on top, add 5cm to this measurement to get a high waist
Step 3. Calculate how much material you need
Since you will need to pleat the material, you will need a longer length than your waist.
- Measure the width of the design on the fold on the tartan. Each fold consists of a complete design with approximately 2.5cm of fold exposed. In other words, if the designs on your material are 15cm wide, each fold will use approximately 18cm.
- Calculate how much material you need by multiplying half your waist measurement by the amount of material you need for each single fold, and add this value to your full waist measurement. Add an extra 20% for additional creases to get the total number of centimeters needed. Divide the value by 72 to determine how many meters you need in double width.
Step 4. Hem the material if needed
Pin the top and bottom, making sure to fold over the outer edge of a pattern on both sides. Sew the hems with a straight stitch or use liquid anti-fray adhesive on the edges..
This will not be necessary if the fabric has finished edges on the top and bottom
Part 3 of 6: Doing the Pleats
Step 1. Make the first pleat
It will help to center the material, so that it will end up being a little different from the others.
- Fold just over 6 inches of material under itself on the right side of the material. Stop it with a pin at the waist.
- On the left side of the material, make a fold that takes two motifs. Secure it with a pin around your waist.
Step 2. Measure the pleats
On a piece of cardboard, mark the width of a pleat. Divide this marked area into equal parts, from three to eight.
Choose carefully how many parts to divide the design into. The middle part will stick out of the fold, so your middle section should have an eye-catching part of the design
Step 3. Pleat the rest of the outer flap
Put the cardboard guide on top of each design when you fold it. Overlap the folded edges of each pleat over the part of the design that corresponds to it in the next design on the side. Secure with a pin.
The cardboard guide should give you an idea of where to fold the first pleats. After you have started, it may be that the guide will no longer serve you as it should only become a problem of matching the drawings together
Step 4. Pack the pleats along the bottom of the fabric
Use the running stitch to grab the edge of each pleat, holding it firmly at the bottom of the material.
You should do two lines of basting. The first running stitch should be ¼ the length from the bottom of the material, and the second about halfway
Step 5. Iron the pleats flat
Use one with the steam jet to press the folds well, making them more durable and helping them to hold their shape. Iron along each edge of each pleat.
If you don't have a steam iron, you can dampen a thin cloth and place it over the pleats. Press the cloth between the iron and the material of your kilt and iron the pleats like this
Step 6. Sew the pleats in place
Sew along the entire width of the folds and down following the folds along the line of the fold.
- Sew a straight stitch with your sewing machine along the top of the pleats, approximately one inch from the top edge.
- Sew a straight stitch with your sewing machine across the folded and ironed vertical edge of each pleat. Sew only about 10 cm of material. Don't sew each fold all the way.
Step 7. Refine the back of the pleats
This method can end up with excess material, so you can cut it out to fix it.
Cut the excess fabric from the section starting 2.5 cm above the hip line and ending at the waist
Part 4 of 6: Adding a Belt
Step 1. Cut a strip of fabric for the belt
It should be about 13 cm in width and the length should match the top edge of the kilt.
It should be slightly longer than your initial waist measurement
Step 2. Sew the waistband to the top edge of the outer skirt
Fold back the bottom edge of the belt about 1.3 cm. Sew this folded edge 2.5 cm from the top edge of the skirt, on the outside.
The rest of the belt width should be folded over the top of the kilt. There is no need to refine it as the lining will cover the unfinished edges
Part 5 of 6: Add the Liner
Step 1. Cut a piece of canvas into sections
Cut a 91cm canvas into 25cm wide sections.
Step 2. Gradually wrap sections of the canvas around your waist
The cover will be obtained from three 25cm wide strips prices.
- Wrap the first section along the wearer's back.
- Attach two more sections to the first at the right and left points where there would usually be a side seam.
- Put these two side sections together, turning them in front until each piece meets the side seam of the opposite side.
- Secure everything with pins.
Step 3. Sew the lining to the waistband
Line up the top edge of the lining with the inside edge of the waistband and sew everything together.
- Make an overlapping stitch along the top of the inside of the kilt to attach the lining to the kilt.
- Only the top needs to be attached. The lower part does not need to be attached to the lining of the outer skirt.
- Note that the inside of the belt will also be sewn under the lining to hold it in place.
Step 4. Hem the material
Fold back the bottom edge of the lining and sew with a straight stitch along the material to make the hem. Do not sew it to the outer skirt.
You can also use anti-fray liquid glue if you don't want to sew the hems
Part 6 of 6: Finishing Touches
Step 1. Attach two thin belts to the inside of the kilt
You will need two leather belts about 2.5 cm wide and long enough to go around your waist.
- The first leather belt should go just below the tartan belt, on the reverse side of the kilt.
- The second leather belt should go right above the bottom of the sewn part of the pleats. Again, on the back of the kilt.
- Sew the belts. The leather part should be attached to the lining while the buckled parts should be attached to the pleats.
Step 2. Sew Velcro to the skirt
For extra support, sew a strip of Velcro to the top of the skirt.
One half of the velcro is sewn on the upper right side of the front flap, while the other half is sewn on the upper left side
Step 3. Put on the kilt
Once this is done, the kilt should be complete. Wear it by wrapping the fabric around your waist and closing the belts so that it stays in place. Use velcro to add extra support so the kilt doesn't move.
