Getting dogs to mate isn't as simple as putting them together and waiting for it to happen. In fact, it is a time-consuming and costly task. You should only breed your dog if you believe it will improve the breed and if you are able to care for all puppies, even if you are unable to house them. So before breeding, make sure you have all the information you need to make your decisions responsibly.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Making sure your dog is suitable for breeding
Step 1. Wait until the dog reaches the appropriate age
Just like humans, dogs must reach sexual maturity before they can reproduce in a physiologically safe manner. This is especially important for the female, since her health could be compromised by a pregnancy if her body is not ready to carry it out.
The male must be at least 1.5 years old before they can reproduce. The female should be in her second or third oestrus cycle
Step 2. Do not breed female dogs too late
It can be dangerous for both mothers and puppies to get pregnant if they are too old. The same goes for younger dogs. However, there is no unanimous opinion among breeders about the right age. In general, it is best not to mate a female over 4 years of age, especially if she is from a large breed that has a shorter lifespan. If the size is medium or small, you should still think carefully about getting a female to mate at an advanced age. However, proceed with extreme caution if she is between 4 and 6 years old. At 7 she is definitely too old, even if she is small in size.
Step 3. Do some research on the genetic conditions affecting your dog's breed
Before you mate, be aware of the most important hereditary characteristics belonging to his breed. For example, the Border Collie, the Brie Sheepdog, the Shetland Sheepdog, and the Rough Collie (the longhaired Scottish Sheepdog) are all prone to hereditary eye problems. In the United States, the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists examines pets before mating. If it certifies that the dog is healthy, it can be listed by the "Canine Eye Registration Foundation".
- Regardless of how energetic and healthy the dog seems, every breed runs health risks of a genetic nature. For example, the Lhasa Apso can suffer from inguinal hernias and kidney disease, while the German Shepherd is genetically predisposed to develop hip dysplasia.
- Additionally, you should also inquire about the dog's precise ancestry. If he has any particular problems found by taking a medical history based on his lineage, you should not have him mate.
Step 4. Pay close attention to hip dysplasia in medium to large breeds
Although it mostly affects larger breeds, small breeds, such as the Cocker Spaniel, can also suffer from it. Some dogs may not show any symptoms of this condition, but they should not breed if they have such a problem.
- Hip dysplasia involves deterioration of the hip joint because the acetabular cavity into which the femur fits is too small. This condition can lead to arthritis, destroy cartilage and cause severe pain. Breeders must not compromise on this aspect.
- X-ray your dog. It can only be done once bone development is fully completed, i.e. after 2 years of age.
- It will be necessary to sedate the animal under general anesthesia, so that it does not move during the x-ray.
- The radiographs will then be checked by the veterinarian who will assign values in number corresponding to the health of the hips. The lower the number, the healthier the joint health. Therefore, mating should only be allowed to dogs with a low "score".
Step 5. Check for patella luxation in small breeds
This pathology affects the knees and causes the dog's patella to come out of its seat, locking the paw in a straight position. Small dogs are more prone to this problem than larger ones.
Diagnosis of this condition is simple and surgery can correct it. However, breeding a dog with patella luxation should be avoided, as this is a hereditary dysfunction
Step 6. Spay or castrate the dog if it fails the BAER test
It can be difficult to tell if a dog cannot hear or would prefer to ignore you. BAER (Brainstem Auditory Evoked Response: Acoustic Evocative Potentials of the Brain Stem) is an audiometric test that measures the actual electrical activity in the ears. If an animal does not pass this test, it is absolutely certain that it will pass on the genes of deafness to its descendants. Therefore, in these cases it is better to avoid mating.
Step 7. Have your dog checked for heart activity
Many breeds suffer from heart ailments. For example, the Boxer is at risk for subaortic stenosis, while the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is prone to mitral valve disease. The vet will likely have the dog undergo an ultrasound to rule out the danger of any problems. Any such warning sign should convince you not to mate it.
Step 8. Know if your dog has the right temperament to mate
For many rather popular breeds there are temperament evaluation tests, such as the WAC (Working Aptitude Evaluation) for the Doberman. You can also give him a more generic test, such as CGC (Canine Good Citizen), suitable for all dogs, to evaluate the dog's temperament and level of training. Certain training schools also have tests that evaluate the dog's temperament regardless of the training he has received.
- If your dog has temperament problems - for example, he is unreliable among people, too aggressive, excitable or bites out of fear - you must not allow him to mate. This is true even if he is extremely shy or submissive.
- On the other hand, if you have a happy, confident and obedient dog both when he is in the company of other animals and when he is with other people, there are no problems from this point of view.
Step 9. Get checked for brucellosis
Brucellosis is a bacterial infection that eventually leads to infertility in both sexes. It can also cause puppies to miscarry or die soon after birth.
- Brucellosis is often transmitted through sexual intercourse. However, it is possible for the infection to spread within an entire kennel through contact with secretions.
- Sometimes it can be transmitted to humans via the dog's urine or feces.
- Breeding dogs should be checked every 6 months. If the test is positive, they should be spayed / neutered or treated and used for breeding only after 3 consecutive negative tests.
- However, be aware that a male who has suffered from brucellosis may lose the ability to reproduce in the future, so the chance for him to mate successfully is reduced.
Step 10. Take the couple to the vet for a general health check
Make sure both your dog and his partner are in good health before mating them. Therefore, don't be afraid to ask the owner of the other dog for clinical documentation. A responsible breeder seeks to improve the breed, not to pass on genetic defects that are a health concern for the next generation. The mother-to-be must be physically healthy to withstand the stress and rigors of pregnancy. Signs of excellent health include:
- The female must be in ideal physical condition and have a suitable weight to reproduce. By touching her, you should feel her ribs, but not see them, and she should have a noticeable waistline. If he is overweight, there is a risk of complications during childbirth, while if he is underweight, he will have difficulty feeding the puppies.
- In general, the signs that indicate good health are: shiny coat, bright eyes, absence of bad odors emanating from the body, eyes, nose and ears free of secretions. You should be able to exercise without coughing and not have vomiting or diarrhea.
- Both dogs must have undergone the appropriate vaccinations.
- Keep in mind that the owner of the male is generally not charged at all and that he has the right to select puppies as a form of payment. The owner of the female pockets the sale of the remaining puppies, but pays all the veterinary expenses and those related to the center where the mating takes place.
Part 2 of 3: Making sure the female is ready to breed
Step 1. Wait until the female goes into heat or is in her estrus cycle
When the females reach sexual maturity, they begin to go into heat and are ready for mating. They go into heat approximately every 6 months. It is also called the "season of love" and lasts for about 21-35 days. Signs that he is in heat include:
- Curve the tail to the side while scratching the back (showing the vaginal opening).
- Twitching or swelling of the vulva.
- Blood secretions from the vagina. Be aware that the presence of such secretions in females who are not in heat should prompt you to consult your vet urgently, as it can indicate a womb infection, even a serious one.
Step 2. Watch for signs of ovulation
Just because the female is in heat doesn't mean she is physiologically and emotionally ready to mate. She is willing to accept intercourse and get pregnant more during ovulation. It is more likely to enter ovulatory period 7-10 days after the start of the estrus cycle, but each dog is unique. Some females ovulate as early as the 3rd or 4th day, while others as early as 27th. Mother Nature is intelligent, however, and the hormones that cause ovulation also increase sexual interest in males. Therefore, the best way to tell if a bitch is ovulating is to see how she interacts with her potential partner.
If the two dogs live close to each other, have the male see the female every 2-3 days. Be on the lookout for behavior that indicates openness to your partner's expressions of interest
Step 3. Perform a vaginal cytology exam
If they live far away, it is unreasonable to think that the male can travel every 2-3 days to assess the female's behavior in his presence. In this case, you can ask your vet to perform a vaginal cytology exam. First, with a cotton swab he will extract a sample from the mucous membrane of the vagina. Then, he will pass it on a microscope slide, dry it, and apply a liquid to examine the material under the microscope.
- The cells detached from the lining of the vagina vary according to the stage in which the dog's oestrus cycle is located.
- The cells that indicate estrus, or heat, are large, rectangular, without a nucleus and cell debris. When the number of red blood cells decreases, but these large anucleated cells are present, the female is more likely to be willing to mate.
- When "the time has passed", an increase in white blood cells begins to appear, as well as in nucleated cells and red blood cells.
Step 4. Ask your vet to do a blood test
Blood testing to determine if the female is ovulating is an alternative to vaginal cytology, and is also the preferred option for many breeders. It measures the levels of progesterone in the female's blood, looking for a significant increase which indicates that she is about to ovulate.
- Prior to ovulation, progesterone levels in the blood are generally below 2 ng (nanograms). They rise to 5 ng to promote ovulation and, after ovulation, they continue to rise and can reach 60 ng.
- To detect ovulation, blood tests may need to be repeated every two days. To catch the 5 ng warning sign, you should start testing before your expected ovulatory date.
Part 3 of 3: Breeding the Dogs
Step 1. Consider artificial insemination if dogs live far away
Artificial insemination is often used to help pass on the breed's best characteristics to puppies and eliminate unwanted ones. It is often used to preserve rare breeds and is a good alternative when the best male mating "party" lives far from the female. Therefore, the sperm is collected, checked by a veterinarian who verifies the activity and quantity of the spermatozoa, then stored. It can be refrigerated if insemination is to take place within a few hours or frozen in liquid nitrogen, in which case it can be stored for years. Then the female is fertilized approximately in the ovulatory period. The sperm is transferred to her reproductive tract via a long, soft rubber tube. The ideal would be to place the sperm near the cervix, which is where it would settle during a natural mating.
- You can purchase an artificial insemination kit online or at pet stores.
- Keep in mind that artificial insemination has not yet reached the same level of success as natural reproduction. Expect a success rate of around 65-85%, with better results if there are fewer litters.
Step 2. Shave the hair under the female's tail
If the latter belongs to a longhaired breed, there is a possibility the fur will interfere during mating. To avoid this risk and prevent wasting time during the ovulatory period, consider shaving the hair under the tail to increase the chances of success.
Step 3. Bring the female to the male
By removing the male from the environment he is used to, there is a risk that he will become insecure and distracted. It may be difficult for him to properly fertilize the female. To avoid this problem, set up a comfortable area for mating. It could be a private, gated space in the house, preferably outdoors, where the couple can walk around without distractions.
Normally only two people should be present, preferably the owners of the two animals. Don't bring strangers who might distract the dogs
Step 4. Get them to know each other
Mating doesn't have to be a rushed process. It is necessary that the two partners know each other. They will likely need several hours or days to get comfortable in each other's company. The duration may vary based on the dog's previous mating experiences, his mood and timing coordination during attempts to reproduce. You may find that dogs get along well, but "as friends". In this case, it is likely that the female is either not in her ovulatory period or is not emotionally ready to mate.
- The latter eventuality can occur when dogs are particularly attached to their owners and see themselves more as people than as animals. In this case, don't force them, otherwise it would be almost violence.
- Accept that the female is emotionally unwilling to mate. If, despite her sympathy for the male, nothing happens, then don't change the situation.
Step 5. Check them constantly
Dogs should never be left alone, even if the process takes a long time. The most important thing when dogs breed is to ensure their safety at all times. Keep them on a leash and put a muzzle on the female, especially if she is a virgin. She may lash out at the male if she feels uncomfortable.
- Talk to dogs in an encouraging and sweet voice to help them feel confident and comfortable.
- Never yell at them if you feel frustrated or annoyed by the failed attempts.
Step 6. Be aware of signs of interest on both sides
An interested male sniffs the female's rear, while an interested female raises her tail for easier access. The male can also lick the vulva and try to mount it if it seems willing and ready.
Step 7. Adjust the position of the female if she never stands still
She may get too excited or distracted when the male shows her interest. To keep her still, bend your arm and wedge her head into the curve, holding her upright with your hands. You can move her until she is facing the male.
The other person present may move their tail from the vulva
Step 8. Allow the male to penetrate the female from behind
Once penetration has taken place, a part of the penis, called the "glans bulb", swells. Thanks to the increased size, the penis will find a welcome inside the vagina. Meanwhile, the strong sphincter muscles near the vaginal opening begin to contract around the swollen penis, stopping it further inside the vagina.
Step 9. Don't be alarmed if dogs get "stuck"
It happens when they turn in opposite directions during mating. The male brings his forelegs to the side of the female, passing one hind leg over her back, until they are both with the hindquarters attached. At this point they are "stuck" thanks to the ability of the penis to remain inserted in the vagina.
- This behavior is perfectly natural during mating. Dogs can get stuck for a long time, averaging 15 to 45 minutes for most breeds.
- Mating lasts at least 20 minutes. According to one theory, the joint protects dogs from possible attacks during this moment of enormous vulnerability. During the mating, the male cannot see what is happening behind him and, moreover, he has his genitals exposed. When, on the other hand, the face and jaws of both are turned outwards, they represent a formidable defense against probable predators or other dogs attempting to mate with the female.
Step 10. Encourage the female if she moans while interlocking
The female may express some discomfort during this phase, so she needs more comfort and control. It is very dangerous if they try to separate before they are physically able to do so, so comfort the female to keep them from falling apart.
Once the male has ejaculated, the turgor of the penis is reduced and the muscles of the vagina relax. After that the dogs are able to separate safely
Step 11. Deal with them immediately after mating
Once the penile turgor has shrunk and the female's sphincter muscles have relaxed, the couple separates. It is best not to allow the female to urinate for about 15 minutes after mating. The owner of the male should follow him until the erection subsides and the penis is no longer visible.
Step 12. Repeat pairing
Two days after the first time, you should try to get them to mate again. In doing so, you will increase the chances that the male will successfully fertilize his partner. It is important to repeat mating especially if you are unsure if the female is in her ovulatory period.
