Trousers were once a men's workwear; now both men and women wear formal and informal trousers. Pants can be made of different fabrics, such as wool, tweed, linen, crepe, jersey and denim. Making a pair of pants may not be super easy, as it requires careful measurements and time to hand-tailor them. To be able to make trousers you need to be familiar with the use of the sewing machine and knowledge of the basic stitches. This article will teach you how to make a pair of pants.
Steps
Step 1. Find a pattern for the pants you want to create
There are different types, for men, women or children and for trousers with pleats, bell bottoms, tight and high, low or normal waist; you can find patterns in haberdashery or online. Make sure you buy the pattern that fits the person who will wear them.
Step 2. Choose the fabric for your trousers at a haberdashery
You can also order the fabric online, but it is preferable that you have the chance to see and touch it before making your own pants. Get at least 3 m of fabric: better to have more than to be without. The pattern should give you the exact amount of fabric you need to complete your project.
Step 3. Purchase 1/2 m of washable fabric for the inner lining of the trousers, and a color for the stitching that camouflages with the fabric or matches the color of the trousers
Step 4. Practice topstitching with extra fabric before you begin
This way you will verify that you have chosen the right color and that you are able to create the look you want. For denim trousers you will need to double topstitch to create the classic style of jeans.
Step 5. Take six body measurements, yours or the wearer's, if your pattern requires it
Some patterns are already the right size, while for others it is necessary to take the measurements first and make the necessary adjustments. When you become practical in making pants, you can think of abandoning the patterns and experimenting according to the measurements. These are the steps to take:
- The measurement of the outside of the leg. Using a tape measure, measure from the beginning of the waist down to the ankle passing through the outside of the leg. Add about 5 cm to calculate the waist band.
- The inside leg measurement. Measure the inside of the leg from the groin to the ankle.
- The measure of the hips. Measure your waistline from the widest point with the tape measure, whether it is around the hips or buttocks, so that the trousers fit well. Divide the number into quarters, since you will be using four different pieces of fabric.
- The measurement of the thigh. Measure the circumference of the thigh at its widest point. Divide the number in half and add about 2.5 cm. The thigh area must have more space for the pant to be comfortable in movement as well.
- The measure of the ankle. Measure the circumference of your ankle, making sure that the measurement taken will allow you to pass one foot through it. Divide the number in half. For flared pants this size will be adjusted to be much wider. The pattern should tell you how many cm you need to increase it.
- The size of the horse. Measure the distance between your front waistline (near your navel) and your back waistline, following the line of the crotch. Divide the number in half and add about 5 cm. Again you will need room for movement.
Step 6. Cut the pattern along the dotted lines and put the pieces together to make sure they match each other before you start cutting the fabric
It is essential to correct any cutting errors so that the seam lines match.
Step 7. Place the pattern pieces over the wrong side of the fabric
Cut along the lines of the pattern, leaving about 1.6 cm of space for the seams all around. Mark the pattern pieces with a number or letter if you are afraid of getting lost when sewing the pieces together.
Step 8. Line up the two pieces of fabric that will make up the back of your pants
Pin them in place so they stay aligned until you sew them. Point a pin every 2.5 cm, placing it so that the point is facing the seam, so you can remove it from the other side while sewing on the machine.
Step 9. Sew the pants where the two pieces of fabric meet with a simple stitch along the entire edge of the fabric
Step 10. With the iron press the seam to one side, then make a single or double topstitch on the outer seams of the pants
Step 11. Line up the two pieces of fabric that will make up the front of your pants
Hold them in place with pins and sew the fabric along the outside edge. With the iron press the seam and make a single or double topstitch on the outer seams.
Step 12. Line up the pants where the zipper is to be placed
Baste all around to keep the pants together; you will remove the basting later. Iron the basted part keeping the two fabric parts open in front of you.
- Place the zipper over the iron-pressed fabric so it doesn't get under the sewing machine as you sew. Line up the edge of the strap with the basting and pin the left zipper tape with the fabric. Machine sew the left ribbon making sure to topstitch to secure the strap.
- Turn the fabric over so that the zipper is facing your work table and the fabric is on the opposite side. Sew the outer edge to the same side as the zipper.
- On the outside of the fabric, pin the right zipper tape with the fabric in a curved line. Look at the curve of other trouser zippers to understand how the seam should curve. Make sure you sew well around the zipper and not sew on it. Make a curved topstitch, then iron and remove the basting.
Step 13. Match the back of the pants to the front with the inside of the fabric facing out
Pin the outer seams, avoiding the zipper area.
Step 14. Sew with a simple stitch along the outer leg seam
Turn the fabric inside out to bring the outside out.
Step 15. Cut an interlining band for the waist, as measured previously. Cut the fabric around the interlining band and be sure to leave an extra 1.6 cm margin
Iron the band.
Step 16. Pin the band to the pants
It should extend further on the right side.
Step 17. Sew the two parts together and cut off the excess fabric
Turn the inside of the trouser inside out again and fold the interlining band over so that it overlaps the first few inches of the trouser waistband. Turn the trousers back inside out and perform a single or double topstitch to secure the band.
Step 18. Put on your pants to see where you need to hem
Hem the bottom of the pants after making a double inside cuff. Sew once from the inside and then do a single or double topstitch.
Step 19. Attach a button and make a buttonhole on the waistband above the zipper
Try on the pants.
Advice
- For your first pair of pants, it is best to avoid a model with pockets, as it is a little more complicated to make. In any case, if you plan on making pockets as well, sew a small band at the apex of each pocket to prevent it from folding outward when wearing pants.
- If you plan to wash the fabric before making the pants, make a zigzag stitch with the sewing machine along all the edges to prevent fraying.
- If the pattern has pleats or pleats, remember to use the pattern to transfer the directions to the back of the fabric with a marker or pencil. Do this immediately after cutting the fabric, as long as the pattern is still on top.
- If you are unsure how the pants should fit, baste the front and back of your pants together along the outer edge and try them on. Make the necessary adjustments and then sew them together.
