Here's how to save energy and money on heating and air conditioning by installing window insulation film.
Steps
Step 1. Find out about window insulation film
The window insulation film that this article talks about, and found in most home improvement stores, is a shrink film that is applied to the inside of the window frame to form an air chamber that blocks the windows. drafts and hinders the convection of the internal air mass through a window that is too cold (or too hot). Window laminate films that stick directly to glass such as car window tints, to shade, insulate and strengthen, are very different.
Step 2. Choose the windows to isolate
You won't be able to open the window without peeling off the film, so leave at least one window near the kitchen uninsulated in case it needs airing after burning some food. It is recommended that you leave uninsulated windows on opposite ends of the house for easy opening in good weather if you don't want to insulate again every winter. You will not be able to reach the window shutters after applying the insulation, and a lack of cover on the windows lets a lot of heat pass in or out, so do not apply the insulation where the shutters are involved, unless do not have curtains to darken the window at night or want the shutters to be permanently closed or almost entirely closed (for example to make light at an angle without being able to see straight through the window). A window that has to be used in some way is not a good candidate anyway, because the film and its taping are not very strong.
Step 3. Prepare the windows
It is more efficient to isolate everything you want to isolate at the same time. Remove debris around the lower sash, window latch and locking system, clean the window and frame, and clean and adjust the shutters if there are any (a vacuum cleaner works well to get rid of dust). Let the window and frame dry.
Step 4. Open the duct tape box and take out the tape
Use your fingers, not sharp objects, to open the box, as you risk damaging the film. Leave the film for later.
If the tape is not enough, tell the manufacturer that you need more: the missing quantity will probably be sent free of charge. Long rolls of double-sided tape, which are weak enough not to lift the paint, are hardly available on their own
Step 5. Test the adhesiveness of the tape
- Attach a small piece of ribbon to the frame.
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If the tape comes off very easily, there is moisture or grease on the frame.
- Clean the grease with a cloth and residue-free solvents such as denatured alcohol or white spirit (quite common in the UK) or ethanol (common in the US).
- Eliminate moisture and use a little heat to evaporate the residue. Raise the thermostat several degrees, or use a heater in the main window area. Make sure any humidifier in your home is turned off and you haven't boiled or used hot water in a couple of hours.
- Metal frames are more difficult. It is difficult to remove moisture from the metal frame because cold metal attracts moisture very quickly. Metal frames must be smooth; any loose paint or rust must be removed. Use a plastic brush to scrape off the excess; spoil them more or show off more surface to repaint.
Step 6. Apply the tape to the frame
It must be placed on the front of the mullions and on the window sill facing the vertical mullions. Place it inside a riser relief, if your style calls for one, to keep it straight and protect it with the riser edge. Cut one end in the right place with a pair of scissors before applying it. When you finish one piece, rub in the corner and peel off the backing paper about an inch (a few centimeters) to overlap with the next piece. Be careful not to touch the sticky part or the frame area with your fingers, as this creates a layer of grease which reduces adhesiveness.
Step 7. Roll out the tape using steady pressure
Use a couple of kitchen paper towels.
Step 8. Remove the protector from the top piece and about 30cm from each side at the top end
Step 9. Unpack the film
The film is thin and is easily damaged with hard objects. It also has static charges, so keep it away from dirt and dust, and especially from the floor. If the package contains multiple sheets of film, unpack only one at a time; if it contains a single large sheet, consider how to place it and how to cut it to minimize waste.
Step 10. Think about how best to fit the film to the window
If you have single window-sized sheets, it should be easy, but if you have very tall windows, measure first. It may be just large enough, so that you will have to leave tight margins, or you may need to splice the film to get the length you need. You can splice the sheets with double-sided tape, or even some large, clear packaging tape (which could possibly lift the paint). These imperfect corrections are more easily masked in the upper part of the window after applying the film from the base upwards, rather than in the lower part after applying the film from top to bottom as usual. If you have a large sheet, or part of it remains after isolating other windows, you could use "width" rather than "height" more efficiently.
Step 11. Unroll the first 30 cm of the film along the entire width of the window
Leave the rest of the film wrapped. The film is tightly wrapped due to static charges and can be difficult to separate. If it does not separate easily, moisten your thumb and fingers and rub the edge of the film gently until it separates (this may take some time, and you will notice that the friction increases until the film separates.). The wrapped edge is recognizable because it remains a little wrinkled, while the film is flat. Do not unroll the film before applying it, as the internal surfaces facing the glass will immediately begin to attract dust. Attach the top edge of the film to the tape, centering it so that a small edge remains on each side.
Step 12. If the film pack is dusty, put the dusty surfaces outside, towards the room, so they can be cleaned without problem
To do this, it presents the insulating film at the top of the frame with the inside facing towards the window.
Step 13. Work down the window as you attach the film
Unroll about 6 inches of film at a time, peel off the backing paper tape (or pull it off all at once), and attach the film to the tape. Keep the sides slightly stretched and stretch from side to side as well. The crepes are fine: they will be removed later.
Step 14. Remove the last few inches of protection from the bottom tape by holding the film away from the tape with your other hand
Secure the bottom of the film. Do not pull the film; rather, accompany it a bit to make sure it sticks across the entire width of the tape across the sill, including the corners. This is a common weakness because the tension tends to lift the film off the duct tape on the sill, rather than sticking directly as it does with the tape on the other posts.
If the tape subsequently comes off the bottom post, you can fix the problem with clear packaging tape (which doesn't look perfect enough and can lift the paint)
Step 15. Rub the film carefully on the tape from all sides
Do not use hard objects. A clean cloth should be fine.
Step 16. Trim the excess film with a snap cutter
Very gently pull the film where you are cutting to keep it perpendicular to the window and tape, and, keeping the cutter parallel and facing away from the center of the window, cut the excess film less than an inch from the edge of the tape (this eliminates the need to scrape the window frame near the tape). Continuously cut removing the film as you cut, rather than making many holes. Care must be taken as the film can tear through the tape line. The small excess of film will shrink further when heat is applied and will not be noticeable.
Be very careful not to fall out of the window, and to extend the cutter very little, holding it so that you are unlikely to get badly cut in the event of an accident
Step 17. Use a hair dryer to shrink the film, removing the wrinkles
Keep it a few inches away; you will see the film begin to shrink. Closer won't work better - it would only reduce airflow, potentially overheating the hair dryer or ruining the film. Follow a pattern, for example, by forming spirals from the corners towards the center. Shrinking in one spot will remove ripples all over. Do not try to shrink an area large enough to remove all wrinkles at once. This would create uneven tension and could separate the film from the tape.
If the hair dryer turns itself off, it has probably overheated. It should have a thermal switch that will reset if it is left off and left to cool for at least half an hour
Advice
- If possible, choose a day when the temperature is not very low. This will make it easier for the frame to dry completely, as the condensation rate will be lower.
- If you are buying tape, choose one with good shear strength, such as construction tape. Most of the cheap tapes in local stores are made for stationery and will not perform well.
Warnings
- Some use an electric fan heater to speed shrinkage, but obviously this is not recommended as it could be dangerous.
- Do not stretch the film. Just focus on avoiding the ripples that cross the ribbon line.
