Guinea pigs are rather small animals, but they need a lot of space, a lot of care and to interact frequently with the owner. If you are willing to give your guinea pig the attention it deserves, a good home with great food, the necessary living space and the veterinary care and grooming it needs, you will be rewarded with cheerful life partner, healthy and fun.
Steps
Part 1 of 4: Preparations Required
Step 1. Make or purchase a large enough cage
The cage should measure 0, 7 or 1 square meter, depending on whether there are one or two guinea pigs. Either way, the larger the cage, the better.
- The cage must have a solid bottom (not cross-linked), so that the delicate legs of the animal are protected.
- If the cage walls are at least 30-35cm high, no lid is needed.
- Watch out for multi-story cages. A drop of just 15cm can damage your guinea pig's paws. Older specimens should be kept in single-story cages.
- Set up a litter box a few inches deep; use bits of paper or aspen shavings. Change the litter box at least twice a week, or more often if you notice wet areas. Absolutely do not use cedar shavings, they can cause respiratory problems for your little friend.
Step 2. Find a good location for the cage
Choose an area of the house frequented by family members - the living room, bedroom and foyer are great places, because traffic is frequent there.
- Guinea pigs are very sensitive to temperature, so many vets recommend keeping them indoors, which also allows them to interact easily with their owner. That said, some experts recommend exposing guinea pigs to sunlight on a regular basis. To find out how long your guinea pig will spend outside or inside your home, you will need to consider several factors, including the climate of the area you live in. Consult your veterinarian, he will be able to give you valuable advice on the matter.
- Make sure that no one can trip over the cage or hit and overturn it.
- Do not put the cage in a garage where cars are parked: the exhaust fumes can harm the animal's health (and even kill it). Also, inside a garage, the temperature is generally unstable.
Step 3. To prevent the guinea pig from feeling lonely, adopt at least one pair
Guinea pigs need company, because they are social animals. Spend some time with them every day - leaving a social animal alone can lead to depression.
- You can keep two females together, two neutered males, or two males who have never been separated.
- You can take a male and a female with you, but be aware that they may reproduce. If you suspect the female is pregnant, separate the two guinea pigs and consult your veterinarian to find out what to do.
Part 2 of 4: Power
Step 1. Give your guinea pig plenty of water
One of the most important things when caring for a pet is to have fresh, clean water available at all times of the day.
- Keep your guinea pig's water dispenser clean and change its contents once a day. The best dispenser you can buy is a guinea pig / rabbit bottle with a ball in the spout. A dog bowl (which has never been used) may be fine, but it must be shallow so that the guinea pig can rest its front paws on the edge and lower its head to drink. be careful! The animal may defecate or urinate inside the bowl; also for this reason the use of raised dispensers is highly recommended.
- Frequently clean the bottle spout with a cotton swab to free it of food residues that can harbor harmful bacteria and obstruct the flow of water.
- The bottle can be cleaned by putting some (raw) rice inside with a little water and shaking vigorously: the rice will remove any greenish accumulations (algae).
- If the cage is left in the sun for most of the day, algae may form more easily: for this reason, cover the bottles with an opaque cloth to avoid the proliferation of harmful organisms.
- Do not add vitamin supplements or anything else to the water: in addition to not being effective, guinea pigs may refuse to drink.
Step 2. Make sure the guinea pig always has good hay on hand
Guinea pigs are vegetarian animals, so they need to always have something to chew on (rat tail, moss grass, etc.), otherwise they could have serious digestive problems. When feeding hay to your guinea pig, be sure to compact it properly so that the animal does not hurt its eyes while eating due to the protruding spikes.
- Alfalfa hay should be given to young up to six months of age and to pregnant or nursing females. This hay contains a large number of additional nutrients and is not suitable for adult and healthy specimens.
- Rat tail hay, moss grass, and bluegrass should be given to guinea pigs over six months old. Animals should always have these types of hay available so they can feed on them freely.
- Lack of hay can cause a disorder known as malocclusion, a misalignment of the teeth that may require surgery, as well as causing gastrointestinal blockage, which often has deadly consequences.
Step 3. Give your guinea pig fresh vegetables every day
Your little friend's diet should consist of 20% green leafy vegetables. Be careful though! Too many such vegetables can cause stomach upset and bouts of diarrhea. Get a list of the most suitable foods for your guinea pig; contact your veterinarian or consult a reputable website for more information on this.
- Food portions should include lots of high-vitamin C vegetables; this vitamin is very important, since guinea pigs are unable to produce it independently and its deficiency can favor the onset of diseases.
- Suitable vegetables can be: celery, carrots, tomatoes (duly removed from the bunch), cucumbers, corn, cabbage, small quantities of raw broccoli, spinach and pea pods. Limit the use of certain vegetables to prevent your pet from suffering from digestive problems. Some fruits, such as strawberries and chopped apples, are good for guinea pigs as long as they are given them only occasionally (the acids contained in these foods can be harmful to these animals).
- If your guinea pig doesn't want to eat vegetables, try shredding or slicing them; keep in mind that every guinea pig has their own tastes and may simply not like a certain type of vegetable.
- Vegetables to avoid include: iceberg lettuce, arugula, red leafy greens, cauliflower, chard, potatoes, and radishes.
- As for serving sizes, a single guinea pig needs one cup of vegetables a day. Splitting the daily meal into two portions is a good idea, as guinea pigs are ruminants, and prefer to eat throughout the day rather than having a large single meal a day.
Step 4. Use food pellets sparingly
A healthy animal does not need to be fed this type of food. If your guinea pig is used to feeding on pellets, change his diet to offer him healthier foods, but do so gradually; consult your veterinarian for advice on this.
- If your guinea pig is sick, give him good quality pellets. Some food pellets are more suitable for older specimens (who are over six months old), others, such as those containing alfalfa, are more suitable for young specimens (who are less than six months old). Choose low calcium pellets.
- Do not feed your guinea pig with pellets for rabbits (or rodents in general): the vitamin content may not be suitable for your guinea pig, harming its health.
- When giving your guinea pig pellets, make sure it doesn't contain any seeds (which could choke it). Give it a simple pellet, which is uniform in color, does not contain dried fruit, cereals, etc. The pellet must be pellets, nothing else.
Step 5. Don't feed your guinea pig any other food
Food pellets, hay, untreated fresh grass (wheat or field grass) and fresh vegetables are all your little friend needs; feeding him other things could seriously harm his health.
Part 3 of 4: Exercise and Socialization
Step 1. Let your guinea pig spend some time on the floor every day
Leave him free to move within his enclosed space; so that nobody will step on it, build a small enclosure indoors (in a room where the floor is easily washable) or outside (if the day is not particularly cold or muggy).
- Make sure your guinea pigs have enough room to run around and play in their little “gym”. Being able to move and play is essential for your little friends, it makes them happy!
- Put some toys in the pen and set up a small tunnel system.
- When taking your guinea pigs out to play outside, take a few extra precautions. Keep an eye on them constantly when you are outside, they could slip into some crevice and escape from your yard, or be prey to animals (such as cats or birds of prey) that could sneak into the garden.
Step 2. Provide your guinea pig with plenty of cage toys and accessories
You can build the toys yourself, using boxes, paper bags, cardboard food packs, folders and so on. Be creative and use what you have available.
Step 3. To bond with your guinea pig, interact with him several times a day
Guinea pigs are social animals and, in nature, live in groups. Picking up your little friend from time to time will only make him happy; talk to him, cuddle him and keep him close to you whenever possible; often plays with him.
- In some countries, it is illegal to buy only one guinea pig and must be bought in pairs: these animals are better off in company.
- Guinea pigs can suffer from depression if no emotional bond is established with them (common symptoms include: loss of appetite, inactivity, etc.)
- Guinea pigs are very intelligent; you can teach them to stand up on their hind legs, turn around, jump and more.
Part 4 of 4: Cleanliness and Health
Step 1. Clean your guinea pig's cage
Guinea pigs are pretty neat animals, but try to clean the cage at least twice a week. Remove the excrement and food scraps from the day before, clean the water bottle and put more hay inside the cage. It can be useful to plan ahead and establish the two days of the week in which to dedicate yourself to this operation.
Step 2. At least once a week, clean the cage thoroughly
The frequency of cleaning depends on the type of litter used and the number of guinea pigs living in the cage.
- Remove all litter, cage linings, litter, food, and toys throw away what you don't need and clean up reusable items with an antibacterial spray that is not harmful to guinea pigs. Remove all traces of detergent before putting what you cleaned back into the cage; do not use products designed for humans.
- Clean the inside of the cage using an antibacterial spray that is not harmful to guinea pigs (to kill bacteria naturally, you can use water and then leave the cage in the sun). After cleaning it, put the cage outside for air.
- Replace the litter box. To prevent urine stains from forming on the bottom of the cage, place a layer of newspaper under the litter box. Newspaper is absolutely not to be used as a bedding material and must not be accessible to the guinea pig, who could gnaw it, swallow the ink and get sick.
- As a litter, you can use a specific commercial product, an absorbent cloth on top of towels or aspen shavings.
- Do not use sawdust or wood chips as a bedding material; do not use cedar or pine shavings, as they contain substances that are harmful to your guinea pig.
- To line the cage, you can use towels placed under a cloth, as long as the cloth and towels are cut to fit the size of the cage. Make sure the cloth and towels are not frayed - the delicate paws of guinea pigs could get caught in the fabric threads.
- Provide an area for your guinea pig to sleep in; you can buy a small igloo at a pet store or put a small pile of hay in the cage for the pets to dig into.
Step 3. Trim your paw nails every few weeks
If your guinea pig has dark nails, aim a flashlight behind the nail so you can see where the live flesh is. If you cut too close to the blood vessels, the nail may bleed. in these cases, use haemostatic powder or flour to stop the bleeding.
The first time you cut your guinea pig's nails, if you don't know exactly how to do it, contact your vet - he can trim the rodent's nails for you and teach you how to proceed in these cases
Step 4. Don't wash your guinea pig too frequently
Wash him infrequently, a few times a year, because bathing can upset his body balance.
Step 5. Pay attention to any signs of illness
Know the symptoms. When needed, take your guinea pig to an exotic animal veterinarian for proper care. Watch for any changes in appetite or behavior, as guinea pigs tend to hide the disease very well.
Make sure all your guinea pigs are treated at the same time - certain diseases are contagious and are easily transmitted from one animal to another
Step 6. Check the genital area
The genital area of the male specimens could become occluded. If you have any problems, gently massage the area and clean the outside of the anus with a cotton ball if you notice any traces of excrement. Make sure the excrement doesn't clog the anus.
Step 7. Keep your guinea pigs away from rabbits
Rabbits carry a particular bacterium that can make guinea pigs sick; moreover, rabbits are bigger and stronger animals: the kick of a rabbit, even if given as a game, can kill a guinea pig.
Step 8. Weigh your guinea pig weekly
A weight change of up to 50g is normal, but a greater change may be due to a health problem (in which case, it is best to consult an experienced veterinarian). A digital kitchen scale may be fine for weighing your guinea pig.
Advice
- Guinea pigs chew practically everything; when you leave a guinea pig free to play on the floor of the room, first make sure that you have secured books, documents and so on.
- Guinea pigs eat their droppings (the phenomenon is known as coprophagia, and it is completely normal among animals). You may notice your guinea pig licking its rear; if this happens, don't worry: by ingesting their own droppings, guinea pigs take in important nutrients provided by the bacteria in their intestines.
- If your guinea pig jumps in the air or turns its head quickly while jumping around, it is not in the throes of an epilepsy fit; he is simply demonstrating his joy or trying to vent excess energy (just like a cat running around the house).
- As a food container, use a heavy bowl - the guinea pig may knock over a light one or gnaw on it if it is plastic.
- Don't put your guinea pig in a hamster ball, it could break your back.
- Sometimes guinea pigs take an exploratory bite; if it happens, there is nothing to worry about: when they understand that your hand is not food for them, they stop.
- For their safety, keep your guinea pigs away from animals larger than them.
- Do not wash your guinea pigs with regular soap, as it may dry out their skin. Go to a pet shop and buy some soap suitable for guinea pigs.
- Guinea pigs can take 3-5 days to acclimate to their new home. Don't be mad if your new guinea pig doesn't approach you right away.
- Let your guinea pig sniff you before grabbing it so it can recognize you.
Warnings
- Guinea pigs hide the disease very well and often the symptoms only become evident when the latter is at an advanced stage. When guinea pigs get sick, their health can deteriorate quickly - see a vet immediately if you notice your guinea pig is sick!
- If your guinea pig has scabs around its eyes or nose, it may have a respiratory infection and should be taken to a capable veterinarian. as soon as possible.
- Clean the cage every three days if you use straw bedding, as worms may be hiding inside. Also, if you use a straw bedding, make sure the bed is not too hard and that the straw threads, being pointed, are not dangerous for the eyes of your friends.
- Don't feed your guinea pig: potatoes, onions, leeks, tomato leaves, chocolate, corn, wheat, dairy, meat, mushrooms, junk food, alcohol, or iceberg lettuce.
- Avoid commercially produced toys or treats. Many are harmful to rodents, so stay away from them and give your guinea pigs some carrots or fruit as a treat once or twice a week.
- If you feed your guinea pigs with grass, make sure it hasn't been treated with chemicals - the fresher it is, the better!
- Never leave a guinea pig unnoticed when it is in an elevated position, it could fall and break its legs.
- Never use sawdust, cob or plastic litter. Avoid putting plastic objects in the cage: guinea pigs could chew them and choke by swallowing the fragments.
- Guinea pigs are very fast animals and may escape once out of the cage, so be careful when opening the cage doors and letting them loose. When you put them in their enclosure on the floor, be careful they can't escape or get into trouble.
- When buying a guinea pig at a pet store, be careful that it is free from disease - check its nose, eyes and ears.
- Clean your guinea pig's cage frequently.
- Don't trust the advice of pet shop employees too much - few of them really know how to care for guinea pigs.
- Know that there is an overpopulation of guinea pigs; many of these animals are looking for homes, so if possible adopt a guinea pig instead of buying one, and if you can do without it, avoid setting up a farm.
- Do not put drops of vitamin C in the water of your guinea pigs. Vitamin C degrades rapidly in water and becomes useless. If you need to give your guinea pig some vitamin C, use special tablets that are suitable for him. Only sick or undernourished animals need supplements, remember!
- Never place the guinea pig cage outside or in direct sunlight.
- Never hit, kick, throw or otherwise harm your guinea pig - it is illegal and punishable by law!
- Never use the classic hamster balls or wheels: even those made especially for guinea pigs are dangerous and can damage their legs and back.
