Water can freeze in domestic pipes due to improperly wrapped Teflon tape, a malfunctioning thermostat, or inadequate insulation. In the worst case scenario, frozen water can rupture the conduit and cause serious damage. Start by inspecting the pipes for cracks and crevices, as well as locating the central valve to close it and avoid flooding if necessary. If you've managed to avoid this possibility, apply gentle heat or an insulation product to thaw the pipes.
Steps
Part 1 of 4: Locate the Frozen Tube
Step 1. Refine the search field
Open all the taps to see which ones work. If water flows from one but not the other, the problem is localized along the pipes between the two. Leave all the taps slightly open; a thin stream of running water from the working pipes prevents further freezing and allows the ice that has already formed to melt. Also open the blocked ones to reduce the pressure inside the pipes.
The taps are usually located on the outside walls, therefore in the front and back of the house
Step 2. Check the areas most prone to this problem
If a large area of your home is without water, inspect areas that are most accessible and where a pipe is most likely to have frozen before breaking through the walls. Please proceed by checking the items described below, unless you are able to narrow your search to a smaller part of the home:
- Pipes that are located in or near uninsulated cavities, attics or cellars;
- Pipes near cold air vents or cold concrete;
- External taps and valves;
- External ducts can freeze, but check them last, as most of them are designed to prevent them from filling with standing water.
Step 3. Look for possible cracks or leaks
Carefully examine the plumbing in the affected area. Frozen water can rupture conduits due to increased pressure, typically splitting them lengthwise or causing cracks near the joints.
- To inspect the back of pipes near walls and in other hard-to-reach areas, use a flashlight and a large mirror with a telescopic handle that you can buy at hardware stores.
- If you find a leak, immediately close the central valve. Call a plumber to change the hose or repair it yourself if you are able.
Step 4. Find the frozen area
Assuming there are no leaks or cracks, find the section of the conduit filled with solidified water using one of the following methods:
- Feel the temperature of the tube with your hand or use an infrared thermometer to locate areas that are much colder than others;
- Tap the duct with the handle of a screwdriver or other object in search of a duller, "fuller" sound;
- If you have ruled out all accessible plumbing in the affected area from the problem, move on to the next section to thaw the tubing inside the walls.
Part 2 of 4: Thaw the Water Pipes
Step 1. Leave the taps slightly open
Open the one connected to the frozen tube and the working ones that are nearby letting them drip. Running water is less likely to freeze than standing water. If it flows through or near the blocked area, it could contribute to melting the ice within an hour or two.
If you notice any cracks in the pipe, immediately close the main valve of the system and do the same with all the taps
Step 2. Use a hair dryer or heat gun
Turn on the appliance and direct the heat flow on the affected pipe, moving along its entire length. Keep the hair dryer moving and do not place it directly on the pipe, otherwise the sudden or badly distributed heat can cause it to break. If the pipes are made of metal, you can use the heat gun in the same way, which is more powerful.
- PVC pipes can be damaged even at temperatures of 60 ° C. Never use the heat gun or another direct heat source more intense than a hair dryer.
- External valves are often equipped with hydraulic hemp seals and other non-heat resistant materials; heat them slowly and carefully.
Step 3. Apply a heating cable
Purchase one at hardware store, wrap it in a single layer around the length of the frozen pipe, and plug it into the power outlet. The cable is made up of a series of heating elements that raise the temperature when they are turned on.
Do not overlap the cable; wrap it around the tube once or in a spiral pattern
Step 4. Heat the surrounding air
Place heaters, incandescent light bulbs without lampshades, or heating lamps in the room where the pipe is located, close to the duct but without touching it. In large rooms, use different heat sources to raise the pipe temperature safely and evenly.
Step 5. Pour some salt into the frozen drain
Salt lowers the melting point of ice, causing it to melt at lower temperatures; drop about 15g down the drain and give it time to work on the ice.
You can give it a try by dissolving the salt in 120ml of boiling water, but you risk bursting the pipe due to the sudden change in temperature
Step 6. Wrap the duct in warm towels
Put on rubber gloves and wet the towels in very hot water. Squeeze them and wrap them securely around the frozen section; replace them with new ones, wet and warm every 5-10 minutes, until the ice melts.
Do not leave cold and wet fabrics around the pipes
Part 3 of 4: Thaw the Tubes inside the Walls
Step 1. Direct the flow of an electric heater into an air vent
If you can locate an air vent, move the appliance closer to the opening so that it blows into it. Use a cardboard box or plastic sheet to minimize heat loss to the surrounding area.
Step 2. Turn on the heating
Set your house thermostat to 24-27 ° C and wait two to three hours.
Open the closet and wall unit doors to allow the warm air to get as close to the walls as possible
Step 3. Drill a hole in the wall
Unfortunately, this is often a necessary procedure to reach a frozen pipe and fix the situation before it explodes. Follow the instructions in the first part of the article to find the section that is most likely affected by the problem. Use a drywall hacksaw or some other suitable tool to drill the hole and then rely on the defrosting methods listed above.
If this is a recurring problem, consider installing a hatch over the hole rather than repairing the wall, so that you have easy access to the piping in the future
Part 4 of 4: Preventing Freezing
Step 1. Insulate pipes in cold areas by lining them with special foam, rags or other similar material
If there is an electrical outlet nearby, you can wrap them with a heating cable without inserting the plug, but which you can turn on when the cold months arrive.
Step 2. Protect the pipes from wind and cold air
Check gaps and exterior walls for holes and repair any crevices to minimize exposure to cold air. Use wind barriers or guards to cover external valves and taps.
Step 3. Warm up the area
During the winter, light a 60-watt incandescent light bulb near or just below the tube that had previously frozen; if you use this method to heat cavities or other areas that are not in full view, check that there are no flammable materials inside them.
Step 4. Run some running water from the tap
If the water flows into the pipes, they are much less likely to freeze, as it travels the length of the pipes before it has time to become ice. When temperatures drop below freezing, keep the taps slightly open so that a trickle of water comes out.
You can adjust the toilet flush float to keep the water moving even when the tank is full
Advice
If temperatures are expected to rise within a day, using bottled water for a while is less expensive than buying new equipment and the energy it takes to thaw the pipes
Warnings
- Don't break the wall unless you are certain of the location of the frozen pipe.
- Never pour a drain cleaner or other chemicals into the frozen pipe, as it may cause it to burst releasing too much gas or heat. You can use a small amount of hot water as a last resort, but even this remedy carries risks.
- Never use the blowtorch to heat a frozen pipe; you could destroy the conduit and start a fire.
- Always work in a dry environment when using electrical equipment.
